Harvesting Your Baby Monstera Plant: Optimal Timing and Expert Techniques

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Robby

Monstera deliciosa is commonly referred to as Swiss cheese plant, Mexican breadfruit, and hurricane plant. It grows as an understory plant in its native Central America and became a popular houseplant in the United States in the 1950s thanks to the plants large, tropical foliage and ease of care.

Today, M. deliciosa is typically available wherever tropical houseplants are sold. Most varieties feature solid green leaves while the variegated forms are usually rarer.

In nature, the M. deliciosa is a vining plant, attaching to tree links and trunks with its aerial roots. A mature plant may reach more than 50 feet long and may be considered invasive in its native habitat.

M. deliciosa has distinctive leaves that are glossy green, heart-shaped, perforated, and deeply lobed and can reach up to several feet in width. Younger plants will lack perforations and deep lobes. M. deliciosa may be mistaken with the plant Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (both were formerly in the genus Philodendron) and incorrectly called “split-leaf philodendron. ” To help tell them apart, remember M. deliciosas nickname: the Swiss cheese plant. Mature M. deliciosa plants have small holes in their leaves much like Swiss cheese whereas T. bipinnatifidum only has deep cuts.

Much like a peace lily or jack-in-the-pulpit (both belong to the same family as M. deliciosa: Araceae), M. deliciosa has a flower that consists of a white spike (spadix) and a sheath (spathe). As the sheath dies back, the spike transforms into a fruit. The fruit is ripe when the scales on the outside of the fruit start separating, showing the yellow-white flesh.

M. deliciosa do not form flowers or fruit as houseplants. While our homes may reach appropriate air temperatures, our indoor environments lack adequate humidity.

The iconic split leaves of the monstera deliciosa also known as the Swiss cheese plant have made it an increasingly popular houseplant. And why not? This tropical vine is easy to grow, tolerates neglect, and adds a touch of the exotic to any space. If you’re lucky enough to have a baby monstera plant, you may be wondering when and how to harvest it. Read on for tips on identifying maturity, timing the harvest, and techniques for optimal yields.

When is a Baby Monstera Ready for Harvesting?

Patience is key when growing monsteras It takes 3-5 years for a baby monstera grown from seed or cuttings to reach maturity and produce harvestable fruit Here are signs your plant is ready

  • The vine has reached 10 feet or more in length.

  • The leaves have reached their mature size of 12 inches or larger and have distinct holes.

  • Aerial roots are growing from the main stem

  • The plant is climbing a support or putting out growth from the main stem tip.

  • Flower spikes have emerged near the leaf nodes.

Once flowers appear, fruits will develop in 6-8 weeks if pollinated. Resist sampling until the fruits fill out. Ripe monstera fruit will detach easily from the spike when gently pulled.

What is the Best Time to Harvest Monstera Fruit?

Monsteras grown as houseplants can produce fruit year-round, unlike outdoor plants that fruit seasonally. However, the optimal time for harvest is when the fruits reach full size and coloration.

The monstera fruit ripening process goes through distinct color changes:

  • Unripe fruit is green with whitish scales.
  • As it ripens, the green skin darkens to a rich green.
  • Ripe fruit turns a bright yellow or orange with brown scales.

For best flavor and nutrition, wait until the monstera fruits are brightly colored before harvesting. The fruit can be eaten at the earlier stages but won’t be as sweet.

How to Harvest Monstera Fruit for Maximum Yields

Follow these simple steps for successfully harvesting your monstera:

  • Use clean, sharp pruning shears to carefully cut the fruit from the stem once the color indicates ripeness. Take care not to damage the plant.

  • Handle the fruits gently to avoid bruising. Monstera fruit is delicate.

  • Place freshly picked fruit loose in a paper bag or bamboo basket. Don’t pile up the fruits or they’ll get damaged.

  • Set ripening fruit in a bright spot out of direct sun at 65-75°F to enhance sweetness.

  • Eat the ripe fruit within 2-3 days for best flavor. Refrigerate if you can’t eat them all fresh. The fruits will last 5-7 days properly stored.

  • Leave some ripe fruit on the plant for the seeds if you wish to propagate new baby monstera plants.

  • Prune back the flower spike once harvesting is complete to encourage new growth.

Tips for Getting the Most Out of Your Monstera

  • Add a moss pole or other support early on so the vine can climb vertically. This saves space and improves fruiting.

  • Pinch off lower leaves as the plant grows to expose the stem and encourage fruiting. Don’t remove more than 1/3 of leaves at once.

  • Mist the plant daily and wipe leaves to increase humidity and prevent pests/disease. Monsteras thrive in 40-50% humidity.

  • Rotate the pot periodically to ensure even growth on all sides.

  • Repot annually in spring using an orchid potting mix amended with perlite for drainage.

  • Apply balanced liquid fertilizer monthly in spring and summer when actively growing.

Enjoying the Fruit of Your Labor

Caring for a baby monstera plant takes time and patience, but the reward of harvesting those crazy cool fruits makes it all worthwhile! Follow these tips for knowing when to harvest your monstera fruits and how to pick them properly. With the right techniques, you’ll be enjoying fresh, delicious fruit for years to come.

Frequency of Entities:

Monstera: 21
Fruit: 16
Harvest: 7
Plant: 5
Leaves: 4
Ripe: 5
Timing: 2
Techniques: 2

harvesting baby monstera plant timing and techniques

Propagation Monstera propagation map

Monstera deliciosa can easily be propagated from stem cuttings, air layering or division as long as each division includes a node (the point where a leaf develops on a stem). Cuttings that lack a node and axillary bud, such as the leaves, will not produce new growth and ultimately will rot.

The leaves and petioles of M. deliciosa will not grow on their own because new growth comes from axillary buds and nodes on the stem.

Cuttings may be taken at any time of year. We recommend supplemental lighting in the early morning or late afternoon for 2 to 3 hours and misting your plant every 2 to 3 days.

Propagation by stem cuttings

Follow these steps to ensure your Monstera deliciosa stem cutting roots successfully.

  • Find a node with an axillary bud (refer to the Monstera propagation map). Multiple leaves on your cutting promote better rooting through photosynthesis.
  • Cut 1 to 2 inches below the node, along the internode. If using auxin, rub along the cutting’s node.
  • Moisten the rooting medium.
  • Make a hole in the medium and insert your cutting.
  • Keep cuttings moist.
  • Check for root development by lifting your cutting carefully using a popsicle stick, plant transplant or small spatula.
    • If roots are few or haven’t yet developed, put your cutting back into the medium.
    • If roots have developed, you can transplant your cutting.
  • Transplant your cutting into a new container filled with moist potting soil. Leave about 2 inches of media between your cutting and your container.

M. deliciosa can be propagated in a variety of media. The main purpose of rooting media is to maintain moisture and to support the cutting and its root development. It must also drain well to prevent the cuttings from rotting.

  • Perlite: Provides support for the new plants, and oxygen and moisture to roots. Perlite is the most common medium used for Monstera deliciosa cuttings.
  • Potting soil: This media can be purchased in garden centers, hardware stores and online. It provides support for new roots and good drainage.
    • Potting soil should be kept moist to prevent the cuttings from drying out.
    • Excessively wet, cool soil can cause damping off disease.
  • Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate (LECA): Because of its excellent drainage, LECA can be watered more frequently without increasing the potential for damping off disease.
    • LECA can be purchased online and at stores that specialize in propagation and hydroponics. It may be more expensive than other media, but can be reused.
  • Water: Monstera cuttings can be rooted in plain water.
    • Pros: In water, you can observe root growth, the plants are also easy to care for and they don’t require much space. The water should be changed when it becomes cloudy.
    • Cons: Plant roots grown in water are weaker than those grown in solid rooting media. Woody plants such as citrus and hibiscus tend to rot when rooted in water.

Auxin is a plant hormone and a common plant growth regulator (PGR) that stimulates rooting, shooting, and blooming when propagating plants. Although auxin is found naturally within plants, applying auxin to a plant cutting can encourage cell division and improve the plant’s ability to develop longer root cells. Rooting hormone is available in powder, liquid and gel formats and can be purchased at garden centers and online.

Although M. deliciosa may root without additional hormones, auxin can promote faster rooting and dense root growth. Apply rooting hormone powder to the node before placing the cutting in the rooting medium. Auxin may also be added directly to water to encourage new rooting.

Containers of various materials and sizes can be used for growing plants: ceramic, plastic or resin pots, plastic food containers — there are few limits to what you can use.

Avoid containers that have been used for storing chemicals. Examples include pesticide containers, buckets used for asphalt sealant, and gasoline and oil cans.

When choosing a container for your cuttings, consider the size of your cutting, support and drainage.

  • Monstera cuttings are top heavy, so select a heavier container to prevent tipping over. Containers might be made of terracotta, glazed ceramic or resin.
    • Containers should be at least 4 inches in diameter and 5 inches deep. A one-quart nursery pot is also a good choice.
    • Avoid containers that are too large as it is harder to gauge the moisture level of the media, which can lead to over or under watering.
    • As a plant grows, transplant it into a slightly larger container.
  • Provide support for your cutting until roots are formed.
    • Stake your cutting by tying it to a bamboo stake with a piece of nylon stocking of cotton rag.
    • When your cutting is successfully rooted and transplanted into a longer-term container, you can buy or build trellising to support and encourage your Monstera plant to climb.
  • It is important to grow your cuttings in containers with good drainage.
    • Your container should have at least one hole about the diameter of a pencil.
    • Poor drainage and too much moisture can cause new roots on your cutting to rot.

How to set up your Monstera for success

FAQ

Do monsteras propagate better in water or soil?

As your deliciosa (or any other variant) needs to adjust to soil, new leaf growth may take time. Monstera can grow in water, but it won’t reach its full potential. For the best results, transfer it to well-draining potting soil like Rosy.

How long does it take for a baby monstera to grow?

This easy-to-grow climbing evergreen provides a dramatic focal point due to its size and unique shape. Monstera deliciosa has glossy, heart-shaped split leaves and is relatively easy to care for. It is a fast grower, about 1 to 2 feet a year, and takes about three years to reach full-grown maturity.

What to do with baby monstera?

Place your Baby Monstera in bright, indirect sunlight, ideally in a humid environment. If you place it in a drier environment, a regular misting is required. Once the top layer of soil is dry to touch, it’s time to rewater. If you do overwater this variety, it will let you know when its leaves begin to brown.

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