It is not exactly unusual to have ants, or even an ants’ nest, in your yard.
That said, there are some legitimate reasons to eradicate an ants’ nest, particularly if you have a problem with aphids or similar pests.
Dealing with ants on houseplants can be frustrating Artillery plants are especially prone to ant infestations due to the sweet honeydew produced by aphids on these plants. If left unchecked, ants can damage your artillery plant and hinder its growth.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk through the best methods for getting rid of ants on your artillery plant for good
Identify the Ant Problem
The first step is confirming that ants are indeed the issue Carefully inspect the artillery plant, looking for ants crawling on the leaves, stem, or soil Also check for aphids, which attract ants with their honeydew secretions.
Knowing the type of ants can also help. Small black ants are likely Argentine ants, while larger black ants may be carpenter ants. Red ants are usually fire ants. Identifying the species determines if they pose a real threat worth eliminating.
Remove Aphids to Deter Ants
Since aphids attract ants, the best way to discourage ants is controlling the aphid population. Here are organic methods to get rid of aphids on artillery plants:
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Prune heavily infested stems and leaves.
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Use a strong stream of water to wash off aphids.
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Apply neem oil spray to kill aphids safely.
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Introduce ladybugs or other beneficial insects that prey on aphids.
With fewer aphids secreting honeydew, the artillery plant becomes less attractive to ants seeking sugary food.
Create Barriers to Block Ant Access
Once aphids are controlled, barriers can help prevent ants from reaching the plant. Effective options include:
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Ant moats/barriers around the pot to block climbing.
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Double-sided tape wrapped around the pot or container.
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Sprinkling cinnamon powder at soil level since ants dislike the scent.
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Drenching the soil with coffee grounds, which deters ants.
Barriers force ants to find alternate trails and routes to food sources.
Use Natural Ant Repellents
For artillery plants, natural ant repellents are the safest options. Some homemade repellents to try:
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Peppermint oil sprayed around the plant.
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Equal vinegar and water solution sprayed on ant trails.
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Citrus peels placed around the pot rim.
These DIY repellents use ingredients likely in your pantry to deter ants without harming your plant. Reapply after rain or irrigation.
Practice Good Sanitation
Making the artillery plant environment less hospitable for ants is key for prevention. Useful tips include:
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Regularly inspecting for pests or ants.
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Removing fallen leaves or debris ants can hide under.
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Avoiding overwatering, which promotes pest issues.
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Disinfecting garden tools and gloves to avoid spreading ants.
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Clearing away weed overgrowth around pots.
Keeping artillery plants and the surrounding area clean denies ants food and shelter.
Consider Professional Help for Severe Infestations
For serious ant infestations, professional pest control may be warranted. Experts can prescribe targeted solutions to safely eliminate ants while monitoring for potential plant damage.
But avoid excessive use of harsh chemicals, as residue could burn the artillery plant’s foliage. Always test products on a small leaf section first.
Monitor Closely After Treatment
Keep checking the artillery plant daily for a week after ant treatment. Look for lingering ants under leaves or new trails in the soil. Immediately address any survivors before colonies rebuild.
Be prepared to reapply natural repellents or barriers if ants persist. Consistency is vital in keeping artillery plants ant-free.
Prevention is Ideal
While occasional ant invasions happen, avoiding infestations altogether is best. Here are useful artillery plant care tips for prevention:
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Situate pots away from ant nests or trails.
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Allow potting mix to dry adequately between waterings.
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Apply slow-release systemic granules to deter pests.
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Quarantine new plants to ensure they are pest-free.
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Shield artillery plants from aphid-attracting honeydew from overhead trees.
With vigilance and preventive care, artillery plants can thrive ant-free and healthy for years.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get rid of ants in potted plants?
For potted plants, create a moat by placing the pot in a larger container filled with water to force ants to drown or flee. Natural repellents like diatomaceous earth sprinkled on soil or vinegar sprayed on ant trails also deter ants in pots.
What home remedy kills ants instantly?
Borax mixed with sugar (1:3 ratio) is an instant ant killer. Ants ingest the mixture as food, bring it back to the colony, and the borax poison spreads to kill all within 72 hours. Baking soda and powdered sugar (1:1 ratio) also works well.
What scent do ants hate?
Ants detest the strong scent of essential oils like peppermint, citrus, eucalyptus, tea tree, and lemongrass. Dilute a few drops of these oils in water and spray around ant entry points. Vinegar, garlic, and cinnamon also repel ants.
Does cinnamon really keep ants away?
Yes, cinnamon repels ants effectively. Ants dislike the smell and will avoid areas dusted with cinnamon powder. Make a barrier by sprinkling cinnamon around pot rims, window sills, or other access points. Reapply cinnamon after watering or rainfall.
What home remedy will kill carpenter ants?
Boric acid powder or gel baits are effective carpenter ant killers. Place them along baseboards, in wall voids, or near ant trails. The ants ingest the product and carry it back to destroy the rest of the colony. Diatomaceous earth scattered in nesting areas also kills them by dehydration.
Eliminating ants from artillery plants takes diligence, but is completely doable with consistent monitoring and prevention. The organic remedies in this guide allow you to get rid of ants safely without chemicals. With a proactive pest management routine, you can help your artillery plant thrive ant-free and healthy.
Boric Acid & Sugar
This is the original ‘bait station’ technique that has been used by farmers and country gardeners for generations.
Do not use this method in conjunction with any other.
Make a mixture of sugar (preferably icing sugar) and boric acid powder in a ratio of 8 parts sugar to 1 part boric acid.
Mix this in bottled water so as to form a gooey liquid with the consistency of treacle or honey.
Do not use tap water as impurities in it could put off the ants from consuming the bait – or the minerals or ions in tap water could react with the boric acid and neutralise its potency.
Drop and spread this thick gooey concoction on and around the ants’ nest, particularly at the holes. Keep doing so every couple of days.
Worker ants will take this toxic mix into the nest for the queen and the rest of the colony.
When To Get Rid Of An Ants’ Nest
So why, under what circumstances, would it be the right decision to get rid of an ants’ nest?
First – are the ants ruining your landscaping and depositing piles of soil on the lawn? Is the ants’ nest tucked away by the fence or is it an eyesore? Is it getting bigger and bigger?
If the answers are ‘Yes,’ the affirmatives answer the bigger question too.
Second – if the ants’ nest is near shrubs and plants that have delicate roots or those that are wilting without any discernible reason, then the ants’ nest may have to go.
Though subsoil ant activity is a good thing in general, when it is below or beside delicate roots, it can disturb them and affect their uptake of soil nutrients.
Third – does your garden have an aphid problem that you can’t get under control? Or a mealybug or whitefly problem? If yes, then you may need to get rid of the ants’ nest.
That’s because ants and aphids often work together; they have a symbiotic relationship.
Just as supply ships victual the Navy while being protected by destroyers, so do aphids provide food to ants, and in turn are protected by them.
The same goes for mealybugs and whiteflies.
Concisely, aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies as honeydew-producing garden pests are of value to ants because these pests provide sustenance to ants: ants gather the honeydew that these pests secrete and take it to their nest, mainly for the queen but also for the colony.
This means that if you release ladybirds or lacewings to destroy aphids, mealybugs or whiteflies, your efforts may come to naught because the ants will protect the garden pests (as they are well known to do).
If you make the decision to destroy an ants’ nest, be aware that its actual size underground will be far larger, probably some multiple, of the size you may estimate by what is visible on the surface.