Salvia is an herbaceous perennial that is commonly seen in wildflower gardens, landscapes, and even patio planters. They bloom prolifically all season long, attracting loads of beneficial insects and pollinators.
Salvia is a very tough plant, able to withstand the hottest and driest climates. They can thrive in tough soil conditions while also being resistant to pesky critters such as deer and rabbits. These low maintenance plants are very easy-going, but that doesn’t mean they are invincible.
There are some common problems you might see with your Salvia plants. From overwatering to underwatering, pesky insect attacks, and transplant shock – there are a few problems you could run into when growing Salvia. It is important to identify which problem you are dealing with first then take the steps to eradicate it. Let’s talk about a few issues you might run into when growing Salvia.
Salvia usually begins blooming in late spring, and will bloom right into the fall months. Plants that aren’t flowering are usually a sign they are not getting enough sun. Be sure to plant in a location that receives full sun (6-8 hours daily). They require this amount of sun to flower consistently.
Deadheading can also encourage new blooms to sprout. Removing the old spent flowers will keep your plant looking tidy, but it will also encourage the plant to grow.
Plants bloom when they are mature. Therefore, if you have a fairly young plant, it might just not be ready to bloom yet. Most varieties are first-year bloomers, but if you have purchased a young plant and recently transplanted it, it might just take some time before it flowers.
Powdery mildew is a common problem with herbaceous perennials, especially in the rainier months or in very humid climates. When leaves of plants stay too wet for long periods of time and don’t have the chance to dry out, powdery mildew occurs.
This grayish powdery substance is found on the tops of leaves and can spread to other leaves and even your other plants. There are some home remedies to eradicate powdery mildew, but a fungicide application might be necessary if the mildew is pretty far along.
A closely related fungus called downy mildew can also cause leaves to appear white and powdery. Downy mildew is caused by the same conditions but will be seen on the bottom sides of leaves – hence the name. Similar treatments will eradicate downy mildew as they will powdery mildew.
It is important to treat downy or powdery mildew as soon as you can. This fungus born disease will cause your plants to be unhappy, and can even spread to other nearby plants. Allow your plant’s leaves to dry out if possible, and aim at the roots when watering.
Heat stress often causes leaves to become wilty. Overwatering can also cause plants to become wilty. It is tempting to water your plants more if heat seems like the leading cause.
Resist the urge! Watering once a day, preferably in the morning, is usually plenty of water even for the hottest days. Some plants might not even need everyday waterings, adjust your watering schedule based on your climate and observations.
Dry plants can also cause wilty leaves although Salvia does not tend to react as much as some other plants. In the warmer months, it may wilt when the soil has become too dry. This is a sign that you should increase your watering frequency.
Salvia leaves and stems can become leggy for a few reasons. Plants can become leggy due to an inconsistent watering routine. Be sure to water your plants regularly and stick to a consistent schedule. Although Salvia is pretty drought tolerant, this doesn’t mean you should actively avoid watering your plant for periods of time.
The most common reason plants become leggy is lack of sunlight. Salvia grows best in areas that receive full sun. If planted in a location that is under partial shade, the stems and leaves will grow leggy trying to reach for more sunlight.
Transplant your leggy plants to an area that will receive more sun. It may take a few weeks for them to adjust to the new location, but the new growth won’t appear as leggy or stretched out.
As an avid gardener, I’m always looking out for ways to keep my plants happy and healthy. One issue I’ve had to deal with is bacterial leaf spot on my autumn sage. This fungal disease causes brown spots to develop on the leaves, eventually leading to defoliation if left unchecked. If you’ve noticed those telltale spots on your sage, don’t fret! Here I’ll share my proven methods for treating and preventing bacterial leaf spot on autumn sage.
Identifying Bacterial Leaf Spot
The first step is recognizing bacterial leaf spot’s symptoms. Keep an eye out for:
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Small, circular brown spots on leaves surrounded by a yellowish halo. Spots may merge together as they grow.
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Spot centers that become brittle and crack compared to surrounding leaf tissue,
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Defoliation as heavily infected leaves drop prematurely.
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Lesions that are more numerous on upper leaves exposed to moisture.
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White fungal spore masses in the centers of older spots in humid conditions.
Catching bacterial leaf spot early allows for quicker treatment before major damage occurs Inspect plants after wet weather and be on the lookout for spotting
Where Does Bacterial Leaf Spot Come From?
Bacterial leaf spot is caused by the fungus Pseudomonas cichorii. Spores of this pathogen thrive in wet, humid conditions. It spreads easily via wind, water, and contact between plants. Overhead irrigation and rainy weather provide optimal conditions for bacterial leaf spot to take hold and multiply.
While autumn sage is quite susceptible, other sages along with plants in the mint family can also become infected. Good cultural practices are key to avoiding outbreaks.
Effective Treatment Options
If bacterial leaf spot is detected, taking prompt action is crucial. Here are effective treatment methods I recommend:
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Prune away and destroy any severely infected leaves and stems Sterilize tools before and after pruning This removes sources of further contamination.
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Improve air circulation around plants to allow leaves to dry faster after watering or rain. Thin overcrowded plantings.
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Apply copper-based bactericide sprays as a treatment option. Spray every 7-14 days until disease is under control. Always follow label instructions carefully.
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Consider treatment with biofungicides containing Bacillus subtilis. These beneficial bacteria inhibit growth of pathogens like Pseudomonas.
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Remove any diseased debris around plants to eliminate inoculum that can reinfest sage.
With persistent, multi-pronged treatment, bacterial leaf spot can be successfully eradicated.
Preventing Recurrence of Bacterial Leaf Spot
Prevention is the best medicine when it comes to plant diseases. Here are organic, cultural methods to avoid repeated battles with bacterial leaf spot:
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Water wisely. Water at the base of plants in the early morning hours to allow leaves time to dry out before nightfall. Avoid overhead watering.
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Space plants properly to encourage good air flow. Crowding creates the moist environment this fungus loves.
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Apply mulch around autumn sage. This minimizes splashback of spores from soil onto lower foliage during watering or rain.
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Disinfect tools and garden equipment between uses on different plants. Remember, bacterial leaf spot spreads through contact.
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Scout regularly for early symptoms and remove any infected plants promptly. This keeps pathogens from spreading.
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Prune away older, lower leaves susceptible to splashback infection. However, avoid excess pruning that stresses plants.
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Grow autumn sage in full sun for optimal air circulation and lower humidity levels around foliage.
By diligently following these preventive steps, you can help keep your autumn sage free of bacterial leaf spot in the future.
Creating Optimal Growing Conditions
The better care you provide your autumn sage overall, the less susceptible it will be to threats like bacterial leaf spot. Here are tips for growing vigorous, healthy sage plants:
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Select a site with full sun and excellent drainage. This promotes strong growth.
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Prepare soil well with ample organic matter. Sage thrives in slightly alkaline soil.
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Water thoroughly only when the top few inches of soil become dry. Allow soil to dry between waterings.
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Feed plants monthly through the growing season with a balanced fertilizer. But avoid over-fertilizing, which stresses plants.
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Prune lightly in spring to shape plants. Remove dead growth and any branches touching the ground.
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Monitor for pests like spider mites that can weaken plants and create entry points for disease.
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Protect roots in winter with mulch in cold climates. Avoid fertilizing late in the season to harden off plants.
Robust autumn sage plants better withstand and outgrow minor bacterial leaf spot infections. Focus on providing ideal growing conditions for your sage.
Enjoy Your Healthy, Thriving Autumn Sage
Don’t let bacterial leaf spot spoil the pleasure of growing autumn sage. With quick identification, prompt treatment, and smart preventive care, you can control outbreaks of this fungal disease. Put these tips to work in your garden and enjoy the vibrant beauty of your flourishing sage plants. With some persistence and TLC, your autumn sage will continue gracing your landscape with its spectacular late season blooms.
Not Coming Back After Winter
Salvia is perennial in zones 4-10 depending on the variety. If you are planting in one of these zones and are having trouble getting your Salvia plant to overwinter, it could be because of a few things.
Some varieties are hardier than others. Note the zone on the specific variety that you purchased or grew from seed. Most varieties are hardy in many zones, but there are a few that vary.
Planting in spring is usually ideal as this will give your plant enough time to get established before winter. The cool temperatures of spring allow the roots and plant time to adjust to being in the ground. Fall planting is possible too, just be sure to really stay consistent on watering to let the roots get established.
Planting in the correct location can be a key factor in winter survival. Giving your plant the correct amount of sunlight and soil conditions will help the plant to establish new roots and get adapted to its new area. Well adapted plants will not be as susceptible to winter damage.
Plants should be acclimated to the climate before planting. If they were grown in a greenhouse and not hardened off accordingly, transplanting can shock the root system. While they usually bounce back from transplant shock, this can sometimes affect their ability to withstand the harsh winter months.
Floppy Plants And/Or Stems
The main reason for Salvia plants flopping is too much rain, or not enough sunlight. The constant fall of rain can cause the plant to become water-logged. Water-logged plants are a sign that the root system has been compacted and does not have access to enough oxygen.
The weight of the water can also cause the leaves and stems to fall over. Allow your plants a break from watering if this occurs, stake or cage your plants if extra support is necessary to get them back on the right track.
Yellowing of leaves can be caused by overwatering, oh and also by not watering enough. So how can you tell which one is the culprit? When a plant is overwatered, the bottom leaves will turn yellow, and the new growth will become limp and possibly fall off.
A plant that is under-watered will often become wilted and all leaves will turn yellow or even brown. The easiest way to tell is by feeling your soil.
If you suspect you have overwatered your plants in the ground, give them a break from watering. When salvia still seems waterlogged, you might need to amend the soil with an organic matter such as compost to help the roots get some oxygen.
If you have underwatered your plants, give them a good soak right away. Then just continue to water normal, perhaps increase frequency depending on your soil and climate.
How to Prune Salvia to Get Continuous Blooms!! Learned this by Accident! My Selective Pruning Method
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