Cuphea llavea is one of about 260 species of Cupheas in the loosestrife family (Lythraceae). This fast growing tender broadleaf evergreen sub-shrub native to Mexico is sold as an annual or houseplant in cooler climates, sometimes under the synonym C. blepharophylla. It is often a conversation plant due to its unique flower shape. 
The common name bat-faced cuphea comes from the resemblance of the ends of the flower to a tiny bat face but it may also be called red cuphea or just cuphea (along with several other species; orange bat-faced cuphea is a different species, C. oreophila.) 
Plants can grow up to 2½ feet tall, but when grown as seasonal annuals generally only become 12-18 inches tall with an equal spread. They have a rounded, bushy habit and the foliage remains fresh all season if watered sufficiently. The stems are crowded with alternate dark green, thick, sandpapery leaves up to 3” long. Each ovate leaf is pointed and hairy. The foliage can tolerate light frost but not a hard freeze. 
Bat-faced cuphea begins blooming in late spring and continues until frost, producing clusters of numerous flowers in the leaf axils. Each flower has a one inch long, hairy purple calyx with two upward facing red petals at the end, forming the “ears” to go with the “bat face”. The remaining four petals are just little spiny remnants in the species but in some cultivars these are fully developed. Flowers are attractive to hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. The small, brown lentil-shaped seeds are found at the base of spent flowers that remain on the plant. 
There are a number of cultivars available which vary from the species including:
Plant bat-faced cuphea in annual beds, along the edges of borders or paths, or in containers – including hanging baskets – where its unique flowers can be appreciated up close. Combine bat-faced cuphea with plants with purple foliage or bright purple flowers to complement the dark “faces” of the flowers or red flowers, such as bright red impatiens, to coordinate with the “ears”. Use it alone or mixed with other plants such as coleus and ‘Blackie’ sweet potato vine in containers. Container-grown plants can be moved indoors to overwinter in a bright, sunny location with at least four hours of direct sun. Reduce watering and keep relatively cool (in the 60°F’s). 
Grow bat-faced cuphea in full sun in the ground or in containers. Provide regular moisture, although plants will tolerate dry conditions occasionally. Fertilize plants in containers several times during the summer months. Pinch back or shear if plants become too leggy later in the growing season. This low maintenance plant has few insect or disease problems but may be infested with whiteflies, mealybugs or aphids. C. llavea is propagated from seed, short softwood cuttings taken in late spring, or large plants can be divided. Start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before the average last date of frost. The seeds need light to germinate so just press into the soil surface or barely cover. Seeds should germinate in 8-10 days if maintained at 70°F.
Bat faced cuphea (Cuphea llavea) is a uniquely beautiful flowering plant, recognizable by its purple and white flowers resembling an open bat mouth. Unfortunately, these showy plants are susceptible to beetle infestations that can quickly damage their health and appearance. If your precious bat faced cuphea has fallen victim to a beetle invasion, don’t lose hope. With persistence and the right techniques, you can banish these pests and restore your plant’s vigor.
Identifying the Culprits
The first step is determining which type of beetles have infested your plant Common cuphea beetle pests include
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Flea beetles – Tiny, jumping beetles that chew small holes in leaves. Look for shot hole damage.
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Cucumber beetles – Feed on leaves and flowers causing skeletonized areas. Adults are greenish-yellow with black spots or stripes.
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Japanese beetles – Metallic green and bronze beetles that skeletonize leaves between veins
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Root beetles – Larvae feed on roots damaging the plant’s ability to uptake water and nutrients.
Correct identification allows you to tailor control methods to target the specific beetle’s weaknesses. Check undersides of leaves and examine your plant closely to spot the offenders.
Organic and Natural Controls
For mild infestations, organic and natural methods can eliminate beetles without chemicals:
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Hand picking – Inspect plants daily and pick off any beetles, dropping them into soapy water. Be thorough – check under leaves.
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Neem oil – This organic insecticide deters beetles when sprayed on plants. Mix with water per label instructions.
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Diatomaceous earth – Sprinkle this chalky powdered fossil around plants to irritate and dehydrate crawling beetles. Reapply after rain.
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Beneficial insects – Ladybugs, lacewings, and other beneficial predators feed on beetle larvae and eggs. Attract them to your garden with flowering plants.
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Row covers – Floating row covers can exclude adult beetles, preventing them from reaching your plants. Use insect netting with a tight weave.
Chemical Controls for Severe Infestations
For heavy beetle damage, you may need to use chemical pesticides as a last resort:
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Insecticidal soaps – Potassium salts of fatty acids kill beetles on contact. Spray early morning or late evening to avoid pollinators.
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Pyrethrin insecticides – Plant-derived pyrethrins are effective for beetle control when applied correctly. Do not over apply.
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Systemic insecticides – Long lasting protection by being taken up by the plant’s vascular system. Use with extreme caution and follow label precautions.
When using any chemical control, carefully follow all safety instructions and directions on the product labeling.
Preventing Future Beetle Problems
Once your infestation is under control, keep beetles away in the future by:
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Monitoring plants frequently for early signs of beetle damage. Catch invasions early.
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Fertilizing appropriately and amending soil to grow strong healthy plants that withstand attack.
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Rotating plant families in garden beds each season to disrupt beetle life cycles.
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Encouraging beneficial predator insects by growing nectar plants like sweet alyssum.
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Removing weeds, debris, and plant clutter that provide beetle hiding spots.
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Using row covers as a barrier to exclude flying beetles.
With persistence and an integrated pest management approach, you can protect your cherished bat faced cuphea from the scourge of plant-munching beetles. Consistent monitoring, prompt intervention, and prevention will allow you to enjoy the unique beauty of these plants beetle-free.
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Bat Face Cuphea Plant (Cuphea llavea) And Cutting Propagation
FAQ
How to care for bat face Cuphea?
How to get rid of leaf beetles?
How to keep Cuphea blooming?
How to get rid of flea beetles on eggplants?
What is a bat face Cuphea plant?
Native to Central America and Mexico, bat face cuphea plant (Cuphea llavea) is named for its interesting little bat-faced blooms of deep purple and bright red. Read this article for helpful informatio
How do you plant a bat-faced Cuphea?
Combine bat-faced cuphea with red or purple flowers or foliage to complement the flowers. Plant bat-faced cuphea in annual beds, along the edges of borders or paths, or in containers – including hanging baskets – where its unique flowers can be appreciated up close.
How do you care for a bat faced Cuphea?
For best results, provide plants with: Organic soil. Full sun or part shade, depending on where you live. Regular water. All-purpose fertilizer. Bat-faced cuphea is fairly low maintenance. You can perform some light tip pruning or pinching if plants become too leggy.
How do you grow a bat face Cuphea?
The easiest way to grow cuphea flowers is to purchase bedding plants at a nursery or garden center. Otherwise, start seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last hard frost in your area. Plant bat face cuphea in full sunlight and the plant will reward you with color throughout the season.