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This is the first year I started to notice my plants developing tiny, light-colored speckles all over the leaves. Because I generally practice IPM (Integrated Pest Management) in my garden, I wasn’t jumping for a spray or solution right away. Eventually I observed tiny little green bugs hopping amongst the leaves of my plants—leafhoppers! While the good news is that leafhopper damage is rarely fatal, there are still many reasons to get rid of leafhoppers in the garden.
I first noticed these tiny bugs whenever I’d disturb foliage. For example, I’d brush by a calendula plant and see tiny, light green bugs hop around. These light green, lightning-fast insects are leafhoppers (see photos). Truthfully, you will most likely observe leafhopper damage before you ever see a leafhopper. It’s very important to know the type of insect or pest you are dealing with prior to taking action. This is part of dealing with garden pests organically and using the building blocks of Integrated Pest Management (IPM).
What is Integrated Pest Management (IPM)? According to the UC statewide IPM program: “IPM is an ecosystem-based strategy that focuses on long-term prevention of pests or their damage through a combination of techniques such as biological control, habitat manipulation, modification of cultural practices, and use of resistant varieties….Pest control materials are selected and applied in a manner that minimizes risks to human health, beneficial and nontarget organisms, and the environment.”
Whew! I know that’s a mouthful, but basically my pest prevention strategy is to try trapping, companion planting, and creating a healthy ecosystem for beneficial insects before trying any sort of chemical sprays or pesticides to kill pests. Furthermore, I will only use treatments approved for organic gardening.
Autumn sage (Salvia greggii) is a gorgeous perennial plant that produces vibrant red flowers in the fall. Its low maintenance nature makes it a popular choice for many gardens. However, autumn sage is susceptible to leafhopper infestations. These tiny, wedge-shaped insects pierce plant tissues and suck out sap, causing stippling, yellowing, curling, and wilting of leaves. If left uncontrolled, heavy leafhopper damage can even kill plants.
In this comprehensive guide, we will explore various methods on how to get rid of leafhoppers on autumn sage plants, so you can enjoy its vibrant blooms without pesky insects damaging your plant.
Identifying Leafhoppers
Correctly identifying leafhoppers is crucial before taking any control measures. Here are some key identifying traits of these sap-sucking insects:
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Size and Shape: Adults leafhoppers are very small, about 1/4 inch long. They have a distinct wedge shape with a broad head that tapers back. Nymphs are even smaller and more oval.
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Color: Most species are green, yellow, brown or a mix of colors. Some have brightly colored markings. The nymphs are often pale and translucent.
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Wings: Adults have two pairs of clear, membranous wings that are held folded over their backs at an angle. Nymphs do not have fully developed wings.
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Movements: Leafhoppers are very quick and agile. They readily jump or fly short distances when disturbed.
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Feeding: These piercing-sucking insects feed on the undersides of leaves. Damage includes stippling, curling, yellowing, and wilting of foliage.
Carefully check the undersides of autumn sage leaves and stems for the presence of leafhopper adults, nymphs, shed skins, and eggs Early detection is key before they multiply and cause extensive damage
Natural and Organic Control Methods
For mild leafhopper infestations, try these organic and natural treatment options first:
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Insecticidal soaps – Potassium salts of fatty acids disrupt leafhopper membranes and physiology leading to dehydration and death Spray insecticidal soap directly on nymphs and adults It works best on direct contact.
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Neem oil – Azadirachtin and other compounds in neem oil act as insect growth regulators and antifeedants. Use neem oil as a repellent spray against leafhoppers.
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Pyrethrins – Derived from chrysanthemum flowers, pyrethrins attack the nervous system of leafhoppers. However, pyrethrins also kill beneficial insects. Use cautiously.
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Kaolin clay – This mineral powder deters feeding and egg laying by forming a physical barrier. It is safe for bees and helpful insects.
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Diatomaceous earth – The sharp silica in this powder abrades waxy cuticle of leafhoppers leading to dehydration. Avoid breathing in the dust.
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Garlic oil – Repels leafhoppers with its strong odor. Mix garlic oil with insecticidal soap for added effectiveness.
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Horticultural oils – These oils clog spiracles of insects, disrupting respiration. Acts by smothering eggs and nymphs, so good coverage is essential.
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Insect vacuuming – Use a handheld vacuum to suck up and remove leafhopper adults and nymphs. This works for light infestations.
Chemical Insecticides
For moderate to severe leafhopper infestations, you may need to use chemical insecticides:
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Carbaryl – Broad spectrum carbamate insecticide, effective against leafhoppers. Toxic to bees and aquatic life.
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Malathion – Organophosphate that inhibits nervous system enzymes. Kills beneficials too. Highly toxic to bees.
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Bifenthrin – Pyrethroid that attacks the nervous system. Broad spectrum so harmful for pollinators.
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Imidacloprid – Systemic neonicotinoid absorbed by plants. Persists a long time in soil and plants. Toxic to bees.
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Dinotefuran – Another systemic neonicotinoid, but more toxic to bees. Harmful to aquatic ecosystems.
When using chemical insecticides, exercise extreme caution. Always follow label directions and safety precautions. Avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators. Only use as a last resort when essential.
Cultural and Physical Controls
Implement these cultural practices to discourage leafhoppers:
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Remove and destroy severely infested plant parts and any dropped leaves or debris around the plant. This eliminates eggs and nymphs.
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Use reflective mulches like aluminum foil to deter adult leafhoppers from landing and laying eggs.
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Keep the garden free of weeds, which can act as reservoirs for leafhoppers.
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Use floating row covers as physical barriers to exclude adult leafhoppers. Remove during bloom for pollination.
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Plant leafhopper resistant autumn sage cultivars if available. Check with your local nursery.
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Conserve and attract natural predators like lady beetles, lacewings, and spiders to your garden. They feed on leafhoppers.
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Prune autumn sage lightly after flowering to remove damaged growth and improve air circulation. Do not shear plants.
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Water plants at soil level and avoid overhead watering to prevent mildews that leafhoppers transmit.
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Fertilize autumn sage monthly to keep it healthy. Stressed plants are more vulnerable to leafhoppers.
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Check for and treat leafhoppers on nearby plants too. Their populations build up when uncontrolled.
Prevention of Future Leafhopper Infestations
Here are some tips to avoid repeated leafhopper issues:
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Monitor plants closely each spring for early signs of leafhoppers before they multiply.
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Use yellow sticky cards placed near plants to trap adults and indicate when leafhoppers are active.
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Remove weed hosts like bindweed and wild mustard that allow overwintering leafhoppers to persist near gardens.
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Rotate autumn sage plantings to new locations year to year, away from the previous season’s infestation site.
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Select new autumn sage plants from nurseries with robust, pest free stock to start clean each season.
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Wash off leafhoppers from plant foliage with strong sprays of water. Reduce their grip.
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Cover susceptible new transplants with floating row covers until well established.
By taking an integrated approach using organic, chemical and physical control methods, you can protect autumn sage from destructive leafhopper damage. Consistent prevention and early intervention are key to avoid major infestations. With proper management, your autumn sage will once again produce abundant flowers and remain an eye-catching addition to your landscape.
What are leafhoppers and why are they bad for plants?
Leafhoppers are insects that feed on plant sap and juices. The adult leafhoppers actually lay their eggs inside plant tissue, and when their nymphs hatch, they continue to feast on your plants. Leafhoppers can also transmit diseases from plant to plant as they bite into the plant tissue.
What I have noticed is that the removal of plant juices often shows in the form of speckles or light spots all over the leaves. See the photo above for a picture of what leafhopper damage looks like. Leafhopper damage can become so severe, that it affects a plant’s ability to properly photosynthesize and will inhibit the growth of the plant. For mature plants, leafhopper damage is mostly aesthetic and won’t kill your plant, but I have noticed that my younger seedlings are severely stunted (and sometimes deformed) due to the damage from these tiny plant suckers.
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Special note: leafhopper damage can be confused with spidermite damage. They do look very similar in regards to a speckled or mottled appearance on the leaves. Try and spot actual leafhoppers on your plants, or turn the leaves over and look for tiny red mites to get a more accurate ID. Spidermites are worse, and the process to control them is much different than for leafhoppers. Hopefully I’ll have an article on spidermites soon.
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Will Leafhoppers Kill My Plants?
Before we talk about how to get rid of leafhoppers, let’s start with how concerned you should be. I’m happy to say that, most of the time, leafhoppers will not kill your plants. The damage caused by leafhoppers is simply annoying to see and not visually appealing. The picture above is a scarlet runner bean leaf with leafhopper damage. As you can see, there are tiny white dots that look like areas where the plant has be scraped of it’s green juices. Despite the damage, this scarlet runner bean plant is just fine and is over 6 feet tall!
Leafhoppers
FAQ
How do you control sage leafhoppers?
How do you get rid of a leafhopper infestation?
What is the best spray for leaf hoppers?
What chemical kills leafhoppers?
Are sage & Ligurian leaf hoppers dangerous?
Sage and Ligurian leafhoppers cause a pale mottling on upper leaf surfaces of host plants. By late summer affected leaves may be heavily mottled, although this seems to have little effect on the plants’ growth. Damage caused by Sage and Ligurian leafhoppers can generally be tolerated by host plants, and so control is not necessary.
What is a sage leaf hopper?
Sage and Ligurian leafhoppers are similar in appearance, they suck sap from aromatic plants in the Lamiaceae family, including sage, mints, lavender, bergamot, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, basil, thyme, and lemon balm. Their feeding causes a course pale mottling of the foliage. These leafhoppers are widespread in the UK.
How do I get rid of leaf hoppers in my garden?
This is partially due to the leafhoppers themselves, but moreso because the bacteria introduced by the pests will continue to spread. Take plants away from the garden carefully, trying not to disturb the bacteria or mold spores on your plant. Throw them in the trash, and dispose of the media.
How do I prevent leafhoppers in my garden?
If leafhoppers have damaged plants in your garden in the past, it’s important to clear out all infested vegetation to avoid overwintering insects. Rotating your crops throughout your garden on a 3 to 5 year cycle can also limit leafhopper activity. Floating row covers.