Spider mites are tiny sucking pests that can quickly wreak havoc on indoor and outdoor gardens. Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae) are common in North America and attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.
Interestingly, spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, making them relatives of spiders, ticks, and scorpions.
Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped, and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.
Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.
Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.
Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees, and most houseplants.
In this article, we’ll share everything you need to know about spider mites, including how to identify and prevent their damage, and how to get rid of them effectively.
Hey folks! If you grow herbs like me, you know one of the biggest nuisances is dealing with spider mites on delicate baby sage plants. I’ve been battling these tiny demons ever since I started my container herb garden, and I’ve finally found some methods that really work to get rid of them for good.
Now I ain’t no expert gardener, but through trial and error over the past few years, I’ve learned a lot about controlling spider mites organically and protecting my precious sage babies. In this post, I’ll share everything I wish I knew from the start about identifying, treating, and preventing spider mite infestations in baby sage plants. Let’s get to it!
Know Thy Enemy: How to Spot Spider Mites on Baby Sage
Spider mites are so tiny that at first, I had no clue they were infesting my herb plants! The earliest signs I missed were:
- Fine webbing on undersides of leaves
- Yellow stippling on leaves
- Leaf curling and wilting
Once the infestation gets bad, you’ll see leaves turn yellow or bronze and drop off completely. I almost lost a few plants before realizing I had a spider mite situation on my hands!
Check the undersides of leaves regularly to spot these nearly invisible mites early. Catching infestations quickly makes treatment much easier.
Organic Spider Mite Treatments: From Sprays to Predators
If you catch an infestation early, lightly pruning affected parts of the plant can nip the problem in the bud But once mites are everywhere, pruning alone won’t cut it Here are some organic solutions I’ve used with success
Insecticidal Soap
This is my go-to treatment! Mix a few tablespoons of liquid castile soap with water and spray plant leaves thoroughly. The soap disrupts the mites’ cell membranes and kills them. Repeat spraying every 5-7 days until no more mites.
Neem Oil
Neem oil is extracted from neem trees and kills spider mites on contact. Mix neem oil spray according to package directions and coat the undersides of leaves. Reapply weekly as needed.
Predatory Mites
Releasing predatory mites like Phytoseiulus persimilis to feast on spider mites is an effective organic biocontrol, They wipe out infestations without any spraying!
Water Spray Downs
Blasting leaves with water can help wash away mites and their webs. Focus on undersides of leaves and do this daily or every other day.
When All Else Fails: Miticides and Insecticides
If organic treatments aren’t getting rid of the spider mites, chemical options like miticides and systemic insecticides may be necessary. Always follow label directions carefully and avoid overuse. Here are two I’ve used sparingly:
- Abamectin miticide/insecticide
- Azadirachtin neem oil insecticide
These should only be used as a last resort since they can impact beneficial insects like ladybugs too. I try to avoid them on my edible baby sage if possible.
Once You Win, Keep Mites Away with Preventive Care
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of spider mite treatment! Here are some tips to keep your baby sage free of mites:
- Remove any infected plants immediately
- Keep sage soil consistently moist
- Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs
- Check for mites frequently
- Clean garden debris regularly
- Avoid overcrowding plants
Damage Caused by Spider Mites
Spider mites are tough to spot with the naked eye, which allows them to pass into our gardens without notice. They use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to feed on sap from plant cells on the underside of leaves.
Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny yellow spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl, and fall off. Certain plants, like azalea, may even develop distorted leaves and flowers due to this damage.
The mites’ activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems. Often, these signs and symptoms can be confused with drought stress.
The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:
- On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons, and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
- On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
- On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
What are Spider Mites?
Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) are one of the most common pests in gardens. They are smaller than the head of a pin, which makes them hard to spot.
Due to their eight legs, rather than six, these bugs are classified as arachnids (related to spiders) rather than insects. Most spider mites have the ability to produce fine silk webbing.
There are over 1600 species of spider mites, with two-spotted spider mite and the red spider mite being the most common in the United States. Their colors can range from red, green, yellow, orange, to even brown.
The twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) is orange in color with two dark spots on the sides. It also happens to be the main culprit in houseplants and greenhouse infestations as well as most ornamental plants.
Spider mites come out to eat plants when the weather warms up in the spring. This can cause plants to become sensitive to disease and other issues. Spider mites have a fast rate of reproduction, and each female lays hundreds of eggs.
Super Simple Spider Mite Control and Prevention
FAQ
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