Knowing your climate zone will help you decide the best time to sow the vegetables, herbs and flowers you want to grow, and which varieties should perform well in your garden. Growing plants that are suited to your climate zone will usually give you the best results in your garden.
The name thrips covers a group of several thousand insect species which are all members of the Thysanoptera or fringed wings order. The vast majority of these bugs are harmless and pose no threat to your flowers and veggies, living quietly in leaf litter and feeding on the fungus it contains.
But unfortunately, a small number of thrips varieties can become serious pests in both home gardens and commercial agriculture. Several common plants are at particular risk:
And just to complicate matters, some thrips are also happy to feed on common weeds, making most gardens a potential breeding ground.
The worst offenders in Australia include western flower thrips (Franklinella occidentalis), onion thrips, tomato thrips and the dramatically named plague thrips. All of these species can cause two major problems through their feeding habits.
First, depending on the species, thrips will feed on the growing tips, flowers and fruit of their target plant, damaging the outer cell walls and sucking out the contents. A minor infestation will result in unsightly discolouration to foliage and flowers, cosmetic damage that may be tolerable to most gardeners. With a major infestation however, thrips’ feeding can stunt growth and greatly reduce yields.
Even more seriously, thrips can carry a number of incurable viruses, including tomato spotted wilt, most of which are fatal to the target plant once transmitted to the plant during feeding.
Because of these two dangers, being alert to the first signs of a thrips arrival is vital to limit the damage.
Baby sage plants with their tender green leaves and delicate stems can fall prey to infestations by thrips – tiny slender insects that pierce plant tissues to feed. While rarely fatal thrips can weaken and severely damage young sage if left unchecked. However several effective organic remedies can safely eliminate thrips from your precious baby sage.
Identifying Thrips on Baby Sage
Catching thrips early is key to protecting baby sage. Watch for these signs of infestation:
- Silvery streaks or spots on leaves caused by thrips’ saliva
- Distorted, curled or wrinkled foliage
- Dried, scarred patches on leaves
- Black dots of excrement called frass
- Yellowing, drooping leaves or stunted growth
Gently shake the plant over a white sheet of paper. Tiny specks crawling on the paper are likely thrips. Also check leaf undersides directly to spot the 1-2mm long winged insects Their bodies range from clear to yellow, brown or black. Act quickly once thrips are detected to prevent proliferation
Eco-Friendly Ways to Remove Thrips
Baby sage is sensitive, so gentle, natural methods are ideal for thrips removal. Try these safe techniques first before considering pesticides:
Blast Them with Water
Powerful sprays of water can dislodge and kill thrips by forcing them off plants. Adjust nozzles to a narrow stream and target leaf undersides and crevices where thrips hide. Repeat spraying daily or every other day to keep thrips at bay. Adding a few drops of liquid soap boosts efficacy.
Apply Neem Oil
Derived from the neem tree, this non-toxic oil coats insects, blocking their breathing and disrupting their life cycle. Mix neem oil concentrate with water according to package directions and spray thoroughly on baby sage. Reapply weekly for 2-3 weeks. Neem oil is safe for humans and pets once dry.
Wipe Leaves with Soap
Mix 1-2 tsp insecticidal soap per 1 quart water in a spray bottle. Add a pinch of cinnamon or peppermint oil to help deter thrips. Dab soapy solution directly on leaves using a soft cloth, especially under leaves where thrips congregate. The soap destroys thrips’ exoskeletons.
Remove Heavily Infested Foliage
Prune off badly damaged leaves and stems harboring high concentrations of thrips. Dispose of infested plant matter immediately in sealed bags. Removing the most compromised parts of baby sage eliminates thrips breeding spots. New foliage grows pest-free.
Apply Diatomaceous Earth
This powder made of crushed fossils feels like glass to insects, causing fatal scratches and dehydration. Sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the soil around baby sage. Some also advocate dusting it lightly on leaves. Crucial to reapply after rain or watering.
Attract Predatory Insects
Encourage beneficial predatory insects like ladybugs, lacewings and minute pirate bugs which feed on thrips. Plant nectar-producing flowers near the baby sage to draw predators. They will help keep thrips controlled naturally.
When to Use Pesticides on Baby Sage
If non-toxic methods fail to conquer the thrips infesting your baby sage, limited pesticide use may be warranted. Take these precautions:
- Spot treat only affected areas instead of entire plant.
- Choose least toxic product specifically for thrips on edible herbs.
- Follow all label instructions carefully for handling and dosage.
- Apply at first signs of infestation for best results.
- Always wear protective equipment when using pesticides.
- Dispose of and clean pesticide materials properly.
Most importantly, allow time after each application for pesticides to take effect before reapplying. Repeated spraying builds resistance in thrips. Be patient, avoid overusing chemicals and your baby sage will perk up pest-free.
Preventing Recurrence of Thrips
Vigilance is vital to keep thrips at bay once baby sage is cleared of infestation.Implement these proactive measures:
-
Check baby sage daily for signs of pests. Early detection allows quicker removal before thrips multiply.
-
Clear garden debris and remove weeds regularly to eliminate thrips’ breeding grounds.
-
Space baby sage appropriately to allow air circulation, which thrips dislike.
-
Avoid over-fertilization that spurs excessive growth attractive to thrips.
-
Rinse off plants in the morning to prevent thrips settling for the day.
-
Mix up control methods to prevent thrips adapting to a single technique.
By combining preventive practices with prompt removal when spotted, thrips can be managed without harming baby sage. Just a few simple organic remedies coupled with vigilance will keep your precious plant pest-free and able to grow to its fullest potential. Don’t let tiny thrips bully your baby sage – send them packing with these easy, eco-friendly control strategies.
Identification and Life Cycle
Most thrips are slender, sausage-shaped insects measuring between 0.5mm and 2mm, usually coloured a yellowish-orange or greyish-black. The larger part of the insects length is made up of a striped abdomen, with most adults having the fringed wings which are the defining feature of the thrips family.
Thrips can breed parthenogenetically – that is, the eggs hatch without being fertilised – which means some populations are 100% female. In other thrips infestations, males are present but heavily outnumbered by females.
In both cases, this gender imbalance is bad news when it comes to population growth, as each female can lay between 20 and 300 eggs within her brief lifetime. Unfortunately, the eggs are often laid within the tissue of the host plant, so its rare to spot the problem at this early and easily cured stage.
After between two days and two weeks, depending on temperature and species, the eggs hatch into larvae that look similar to the adults, although paler in colour and always wingless. The larvae will feed on their host plants for around a week before entering a pupal stage, with the cocoons either attached to the plant, buried in the soil below, or concealed in surrounding leaf litter.
After a few days, the pupae hatch into adults which can live for two to six weeks, feeding and reproducing as they go. This compact life cycle means that populations can rise rapidly, with up to a dozen generations a year in mild climates and even more in areas with year-round warmth.
Thrips feed at both the larval and adult stages, causing similar symptoms in both cases. Because the larvae hatch and feed in groups their damage can be more concentrated and visible. Foliage will become discoloured, with pale spots where the chlorophyll has been sucked out or streaks of silvering in more extreme cases. Flowers will also show blemishes, usually brown, and you may see dark waste droppings on all parts of the plant but particularly on lighter-coloured flowers.
How to Use Climate Zones
First, find your climate zone using the map or descriptions below. Next, refer to our sowing chart, which provides approximate sowing times for our most popular seeds for each climate zone.
While knowing your climate zone is helpful when planning your garden, there are many other factors that may affect how your plants grow, including unseasonal weather conditions, the specific microclimate of your garden and how you care for your plants. You know your garden better than us, so if a different climate zone seems to ‘fit’ your garden better, go ahead and use it as a guide.
Our climate zones cover huge areas of Australia, so we recommend gardeners also consider their local conditions when planning what and when to plant. For example, gardeners in alpine areas have shorter growing seasons than gardeners in cool coastal areas, even though both alpine and coastal areas are included in our ‘Cool Temperate’ climate zone. We recommend gardeners in cool regions look at the ‘days to maturity’ information provided for each variety and choose those that will mature in a short (6-12 week) growing season.
- Includes: Darwin, Cairns, Townsville, Exmouth
- High humidity summers with most rainfall in summer and dry, warm winters. Includes northern Australia from Exmouth (WA) across to south of Townsville (Qld).
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Alice Springs, Mildura, Albury-Wodonga, Shepparton, Wagga Wagga, Dubbo
- Hot dry summers, winters can be warm or cool depending on the region. Includes a large area of central Australia from the WA coast to Charleville (Qld), Tamworth (NSW) and Albury-Wodonga (NSW/Vic).
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Brisbane, Bundaberg, Coffs Harbour, Gold Coast, Hervey Bay, Mackay, Rockhampton, Sunshine Coast
- Warm humid summers with high summer rainfall and mild winters. Includes coastal Queensland and northern NSW from north of Mackay to just south of Coffs Harbour.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Sydney, Perth, Adelaide, Newcastle, Toowoomba, Central Coast NSW, Wollongong, Bunbury
- Moderate humidity and reliable rainfall, with four distinct seasons. Includes coastal areas from north of Port Macquarie to south of Woollongong in NSW, coastal SA and the southeastern coast of WA.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Launceston, Ballarat, Bendigo, Geelong, Mt Gambier
- Low humidity with most rainfall in winter; hot dry summers and cold winters. Some regions will experience frosts and snow. Includes coastal areas of south-eastern Australia and alpine areas of Victoria, NSW and Tasmania.
- Set as my climate My climate
What if I can’t find my climate zone? If you can’t locate your zone from looking at the map or the descriptions on this page, we suggest that you think of an area that has a climate that’s similar to yours and use the zone for that area as a guide.
What if I live on the border of two zones? If you live near the border between two zones we suggest you read the descriptions for both zones and decide which best describes the climate where you live. Depending on the microclimate in your garden, you may be able to grow a wider range of plants over a longer season than others in your zone. Lucky you!
What is a microclimate? A microclimate is a small area where the temperature or humidity differs to the climate of the surrounding area. For example, if you live in a climate zone where frosts are common but your garden is protected by buildings or large trees, your garden may be frost-free. Similarly, if you live in a warm temperate zone but your garden is at a high altitude your microclimate may have more in common with the cool temperate zone, so use this as a guide when deciding which zone is relevant to you.
Can I grow varieties not listed for my climate zone? While our climate zones and sowing chart will help you decide what is suitable to plant in your garden, they provide general guidance only. We recommend you start by sowing seed that’s recommended for your climate zone; once you get a few successes under your belt you can experiment with varieties in neighbouring zones and see how you go – gardening is all about experimenting after all!
The name thrips covers a group of several thousand insect species which are all members of the Thysanoptera or fringed wings order. The vast majority of these bugs are harmless and pose no threat to your flowers and veggies, living quietly in leaf litter and feeding on the fungus it contains.
But unfortunately, a small number of thrips varieties can become serious pests in both home gardens and commercial agriculture. Several common plants are at particular risk:
- Veggie patch staples including beans, capsicums, cucumber, onion, tomato, rockmelon and strawberries.
- Flowers including carnations, chrysanthemums, dahlias and roses.
And just to complicate matters, some thrips are also happy to feed on common weeds, making most gardens a potential breeding ground.
The worst offenders in Australia include western flower thrips (Franklinella occidentalis), onion thrips, tomato thrips and the dramatically named plague thrips. All of these species can cause two major problems through their feeding habits.
First, depending on the species, thrips will feed on the growing tips, flowers and fruit of their target plant, damaging the outer cell walls and sucking out the contents. A minor infestation will result in unsightly discolouration to foliage and flowers, cosmetic damage that may be tolerable to most gardeners. With a major infestation however, thrips’ feeding can stunt growth and greatly reduce yields.
Even more seriously, thrips can carry a number of incurable viruses, including tomato spotted wilt, most of which are fatal to the target plant once transmitted to the plant during feeding.
Because of these two dangers, being alert to the first signs of a thrips arrival is vital to limit the damage.
Get Rid Of Thrips FAST! How To Treat + Prevent Thrips On Plants ❌
FAQ
What instantly kills thrips?
What is the best control for thrips?
Do thrips ever go away?
How do you get rid of thrips on flowers?
Thrips on flowers can be eliminated as soon as you see signs of damage by using a mild insecticide like insecticidal soap or neem oil, or by pruning away the flowers. You never want to shear your plants because the new growth caused by shearing will attract even more thrips than you had before shearing the plant.
What should one do if they have strep throat while pregnant?
If you have strep throat while pregnant, it is important to see your doctor right away. Strep throat is a bacterial infection that can cause serious complications for both you and your baby if it is not treated.
How to prevent thrips from taking over a plant?
Making use of your vacuum is a smart way to prevent thrips from taking over. The critters are so lightweight that gusts of wind transport them from plant to plant. Therefore, it is relatively easy to remove them with a vacuum cleaner that will suction them into a disposable dust bag.
What plants repel thrips?
Plants that repel thrips include basil, marigolds, and garlic. If possible, plant these in your garden to help keep the critters away. There are many species of thrips, also called thunderbugs, storm flies, or thunderflies, recorded today, and possibly the number is even higher.