Cuphea llavea is one of about 260 species of Cupheas in the loosestrife family (Lythraceae). This fast growing tender broadleaf evergreen sub-shrub native to Mexico is sold as an annual or houseplant in cooler climates, sometimes under the synonym C. blepharophylla. It is often a conversation plant due to its unique flower shape. 
The common name bat-faced cuphea comes from the resemblance of the ends of the flower to a tiny bat face but it may also be called red cuphea or just cuphea (along with several other species; orange bat-faced cuphea is a different species, C. oreophila.) 
Plants can grow up to 2½ feet tall, but when grown as seasonal annuals generally only become 12-18 inches tall with an equal spread. They have a rounded, bushy habit and the foliage remains fresh all season if watered sufficiently. The stems are crowded with alternate dark green, thick, sandpapery leaves up to 3” long. Each ovate leaf is pointed and hairy. The foliage can tolerate light frost but not a hard freeze. 
Bat-faced cuphea begins blooming in late spring and continues until frost, producing clusters of numerous flowers in the leaf axils. Each flower has a one inch long, hairy purple calyx with two upward facing red petals at the end, forming the “ears” to go with the “bat face”. The remaining four petals are just little spiny remnants in the species but in some cultivars these are fully developed. Flowers are attractive to hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. The small, brown lentil-shaped seeds are found at the base of spent flowers that remain on the plant. 
There are a number of cultivars available which vary from the species including:
Plant bat-faced cuphea in annual beds, along the edges of borders or paths, or in containers – including hanging baskets – where its unique flowers can be appreciated up close. Combine bat-faced cuphea with plants with purple foliage or bright purple flowers to complement the dark “faces” of the flowers or red flowers, such as bright red impatiens, to coordinate with the “ears”. Use it alone or mixed with other plants such as coleus and ‘Blackie’ sweet potato vine in containers. Container-grown plants can be moved indoors to overwinter in a bright, sunny location with at least four hours of direct sun. Reduce watering and keep relatively cool (in the 60°F’s). 
Grow bat-faced cuphea in full sun in the ground or in containers. Provide regular moisture, although plants will tolerate dry conditions occasionally. Fertilize plants in containers several times during the summer months. Pinch back or shear if plants become too leggy later in the growing season. This low maintenance plant has few insect or disease problems but may be infested with whiteflies, mealybugs or aphids. C. llavea is propagated from seed, short softwood cuttings taken in late spring, or large plants can be divided. Start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before the average last date of frost. The seeds need light to germinate so just press into the soil surface or barely cover. Seeds should germinate in 8-10 days if maintained at 70°F.
The bat faced cuphea (Cuphea llavea) is a popular ornamental plant loved for its unique flowers that resemble bats. However, like any plant, it can fall victim to pests – especially thrips. Thrips are tiny winged insects that pierce plant cells and suck out the contents, leaving behind yellowing, distorted growth. An infestation can quickly get out of hand, so it’s important to take action as soon as the first signs appear. Here are the most effective ways to get rid of thrips in bat faced cuphea plants.
Identifying Thrips
The first step is learning how to spot thrips. They are tiny (less than 2mm long) and vary in color from yellow to dark brown. You’ll usually notice them on the undersides of leaves and petals. Some signs of a thrips infestation include:
- Silvery patches or scarring on leaves and flowers
- Distorted, curled growth on new leaves and buds
- Yellow spots or discolored areas on foliage
- Black dots of excrement on leaves and petals
- Flower buds that fail to open or fall off
Thrips multiply rapidly, so if you spot any of these signs it’s important to act fast before they spread further.
Removing by Hand
If the infestation is minor, manually removing thrips may eliminate them Take the plant to a sink or outside area and spray thoroughly with water Use a high pressure setting to blast away and dislodge the insects. Pay close attention to the undersides of leaves and petals where thrips like to hide.
For any remaining thrips, use a toothpick, tweezers, or cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to pick them off individually. Be sure to check new growth and buds where thrips often congregate. Monitor the plant closely over the next week and repeat the process if more thrips are spotted. This method works best for small populations.
Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soap is an organic pesticide that can control thrips without harming beneficial insects like bees. It works by penetrating the insect’s outer shell and causing dehydration. Mix according to label instructions and spray all leaf surfaces, especially the undersides, as well as stems and buds. Use a spray bottle for easier targeting. Apply every 5-7 days for 2-3 weeks until thrips are gone. Insecticidal soap works best before populations get out of control.
Neem Oil
Extracted from the neem tree, this natural oil smothers and disrupts the life cycle of thrips when sprayed directly on infested plants. Mix neem oil concentrate with water according to directions and use a spray bottle to completely coat the plant, including tops and undersides of leaves. Reapply every 7-14 days for 3-4 weeks. Spray in the evening to avoid harming pollinators that are active during the day. Neem oil is safe to use up to the day of harvest.
Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a powder made from crushed fossils that destroys insects through microscopic cuts in their exoskeleton. Sprinkle a fine layer of food-grade DE on the soil around the base of the plant. It will kill thrips in the soil as they develop into adults. Reapply after rain or watering. DE is non-toxic to humans and pets but avoid inhaling the dust. Wear a mask when applying. It provides continued protection as long as it remains dry on the soil surface.
Sticky Traps
Yellow or blue sticky traps lure adult thrips in for monitoring purposes and control. The color mimics flower colors that attract them. Place traps near infested plants, just above the height of the foliage. Replace traps every 2-3 weeks until thrips activity subsides. Using traps in combination with other methods catches thrips at different points in their life cycle.
Predatory Insects
Ladybugs, lacewing larvae, minute pirate bugs, and predatory mites all feed on thrips. These beneficial predators can be ordered online and released onto infested plants. Follow instructions from the supplier so populations become established. Combining predators with other methods like sticky traps gives a big boost in eliminating thrips. Predators offer ongoing, natural control of any later outbreaks.
Prevention
Preventing thrips from ever gaining a foothold is the best strategy. Here are some tips:
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Quarantine new plants for 2 weeks to ensure they are not harboring thrips.
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Avoid overfertilizing which causes succulent growth that attracts thrips.
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Prune plants to increase air circulation and avoid overcrowding.
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Use reflective mulch to deter thrips from reaching plants.
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Hose off plants regularly to disturb adult thrips.
With vigilance and early intervention, an infestation can be quickly contained before serious damage occurs. If the bat faced cuphea is heavily infested, prune off heavily damaged leaves and buds to promote new, healthy growth. Consistent monitoring and multiple control methods are key for getting rid of thrips in bat faced cuphea or any flowering plant. So don’t delay taking action against these destructive invaders!
Frequency of Entities:
bat faced cuphea – 18
thrips – 24
leaves – 7
flowers – 5
infestation – 5
pest – 1
plant – 12
treatment – 7
get rid of – 5
control – 4
information – 2
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How do you grow a bat-faced Cuphea?
Grow bat-faced cuphea in full sun in the ground or in containers. Provide regular moisture, although plants will tolerate dry conditions occasionally. Fertilize plants in containers several times during the summer months. Pinch back or shear if plants become too leggy later in the growing season.
How do you care for a bat-faced Cuphea?
Bat-faced cuphea is fairly low maintenance. You can perform some light tip pruning or pinching if plants become too leggy. Additionally, you might want to do a late-winter shape-up, trimming the plant into a nice form. There’s no need to deadhead the flowers of this plant. You can often find open-pollinated cuphea at garden centers.
What is a bat face Cuphea plant?
Native to Central America and Mexico, bat face cuphea plant (Cuphea llavea) is named for its interesting little bat-faced blooms of deep purple and bright red. Read this article for helpful informatio
Do cupheas have a bat face?
From their bat-faced appearance to their vibrant colors, cupheas add a touch of whimsy and beauty to any garden. So, if you’re looking for a plant that is both easy to care for and visually stunning, look no further than cupheas. Cuphea Bat Face, also known as Cuphea llavea, is a unique plant with beautiful bat-like flowers.