Caterpillars, as every schoolchild knows, eventually turn into butterflies and moths. So why do you want to get rid of them? They may be beautiful and excellent pollinators, but as caterpillars or larvae, unfortunately, they are one of the most destructive pests in vegetable gardens and orchards. Read on for advice on identifying signs of caterpillar infestations and how to control and get rid of them using non-toxic methods.
As a gardener and sage plant enthusiast, I was disheartened when I discovered tiny worms munching away on the leaves of my baby sage plants. These pesky pests can quickly damage and even kill young sage plants if left uncontrolled. Through trial and error over the years, I’ve learned effective methods to get rid of worms in baby sage plants and protect my herb garden. In this article, I’ll share what I’ve learned so you can keep your baby sages worm-free and flourishing.
Identifying the Culprits
The first step is identifying the type of worms invading your baby sage Common worm pests include
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Cutworms – plump, smooth caterpillars that hide in soil and chew through stems at night They leave ragged, uneven holes in leaves
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Leafminers – larvae that burrow between leaf surfaces, creating meandering trails or blotches.
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Armyworms – hairy caterpillars with dark stripes that skeletonize leaves by eating all but veins and midribs.
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Loopers – smooth, green inchworms with just two or three pairs of prolegs that produce holes in foliage.
Check the undersides of leaves and around stems to spot culprits. Identifying the worm type will help you choose the best removal method.
Safe, Natural Worm Control Methods
For mild worm invasions, I recommend starting with natural, non-toxic remedies:
Handpicking
Manually inspect leaves and pick off any worms you find. Drop them into soapy water to kill. Be thorough – check daily. Handpicking works well for light infestations and is safe for you and your plant.
Water Sprays
A strong jet of water can knock worms right off your plant. Blast the tops and undersides of leaves. Repeat daily as needed. The fall may kill some worms or deter them from returning.
Neem Oil
Extracted from the neem tree, this non-toxic oil smothers and repels small soft-bodied insects when sprayed on plants. Follow instructions and coat sage leaves, especially the undersides.
Diatomaceous Earth
Sprinkle this chalky powder, made from fossilized algae, on the soil. The sharp particles damage worms on contact. It’s non-toxic for humans and wildlife. Reapply after rain or watering.
Insecticidal Soap
Spraying a soap-based insecticide directly on worms and larvae will penetrate their soft bodies and dehydrate them. Use a ready-to-use product and coat all leaf surfaces.
Chemical Pesticides for Severe Infestations
For heavy worm invasions, I suggest chemical pesticides as a last resort if non-toxic methods fail:
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
This bacteria-based insecticide targets leaf-eating larvae but is safe for people and wildlife. Different strains work on different species, so choose accordingly. It must be ingested to work so coat leaves. Reapply after rain.
Spinosad
A natural pesticide derived from bacteria kills worms via contact or ingestion. Adhere to label instructions as it can also harm beneficial insects. Spray leaves thoroughly and repeat weekly if needed.
Carbaryl
This common chemical insecticide kills worms on contact and via ingestion. Use extreme care as it is also toxic to humans and can kill pollinators. Never apply to blooming sage plants and avoid inhaling.
No matter which pesticide, always follow label directions carefully. I prefer to spot treat only infected areas versus the entire plant if possible. Monitor results and reapply as directed.
Preventing Future Worm Problems
Getting rid of worms is only half the battle. Preventing future infestations is key to keeping your baby sage plants worm-free for good:
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Remove any heavily damaged leaves or stems to eliminate eggs and larvae before they spread.
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Till soil well in spring and fall to expose overwintering worms and larvae so birds can eat them.
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Rotate sage plants to different areas of your garden each year to disrupt worm life cycles.
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Space plants properly to allow air circulation and prevent moisture-loving worms.
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Clean up and destroy fallen leaves and debris that provide worm habitat.
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Apply mulch around plants to reduce soil splashing onto lower leaves where worms congregate.
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Monitor plants closely and frequently for any signs of worms. Remove immediately before they multiply.
Plant Food Crops and Flowers Separately
Butterflies are most attracted to nectar-rich flowers. If caterpillars are a problem, keeping your pollinator plantings separate from your food plantings will lessen the chance of a caterpillar infestation in your vegetable garden.
Signs of Caterpillar Activity
One of the most disheartening sights in the vegetable garden is your otherwise flourishing plants full of holes, or the leaves chewed down to their stems. Caterpillars can do a lot of damage in a short time. They tend to be most active in late summer and early autumn, right when many garden crops are starting to get bigger. While some caterpillars are showy or distinctive and easy to recognize, others have very effective camouflage and are challenging to spot. But there are signs of their presence.
- Eggs: These are left behind on the host plant by the butterfly. They may be hard to differentiate from other insect eggs, so be observant when you see butterflies lingering on your plants.
- Leaf damage: Caterpillars usually chew on leaves from the outer edges instead of leaving holes in the middle of leaves.
- Frass: Frass is the technical term for caterpillar poop. It looks like tiny grains of black pepper, and caterpillars tend to leave it behind wherever they are actively feeding.
- Webbed nests: Webworms and tent caterpillars larval webbed nests and intense eating frenzies defoliates trees
Control Catepillars In The Garden Organically And Effectively
FAQ
What to spray on ferns for worms?
How do I stop bugs from eating my sage?
How do I get rid of worms in my houseplant soil?
How do you get rid of bugs on sage plants?
Mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon of a mild dish detergent, and 2 1/2 tablespoons of olive oil in a gallon of water to make a solution that will repel all kinds of bugs, as well as a fungicide for mildew on the sage plant leaves. Shake it well in your bottle before spraying and repeat every week for it to be continuously effective.
How do you protect Sage from pests?
Plant sage in a location that is protected from pests. This could include planting it in a garden bed that is surrounded by a fence or planting it under a tree. Water sage regularly to keep the soil moist. This will help to deter pests, such as aphids, which are attracted to dry plants.
How do you get rid of mildew on a sage plant?
Make your own pest spray. You can make your own pest spray with benign materials. Mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon of a mild dish detergent, and 2 1/2 tablespoons of olive oil in a gallon of water to make a solution that will repel all kinds of bugs, as well as a fungicide for mildew on the sage plant leaves.
How do I get rid of cutworms in my garden?
A wash of bleach-free dish soap and water on your plants can also help to stop cutworms from attacking the plants. Another approach is the use of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a naturally occurring bacterium that target many caterpillar-type pests. It can be an effective and environmentally friendly way to treat cutworms in the garden.