Fritillaria bulbs offer a fun and unique way to add bold, exotic flair to your spring garden. With their checkered, nodding flowers in a dizzying array of colors, shapes and patterns, these uncommon bulbs are sure to delight.
If you want to grow these captivating plants next season proper planting of the bulbs in fall is crucial for success. Here is a complete guide to getting your fritillaria bulbs off to the right start.
Choosing the Best Site
When selecting a planting spot fritillaria need
- Well-draining soil – Avoid soggy areas
- Full sun to partial shade – Depending on variety
- Zones 4-9 – Check tags for specific variety hardiness
Before planting, it’s a good idea to work some compost or other organic material into the soil to improve drainage if needed. Fritillaria bulbs should not be planted in containers, as they prefer to remain undisturbed for many years.
Knowing When to Plant the Bulbs
To enjoy spring blooms, fritillaria bulbs must be planted in fall, generally:
- Late summer in warmer climates
- Early to mid fall in cooler regions
This timing allows the bulbs to establish roots before winter dormancy sets in.
Planting Fritillaria Bulbs at the Optimal Depth
Proper planting depth is vital for your fritillaria bulbs to grow their best:
- Crown Imperials – Plant 5-6 inches deep, 10-12 inches apart
- Checkered Lilies – Plant 3-4 inches deep, 4 inches apart
- Other types – Plant 3-4 inches deep, 4-6 inches apart
Use these guidelines tailored to the specific type of fritillaria you are planting.
Digging the Right Size Hole
Use a trowel to dig holes to the recommended depth based on the variety you are planting. The hole should be approximately two times the width of the bulb.
Placing the Bulb Correctly
Gently place the bulb into the hole with the pointed end facing up. If the bulb has a divot on top, indicating the previous year’s stem, ensure this is oriented upward. Bulbs with no indentation should be planted with the flat side down.
Backfilling the Hole
Fill in the hole with the excavated soil, taking care not to pack it down too firmly. Gently firm the soil around the bulb with your hands.
Watering Thoroughly
Water well after planting to settle the soil. This will eliminate air pockets and help the roots establish.
Follow Up Care of Your Fritillaria Bulbs
To keep your fritillaria bulbs growing strongly:
- Water during active growth, around 1″ per week
- Allow foliage to fully ripen after blooming
- Remove spent foliage only when it yellows and dies back
- Provide a rest period of 2-3 months after foliage fades
- Avoid frequent division or disturbance
Excellent drainage is imperative, as soggy soil will cause the bulbs to rot.
What to Expect After Planting
Here is an overview of what happens with your fritillaria bulbs from planting through bloom:
Fall – Roots start developing underground
Winter – Foliage and flower buds form during cold period
Spring – Leaves emerge, followed by flowers
Summer – Foliage dies back as bulb enters dormancy
Tips for Growing Success
Follow these tips to get the most from your fritillaria bulbs:
- Loosen heavy soil with organic matter to improve drainage
- Plant Crown Imperials toward the back since some dislike the scent
- Wear gloves when handling bulbs as they can irritate skin
- Don’t worry if bulb arrives with a hole on top, this is normal
- Allow foliage to fully ripen after blooming to nourish the bulb
- Avoid frequent disturbance for best results over time
- Ensure excellent drainage and prevent soggy soil
- Deadhead spent blooms but keep foliage intact
- Plant bulbs as soon as received in fall to avoid drying out
Proper planting depth and care in fall will set your fritillaria bulbs up for a spectacular floral display next spring. With well-drained soil and sunlight, these unique bulbs are easy and fun to grow. Follow this guide for success planting your fritillaria this fall!
Fritillaria Horticultural Tips
Deer- and rodent-resistant Fritillaria have ivory, yellow, green, plum or two-tone pendant, bell-shaped flowers on lithe wiry stems, or strong upright racemes. The degree of compaction between the pendant florets varies by variety. Varieties of Fritillaria persica have variable compaction of florets on their upright racemes. Available in diverse heights ranging from 8″ to 36″ tall and sizes, most of our Fritillaria were native to the western Himalayas and Asia Minor as far back as 1575. They prefer rich, well-draining neutral pH soil and filtered sunlight. A bit more finicky than other flower bulbs, these heirlooms dont like being out of the soil, so plant them immediately upon receipt.
Heirloom Fritillaria If you are looking for heirloom flower bulbs, you’ve hit the jackpot with Fritillaria.
Horticultural Zone Hardiness Each variety of Fritillaria has its own hardiness zone requirements that should be considered when selecting varieties for your garden. If your garden is in a horticultural zone that is either too cold or only marginally appropriate, you may want to apply no more than a 2″ layer of mulch after the ground surface freezes in the fall. The mulch should trap the cool temperatures into the soil, not warmth. Mulch helps to protect the bulbs from arctic temperature spikes. Good mulching mediums include straw, salt marsh hay or oak leaves. In the spring, you can loosen the mulch in the area in which the Fritillaria will be sprouting.
Bulb Inspection Check your shipment against the packing slip and make sure that everything is as it should be. Occasionally, bags of smaller bulbs may be placed in the inner boxes of other bulbs to reduce jostling during shipment. If you can’t find something, open all of the inner boxes. If there is a discrepancy, please call us immediately so that we may resolve it with you. Since every bag or box of bulbs in your order has been scanned using its UPC barcode, we can usually tell you in which box each variety is located.
Inspect your bulbs carefully. We make every effort to ship you only healthy, firm, top quality bulbs.
Fritillaria bulbs look different from other types of flower bulbs like Tulips or Narcissi. It is natural for some types of bulbs to develop a transportation mold when they are exposed to oxygen. It is a natural gray-blue-green mold that occurs when they are exposed to air, and that disappears as soon as the bulbs are planted. The soil naturally wicks it away. If you prefer, you may spread the bulbs out in the sun, or brush it off with a paper towel although it is not necessary.
Little cuts, scars, discolored exteriors and dimples are normal marks from the flower bulb harvesting, cleaning and sizing processes in the Netherlands. Some bulbs may have a fully intact, papery skin while others have partial skins, and others may be skinless. The existence or condition of the skin has nothing to do with the performance of the bulb. The most important factor is the way that the bulb feels. As long as the bulb is firm, it is a good and viable bulb. Some bulbs may already have tiny baby bulbs developing on the basal plate (root base) of the bulb. Some bulbs may have existing roots, while others have none. Some bulbs are prettier than others, but you can rest assured that all of the flowers will be gorgeous!
Sometimes, you might find a large Fritillaria bulb that appears kind of flat on one side….like a big tear drop with a flat side. It appears like this because the strong woody stem of the Fritillaria came out after dying back in the spring, and the bulb was so huge that it split apart as it continued to grow. Rest assured that this split-apart is a perfectly wonderful bulb, it just looks different from other bulbs. Many times, with the larger Fritillaria bulbs, you might find a beautiful bulb with a hole in the top. Again, this is where the woody stem of the Fritillaria came out of the bulb after it bloomed and died back in the spring. It’s all good, all natural. Some people plant the bulbs with a hole in the top at an angle to prevent water collection. We don’t know if that really makes any difference since water flows in all directions underground.
However, if you find a Fritillaria bulb with a discolored spot that is soft and you can push your finger into it, please call us. This rarely happens, but if it does, let us know and we will take care of it. That is not a good thing.
Many Fritillaria bulbs smell skunky. That is normal and a good thing since it helps repel rodents.
Bulb Size Each Fritillaria variety makes its own special top size bulb. Some are as small as 5 centimeters, while others are 20 centimeters and up!
If you find that one bag of Fritillaria bulbs contains larger and smaller bulbs, it is a glass half full or half empty issue. Each of the bulbs is, at a minimum, the top size specified for that variety. They are sized on conveyor belts in the Netherlands that have holes the centimeter size just below the top size measurement. Smaller bulbs fall through these holes and are not included in our stock. All of the larger bulbs are included in our stock, and, as a result, there can be size variation. But it is definitely a glass half full! (If any variety in any season produces a smaller top size bulb than expected, we note it on our website. If a price change occurs as a result, we post the new price and make an adjustment on every order.)
Bulb Storage Before Planting After you’ve received your order and inspected it, keep the exterior carton and the inner boxes open to give the bulbs some air. All bulbs love good air circulation. Store them in a cool, dry place with low humidity, away from heat, frost and strong sunlight at about 50°F to 70°F. Never put flower bulbs in the freezer! Poor storage conditions could cause bulbs to dry out, or to become moldy.
Again, Fritillaria bulbs really don’t like being out of the soil. It is best to plant them as soon as you can after receiving them.
Select and Prepare the Planting Site All Fritillaria require rich, well-draining and neutral pH soil. The best soil is a sandy loam. For clay soil, break up the clay about a foot deeper than the planting depth of your bulbs and amend the bed with sand, peat moss and/or well-aged, neutral pH compost. For excessively sandy soil, amend the bed with peat moss, aged leaf compost and/or well-aged, neutral pH compost.
Please do not ever add horse manure, chicken droppings, mushroom compost, other hot manure or immature compost to your flower bulb beds. If you would like to add compost you’ve made yourself, please make sure that it is completely decomposed, healthy and neutral pH. Partially decomposed compost can spread fungal disease, such as botrytis blight, and nasty pests. What is good for vegetables is not necessarily good for flower bulbs.
Fritillaria thrive in filtered to partial sunlight. Fritillaria meleagris prefers cooler soil with a bit of moisture in it.
Easy to Plant Plant the large Fritillaria bulbs 6″ to 7″ deep and 8″ to 10″ apart. Plant the smaller Fritillaria bulbs 5″ to 6″ deep and 5″ to 6″ apart. They are easy to plant and are low maintenance. Well ship you the bulbs in time for planting in your garden in the fall, once the ground has chilled down to about 55°F, after about two weeks of sweater weather when night time temperatures have hovered in the 40s. Again, it is best to plant Fritillaria bulbs as soon as you receive them because they don’t like being out of the soil. If they are planted too late, root system growth could be hampered. Immature, underdeveloped root systems could result in more foliage than flowers.
Please do not put anything in the bottom of hole that you’ve dug for the bulbs. Even if you think it is good for the bulb, it could cause root burn. Nestle the bulb into its hole, fill in the hole with soil to the level of the bed, and tamp down the soil lightly, making sure that individual holes are no longer apparent and that the garden bed surface is level. This will help to prevent water from filling up any of the individual planting holes. All flower bulbs hate to get wet feet.
Fertilizing Never put anything, including fertilizer, in the bottom of each bulb planting hole. To do so is to run the risk of root burn. Plant the bulbs to the proper depth and spacing, tamp down the soil and broadcast a 5-10-5 or 4-10-6 granular organic fertilizer over the surface of the bed as if you were feeding the birds.
While all flower bulbs are nature’s perfect little packages and will bloom beautifully the first year, we recommend broadcasting fertilizer three times a year for all perennial and naturalizing flower bulbs. First at the time of fall planting to help grow the roots, second when the sprouts emerge in the spring to help nourish the foliage and flower, and finally, when the flowers start to die back to help feed the bulb itself. Bone meal is incomplete nutritionally and can attract animals to some varieties of bulbs (like Crocus or Tulips).
Do Not Plant Fritillaria in Exterior Containers or Raised Beds Flower bulbs should never be planted in outdoor containers, window boxes or raised beds where bulbs experience temperature spiking and repeated cycles of freezing and thawing. This results in root growth failure, root system destruction, frozen bulbs and/or bulb rot from poor water drainage. Flower bulbs must have a consistent cold winter temperature with good water drainage in order to produce a mature root system that will permit foliage growth and flower production in the spring.
Bloom Times, Size and Color The bloom time listed for each variety is for horticultural zone 5 in normal spring conditions. The warmer the horticultural zone, the earlier flower bulbs will bloom. The colder the horticultural zone, the later flower bulbs will bloom in the spring.
Flower bulbs do everything in response to temperature, sunlight and site conditions. Bloom times, heights and colors are approximations affected by temperature and site conditions regardless of the calendar date. If it is a warm spring, bulbs will bloom earlier. If it is a cold spring, bulbs will bloom later. If it is a long cool spring, followed by rapid warming, you may find odd bedfellows: earlier blooming Galanthus flowering right along side later blooming Crocus, Species Tulips and Narcissi. Each spring can offer a different sort of garden surprise party.
In the event of a mild winter or a warmer-than-usual spring, flower bulbs that have emergent stalks with set buds may bloom early, small and short, although they will likely grow taller and larger as temperatures moderate. Temperature spikes can also affect mature root development, the actual form of the flower or the process of flower color maturation.
Spring Care Once Fritillaria bloom and start to die back, make sure to keep the foliage going until it dies back naturally. A maximum period of photosynthesis allows the bulbs to regenerate for the future. Once the foliage is completely yellowed or browned out, remove it from the garden.
Forcing While most Fritillaria are not usually recommended for forcing over the winter, Fritillaria meleagris and meleagris alba are known to be good forcers.
In general, to force Fritillaria, one would pot the bulbs in mid-October and prechill them at a consistent, dark 38°F to 45°F with moderate watering for six to eight weeks. At the end of the precooling period, bring the pots out of refrigeration into progressively stronger sunlight with moderate watering. They usually bloom around four weeks later. Once Fritillaria bulbs are forced, their vitality is spent and the bulbs may be discarded.
Trouble Shooting If Fritillaria are yielding more foliage than flowers, it normally indicates a root system issue. A mature planting may need to be dug up in the fall, and transplanted to the original depth and spacing after carefully separating the bulbs that may have been strangling themselves. Sometimes, the larger Fritillaria bulbs grow to the point that they split apart at the area where the woody stem has separated itself from the bulb. It can take years for each split-apart bulb to grow to the size whereby it would fully flower again. Please do keep the foliage growing and dying back naturally during this time. Again, Fritillaria are a bit more finicky than the average bulb. If they are planted in marginally hardy horticultural zones, they may complain by not staging return performances. ↑ Back to Top
How to Plant FRITILLARIA BULBS Correctly for a GUARANTEED Spring Display & Annual Re-Growth
FAQ
How do I plant Fritillaria bulbs?
Pick a spot in your garden that has well-draining soil and gets full sun or partial shade. Plant the fritillaria bulbs about 3-6” deep and 4-12” apart, depending on the variety, and place them in the soil with their pointy ends up. Water well once and wait for spring.
Will Fritillaria multiply?
In fertile, moist, but well-drained soil, snake’s head fritillaria will usually multiply and come back to bloom again each spring. To encourage these bulbs to perennialize, fertilize the plants either before they bloom or immediately afterwards.
Where is the best place to plant Fritillaria bulbs?
Fritillaria planting basics
Like most bulbs, fritillaries like a well-drained, well-composted soil and a sunny or lightly shaded position, but Snakes’ Heads don’t mind wet conditions. Grouping your bulbs helps them to show off to the best effect, even when you prefer the mixed flower bed, country garden look.
Which way up do you plant Fritillaria imperialis bulbs?
- Borders.
- Dig a hole in well-drained, prepared soil that’s wide enough to fit the bulb comfortably, around 5cm deep. …
- Pop each bulb into their holes, pointed side up.
- Cover with soil and pat down. …
- Containers.
- Pick a pot and fill it with any multi-purpose compost about halfway.
How do you plant Fritillaria imperialis?
Check the growing requirements of your chosen Fritillaria species carefully. Bulbs should be planted in September and October. Plant the large bulbs of Fritillaria imperialis deeply to ensure flowering – around 30cm below the surface. Follow some bulb planting tips from Monty Don. Allow the foliage to die down completely after flowering.
How deep do you plant Fritillaria bulbs?
Fritillaria bulbs don’t develop hard exteriors like many other bulbs. Plant fritillaria 4-6” deep and about a foot apart. Fritillaria bulbs have a hole in the top, so to avoid having this hole collect water and encourage bulb rot, plant the bulbs on their sides. Where is the best place to plant Fritillaria? Planting.
Can Fritillaria bulbs be planted outside?
Fritillaria bulbs can be planted directly outside in borders or patio containers. — If you have a heavy soil or soil with a high clay content, it is a good idea to incorporate plenty of compost and some grit or sand prior to planting to aid drainage. — If planting in containers, we recommend using peat-free multipurpose compost.
How do you grow Fritillaria?
Plant fritillaries at least 4 times the height of the bulb. The soil should be deeply prepared so that the bulbs sit in well-drained soil. Plant Fritillaria in full sun or part shade. Grow Fritillaria in humus-rich, well-drained soil. Plant bulbs as soon as available in fall usually late summer or early fall so they don’t dry out.
When should you plant Fritillaria bulbs?
These plants are great for containers or outdoor plantings but will not thrive in soggy soil or standing water. Fritillaria bulbs should be planted sometime between late summer and early fall, giving the bulbs time to start rooting before the soil cools. Roots will develop in the fall, with foliage and flowers forming in the spring.
Should Fritillaria be planted in a container?
Container planting is not recommended as Fritillaria prefer to be left undisturbed for years. For spring blooms, Fritillaria bulbs must be planted in the fall, typically: This gives the bulbs time to establish roots before winter dormancy. Proper planting depth and spacing is important for the health and performance of your Fritillaria bulbs: