Garlic has been used as both food and medicine since at least the 25th century BCE, around the time that the pyramids were being constructed at Giza, Egypt. In his Ecologues, Virgil writes all about garlic being consumed by ancient Greek and Roman soldiers, and it is was grown in England by the mid-16th century. This is curious given the modern English attitude toward garlic. As late as 1997, Dr. D.G. Hessayon warned in his bestselling book, The Vegetable & Herb Expert:
Garlic is a perennial member of the onion family, Alliaceae, and is closely related to leeks, onions, shallots, and chives. All of these plants send up hollow, tubular (sometimes flattened) leaves from a bulb that grows below the ground. The leaves are followed by a flower stalk (scape), and then by the flower itself. Garlic may also produce “bulbils” – tiny bulbs that may begin to sprout, on the flower head. All parts of the garlic plant are edible, but the bulb is the most prized and useful in the kitchen.
The garlic bulb (or “head”) is an organ the plant uses to store food during adverse weather or over winter, when the leaves cannot photosynthesize. It is divided into numerous fleshy cloves, each wrapped in a papery husk, which should be removed prior to eating. Each clove, if planted in early spring or autumn, will produce a new head. If left to its own devices, garlic will eventually form a small clump as its bulbs spread over the years.
Softneck garlic is easy to grow in mild climates. Choose the hardneck varieties for areas where winters are severe. Softneck usually produces smaller, more numerous cloves per head, and it stores particularly well. Storing garlic is all about keeping it relatively warm and dry. This encourages the cloves to stay dormant, and prevents them from sprouting.
Garlic is one of the most universally accepted culinary ingredients, appreciated around the world for its pungent flavour and its incredible versatility in complementing meat, vegetables, breads, and eggs. It is grown commercially all over the world, notably in China, where over 12 million tons are produced each year.
Aside from its diverse uses in the kitchen, garlic has long been appreciated as a medicine. It is known to have antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-fungal properties, but extensive scientific studies have shown conflicting results in humans. Garlic appears to play a role in reducing the accumulation of certain types of cholesterol, as well as regulating blood sugar levels in humans, but the actual processes are not well understood. In traditional herbal medicine, garlic has been used to fight parasites, prevent the common cold, and treat respiratory complaints. Rats fed on high protein diets supplemented with garlic showed increased levels of testosterone.
Eating garlic, of course, also causes bad breath. This fact did not escape early physicians, including Culpepper: “The offensiveness of the breath of him that hath eaten Garlick, will lead you by the nose to the knowledge thereof.” In Islamic tradition, eating garlic prior to attending the mosque is viewed as inappropriate. The odour of garlic (caused by complex sulphur compounds) may explain why it was held in such high regard in central European folklore as a ward against demons, werewolves, and vampires – and it really was used for this purpose, hung in the house, or rubbed around windows, chimneys, and keyholes.
However it is eaten, garlic is high in protein, vitamin C, potassium, calcium, and phosphorus, as well as other beneficial nutrients. It can be eaten raw, cooked, preserved in oil, wine, or vinegar, and it forms a base for countless sauces and dips (hummus, pesto, aioli, vinaigrette, to name a few) which can then be kept fresh for days if refrigerated. Dried garlic can also be powdered and kept in an airtight container for up to a year or more. If substituting powdered garlic for fresh, 1/8 teaspoon = 1 fresh clove.
Garlic festivals are popular across Canada and around the world. Since 1999, the South Cariboo Garlic Festival has been held in 100 Mile House, B.C. The end of August sees a judged garlic cook-off, live music, craft fair, and much other garlic-related mayhem.
Garlic is a wonderful vegetable to grow in your garden. The flavor of homegrown garlic is far superior to store-bought varieties. With the right soil preparation and planting techniques you can have a bountiful harvest of delicious garlic bulbs. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about getting your garlic beds ready for planting.
Why Grow Your Own Garlic?
There are many great reasons to grow your own garlic
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Incredible flavor – Fresh garlic has a complex, robust flavor that is lost when commercially grown. Homegrown garlic tastes amazing.
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Ideal for storage – Properly cured garlic bulbs can be stored for 6-8 months after harvest. This provides garlic year-round.
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Health benefits – Garlic contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds that support health.
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Pest control – The sulfur compounds in garlic naturally deter pests like aphids, mites, and fungus gnats.
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Satisfaction – Growing your own food is incredibly rewarding.
When to Prepare Garlic Beds
The ideal time to prep your soil for planting garlic is 4-6 weeks before your expected first fall frost. This gives the garlic cloves time to establish roots before winter dormancy.
For most regions, late September through October is the best window for garlic bed preparation. If planting must be delayed, prepare the beds as soon as possible in fall.
Selecting the Right Planting Site
When choosing where to plant garlic, pick a location that receives full sun – at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Morning sun is key to drying morning dew off the leaves and stems.
Garlic thrives in sunny spots, resulting in larger bulbs. Insufficient sunlight can lead to stunted, undersized garlic. South-facing areas near walls or buildings are great because they provide extra warmth.
The Importance of Proper Drainage
Proper drainage is absolutely crucial for growing healthy garlic. Excess moisture and soggy soil cause garlic bulbs to rot.
Test drainage by digging 12 inches deep and filling the hole with water. If water drains completely within an hour, drainage is adequate. If water remains for several hours, drainage is poor.
To improve drainage:
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Incorporate compost to loosen heavy soils and retain moisture in sandy soils. Compost also nourishes plants and beneficial microbes.
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Create raised planting beds at least 6 inches high to elevate garlic roots above excess moisture.
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Plant garlic in mounded rows around 6 inches high to facilitate drainage.
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Avoid low-lying areas where water collects.
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Grow garlic in containers with drainage holes. This allows full control over soil quality and drainage.
Preparing Garden Soil
After choosing a site, preparing existing soil is the next crucial step:
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Remove weeds, spent crops, and plant debris. Weed removal is vital to eliminate competition for nutrients.
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Loosen the top 12 inches of soil with a spading fork or tiller to eliminate compacted layers. This allows garlic roots to penetrate deeply.
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Incorporate 2-4 inches of aged compost, rotted manure, peat moss, or other organic materials. This improves nutrients, moisture retention, and drainage.
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Test soil pH, which should be 6.0-7.0 for optimal garlic growth. Adjust pH if needed with lime (to raise) or sulfur (to lower).
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Mix in an all-purpose organic fertilizer per label instructions. This gives garlic the nutrients it requires for vigorous growth.
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Shape prepared soil into raised beds or rows. Beds should be at least 6 inches high and 12-24 inches wide.
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Water beds thoroughly to moisten and settle the soil before planting garlic cloves. Consistent moisture is key for establishing roots.
Planting Garlic Sets vs. Seeds
There are two methods for starting garlic:
Garlic sets – Sets are pre-formed bulbs broken into individual cloves for planting. This is the easiest, most foolproof method. Buy fresh sets each season for best results.
Garlic seeds – These are the small bulbils that sometimes grow on garlic scapes. Bulbils take 2 years to form mature bulbs, requiring patience. Start bulbils in containers before transplanting into garden beds.
Garlic sets are recommended, especially for beginners. Sets readily adapt to local conditions and produce bulbs in one season.
Companion Planting with Garlic
The strong aroma of garlic can deter certain insects and animals. Interplanting garlic with other veggies utilizes these natural pest-fighting qualities:
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Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants – Repels aphids, spider mites, cabbage loopers
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Carrots, lettuces – Confuses carrot flies
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Cucumbers, squash, pumpkins – Repels cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants
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Basil, parsley, chamomile – Masks scent of vegetables from pests
Avoid planting garlic near peas and beans, as the flavor can negatively impact their growth.
Planting Garlic Sets
Follow these guidelines when planting garlic sets:
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Timing – Plant 4-6 weeks before expected first fall frost
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Spacing – Plant cloves 4-6 inches apart in all directions
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Depth – Plant cloves 2-3 inches deep with pointed tips facing up
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Orientation – Place cloves root-side down and tips pointing up
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Pressure – Firmly press each clove into the soil to prevent floating
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Watering – Water thoroughly after planting and keep soil moist until sprouting
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Mulching – Apply 4-6 inches of mulch over beds after planting to insulate for winter
Ongoing Garlic Bed Care
Caring for garlic beds continues after planting:
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Weed control – Use mulch to suppress weeds. Hand pull any weeds to eliminate competition.
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Watering – Garlic needs 1-2 inches of water weekly. More during dry or hot periods.
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Fertilizing – Side dress with nitrogen fertilizer in early spring to stimulate growth.
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Pest management – Watch for leek moth, thrips, onion maggot. Remove by hand or use insecticidal soap.
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Harvesting – Dig up garlic heads in mid-summer when 3-5 bottom leaves turn brown. Cure bulbs before storing.
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Crop rotation – Rotate garlic beds each year to prevent disease buildup.
With attentive care all season long, your garlic will reach its full potential.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with proper preparation, garlic can still run into issues:
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Poor emergence – Ensure adequate soil moisture. Replant cloves in spring if needed.
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Stunted plants – May indicate insufficient sunlight, nutrients, or drainage. Amend soil as required.
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Rotting bulbs – Improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Allow soil to dry between waterings.
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Pest damage – Inspect plants often and remove pests manually. Use insecticidal soap only if infestation is severe.
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Small bulbs – Harvest on time before bulbs divide. Improve sun exposure and soil nutrition.
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Fungal diseases – Improve air flow. Rotate planting sites. Remove and destroy infected plants promptly.
With attentive care and quick corrections, potential problems can be managed before they worsen.
Key Tips for Garlic Success
Follow these best practices when prepping beds and growing garlic:
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Test drainage and amend soil with compost before planting
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Space cloves 4-6 inches apart to allow for adequate size
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Use the largest, healthiest bulbs when selecting garlic sets
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Mulch beds well to regulate soil temperature and moisture
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Monitor regularly for pests and diseases. Remove affected plants promptly.
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Allow soil to dry out between waterings to prevent bulb rot
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Side dress with nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate vigorous foliage growth
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Harvest bulbs on time based on leaf color to maximize size
With proper soil preparation and attentive planting and care, you’ll be rewarded with a bountiful garlic harvest. Consider ordering high-quality garlic seeds online to give your crop a head start. Growing garlic is fun, easy, and tasty!
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time to plant garlic?
Early fall is best, around 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost. This allows roots to establish before winter.
How should I prepare soil for planting garlic?
Choose well-drained soil and amend with compost or manure. Fertilize with a balanced organic fertilizer. Create raised beds for improved drainage.
Should garlic cloves be planted individually or in clusters?
Separate cloves and plant individually, 2 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart. Larger cloves produce bigger bulbs.
What are the benefits of raised beds for garlic?
Raised beds improve drainage, soil quality, and aeration. They warm earlier in spring, boosting growth and yields.
How do I care for garlic during the growing season?
Keep beds weed-free and water regularly. Fertilize lightly with a nitrogen source in early spring. Monitor for pests and diseases.
When is garlic typically ready to harvest?
Harvest when the lower 3-5 leaves turn yellow and start drying out. This is usually in mid-late summer.
What plants pair well with garlic?
Good companions are tomatoes, peppers, chamomile, carrots, and lettuce. Avoid planting near beans and peas.
How can I prevent diseases in my garlic plants?
Improve drainage. Rotate planting sites each year. Remove any infected plants promptly. Avoid overcrowding.
What should I do with garlic scapes?
Scapes can be chopped and used like garlic in cooking. Or use them as a garnish. Removing them redirects energy to the bulbs.
Can I plant grocery store bought garlic?
Yes, as long as the heads appear healthy and disease-free. But consider purchasing sets specifically for planting.
How far apart should I space garlic cloves when planting?
Space cloves 4-6 inches apart to allow adequate room for growth and bulb sizing. Closer spacing can restrict size.
How to Grow Garlic:
Difficulty: Easy. Garlic is not suited for growing in containers. This can be done, but it’s better in the ground, or possibly in raised beds.
Timing: Plant cloves from September to the end of November. There is a brief window at the beginning of March when you can plant for a fall harvest, but in this climate garlic performs better if overwintered.
Sowing: Separate the cloves and set each one, pointed end up, 10-15cm (4-6”) apart and with the tip of the clove 2-5cm (1-2”) deep. Don’t skin the cloves! Use deeper planting if rain or frost may expose the cloves, and shallower planting if using mulch or planting into heavy soil. The largest cloves will make the largest bulbs.
Soil: Rich, well drained soil. Dig well, add compost (lots of it if your soil is heavy) and do not compact it by stepping on it. Lime the soil several weeks before planting if the pH is lower than 6.0.
Growing: Fertilize when spring growth starts. Water as needed and keep weeded. Cut flower stalks to keep energy in the bulb. If individual cloves haven’t formed, either eat the clove or replant and it will bulb next year.
Harvest: When the tops begin to dry, pull and air-dry like onions. Some growers recommend waiting until 75% of the plant has dried up before pulling, and others say the key is to pull when each plant is down to 6 green leaves. More on When to Harvest Garlic.
Storage: Store in a room temperature, dry environment. Moisture, heat, or excessive cold may provoke sprouting.
Pests & Disease: Many growers have been hit with White Rot that causes black spots and decay on the bulbs. It is easily spread in infected soil and water and is very persistent in the soil. Flooding the bed for 4 weeks in the spring may kill it. Best way to avoid it is not to leave decaying alliums in the ground and by using a strict 4-year rotation.
Companion Planting: Planting garlic near roses will help to repel aphids. Because of its sulphur compounds, it may also help repel whiteflies, Japanese beetles, root maggots, carrot rust fly, and other pests. Garlic, made into a tea, or spray, will act as a systemic pesticide, drawing up into the cells of the plants. It’s a good companion for beets, Brassicas, celery, lettuce, potatoes, strawberries, and tomatoes. Avoid planting it near peas or beans of any kind. More on Companion Planting.