Growing Bleeding Hearts Indoors: A Complete Guide to Keeping These Romantic Plants Happy in Your Home

The Bleeding Heart plant (Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly Dicentra spectabilis) is a spring-blooming perennial known for its charming, heart-shaped flowers that dangle from arching stems.

Native to woodland areas of Asia (Siberia, China, Korea, and Japan), it thrives in cool, shady environments​​. In the wild or garden, it typically grows 1–3 feet tall and wide, forming a bushy clump of deeply lobed, fern-like green leaves​​.

During spring, it produces dozens of pink or white pendant flowers with an inner petal that looks like a “drop” – giving the plant its common name (it appears as if a “bleeding heart”)​​.

Several varieties and cultivars exist, including the classic pink-and-white old-fashioned bleeding heart, a pure white form often called ‘Alba’ (white flowers)​, ‘Gold Heart’ (golden foliage with pink flowers)​, and ‘Valentine’ (deep red flowers)​​.

All share similar care needs. Bleeding hearts belong to the poppy family (Papaveraceae) and contain mild toxins (isoquinoline alkaloids), so avoid ingesting any part of the plant and keep it out of reach of curious pets or children​.

While bleeding hearts are traditionally outdoor shade-garden plants, they can be grown successfully indoors in containers. In fact, their preference for partial to full shade means they don’t require intense sunlight, which is a bonus for indoor growing​.

Indoors, the plant may not get quite as large as in the garden, but it will still need some space (it can reach about 1–2+ feet in height and spread in a pot)​.

With the right potting mix, light, and care, a bleeding heart can live for many years in your home, gracing you with its lovely spring blooms. Just remember that this plant has a natural growth cycle: it blooms in spring, then often goes dormant (dies back) for a period, before regrowing again next season​​.

Don’t worry – this dormancy is normal, and we’ll cover how to manage it indoors. Overall, bleeding hearts are beginner-friendly as long as you provide the conditions they enjoy and pay attention to their seasonal needs. Let’s dive into the detailed care aspects below.

Pruning, Cleaning, and Grooming

Bleeding hearts require minimal pruning, but a bit of grooming will keep the plant healthy and tidy. Here’s what to do:

• After Bloom Deadheading. Once the plant has finished flowering (the pink/white hearts have all bloomed and maybe started to drop), you can deadhead by snipping off the spent flower stems. This is optional – it won’t typically force a rebloom (bleeding hearts usually have one main bloom flush per year), but it can tidy the plant’s appearance and direct the plant’s energy back to its foliage and roots. Use clean scissors or pruning snips to cut the thin flower stalks back to where they join the main stem. If you like the look of the dangling heart seed pods or you want the plant to possibly self-seed, you can leave a few spent flowers on. Indoors, self-seeding isn’t much of a concern unless you have multiple pots, but deadheading is mainly aesthetic here.
• Foliage Pruning (End of Season). The most important pruning task is removing the yellowed/dry foliage when the plant goes dormant. As mentioned, let the leaves yellow naturally; once they are mostly yellow or brown and no longer feeding the plant, you can cut the stems back. Cut all the way down to the base of the plant (soil level)​ or just above it. The stems are fleshy; they should cut easily. Removing the dead foliage prevents rot and pests from harboring in the decaying material. It also makes the pot look neater during the dormant period. If a stem is only partially yellow (still half green), wait a bit longer if possible. But if some foliage is clearly diseased (blackened or moldy), do remove those parts immediately, even if still green, to prevent spread of disease.
• In-Season Grooming. During the growing season, periodically check for any yellowing leaves or bits of foliage that might appear unhealthy. It’s normal for a few inner leaves to age and yellow over time; you can gently pluck those off or trim them. This improves airflow and appearance. Also remove any leaves that have significant pest damage or spots (and address the pest/fungus issue separately). Wiping the dust off the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth can help the plant absorb light more effectively (household dust can block light over time) and also lets you inspect the plant closely for early signs of pests.
• Cleaning the Area. As the plant drops leaves or if any soil spills when watering, keep the area around the pot clean. Old fallen leaves can harbor fungus or insects, so dispose of debris. Clean, airy conditions help prevent problems.

Remember to always use clean, sharp pruning shears or scissors when cutting the plant. If you’ve used the tool on any other plant that had disease or pests, sterilize it with isopropyl alcohol or a diluted bleach solution before pruning your bleeding heart.

This prevents inadvertent spread of issues. Fortunately, bleeding hearts don’t require shaping or frequent trims – just these maintenance tasks.

One more note: The bleeding heart has fragile stems, so handle the plant gently when moving or rotating it. If a stem accidentally snaps (this can happen if it’s bumped), simply trim it off. The plant will usually be fine; it might bleed a little sap at the break, but that will heal.

You can avoid a lot of breakage by giving the plant enough space and not crowding it among other objects.

Some indoor growers use a small support ring or stake for larger bleeding heart plants – a thin hoop or a couple of stakes with twine can prop up heavy flowering stems to prevent them from flopping or breaking under their own weight (particularly if the plant gets tall and full of flowers).

This is optional and mostly needed if your plant grows very large or if it’s in a breezy spot (indoor fans, etc., could cause some movement).

Overall, keep your bleeding heart clean and trimmed of dead material. This not only makes it look nicer but also keeps it healthy by preventing rot and pest habitats.

Propagation (Making New Bleeding Heart Plants)

If you’d like to create more bleeding heart plants or rejuvenate an older one, you can propagate it through division or cuttings (or even seeds, but we’ll focus on division and cuttings as requested). Both methods are suitable for Lamprocapnos spectabilis and can be done by beginners with a bit of care.

Division is the easiest and most common way to propagate a bleeding heart. It involves splitting an established plant’s root clump into two or more sections, each of which can grow into a new plant.

Division not only creates new plants but also helps an older potted bleeding heart by giving its roots more room (preventing it from becoming root-bound and reinvigorating its growth).

Bleeding hearts tend to form larger clumps over a couple of years, so dividing every 2–3 years is often recommended​.

When to divide: The best times to divide a bleeding heart are either in early spring (just as new growth begins to peek out) or in early fall (after the plant’s foliage has died back)​​. If you are growing it indoors, you can time it with its dormancy.

For example, you might remove it from its pot and divide in late winter before it starts actively growing (when you’re about to bring it out of dormancy), or right after it has gone dormant and been cut back in the fall.

Early spring is generally preferred because the plant is about to grow vigorously and will recover faster. Avoid dividing while it’s in full leaf and flowering, as that can stress the plant more.

How to divide:

• Unpot the Plant. Carefully remove the bleeding heart from its pot. If it’s large, you may need to gently tip the pot and ease the root ball out. You might see thick roots circling around – be as gentle as possible to minimize breakage, but some broken roots are inevitable and usually fine.
• Separate the Roots. Once out, inspect the root clump. You should see multiple “crowns” or growing points, especially if it’s a big clump – these look like thick buds or pink nubs where stems had emerged. Decide how many divisions you want (typically splitting one plant into 2 or 3 sections is manageable). Using your hands, or a clean sharp knife/spade, divide the root mass. Try to ensure each division has at least one or two strong buds/eyes and a good section of roots attached​. Sometimes you can pull sections apart naturally along where the plant seems to have formed offsets; other times you may cut directly. If cutting, a straight cut through the root ball is fine.
• Trim and Prep. If any roots are excessively long or damaged, you can trim them slightly. Also, cut off any remaining old stems or foliage. You essentially have bare-root pieces now.
• Replant the Divisions. Immediately plant each division into a pot (or into the ground if you were moving some outside). Use fresh potting mix with the same composition we described earlier (well-draining, rich, etc.). Choose pot sizes appropriate for each division (they might not need as large a pot as the original if you split it; e.g., if one plant was in a 12-inch pot and you split it in half, each half might go into an 8–10 inch pot). Plant each division so that its crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface (just covered)​ – the buds can be just peeking at or slightly under the surface.
• Water and Wait. Water the newly potted divisions thoroughly to settle soil around the roots. Keep them in a shaded, cool area initially (no intense sun) and keep the soil lightly moist consistently for the next few weeks as they establish. They may not sprout new top growth immediately if you did this in fall – in that case, they’ll remain dormant until the next spring. If you divided in spring, you should see new shoots continue growing pretty quickly. The plant might be a bit stunned the first year after division – perhaps smaller or fewer blooms – but by the next growth cycle it will be fully recovered.

Tip: Division is best done on a healthy, robust plant. Don’t try to divide a very young plant (wait at least until it’s a couple years old or has a sizable root mass) or a plant that is weak or diseased.

Also, after dividing, you can give the divisions a dose of diluted fertilizer once you see active growth, to help them along (but not too strong, since the fresh root cuts can be sensitive). Dividing should ideally be done infrequently – each plant likes some time to settle and expand.

Propagating bleeding hearts from stem cuttings is another way to get new plants. It can be surprisingly successful if done correctly, though it requires a bit more patience and care than division. You’ll essentially be cloning the plant from pieces of its stems.

When to take cuttings: The optimal time to take softwood cuttings of bleeding heart is right after the plant has finished flowering, when there is fresh new growth that’s not too woody​. Typically, this means late spring to early summer, when stems are still green and pliable.

Stems should be mature enough to not be flimsy, but young enough to bend and not snap (that’s what “softwood” implies). Early morning is a great time to take cuttings because the plant is well-hydrated then​.

How to take and root cuttings:

• Prepare Pot and Medium. Get a small pot or a tray ready with a well-draining rooting medium. A good mix is half peat moss (or coco coir) and half perlite or coarse sand​. This mixture will hold some moisture but stay airy. Moisten the mix so it’s damp but not soggy, and fill your pot. Ensure the pot has drainage. You can even pre-insert a few holes with a pencil where cuttings will go, to avoid stressing them later.
• Select Cuttings: Using a clean, sharp scissors or pruners, cut healthy new shoots about 3 to 5 inches (8–13 cm) long​. Choose stems that do not have flower buds (or if they do, snip off the buds, as those focus energy away from rooting). A cutting should have a couple of leaf nodes (points where leaves attach). Cut just below a node, because that’s where roots are likely to form.
• Strip Lower Leaves. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting​, leaving maybe one or two pairs of leaves at the top. This reduces water loss and focuses the cutting on root development.
• Optional – Dip in Rooting Hormone. If you have rooting hormone powder or gel, dip the cut end of the cutting into the hormone​. Tap off any excess. This hormone can speed up rooting and increase success, but if you don’t have it, you can still succeed without it.
• Insert Cuttings. Place the cutting into the prepared hole in your potting mix (or gently push it into the mix) about 1–2 inches deep, enough to cover the part where you removed leaves. Firm the mix around it so it stands upright. You can place multiple cuttings in one pot if there’s space, just keep some separation so their leaves aren’t touching (to prevent rot)​.
• Create Humidity Dome. Cuttings root best in a humid environment. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or plastic dome to trap humidity, creating a mini-greenhouse​. It’s helpful to use sticks, straws, or wire hoops to hold the plastic up off the leaves so it doesn’t touch them​. Ensure some air can circulate – you can poke a couple of small holes in the plastic or open it briefly every day. If too much condensation builds up (water dripping inside), vent it a bit​, because overly wet conditions can cause the cuttings to rot.
• Light and Temperature. Place the pot in bright, indirect light, not direct sun (which can overheat the cuttings under the plastic)​. An indoor spot with good light but no direct sun is ideal, or use a fluorescent light a little distance away. Maintain a warm temperature of about 65–75°F (18–24°C) for rooting​. Do not let it drop much below 60°F at night​, as cold can stall or kill the cuttings.
• Monitoring. Check the cuttings daily. The goal is to keep the medium moist but not soggy. You likely won’t need to water for a week or two if it’s sealed, but if it’s drying out, add a bit of water (spritzing the soil, not the leaves, is good). If you see any mold or rot, remove that cutting and ensure better ventilation. After about 1–2 weeks, gently tug one cutting – if you feel resistance, roots may be forming.
• Rooting Time.Usually, bleeding heart cuttings root in about 10 to 21 days under good conditions​. New leaf growth is a positive sign that rooting has occurred​. Once you clearly see new growth or roots poking out of drainage holes, it means success.
• Potting Up. Remove the plastic cover once the cuttings are rooted and acclimate them to normal humidity gradually (first a few hours without cover, then more each day). Then, transplant each rooted cutting into its own pot with regular potting mix​. Handle them gently, trying not to break the delicate new roots. Water them in their new pots and care for them as you would a young bleeding heart plant.

Not every cutting will take, so don’t be discouraged if you lose a couple. Take a few extra to be safe. Once potted, the new plants may remain small their first year and perhaps may not bloom until the following season – that’s normal, as they establish their roots.

Propagation by cuttings is a fun way to multiply a favored variety (since cuttings will be clones of the parent, they’ll have the same flower color, etc.). It’s also useful if you want to have indoor bleeding hearts that you eventually plant outside or give to friends.

Bonus: Bleeding hearts can also be grown from seed, but seeds need a cold stratification (chilling) period and can take longer to reach flowering, so cuttings and division are faster ways to get flowering-size plants​.

How to Grow & Care For Bleeding Heart | Perennial Garden

FAQ

Can you grow a bleeding heart as a houseplant?

Common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a spring-blooming herbaceous perennial that forms arching stems from rhizomatous roots. The plant is a fast grower that typically reaches 2 to 3 feet tall within around 60 days. Although it flourishes best outdoors, you can keep a bleeding heart plant indoors as well.

Do bleeding hearts come back every year?

What happens when you touch a bleeding heart flower?

A word of caution: Although bleeding hearts appear delicate and harmless, all parts of the plant are toxic to pets and humans if eaten. Touching them may cause skin irritation, so wear gloves as a precaution.

What is the best place to plant a bleeding heart?

Bleeding heart grows best in light shade, although it will tolerate full sun in moist and cool climates. In most locations plants prefer morning sun and afternoon shade. They also need well-drained soil and will rot if the soil remains too soggy.

Can bleeding heart grow indoors?

You can grow bleeding heart indoors and often with great success and ease, though the plant will likely grow faster and larger under optimal outdoor conditions. The bleeding heart plant likes partial to full shade, so you won’t need to be overly concerned about your windows providing direct sun.

How do you plant bleeding hearts?

Plant your bareroot Bleeding Hearts in fall, when the plants are dormant. Set your Bleeding Hearts up for success when you plant them by aerating the planting area and mixing in compost or other organic matter to help the soil hold moisture. If you’re planting in a container, use compost along with potting mix.

Can a bleeding heart grow in a garden?

Known as garden blooms, these heart-shaped flowers can thrive as houseplants Common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a spring-blooming herbaceous perennial that forms arching stems from rhizomatous roots. The plant is a fast grower that typically reaches 2 to 3 feet tall within around 60 days.