Can I Grow Hass Avocados in Florida? Everything You Need to Know

A medium (30 ft; 9.1 m) to large (65 ft; 19.8 m) tree (Figure 2), the avocado tree is classified as an evergreen, although some varieties lose their leaves for a short time before and during flowering. The tree canopy ranges from low, dense and symmetrical to upright and asymmetrical. Limbs are easily broken by strong winds or heavy crop loads.

Leaves are 3 to 16 inches (7.6 to 41.0 cm) in length and variable in shape (elliptic, oval, lanceolate) (Figure 3). They are often hairy (pubescent) and reddish when young, then become smooth, leathery, and dark green when mature.

The many-flowered lateral inflorescences (structures that hold the flowers) are borne in a pseudoterminal position (Figure 4). The central axis of the inflorescence terminates in a shoot. Flowers are perfect, yellowish-green, and 3/8 to 1/2 inch (1 to 1.3 cm) in diameter (Figure 5).

The fruit is a berry, consisting of a single large seed, surrounded by a buttery pulp (Figure 6). Florida avocado varieties contain 3 to 15% oil. The skin is variable in thickness and texture. Fruit color at maturity may be green, black, purple or reddish, depending on variety. Fruit shape ranges from spherical to pyriform, and the fruit weigh from a few ounces to 5 lbs (2.3 kg). The fruit does not generally ripen until it falls or is picked from the tree. In Florida, the fruit is considered sufficiently mature for harvest when it reaches a specified calendar date and weight or size. The specific dates, weights, and sizes used to determine maturity vary by variety.

Avocado flowers are bisexual, however, the female and male flower parts function at different times of the day. Varieties are classified into A and B types according to the time of day when the female and male flower parts become reproductively functional. New evidence indicates avocado flowers may be both self- and cross-pollinated under Florida conditions. Self-pollination occurs during the second flower opening when pollen from the anthers is transferred to the stigma of the female flower parts. Cross-pollination may occur when female and male flowers from A and B type varieties open simultaneously. Self-pollination appears to be primarily caused by wind, whereas cross-pollination is caused by large flying insects such as bees and wasps.

Varieties vary in the degree of self- or cross-pollination necessary for fruit set. Some varieties, such as Waldin, Lula, and Taylor fruit well when planted alone. Others, such as Pollock and Booth 8 (both B types) do not and it is probably advantageous to plant them with other varieties (A types) which bloom simultaneously to facilitate adequate pollination and fruit set. Before planting an avocado tree, homeowners should scout their neighborhood for other home landscapes with avocado trees. If other home landscapes possess avocado trees then most likely adequate pollination will occur by planting just one avocado tree, if no other avocado trees are within your immediate area, you may opt to plant two avocado trees, one an A-type, the other a B-type (see Table 2). This will help insure good pollination and fruit set.

Avocado varieties are classified in three groups, known as the West Indian, Guatemalan and Mexican “races”. West Indian avocados originated in the tropical lowland areas of southern Mexico and Central America whereas the Guatemalan and Mexican avocados originated in mid-altitude highlands in Guatemala and Mexico. The distinguishing characteristics of the three races is summarized in Table 1. In Florida, most early season varieties are West Indian types, whereas midseason and late varieties are mostly Guatemalan-West Indian hybrids or Guatemalan types and therefore have intermediate characters between the two races. Some characteristics of Florida avocado varieties are summarized in Table 2.

West Indian and some hybrid varieties are best adapted to a lowland tropical climate and relatively frost-free areas of the subtropics. Mexican varieties are more cold-tolerant and not well-adapted to lowland tropical conditions. Guatemalan x Mexican hybrids are generally more cold-tolerant than West Indian x Guatemalan hybrid varieties.

In general, avocados should be planted in the warmest areas of the State, i.e., along the southeast and southwest coasts of Florida. West Indian and some hybrid types are the least cold tolerant and do best only in areas that rarely experience freezing temperatures (Table 1). Varieties with little cold-tolerance include Donnie, Dupuis, Simmonds, Pollock, Nadir, Hardee, and Waldin. Other varieties such as Tonnage, Taylor, Lula, Kampong, Meya, and Brookslate are more cold tolerant and may be planted in areas that experience infrequent but below freezing temperatures (24°F–28°F). Moderately cold-tolerant types (25°F–30°F) include Beta, Choquette, Loretta, Booth 8, Hall, Monroe, and Reed. Mexican and Mexican hybrid varieties such as Brogdon, Ettinger, Gainesville, Mexicola, and Winter Mexican are even more cold-tolerant and may withstand temperatures in the low 20s. However, these varieties may be difficult to find in the nursery trade.

Most avocado varieties do not come true from seed (i.e., a seed will not render the same variety), so they must be propagated vegetatively (Figures 7 and 8). Cleft grafting is the preferred method of propagation in Florida, although veneer grafting is also used. Young, vigorously growing seedlings are used for rootstocks, and terminals of leafy shoots are used for scion material. Grafting is most successful during the cooler months from November through February or March, but can be done from June through March if plant material is available. Established trees may be top-worked by cleft or veneer grafting scions of the desired varieties on stumps of cut-back trees or by veneer grafting new shoots arising from stumped trees. Propagation by cuttings and air-layering has not been successful.

Typically, seedlings of Lula and Waldin are used as rootstocks in Florida because of their uniformity, vigor, and availability of seeds.

Less than 1% of the flowers on an avocado tree ultimately produce fruit. Some varieties set a large number of fruit, most of which drop (fall) during early summer, while others set fewer fruit but retain most of them to maturity. Varieties differ in productivity and in regularity of bearing, some producing a large crop only every other year. Trees that are under a good cultural program (i.e., fertilized and watered) have less of a tendency to alternately bear.

Grafted trees begin to produce after 3 to 4 years. In Florida, yields of mature trees average 2 to 3 bushels per year (110 to 165 lbs; 50 to 75 kg). However, with good management, considerably better production can be expected. Avocado varieties in Florida mature from June to March (Table 2). Planting more than one variety will prolong the avocado season from the home landscape.

Planting distances depend on soil type and fertility, current technology, and expertise of the homeowner. Avocado trees in the home landscape should be planted 23 to 30 feet or more (7.0 to 9.1 m) away from buildings and other trees. Trees planted too close to other trees or structures may not grow normally or produce much fruit due to shading.

Avocado trees do not tolerate flooding or poorly drained soils but are adapted to many types of well-drained soils. Continuously wet or flooded conditions often result in decreased growth and yields, nutrient deficiency symptoms, dieback, and sometimes tree death. Under these conditions, trees are highly susceptible to root infection by Phytophthora fungi.

Trees grow well and produce satisfactory yields in the sandy and limestone soils of Florida if not subjected to flooding or poor drainage. In the home landscape, select an area that does not flood. If there is a potential for excessively wet or flooded soil conditions plant on a large hill or mound made up of native soil, 2 to 4 ft high (0.6 to 1.2 m) by 4 to 6 ft diameter (1.2 to 1.8 m).

Planting an Avocado Tree

Properly planting an avocado tree is one of the most important steps in successfully establishing and growing a strong, productive tree. The first step is to choose a healthy nursery tree. Commonly, nursery avocado trees are grown in 3 gallon containers and these trees stand 2 to 4 ft from the soil media. Large trees in smaller containers should be avoided as the root system may be “root bound”. This means all the available space in the container has been filled with roots to the point that the tap root is growing along the edge of the container in a circular fashion. Root bound trees may not grow properly once planted in the ground. Inspect the tree for insect pests and diseases and inspect the trunk of the tree for wounds and constrictions. Select a healthy tree and water it regularly in preparation for planting in the ground.

In general, avocado trees should be planted in full sun for best growth and fruit production. Select a part of the landscape away from other trees, buildings and structures and powerlines. Remember avocado trees can become very large if not pruned to contain their size. Select the warmest area of the landscape that does not flood (or remain wet) after typical summer rainfall events.

Care of Avocado Trees in the Home Landscape

To promote growth and regular fruiting, avocado trees should be periodically fertilized and watered and insects, diseases, and weeds controlled on an as needed basis (Table 3).

In Florida, young trees should be fertilized every 1 to 2 months during the first year, beginning with 1/4 lb (114 g) of fertilizer and increasing to 1 lb (455 g) per tree (Table 4). Thereafter, 3 or 4 applications per year in amounts proportionate to the increasing size of the tree are sufficient but, not to exceed 20 lbs per tree per year.

Fertilizer mixtures containing 6 to 10% nitrogen, 6 to 10% available phosphorus petnoxide, 6 to 10% potash, and 4 to 6% magnesium give satisfactory results with young trees. For bearing trees potash should be increased to 9 to 15% and available phosphoric acid reduced to 2 to 4%. Examples of commonly available fertilizer mixes include 6-6-6-2 [6 (N)-6 (P2O5)-6 (K2O)-2 (Mg)] and 8-3-9-2 [8 (N)-3 (P2O5)-6 (K2O)-3 (Mg)].

From spring through summer, trees should receive 3 to 4 annual nutritional sprays of copper, zinc, manganese, and boron for the first 4 to 5 years. Thereafter, only zinc, manganese, and possibly boron applications are necessary. Avocado trees are susceptible to iron deficiency under alkaline and high pH soil conditions. Iron deficiency can be prevented or corrected by periodic soil applications during the late spring and summer of iron chelates formulated for alkaline and high soil pH conditions (Table 4).

Newly planted avocado trees should be watered at planting and every other day for the first week or so and then 1 to 2 times a week for the first couple of months. During prolonged dry periods (e.g., 5 or more days of little to no rainfall) newly planted and young avocado trees (first 3 years) should be well watered twice a week. Once the rainy season arrives, irrigation frequency may be reduced or stopped.

Once avocado trees are 4 or more years old irrigation will be beneficial to plant growth and crop yields during prolonged dry periods. The specific water requirements for mature trees have not been determined. However, as with other tree crops, the period from bloom and through fruit development is important and drought stress should be avoided at this time with periodic watering.

Many insect pests attack avocados, but they seldom limit fruit production significantly. Insect infestations are not predictable and control measures are justified only when large populations occur. Currently, the most important insect pests in Florida are:

• Avocado Looper (Epimecis detexta )
• Pyriform Scale (Protopulvinaria pyriformis )
• Dictyospermum Scale (Chrysomphalus dictyospermi )
• Avocado Red Mites (Oligonychus yothersi )
• Borers (e.g., Ambrosia beetles, Xylosandrus sp.)
• Avocado Lace Bugs (Acysta perseae )
• Red-banded Thrips (Selenothrips rubrocinctus ) (Figure 9)

Homeowners should contact their local UF/IFAS Extension office for recommended control measures.

Disease control for avocado trees in the home landscape is usually not warranted. The easiest method for avoiding disease problems is to grow scab resistant varieties, planting trees only in well drained soils, and monitoring the tree (leaves and fruit specially) during the year.

Successful control of foliar and fruit diseases caused by fungi requires that all susceptible parts of the plant be thoroughly coated with the fungicide before infection occurs. Sprays applied after infection (which usually occurs several days before the disease is evident) often have limited to no effect on disease development. Sprays must be re-applied as new tissues become exposed by growth and as spray residues are reduced by weathering. A successful program depends on:

• Use of the right amount of a recommended fungicide and adjuvant, if required.
• Timely applications before infection is most likely to occur.
• Thorough coverage of susceptible parts.

Homeowners should contact their local UF/IFAS Extension office for current control recommendations for the diseases discussed below.

Cercospora spot (Cercospora purpurea). Infection appears on fruits and leaves as small, angular, dark brown spots which coalesce to form irregular patches. These spots have a yellow halo. Fruit lesions are frequently the point of entry for other decay organisms, such as the anthracnose fungus. Infection usually occurs during the summer months. If Cercospora spot is a problem begin a spray program for Cercospora prevention about May 1st and continue until harvest.

Avocado scab (Sphaceloma perseae). The scab fungus readily infects young, succulent tissues of leaves, twigs and fruit. These tissues become resistant as they mature. Lesions appear as small, dark spots visible on both sides of the leaves. Spots on leaf veins, petioles and twigs are slightly raised, and oval to elongated. Severe infections distort and stunt leaves. Spots on fruits are dark, oval and raised and eventually coalesce to form cracked and corky areas which impair the appearance but not the internal quality of the fruit (Figure 10). Begin a spray program for scab prevention when bloom buds begin to swell and continue spraying until harvest. Many avocado varieties are resistant or moderately resistant to scab and no control is necessary. Some varietes such as Lula are very susceptible to scab and are not recommended for planting in the home landscape.

Anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporoides). Anthracnose infection is important only on fruits. Infections occur through lesions caused by other organisms such as scab and Cercospora spot, or mechanical injuries. The fungus does not develop in actively growing fruits but causes a rot as the fruit ripens. Fruit lesions start as circular brown to black spots which enlarge, become sunken and crack.

Avocado root rot (Phytophthora cinnamomi ). Trees in areas with poorly drained soils and/or which are subject to flooding are likely to be affected by this fungus. This is the most serious disease in most avocado producing areas of the world. Although many trees are infected with the fungus in Florida, the disease appears to be serious only if trees are subjected to flooded conditions. Leaves of infected trees may be pale green, wilted, or dead, and terminal branches die back in advanced stages of the disease. Feeder roots become darkened and decayed, and severely affected trees usually die.

Powdery mildew (Oidium sp.). Powdery mildew covers undersides of leaves with a white powdery growth. Later, the white mildew disappears leaving dark, reticulate markings, which appear from the upper side as yellowish areas. Usually not serious enough to require control measures, this disease is most prevalent during the dry season.

Sun-blotch (Caused by a viroid). Symptoms of infection include sunken yellow or whitish streaking or spotting and distortion of twigs, leaves, and fruit (Figure 11). It is transmitted through buds, seeds, and root-grafting of infected trees. There is no control for this disease, and infected trees should be destroyed. This disease is rare in Florida.

Algal Leaf Spot (Cephaleuros sp.). Symptoms appear first on upper leaf surfaces as green, yellowish-green, or rust-colored, roughly circular spots. This disease is most prevalent during summer and fall months.

Diplodia Stem-end Rot (Diplodia sp.). This rot disease begins at the stem end of the fruit and develops as the fruit softens. It is usually only a problem with immature fruit after harvest and can be prevented by harvesting only mature fruit.

Florida Hass Avocado

FAQ

Can Hass avocado trees grow in Florida?

Florida Hass is a Mexican type avocado, and was selected from California Hass avocado seed planted on the west coast of Florida. Medium sized green fruit with high oil content. Adapted to the high humidity of Florida and South TX, cold hardy to 25F. Ripens from Nov-Dec.

How do you take care of a Hass avocado tree in Florida?

1. Plant in loose, well-draining soil.
2. Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light.
3. Water thoroughly, but not to the point of oversaturation.
4. Feed during the spring, summer, and fall months.

What is the best avocado to grow in Florida?

The varieties best for growing in South Florida are commonly called Florida avocados or green-skin avocados. These are not the dark green ‘Hass’ avocados grown in California; Florida avocados are bright green and have lower fat and calories than their California counterparts.

What is the difference between Florida avocado and Hass?

Avocados grown in Florida tend to be Guatemalan and West Indian hybrids. These green avocados are generally known for having lower fat and calorie content than their counterparts like Hass, as they typically contain less oil and more water content.

Is Florida Hass a good avocado tree?

It’s no secret that the Hass Avocado is not the easiest or most fruitful avocado tree to grow in Florida. OK, but what about the Florida Hass? Does it provide a better ‘Hass-like’ fruit for Florida growers? Let me put it this way: If you have very limited space and want a lot of avocados, do not plant Florida Hass.

Can avocados be grown in Florida?

Avocados can grow in Florida as they are tropical plants that prefer warm weather, rain, and lots of sun. Most of Florida has these conditions, making it suitable for growing various avocado varieties, including the standard ‘hass’ avocado.

What do avocados need to grow?

Avocados prefer warm weather, rain and lots of sun. Avocados don’t mind Florida’s natural soil. Most of Florida has plenty of this.

When is the best time to pick Florida Hass avocados?

With that being said, the best time to pick Florida Hass Avocados are when they are mature on the tree. From a color perspective, Florida Hass will transition to a very dark green color. At that point, I will then check if the fruit 1) is full size 2) feels soft and can 3) gently be removed from the tree.

Do Florida Hass avocados ripen unevenly?

However, prior to running out and buying a tree, it should be noted that Florida Hass, similar to Super Hass, has a lot of issues with uneven ripening (especially with later season fruit). Florida Hass Avocados are considered a mid-to-late season avocado (October – December).

What type of soil is best for growing avocados in Florida?

Avocados grow best in warm climates. The southern and central parts of the state will have the best luck growing avocado trees. Those in north Florida will have to provide protection and choose cold-tolerant varieties. These can become large trees. Plant in an area with enough space, full sun, and well-draining soil.