Growing in a warm, sheltered spot, cherry trees fruit abundantly every summer
With their delicious juicy fruits, pretty spring blossom and bright autumn foliage, cherry trees are an asset to any garden. Producing either sweet cherries for eating fresh or acid cherries for cooking, the trees come in various sizes to suit most gardens – if space is tight, you can grow a fan-trained cherry flat against a wall or fence, or even a dwarf tree in a large container. Cherries are closely related to plums, peaches, nectarines and apricots and enjoy similar growing conditions: namely fertile soil that doesn’t get
Describes soil or potting compost that is saturated with water. The water displaces air from the spaces between soil particles and plant roots can literally drown, unless they are adapted to growing in waterlogged conditions. Waterlogging is common on poorly drained soil or when heavy soil is compacted.
waterlogged or dry out for long spells. For the sweetest fruits, plant in a sunny spot, although acid cherries (for cooking) will also crop well in partial shade. Many modern varieties are self-fertile, which means you only need one tree for a good crop. Just bear in mind that birds love cherries, so it’s best to net the tree or grow it in a fruit cage if you want the whole crop for yourself. To keep cherry trees in good shape and fruiting well, prune annually.
Growing cherry trees in containers is absolutely possible with the right care and preparation. While cherry trees are commonly grown in orchards, their graceful shape and spring blossoms make them an attractive addition to any backyard. With some planning and attentive care, you can enjoy the beauty of cherry trees on your patio or front steps.
Choosing a Cherry Tree Variety
When selecting a cherry tree for a pot, opt for a dwarf or patio variety that matures at 8-10 feet tall. Full size cherry trees can reach heights of 15-30 feet, making them impractical for container growing
Some good cherry tree varieties for containers include:
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North Star – An early ripening dwarf cherry that produces sweet dark red fruit, It only reaches 8-10 feet tall at maturity,
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Rainier – A yellow and red sweet cherry cultivar that stays under 10 feet tall. It is self-fruitful so you only need one tree for pollination.
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Pink Cloud – A flowering cherry tree that grows to 10 feet It produces light pink blooms in early spring
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Kojo-No-Mai – A compact ornamental cherry tree with pink flowers. It only reaches 6 feet tall.
Look for self-pollinating cherry varieties so you don’t need to have multiple trees for cross-pollination.
Getting the Right Pot
Cherry trees have spreading root systems, so choose the largest container you can accommodate on your patio or balcony. A 15-30 gallon pot is ideal for a mature dwarf cherry tree. Make sure the pot has drainage holes to prevent waterlogged soil.
You can also plant cherry trees in half wine barrels or whiskey barrels, just be sure to drill drainage holes. The thicker wooden sides provide insulation to protect roots from temperature swings.
Use casters or wheels on the bottom of the pot so you can easily move it out of the hot afternoon sun or protect it from frost overnight.
Soil and Planting
Cherry trees require well-draining soil to prevent root rot. Use a potting mix made for trees and shrubs, or make your own mix:
- 1 part sand or perlite for drainage
- 1 part peat or compost for moisture retention
- 1 part topsoil for nutrients
Place your cherry tree in the pot so the first branches are just above the soil line. Surround with potting mix, tamping down gently to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly after planting.
Container Care
Water potted cherry trees regularly, taking care not to overwater. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings, then soak thoroughly. Drought stress can cause fruit drop or leaf curl.
Fertilize monthly during spring and summer with a balanced organic fertilizer. Stop fertilizing after mid-summer so the tree hardens off for winter.
Prune each year in late winter to remove dead branches and maintain tree shape. Thin crowded branches to let in air and light.
Protect the tree from harsh winds and frost in winter. Move the pot against a sheltered wall or cover with burlap. Stop watering once it goes dormant for winter.
Repot every 2-3 years in early spring as needed. Slide the rootball out and gently loosen any circled roots before moving to a larger pot.
With the right care and conditions, it is certainly possible for home gardeners to enjoy the beauty of cherry trees grown in containers. Their spring blossoms and summer fruit make them a delightful addition to decks, patios, and entryways in any landscape.
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Cherry Trees in Pots
Growing cherry trees in containers comes with some unique considerations. Here are answers to some common questions about successfully cultivating potted cherry trees:
How big of a pot do I need for a cherry tree?
Cherry trees need room for their spreading root systems. For a dwarf variety expected to reach 8-10 feet tall, use at least a 15 gallon pot. Larger varieties need at least a 25 gallon container.
Can I grow a cherry tree on my balcony?
Balconies and rooftop gardens present some challenges, but dwarf cherry trees can thrive with proper care. Use at least a 20 gallon pot and protect the tree from wind and extreme winter cold.
What kind of soil is best for potted cherry trees?
Cherries need well-draining soil to avoid root rot. Use a commercial potting mix made for trees or a homemade blend of equal parts sand, compost, and topsoil.
How often should I water a potted cherry tree?
Water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil become dry. Avoid letting the soil completely dry out. Water at least 2-3 times per week in summer, less in other seasons.
Should I fertilize my container cherry tree?
Fertilize monthly in spring and summer with a balanced organic fertilizer formulated for fruit trees. Stop fertilizing by mid-summer so growth hardens off before winter.
How can I overwinter my potted cherry tree?
Move potted cherry trees against a sheltered wall or cover with burlap over winter. Stop watering once it goes fully dormant. Bring trees out of dormancy gradually in early spring.
Do I need two cherry trees for pollination?
Some varieties like Rainier and North Star are self-fruitful so you only need one tree. Other types require a second tree for cross-pollination in order to set fruit.
How can I prevent insects on my potted cherry tree?
Prune for open air circulation. Remove diseased wood immediately. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap early to prevent major infestations. Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs.
Why do my container cherry tree’s leaves curl?
Leaf curl can be caused by overwatering, underwatering, too much fertilizer, or aphid infestations. Adjust care and spray aphids off with water. Severe curling may indicate disease requiring treatment.
With the right variety, pot, soil, and care regimen, it is very feasible to successfully grow small cherry trees on patios and balconies. Pay close attention to drainage, sunlight, and watering to keep container cherry trees healthy and productive for years of enjoyment.
What and where to buy
Cherry trees are sold either bare root (without soil around the roots) or in pots. Bare-root trees are only available while dormant, from late autumn to early spring, usually from specialist suppliers. Potted trees are available all year round and are sold by most gardening retailers. Specialist fruit nurseries offer the widest choice of varieties, usually by mail order. If you want to grow a fan-trained tree, decide if you want to train it yourself from scratch starting with one-year-old tree (maiden) or buy a (more expensive) partially trained tree from a specialist nursery. Choose a tree with a well-balanced shape and three to five good shoots growing from the central stem. You can then train and prune it into any of the popular tree forms if you wish – see Pruning and Training, below.
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Sweet cherry: mid-summer Large black fruits, resistant to splitting in wet weather. Not self-fertile. The
Sweet cherry: late summer Heavy crops of delicious red fruit. Self-fertile, so no pollinator needed. The
Acid cherry: late summer The best acid cherry variety – grows well in shade and is self-fertile. The
You can plant cherry trees either in an open site, such as a lawn, or trained against a wall or fence. Choose a warm, sheltered location that isn’t prone to late frosts, which can damage the blossom. A sheltered site will aid pollination too, as insects will have easier access to the flowers. Sweet cherries like a sunny spot, such as against a south- or south-west-facing wall, while acid cherries will tolerate some shade, so are ideal for a north-facing wall. Cherries grow particularly well in southern and central England. All cherries prefer deep, fertile, well-drained soil that is ideally slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5–6.7. They grow less well in shallow or sandy soil. Poorly drained conditions can cause the roots to rot.
Cherry trees are easy to plant, and this is best done while they are dormant, between November and March. Bare-root trees are only available during this period. Potted trees are available all year round and can potentially be planted at any time, but will settle in best from late autumn to spring. Prepare your tree for planting by giving it a good watering if it’s in a container or by standing it in a bucket of water for half an hour if it’s a bare-root tree. If planting in a lawn, remove a circle of grass at least 1m (3¼ft) in diameter, so the tree’s roots don’t have to compete with the grass for water and nutrients as they get established. If your tree is going to be trained against a wall, dig in lots of well-rotted manure or garden compost before planting, as the soil at the base of walls is usually poor and dry. Plant the tree at least 25–35cm (10–14in) away from the wall. See our guides below for full details of how to plant a cherry tree.
Cherry trees crop best in the ground, but if you don’t have suitable soil or an available site, you can plant in a large container. Choose a tree on a semi-dwarfing rootstock (‘Gisela 5’ ) – acid cherries are naturally less vigorous, so are better suited to growing in pots. The container should be at least 45–50cm (18–20in) wide – terracotta pots or half-barrels are suitably heavy and stable. Use peat-free soil-based compost, or a peat-free multi-purpose compost mixed with one-third by volume of grit or perlite. You can also mix in controlled-release fertiliser pellets. See our video guide below for full planting details.
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Established cherry trees in open ground shouldn’t need watering, except during long dry spells in the early stages of fruit development – they often shed young fruits when short of water. Be careful not to overwater in summer though – too much watering or very wet weather can cause ripe fruits to split. Young cherry trees, some trained trees and those in pots need watering throughout the growing season:
- Newly planted cherry trees should be watered regularly for at least the first year
- Fan-trained cherry trees may require watering if they’re in a rain-shadow – where the wall or fence reduces the amount of rainfall they receive
- Trees in containers must be watered generously throughout the summer – as often as once a day in hot weather, as they will dry out quickly. But never leave them standing in water, especially in winter, as the roots can rot – raising the container onto ‘pot feet’ or bricks will keep the drainage holes clear and avoid waterlogged compost
Apply a mulch of well-rotted manure around the base of cherry trees in mid-spring to help retain soil moisture, deter weeds and provide nitrogen.
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Apply a fertiliser rich in potassium to improve fruiting
To boost fruiting, feed cherry trees with a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4 or fish, blood and bonemeal, in late winter. Scatter two handfuls per square metre/yard around trees growing in bare soil or two-and-a-half handfuls per square metre/yard around those growing in grass. Cherry trees in containers should be given a high potassium liquid feed every couple of weeks in spring and summer. Also, repot them every few years in spring, into a slightly larger container, once their roots fill the current container. Use peat-free loam-based potting compost.
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