Plants can be propagated, or multiplied, in several different ways. Most people are familiar with growing new plants from seeds, but new plants can also be created by cutting off a portion of an established plant. This “cutting” is placed in an environment that encourages it to produce new roots and/or stems, thus forming a new, independent plant.
Cuttings can be made from any part of the plant. Most frequently, however, either a stem or leaf is used. A stem cutting includes a piece of stem plus any attached leaves or buds. Thus, the stem cutting only needs to form new roots to be a complete, independent plant. A leaf cutting uses just the leaf, so both new roots and new stems must be formed to create a new plant.
Stem cuttings can be taken from both herbaceous plants (e.g., garden flowers and houseplants) and woody trees and shrubs. Because the new growth of trees and shrubs hardens as the summer progresses, cuttings taken at different times of the year vary in their ability to form roots. Softwood and herbaceous cuttings are the most likely to develop roots and become independent plants, hardwood cuttings the least likely.
Softwood cuttings are prepared from soft, succulent new growth of woody plants just as it begins to harden (typically May through July). Shoots at the softwood stage will snap easily when bent. The youngest leaves have not yet reached their mature size.
Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from the current season’s growth after the wood has matured. The wood is firm and all leaves are full size. This occurs in mid-July to early fall for most plants. Many broadleaf evergreens (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron) can be propagated by semi-hardwood cuttings.
Hardwood cuttings are prepared from shoots that grew the previous summer. They are cut in winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Some deciduous shrubs and needled evergreens will root from hardwood cuttings.
Leaf cuttings are prepared by taking a single leaf from the plant. This leaf must generate not only new roots, but new shoots as well. The leaf used for propagation usually does not become part of the new plant, but disintegrates after the new plant is formed. Only a limited number of plants have the ability to produce new roots and shoots from just a leaf.
Cuttings taken from roots may also be used but only a few species can be propagated this way. Cuttings are taken when the plant is dormant and the roots contain the most stored energy. Each root produces two to three new stems and each stem then produces its own roots. The original root cutting disintegrates.
To successfully propagate plants from cuttings, a number of challenges must be overcome. Once a cutting is severed from the parent plant, it can no longer take up water, and excessive water loss will result in death. The wound from the cut makes it susceptible to diseases. New roots must be formed as rapidly as possible if the new plant is to survive.
Start with cuttings that contain as much water as possible. Water the plant well the day before and take the cutting before the heat of the day reduces water content.
1. Process the cutting immediately. If this is not possible, stand the cut end in water or place the cutting in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel and store out of direct sun. If the plant is frost-tolerant, store the bagged cutting in the refrigerator.
2. For a stem cutting, remove some of the leaves. Most of the water will be lost through the leaves, so by decreasing the leaf surface you also decrease the amount of water loss. A general rule of thumb is to remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the leaves. Cut remaining leaves in half if they are large.
3. Once the cutting has been prepared and placed in the rooting mix, enclose the pot in a plastic bag. Insert straws or wooden sticks around the edge of the pot to hold the bag away from the cutting. Place the pot in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight, so the leaves will receive the light they need but the plant will not get overly hot. The plastic bag insures that humidity around the leaves remains high, which slows the rate of water loss.
Take cuttings only from healthy plants. To prevent the spread of disease, use clean tools and pots (clean with 10% bleach, rinse, and let dry thoroughly). Use fresh soilless potting mix since garden soil can harbor plant diseases.
Just like leaves, the roots of plants need air to live. Rooting mix that is continuously waterlogged is devoid of air and cuttings will rot rather than form roots. A mixture of 50% vermiculite/50% perlite holds sufficient air and water to support good root growth, but any well-drained soilless potting mix is acceptable. If your cuttings frequently rot before they root, you know the mix is staying too wet. Add vermiculite or perlite to increase its air- holding capacity.
Cuttings use energy to form new roots. If the cutting has leaves, most of the energy comes from photosynthesis. Expose these cuttings to bright light, but not direct sunlight, during the rooting period. If you use hardwood cuttings that have no leaves, the energy will come from reserves stored in the woody stem. For best results, select shoots that are robust for the species. Since you want all the energy to go into the new roots, make sure you cut off any flowers or fruits that would compete for energy.
Auxin, a naturally occurring plant hormone, stimulates root formation. Several synthetic forms of auxin are sold as “rooting hormone.” Though some plants will root readily without treatment, application of rooting hormone to the base of the cutting will often improve your chance for success. Two synthetic auxins, IBA (indolebutyric acid) and NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid) are most frequently used. They are available in several concentrations and in both liquid and powder form. 1,000 ppm (0.1%) is used most often for herbaceous and softwood cuttings; 3,000 ppm (0.3%) and 8,000 ppm (0.8%) are used for semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings. Liquid formulations can be used at low or high concentration for softwood or hardwood cuttings, respectively. To determine the appropriate concentration for your cutting, follow the instructions on the product label and the general guidelines just given, or consult the references listed at the end of this publication.
To use rooting hormone, place the amount needed in a separate container. Any material that remains after treating the cuttings should be discarded, not returned to the original container. These precautions will prevent contamination of the entire bottle of rooting hormone.
Cuttings will root more quickly and reliably in warm rooting mix. Keep your cuttings between 65°F and 75°F, avoiding excessive heat. If your area is too cold, consider a heating mat or cable especially designed for this purpose.
Chopping up plants might sound destructive, but it’s actually an effective way to multiply your greenery Propagating plants by cuttings is a clever hack that gardeners have been using for centuries to clone their favorite flowers, herbs, and houseplants With a sharp pair of scissors and a little know-how, you can turn one plant into many in no time.
Why Cutting Plants Works for Propagation
Snipping off pieces of a plant and rooting them sounds counterintuitive. Wouldn’t that damage or kill the plant? Surprisingly many plants have an amazing ability to regenerate from cuttings. When you remove a stem, leaf or even just a few cells and place them in soil or water, they can form adventitious roots and develop into a whole new plant.
This works because many plant cells are totipotent, meaning they have the genetic material and ability to divide and differentiate into all the tissue types needed to create an entire plant. So when you take a cutting, those totipotent cells allow the severed piece to essentially clone itself. As long as the cutting contains nodes where leaves and buds attach, it can form roots and grow.
What Plants Can Be Propagated from Cuttings
Lots of popular houseplants are great candidates for propagation by cuttings, including
- Succulents like echeveria, jade plants, and burro’s tail
- Vining plants like pothos, philodendron, and monstera
- Herbs like mint, basil, oregano, and rosemary
- Flowers like geraniums, chrysanthemums, and begonias
Woody shrubs and trees like hydrangea, viburnum, forsythia, and figs can also be propagated by cuttings. Even vegetables like tomatoes and peppers can be cloned by snipping off suckers and replanting them.
Generally, quick-growing annuals and perennials with soft stems or fleshy leaves root the quickest from cuttings. Slower-growing trees and shrubs take more time and care.
How to Take and Root Plant Cuttings
Taking cuttings from plants is easy, but getting them to successfully root takes some finesse. Follow these basic steps:
Select a Healthy “Mother Plant”
Choose a vigorous, established plant that’s free of pests and diseases. Take cuttings from new growth that’s healthy and non-flowering.
Use Sterilized Tools
Clean your pruning shears, scissors, or knife with isopropyl alcohol to prevent spreading disease between plants.
Make a Proper Cut
Make a clean cut just below a node using a 45 degree angle cut. This exposes more surface area for rooting.
Apply Rooting Hormone (Optional)
Dipping the cut end in rooting powder containing auxin hormones can encourage faster root growth, especially for woody stems.
Plant in Media
Stick the cutting in sterile potting mix, peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, or water. Make sure the node is buried in the rooting medium.
Maintain Humidity
Covering cuttings with plastic bags or domes keeps the environment humid while roots form. Mist occasionally if needed.
Give Bright, Indirect Light
Avoid direct sun until the cutting is rooted, as it can scorch tender new growth. Bright shade encourages rooting.
Be Patient
It can take weeks or months for roots to form depending on the plant. Don’t disturb cuttings until you see new growth.
Rooting Plants in Water
An easy way to propagate plants by cuttings is to root them directly in water. All you need is a vessel with water, like a mason jar, and a cutting with at least one node submerged. Change the water every few days to prevent rot. Once roots a few inches long appear, pot up the plant in soil.
Water rooting has high success rates for plants like pothos, philodendrons, basil, coleus, roses, and pelargoniums. The clear jar lets you easily monitor root development. However, soil rooting is better long-term for established plants.
Tips for Rooting Plant Cuttings Successfully
Propagating plants from cuttings takes practice. Follow these tips to improve your chances of success:
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Take cuttings first thing in the morning when the plant is hydrated.
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Use a sharp, sterile knife or shears for clean cuts. Tearing stems by hand can damage them.
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Cut just below a node so the cutting has a place to form roots.
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Leave 2-6 nodes on the cutting if possible. More growing points means more roots.
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Grow the mother plant well before taking cuttings. A healthy plant yields the best cuttings.
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Change the water every 2-3 days for water rooting. Stagnant water breeds bacteria.
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Keep soil moist, not soggy, for potted cuttings. Too much moisture invites diseases.
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Pinch off any flowers or buds that form on cuttings so the plant focuses energy on rooting.
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Acclimate plantlets gradually to lower humidity and more sun before transplanting.
Enjoy Endless Plants Through Propagation
Learning to propagate houseplants and garden plants through cuttings allows you to turn one plant into many for free. It’s a fun project for plant lovers and a great way to share prized plants with friends.
Experiment with taking cuttings from your different plants. Many will surprise you with their ability to generate whole new root systems when snipped into pieces. Just be sure to use sterile practices, give them proper care, and be patient. The waiting pays off when you end up with more potted plants to enjoy!
How to Make Hardwood Cuttings
Take hardwood cuttings in winter or early spring. Deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves every winter) have no leaves at this time. Thus, water loss is not a serious problems with these cuttings, unless the buds open. Hardwood cuttings are more difficult to root than softwood cuttings, and it may take two to four months for roots to form. The technique does work well with some shrubs such as forsythia, privet, and willow. Needled evergreens can also be propagated using hardwood cuttings, but care must be taken to reduce water loss.
How to Make Herbaceous and Softwood Stem Cuttings
Many houseplants, annuals, perennials, and woody plants can be propagated by stem cuttings when they are in active growth and the stems are soft.
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- Cut off a piece of stem, 2-6 inches long. There should be at least three sets of leaves on the cutting.
- Trim the cutting in the following way:
- Make the bottom cut just below a node (a node is where the leaf and/or the bud joins the stem) (Figure 1).
- Remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the leaves, starting from the bottom of the cutting. Cut large leaves in half (Figure 2).
- Remove all flowers, flower buds, and fruit.
- (optional) Dip the lower inch of the cutting in rooting hormone.
- In a pot of damp, but drained, rooting mix, make a hole for the cutting using a pencil. Put the cutting in the hole and firm the rooting mix around it. If any leaves are touching the surface of the mix, trim them back. Several cuttings can be placed in the same pot as long as their leaves do not touch.
- Enclose the pot in a plastic bag, making sure the bag does not touch the leaves.
- Place the pot in a warm, bright spot but out of direct sunlight. Every few days, check the rooting mix to make sure it is damp, and water as necessary. Discard any water that collects in the bottom of the bag.
- After two or three weeks, check to see if roots have formed by working your hand under the cutting and gently lifting (Figure 3). If no roots have formed, or if they are very small, firm the cutting back into the mix, rebag, and check for roots again in one to two weeks.
- Once roots have formed, slowly decrease the humidity around the plant by untying the plastic bag and then opening it a little more each day. When it is growing well without a plastic bag, pot in a good quality potting mix and move to its permanent location.
How to Propagate Plants: 4 Methods to Master
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