How to build a deer-proof raised bed garden using an easy “just add lumber” kit with step-by-step directions.
Our new garden turned out so well, and I’m excited to share with you how to build a deer-proof raised bed garden for yourself using THIS easy “just add lumber” kit !
For as long as I can remember, I’ve always tackled some kind of project on my Memorial Day weekends.
I always viewed Memorial Weekend as a way to recharge my batteries, so I could be fully invested in the kids when they were home all summer. And our summers home together are still some of my favorite memories.
For me, recharging looks like totally throwing myself into a project I’d been wanting to get done for some time. If the weather was cooperative, I’d choose a project that would let me be outside all weekend long.
This year, when I suggested to my husband that maybe we should use Memorial Day Weekend to build a garden, he was all in.
Sometimes, I don’t know how I got so blessed to have a partner now who fully embraces my schemes and is ready and willing to jump right in with me. I tell ya, people, this guy is a keeper.
Raised garden beds are a great way to grow fruits vegetables flowers, and herbs. But these bountiful gardens often attract unwanted visitors – deer. Deer can quickly destroy a garden by eating plants or trampling beds. Fortunately, there are effective ways to deer proof raised beds to protect your hard work.
In this complete guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about keeping deer away from raised beds We’ll look at physical barriers, natural repellents, scare tactics, and design elements to incorporate With a bit of effort, you can safeguard your raised garden and still enjoy easy access for tending your plants.
Why Deer Love Raised Beds
Raised gardens are magnets for deer for several reasons
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Concentrated food source – Raised beds contain a dense variety of deer-enticing plants in a compact space.
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Accessibility – The elevated design makes raised beds easy for deer to approach and sample.
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Visibility – Raised beds stand out, so deer can spot them readily in a landscape.
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New plantings – The disturbed soil and freshly planted options in raised beds smell appealing.
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Lack of deterrents – Most raised beds lack protective measures, making access effortless.
Physical Barriers for Raised Beds
Installing physical barriers is the most reliable way to keep deer from accessing and destroying plants in raised beds. Here are some of the most effective options:
Perimeter Fencing
Install tall fencing around the entire perimeter of your raised bed area. Look for metal “deer netting” or welded wire fencing at least 6-8 feet high. Deer can easily jump over shorter fences. Bury the bottom 1-2 feet for extra security.
For easier access, build gates using chicken wire, hardware cloth, or netting. Use sturdy hinges and latches. Openings should be wide enough for you but not deer.
Mesh Boxes
Build an enclosed “cage” for your raised bed from galvanized steel hardware cloth or aviary mesh. Use 1-2 inch openings. Bury mesh 12-24 inches deep to prevent burrowing.
Include mesh across the top to prevent deer from leaping in. Slope roof panels to allow rainfall runoff.
Solid Wood Walls
Constructing raised beds with solid wood rather than framed sides adds another physical deterrent. The solid sides prevent deer from being able to see or sample tempting greenery.
For maintenance access, include lift-off wood panels secured with hinges and hardware. Keep panels in place except when tending the bed.
Overhang Ledges
Rim raised bed walls with wide overhanging ledges that angle outward at 45 degrees or more. The protruding lips make it hard for deer to maneuver over the bed.
Match ledge depth to wall height. For example, a 20 inch high bed wall could have a 20 inch deep sloped ledge.
Natural Deer Repellents
Using natural scents and substances that deter deer is an easy addition to your protective regimen.
Smelly repellents – Mix up sprays using garlic, rotten eggs, hot peppers, or soap. Reapply every 2-4 weeks.
Plants deer avoid – Plant lavender, daffodils, sages, and marigolds which deer dislike. They’ll help mask edible plants.
Milorganite fertilizer – The strong scent of this organic fertilizer keeps deer away. Sprinkle per package instructions.
Hair or sweat – Collect human hair and sweaty clothing and place in mesh bags. Foul scents repel deer.
Predator urine – Look for commercial deer repellent sprays containing coyote or bobcat urine. Deer instinctively avoid.
Noise makers – Set up loud radios, ultrasonic devices, or rattlers activated by motion detectors. Works best if moved periodically.
Scare Tactics and Deterrents
In addition to foul smells, deer tend to avoid anything unfamiliar or distressing. Take advantage of that instinct using scare tactics.
Lifelike decoys – Place large plastic owls, snakes, or coyotes in the garden. Move periodically so they don’t become normal.
Motion activated sprinklers – These detect deer and spray them with safe but startling bursts of water.
Atypical objects – Try balloons, pinwheels, CDs hanging from string, or strips of foil to frighten deer. Relocate every few days.
Night lighting – Flood the area with motion-activated spotlights. These startle and expose deer. Use along with other deterrents.
Designing Deer Resistant Raised Beds
You can also incorporate deer-thwarting features right into your raised bed design and placement.
Elevate beds – Construct above ground so the soil surface sits at least 3 feet high. Deer can’t reach plants.
Partially bury – Choose a site where one long side can be backed into a slope or berm. Burying half the bed blocks access.
Protect vulnerable plants – Use taller raised beds, fencing, or netting to isolate only edibles. Many flowers are less appealing.
Near homes – Locate raised beds closer to your house. Deer are more cautious to approach frequented areas.
Night shelter – Drape netting or fabric over plants at night when deer are most active. Remove during the day.
Top DIY Deer Resistant Raised Bed Ideas
Here are a few of the most effective deer proof raised bed designs you can easily create:
Simple Box Style – A basic box constructed from rot-resistant cedar or redwood. Install tall galvanized fencing around the perimeter and bury hardware cloth under the soil.
Elevated Grid – Crisscross galvanized wire, chains, or cables over the bed in a grid. Leave 3-4 inch gaps between lines. Elevate the grid on posts 3 feet off the ground.
Partial Fencing – Use tall galvanized fencing on the three most vulnerable sides. Leave one side backed onto a wall or slope unfenced.
Wraparound Mesh – Wrap deer netting completely around all sides of the bed including under the soil and diagonally across the top. Secure thoroughly.
Hanging Baskets – Grow vegetables and herbs above ground in mesh or wire hanging baskets suspended from sturdy frameworks.
##Maintenance Tips for Deer Resistant Raised Beds
Once your protective raised beds are in place, be diligent about maintenance:
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Check fencing and netting weekly for holes, sagging, or detached areas. Deer will exploit any weaknesses.
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Reapply smelly or frightening deterrents routinely, before rain if possible. Don’t allow the smell to dissipate.
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Clear away plants or objects that could allow deer access if climbed on. Keep a clean perimeter.
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Ensure latches on gates and fencing are working properly. Immediately replace broken hardware.
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Watch for small tears or openings and repair quickly. Dirt, moisture, and weeds can allow gaps to form.
Make Raised Bed Gardening Deer Free
While raised beds are magnets for deer due to their accessibility and concentrated plantings, you can take steps to effectively deer proof your garden. Physical barriers, scare tactics, natural repellents, and strategic design will help safeguard your bountiful beds. Be vigilant about maintenance. Determined deer will look for any weaknesses, so stay on top of fortifying your fortress. With some simple protective measures, you can keep deer at bay and enjoy a thriving raised bed garden.
deer: 54
raised beds/bed: 40
garden: 22
plants: 10
mesh: 7
fencing: 7
repellents: 6
netting: 5
walls: 4
hardware cloth: 3
ledges: 3
lumber: 2
gates: 2
soil: 2
latches: 2
motion activated: 2
liquid: 2
garlic: 2
perimeter: 2
galvanized: 2
grid: 2
Building the Base of the Deer-Proof Raised Bed Garden
The back of the raised bed is 12 feet and the sides are 8 feet.
We used 10″ by 2″ pieces of cedar, stacked two high to make the base, attaching them with metal corner brackets. This makes the height of the raised beds 20″, which I love!
I also love the little keyhole cutout in the center, which makes everything in the garden so accessible!
In the picture below, you can see how we used some of our scrap wood pieces to add a brace across the longest 12′ run. We wanted to make sure it wouldn’t bow out, or get out of alignment once all the dirt was added.
At the last minute, we decided to add some mesh screening on the bottom to keep out any tunneling creatures like moles or voles.
I haven’t seen any moles, but in the far back part of our property, I do notice several holes where something tunnels. And we definitely have seen several voles and their trails.
The last thing we wanted was to go to all the trouble of building this well-fortified garden with a fence, only to have some little guys tunnel up from the bottom! And since this is definitely one of those things you can’t go back and add later, we decided “better safe than sorry”.
I ordered 3 rolls of this wire mesh from Lowes online, and picked it up curbside. Then we cut it with wire cutters just enough bigger than the bottom of the garden that it would go up the sides about an inch or so.
Be really careful doing this because the edges are sharp!
We made sure to wear work gloves when we were working with the wire, to protect our hands, but this still turned out to be the only injury of the whole project, when I accidentally rubbed my ankle across the edge of a piece of the mesh, instantly drawing blood.
Next, we assembled the upper sides of the garden. These serve as both a barrier to keep the deer out, and also mesh trellises to support any vining plants, like cucumbers.
At this point, we decided to apply a clear wood protector to the cedar, to make it withstand the elements better. We used Cabot’s Clear Wood Protector just to give the wood some water and UV protection, without adding color, since the new cedar was already a nice tone.
We made sure to apply the stain to only the exterior portion of the base. We didn’t want the toxic chemicals to come in contact with the soil, and seep into our vegetables.
We did apply the water protector to all sides of the trellises though because those won’t be in contact with the soil at all.
We used heavy-duty polyester netting and cut it just slightly larger than each trellis piece.
Then we tacked it down with a staple about every 2 inches on all sides, using an electric staple gun.
You can use a manual staple gun, but this ends up being a lot of staples. I think we went through a box of 1200.
My hand was tired after I was done, even with an electric staple gun.
The trellis frames are made out of 2x2s and 2x4s, so they sit nicely on top of the 2×10 inch boards of the base. We secured them by drilling multiple 3″ screws along each one.
We were very careful to drill pilot holes first, so we didn’t split the cedar. One thing that was a big help was using both our Ryobi drill for the pilot holes, and our Ryobi impact driver to insert the screws.
By having both, we didn’t have to keep switching drill bits over and over. Plus, my hubby had these magnetic bowls, which were super handy to make sure our screws weren’t getting lost in the grass.
Not to mention, how lucky were we to be working with this view? See what I mean about the enjoyment of a good project, especially an outside one? It was just what my tired soul needed.
We built the door out of 2x2s and 2x4s. The bottom panel of the door has some hard wire mesh that is black plastic coated to make it stronger, and the top has more polyester netting.
We added three pretty sturdy hinges, and a self-latching gate clasp to hold the door shut.
This is where we made our only “mistake”.
We realized the 2×4 in the middle of the door wasn’t going to align correctly with the post rail for the door to lock properly.
It was an easy fix though. We just had to remove the screws, move it down, and drill new holes.
Can you believe that the dirt was the hardest part of this whole project?! Both acquiring it and hauling it.
It never even occurred to me that we’d have a hard time finding dirt. I mean, really?
I started calling around to various companies and many of them told me that because a record number of people had decided to build a garden this year, they were out of garden soil.
I guess this pandemic made everyone decide they better secure their own food supply, huh?
Victory Gardens for everyone!
It took calls to multiple places, plus one guy who stood me up twice, before I finally caved and paid more than I wanted to a company who agreed to bring it in an hour. Worth it.
They brought almost 4 tons of a garden soil mix (60% black soil, 20% compost, and 20% sand) and dumped it right in the middle of our driveway. Which is a looooooong way from our garden site. Like, an acre away.
Fortunately, my hubs had this handy garden cart that attaches to his lawn tractor which we used to haul allllll of that dirt back there, one cart at a time.
Shovel it in the cart, drive the cart back to the garden, shovel it out of the cart. Doing this with 4 tons of dirt was a long, hot, sweaty process.
We also had help from our strong and energetic 18-year-old, who has youth on his side.
But even my 82-year-old mother-in-law did a little shoveling. I was impressed!
It was definitely a group effort to get this part done.
Above is a picture of my husband hauling a couple of totes of dirt we had leftover from another project.
We dumped those in the bottom of the garden base first, and then the 4 tons of garden soil, but even that wasn’t quite enough. After it settled a bit, we still added about 6 bags of compost and peat moss on top.
But look at that beautiful dark, rich soil we ended up with! That is going to grow some mighty good veggies, I have no doubt.
The raised beds are more than 20″ high, which made adding the plants so easy! No stooping down.
Plus, since the soil is such a nice loose mix of dirt, compost and sand, it was light and easy to work with. All of the plants tucked in so nicely.
This 12’x8′ garden has a surprising amount of space to work with. In here I was able to plant 4 tomatoes plants, 2 cucumber plants, one zucchini plant, one yellow squash plant and 8 pepper plants (4 each of 2 different varieties!)
Not only is the height of the beds perfect, but I love the little keyhole cutout center.
It makes it so easy to access all the plants without having to traipse through the middle of a muddy garden to reach things.
Plus, we added several bags of pea gravel in the walking area, which keeps the grass from growing up, and prevents it from being muddy after watering.
I was so excited to get my plants in there at the end of the weekend!
My husband worked on the mowing, and I got all my plant babies nestled into their new home.
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Just as we were finishing up, we were treated with these beautiful rays.
And then when I looked across the pasture, I saw these little guys watching us, making me glad all our plants were fully protected in their garden fortress.
I love watching the deer, but we didn’t go to all this work to provide them with a snack.
The Whiskey Barrel Garden
Last year was our first summer in our new home.
We spent all spring and a good chunk of the summer on the landscaping and getting grass to grow on the back part of our acreage, beyond where we laid sod. A garden just wasn’t in the cards.
But, I was not prepared to face a summer with no home-grown tomatoes though, so we bought a half whiskey barrel and planted one tomato plant, just to make do.
This spring, we discussed the idea of a “real” garden, but at the time, we were fully in the grips of quarantine, I was trying to learn how to effectively teach from home, and Mark was working in the ICU at the hospital at a time when nobody still really knew what to expect with COVID-19.
It was a lot of stress to say the least.
So the garden idea got tossed aside, and instead, I ordered two more whiskey barrels online from Home Depot, and picked them up curbside.
At the beginning of May, I planted two tomatoes this time, and one cucumber, and pushed the real garden idea back to next summer.
Garden in a Box with Deer Fence 8×12 Assembly
FAQ
What should I put at the bottom of a raised garden bed?
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Weed barrier:Use cardboard, newspaper, or landscape fabric to block weeds from growing up from the ground beneath the raised bed.
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Drainage layer:Add a layer of coarse material like gravel, broken pottery shards, or small stones to improve drainage.
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Organic material (Hugelkultur):For better soil quality, consider adding a layer of woody material like branches, twigs, or wood chips, which will decompose over time and add nutrients to the soil.
How do you make a deer resistant garden?
- Whenever possible, get deer-resistant plants.
- When plants are not deer-resistant, interplant them with deer-resistant flowers (dianthus and marigolds work well), alliums (garlic, onions, leeks) or strong-smelling herbs (mints, oregano, rosemary, lavender, basil).
How do I keep animals out of my raised garden bed?
- A fence is the best way to keep most animals out.
- For rabbits, use chicken wire with one-inch openings that’s at least 18 inches tall.
- Put up a fence as soon as you start your garden.
What should you not put in a raised garden bed?
- 01 of 10. Squash. John W. …
- 02 of 10. Melon. Willowpix / Getty Images. …
- 03 of 10. Corn. ©Studio One-One / Getty Images. …
- 04 of 10. Blackberries. Aldo Pavan / Getty Images. …
- 05 of 10. Mint. Tendo23 / Getty Images. …
- 06 of 10. Apple Trees. …
- 07 of 10. Asparagus. …
- 08 of 10. Pumpkins.
What is a deer proof fence & trellis?
Deer Proof – 5 foot 7 inch high fence doubles as a trellis, while preventing deer from jumping into the garden. Raised Garden Beds – 20” tall raised beds mean you don’t have to bend down as far, and the soil will retain more moisture than shorter beds. Soil fills right to the bottom.
Are raised garden beds deer proof?
There are many DIY deer proof raised garden beds ideas to help keep your garden safe from deer. One idea is to make a fence around your garden, with tall stakes at the corners. You could also construct a sturdy fence made of wooden boards, with a gate that is always closed (except during hunting season).
Should you build a deer-proof raised garden bed?
Building deer-proof raised garden beds is a practical and effective way to solve this problem. Not only will it protect your plants, but it will also add some aesthetics to your garden. If you’re looking for inspiration, check out our raised garden bed ideas to design a garden that fits your needs
How long does it take to assemble a deer proof raised garden bed?
You can assemble this deer proof raised garden bed kit yourself, or have a local handyperson follow the instructions and set it up for you. Assembly can take 4-5 hours, and adding the soil (75 cubic feet) can take an additional few hours. Note that no digging is required as the entire structure sits directly on the ground.
What is a deer proof garden kit?
Made with solid cedar, the 8′ x 8′ x 20″ Deer Proof Garden Kit is enclosed with a 5′ 7″ high fence to prevent deer from entering the garden and eating your vegetables. This fence doubles as a trellis. Read more
How do I keep deer from digging through my garden?
Another option is to add a layer of mulch beneath the vegetables and flowers in your garden, which will make it difficult for deer to dig through. A raised bed garden is a great way to conserve valuable ground space. A raised bed garden is a great way to conserve valuable ground space.