Horse Manure vs Cow Manure: Which Makes the Better Fertilizer?

As gardeners and farmers, we’re always looking for natural ways to boost soil health and fertility. Two of the most readily available organic fertilizers are horse manure and cow manure. But which is better for your garden or fields – horse poop or cow dung? Let’s dive into the key differences and pros and cons of using each.

Key Differences Between Horse and Cow Manure

While horse manure and cow manure share some similarities in their nutrient composition, there are a few key differences that can impact their performance as fertilizers

• Nutrient content Horse manure tends to be higher in nitrogen and other nutrients than cow manure. On a dry weight basis, horse manure contains 0.7% nitrogen compared to 0.6% in cow manure. The phosphorus content is similar at 0.3-0.4% but horse manure has slightly higher potash at 0.6% vs 0.5% for cow manure.

• Moisture content: Fresh cow manure contains a lot more moisture than horse manure. Cow patties are very wet and sloppy, while horse manure comes out in more solid clumps. When dried, horse manure can contain up to twice as much nitrogen due to its lower water content.

• Seeding: Horse manure is more likely to contain viable weed seeds that can sprout and populate your garden. Cow manure tends to have fewer weed seeds since much of what a cow eats is already harvested grain or hay.

• Availability: There are far more cows raised than horses, so cow manure is readily available from dairy farms, cattle feedlots, and other agricultural sources. Horse manure can be harder to source unless you live near stables or racetracks.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Using Horse Manure

Many organic gardeners swear by the fertilizing power of horse manure, but is it really better than cow manure? Here are some of the key pros and cons:

Pros:

• Higher nitrogen content – gives plants a growth boost and deep green foliage.

• Low moisture content makes it easier to apply and incorporate into soil.

• Contains more nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium versus cow manure.

• Has good aeration and drainage properties that improve heavy or compacted soils.

• Readily available if you live near stables, racetracks, or paddocks.

Cons:

• Must be composted before using to kill pathogens, weed seeds, and fly larvae.

• Can make soil too alkaline if applied in excessive amounts.

• Has a strong ammonia smell when fresh.

• May contain antimicrobials or medications given to horses.

• Can be difficult to obtain in bulk if local sources aren’t available.

The bottom line is horse manure can provide an extra nutritional kick, but it needs proper composting before use. Test soil pH regularly as horse manure can slowly raise pH over time.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Using Cow Manure

Turning now to cow manure, how does it compare for enriching garden beds and farm fields? Here are the main upsides and downsides:

Pros:

• Widely available from dairies, cattle farms, and feedlots.

• Has less viable weed seeds than horse manure in most cases.

• Adds valuable organic matter to improve soil structure.

• Contains a good balance of main nutrients – nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium.

• Can be applied fresh or aged without extensive composting.

• Typically has slightly higher micronutrient levels versus horse manure.

Cons:

• Lower nitrogen content than horse manure provides less of a growth boost.

• Very wet and messy to handle when fresh.

• Can burn plants if applied fresh in excessive amounts.

• May contain traces of antibiotics or other cattle medications.

• The high moisture content makes it heavy to transport and spread.

Though lower in nitrogen, cow manure still supplies balanced essential nutrients. It’s more user-friendly to apply fresh off the farm, but should be aged or composted for a few months when possible.

Best Practices for Using Manure

Whether using horse manure or cow manure, following best practices is important:

• Compost first: Compost any fresh manure for 3-6 months before applying it. This kills pathogens, weed seeds, and reduces burning risk.

• Avoid fresh manure on food crops: Only use aged or composted manure directly on edible crops. Fresh manure should be limited to non-food crops.

• Horse manure for gardens: Horse manure is great for vegetable and flower gardens, fruit trees, and berries.

• Cow manure for fields: Cow manure works well on pastures, hay fields, cover crops, and field crops like corn or grains.

• Test soil pH: Monitor pH regularly as excessive manure applications can alter pH over time.

• Use proper safety precautions: Wear gloves, wash hands after handling, avoid contaminating water sources, etc.

Following best practices allows both types of manure to be used safely and effectively.

Obtaining Local Manure Sources

If you don’t have your own livestock, scout out these local sources to get free or low-cost manure:

• Horse stables, racetracks, rodeo/fairgrounds, equine boarding facilities

• Dairy farms, cattle ranches, feedlots, slaughterhouses

• Neighbors or farmers with livestock they need to dispose of manure

• Municipal or county waste authorities collecting composted manure

• Avoid roadside manure piles as these may contain contaminants

Connecting with local equestrian or livestock businesses is a win-win – they need to dispose of manure and you get an excellent soil amendment! Offering to shovel and load it yourself can make pickup more convenient.

Key Takeaways on Horse Manure vs Cow Manure

• Horse manure offers more nitrogen, cow manure provides balanced nutrients.

• Always compost fresh manure before applying to soil.

• Use horse manure for gardens, cow manure for fields.

• Source local free or cheap manure from stables, farms, neighbors.

• Apply manure safely using proper precautions.

With the right sourcing and handling, both types of manure can improve soil health, fertility, and plant growth in a sustainable way. Evaluate availability, fertilizer needs, and use best practices to choose between horse or cow manure for your garden or farm.