How to Successfully Root Camellia Cuttings for Healthy New Plants

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Robby

For thousands of years, humans have appreciated the camellia; so much so, in fact, that they’ve been planted in the gardens of nobility, and trusted to grace the grounds of ancient temples, where deities of the Shinto religion were believed to reside amongst the blooms.

Because of this centuries-long love affair, these plants have been bred and crossbred, resulting in thousands of known varieties. When you plant a camellia, you’re not only adding beauty to your garden, but history as well.

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There are numerous reasons that you might want to duplicate your camellia plant. Perhaps you’re interested in starting a tea garden, and you want to use your healthy C. sinensis plant to parent several more, increasing your harvest of leaves.

You may have one stunning specimen whose name you have forgotten, or that you inherited with a property that you purchased, and you want to plant more of the same.

Or, maybe you just want to use the same variety to create a flowering privacy hedge but you really don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars on buying new plants.

Whatever the reason, you can easily propagate more camellias by yourself, at home, from a healthy specimen. But how will you choose which method to use? Let’s talk about that!

Camellias are classic flowering shrubs that have been prized in gardens for centuries. Their showy flowers, glossy evergreen foliage, and variety of forms, sizes, and colors make camellias perfect for adding elegance and interest to any landscape.

While camellias can be purchased from nurseries, propagating your own from cuttings is a very rewarding way to add more of these beauties to your garden for free. With proper methods and care, rooting camellia cuttings is quite achievable.

If you want to expand your camellia collection, learning how to root cuttings from existing plants is a great place to start Here is a complete guide to successfully rooting camellia cuttings for vibrant, healthy new plants.

Selecting the Best Cuttings

The first key step in propagating camellias is choosing appropriate cutting material from established plants. Actively growing stems make better cuttings than old, woody growth Look for new stems that are green, flexible, and not brittle

Avoid taking cuttings from weak, thin stems or growth with open flowers or flower buds, as these will be less likely to root well. For best results, select stems from the current season’s growth.

The optimal time to take cuttings is in mid to late summer when new growth has hardened off and stems are transitioning from green to woody. However, cuttings can be taken at almost any time plants are actively growing.

Early morning is the best time to collect cuttings, or place stems in water until you are ready to prepare them. This prevents excess wilting. Always use clean, sterilized pruning tools when taking cuttings.

Proper Cutting Size and Nodes

In general, a cutting that is 3-6 inches long is ideal for camellias. The cuttings can be slightly shorter or longer depending on growth habit and availability.

The key is to make sure you have a section of stem with 2-3 leaf nodes, which are the points where leaves emerge from stems. New growth and roots will later develop from the nodes. Avoid single node cuttings when possible.

Trim off any leaves, flowers, or buds from the lower half of the cutting to prevent excess transpiration. Leaving 2-3 leaves at the tip helps sustain the cutting but avoid overly large leaves which can lead to moisture loss.

Make a smooth diagonal cut just below a node when trimming the base of the stem. This maximizes the area for new root initials to form.

Rooting Hormones Boost Results

Treating cuttings with a rooting hormone can significantly increase rooting success and promote a stronger, denser root system. Look for powder, liquid, or gel products containing auxins like indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) or naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA).

Prior to sticking cuttings, dip the clean-cut base of the stems in the rooting hormone following package directions. Coating the bottom 1-2 inches of the stem cutting will provide the best results.

Select a Suitable Rooting Medium

Choosing an appropriate propagation medium creates optimal conditions for camellia cuttings to form roots. Well-drained but moisture retentive options include:

  • Perlite – Absorbs moisture while allowing airflow; use a 50/50 perlite and peat mix.

  • Peat or sphagnum moss – Holds water and nutrients; avoid soggy mixes.

  • Sand & peat – Equal parts sand and peat make a loose, well-aerated blend.

  • Vermiculite – Retains water and nutrients; amend with extra perlite.

  • Potting soil – Use light, seed starting mixes instead of heavy garden soils.

  • Coconut coir – An alternative to peat that also retains moisture.

Moisten your rooting medium before inserting cuttings so it is damp but not saturated. Proper drainage is key to prevent rot and disease issues.

Wounding Aids Root Formation

To further spur rooting, you can wound the base of the cutting before sticking it. Making a wound focuses the cutting’s energy on producing new roots from that area.

There are two easy wounding methods:

  • Slicing – Make a 1-2 inch diagonal slice on the bottom of the stem through the outer bark and tissue.

  • Scraping – Gently scrape off 1-2 inches of bark from the base of the cutting.

Either wounding technique works well to initiate root growth. Avoid crushing or splitting the stem.

Provide Gentle Bottom Heat

Maintaining warm soil temperatures encourages faster rooting and stronger root development. Place pots or trays of cuttings on heating mats set to 70-75°F.

You can also use heatable propagation trays designed to gently warm from the bottom. Just take care to prevent overheating tender cuttings.

Stick Cuttings Correctly

Once you have prepared and treated cuttings, stick them into pre-moistened rooting medium. Use a pencil or stick to make a hole, then gently insert the base of the cutting 1-2 inches deep.

Firm the medium around the stem taking care not to pack it down too tightly. Space multiple cuttings 1-2 inches apart in containers or trays. Water in well after planting to moisten the root zone.

Avoid disturbing or tugging on the cuttings once stuck until new roots establish. Gently check for rooting after 6-8 weeks by giving cuttings a slight tug. If you feel resistance, roots are initiating.

Provide Warm, Humid Conditions

Camellia cuttings need consistent warmth and high humidity during the rooting process. Here are various setups to create ideal conditions:

  • Clear plastic propagation domes – Maintain humidity while allowing light; ventilate to prevent diseases.

  • Mini greenhouses or terrariums – Create enclosed high humidity environments.

  • Plastic bags – Mist cuttings then cover pots with bags to create a greenhouse effect; remove to water.

  • Shade houses – Filter sunlight and protect from drying winds.

  • Greenhouses – Ideal for controlling temperature and humidity levels.

Aim to keep ambient temperatures around 70°F. Ensure adequate air circulation to prevent fungal or bacterial problems.

Monitor Moisture Levels

Vigilant watering is crucial when rooting camellia cuttings. The rooting medium should be kept evenly moist but not saturated. Let it dry out only slightly between thorough waterings.

During the entire rooting period of 4-12 weeks, do not allow the cutting stems or leaves to shrivel or wilt from lack of water. Frequent misting helps maintain high humidity levels.

Once roots are well established, begin transitioning cuttings to normal watering cycles. Avoid overwatering at this stage as too much moisture can lead to root rot issues.

Allow Ample Time for Rooting

Rooting camellia cuttings requires patience! It generally takes 6-12 weeks for cuttings to fully root depending on the time of year and variety. Early fall is the quickest while late winter is the slowest.

Test for rooting after 6-8 weeks by very gently tugging on cuttings. If you feel little resistance, be patient and leave cuttings undisturbed longer to allow tender new roots to further develop.

Transition to the Garden

When camellia cuttings have a well established root system, begin acclimating them to normal growing conditions. Repot into containers with acidic potting soil suited for camellias.

Gradually introduce them to higher light levels and reduced humidity and watering frequencies. Be sure to harden off the new plants before transplanting into garden beds.

With proper techniques, equipment, and care, rooting new camellias from cuttings of existing plants is very achievable. Follow this guide and you’ll soon add beautiful new camellia plants to your garden landscapes for free!

Tips for Maximizing Camellia Cutting Success

  • Take cuttings in morning or place stems in water until prepared.

  • Use clean, sharp pruning tools to prevent disease transmission.

  • Select stems from supple new growth that snap cleanly.

  • Trim cuttings to 4-6 inches in length with 2-3 nodes.

  • Remove lower leaves and flowers which can lead to rotting.

  • Wound stems by scraping or slicing to initiate root growth.

  • Apply rooting hormone to boost rooting percentages.

  • Stick stems 1-2 inches deep in moistened media like peat/perlite.

  • Maintain constant gentle bottom heat around 70°F.

  • Keep humidity very high and soil moisture consistent.

  • Allow 6-12 weeks for cuttings to fully root before disturbing.

  • Gently transplant rooted cuttings into containers once well established.

  • Acclimate rooted cuttings slowly to garden conditions before planting outside.

Troubleshooting Issues with Camellia Cuttings

Rotting stems – Excess moisture leads to fungal or bacterial rots; improve drainage and air circulation.

Leaves yellowing – Low humidity causes wilting and leaf loss; increase humidity levels.

No root growth – Bottom heat too low; raise temperatures to 70-75°F to enhance rooting.

Roots not established – Disturbing cuttings too early damages new root initials; leave cuttings undisturbed for 6-12 weeks.

Stunted growth – Allow cuttings to fill containers with roots before transplanting; wait at least 8 weeks.

Leggy growth – Insufficient light; slowly introduce stronger light once rooted.

Failure to thrive – Shock from improper hardening off; slowly transition rooted cuttings to garden conditions.

By correctly following camellia propagation methods, being patient, and providing ideal conditions, you can overcome these common issues. In no time at all, you’ll have healthy, beautiful new camellia plants to add to your garden!

Frequently Asked Questions About Rooting Camellia Cuttings

What time of year is best for taking camellia cuttings?

Mid to late summer when new growth has hardened off is ideal. Spring or early fall also works well. Avoid late fall or winter.

How long should camellia cuttings be?

Cuttings of 3-6 inches with 2-3 leaf nodes have the best chance of rooting. Single node cuttings are more challenging.

Should I use rooting hormone on camellia cuttings?

Treating with rooting hormone can significantly increase the rate of success rooting cuttings. Use powder, gel, or liquid containing IBA or NAA hormones.

What medium should I use to root camellia cuttings?

Well-drained, moisture retentive options like peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, or coir work well. Avoid dense, heavy potting mixes.

How long does it take for camellia cuttings to root?

It typically takes between 6-12 weeks for camellia cuttings to fully root. Avoid disturbing them for at least 6 weeks.

What conditions do cuttings need to root?

Warm temperatures around 70°F, high humidity, filtered light, and consistent moisture are required for camellia cuttings to root successfully.

When can I transplant my rooted camellia cuttings?

Once cuttings have a well developed root system, transition to containers using acidic potting mix. Slowly acclimate to garden conditions before transplanting outside.

Propagating Camellias Brings Many Rewards

Learning how to root camellia cuttings opens up many possibilities for expanding your garden collection. Propagating from existing plants allows you to replicate your favorite varieties or develop new cultivars.

By following the proper techniques, having patience, and giving cuttings ideal conditions, you can achieve great success rooting camellia cuttings. Be sure to use clean tools, optimal media, rooting hormones, and consistent warmth and humidity.

Within a few months, you’ll have gorgeous new camellia plants to complement your garden. The ability to propagate camellias sustainably from cuttings makes growing these classic shrubs even more rewarding.

how do you root camellias

Which Method Is Best?

The method you should use to propagate your camellia plant depends on the result you hope to achieve. Some methods will produce better results than others.

how do you root camellias

Because they have been crossbred for thousands of years, growing from seed is not the best choice if you want to duplicate a particular specimen.

Camellias grown from seed tend to result in different colors or blossom types, or may produce plants with a very different growth habit than that of the parent. Resulting plants can also be infertile and may fail to bloom.

Plant growers generally prefer to propagate camellias through grafting. This is the process of matching a cutting from a plant with desired characteristics to root stock of a hardy variety, and allowing the two to grow together.

Grafting is especially common in camellias, roses, and fruit trees, since these plants have very specific characteristics that growers prefer to be passed on, such as certain blossom forms, colors, or fruit.

how do you root camellias

You can sometimes tell if the shrub you’ve got has been grown by grafting, even in a more mature specimen, by checking for callusing. More mature plant grafts may no longer be identifiable.

At the base of the trunk, typically just above ground level, you may be able to see a section that has a definite ridge or raised “seam” where the scion, or cutting from a parent plant, was joined in union with the root stock.

Grafted plants are also best propagated by rooting cuttings, or by grafting, layering, or air layering, as these methods best preserve the characteristics of the parent plant.

So, where do we begin? Let’s take a look at the six top methods next.

There are quite a few methods of propagation out there in the plant world.

For our purposes, we’re going to focus on tried and true practices known to produce the best results for camellias specifically.

These six methods are used by plant nurseries, commercial growers, and home gardeners alike.

If your intention is specifically to grow plants that resemble the parent, such as for a uniform hedge, consider one of the other growing methods listed below.

But If your interest is in merely trying your hand at growing a camellia from seed, and you’re unconcerned about replicating characteristics of the parent plant, then this is a perfectly reasonable starting point.

In fact, many of the varieties that exist today were developed from specimens grown from seed, with unique results. Camellia seeds present potentially infinite possibilities. What mystery does that little seed hold?

how do you root camellias

In late winter and spring, when blooming has stopped for the season, you may notice round, green seed pods about the size of a large grape or a small apricot forming on the branches.

The pods will start to form after flowers have been pollinated. By fall or winter, they may darken in color and split open, exposing dark brown to black seeds on the interior.

Keep in mind that different species produce seeds of varying sizes and colors, and they all ripen at different times.

Pods of the C. japonica species tend to ripen sooner than those of other species, sometimes in mid to late summer.

Do not force the pods open before they naturally split, as the seeds on the inside will not be viable. If you are concerned that the seeds may be lost when the pods open, tie a piece of pantyhose or garden cloth loosely around the pod to catch the seeds.

Another method of passive harvesting is to use mesh barrier bags to catch seeds in your absence, such as these, available from Amazon.

After the pods have begun to split on their own, you may need to break or cut some pieces of the outer hull off to free all of the seeds.

Over time, this will happen naturally, but there’s no harm in helping them along after seeds are ripe.

Harvest seeds and immediately prepare them for planting by scarifying the seed coat. Rub the seed with an abrasive material such as sandpaper, or create a small nick in the seed coat with a sharp knife.

Scarifying can aid in water absorption, which may speed up germination. Scarified seeds should be soaked in warm water for about twelve hours. If seeds dry out, they may lose viability.

If you’re not able to plant the seeds within a few hours after harvest, place them in a handful of dampened peat moss inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator, and leave them there until you’re ready to plant them.

Observe that each seed has an “eye,” or a small depression, on one end. This is the place where the root will emerge, so you need to plant the seed with the eye facing downward.

The planting medium should be comprised of one part soil or compost mixed with one part peat moss and one part silica sand or perlite.

Plant seeds half an inch deep in starter cells and water well. Keep soil slightly damp, but not wet, while you wait for germination.

Place pots in a warm area. A lidded plastic storage tote can be used, acting as a greenhouse to provide optimum sprouting conditions.

A seed starting tray with a lid works as well, and you can find them at Home Depot.

After seedlings have emerged, be sure that they receive eight to 10 hours of indirect sunlight, and continue to keep the soil moist but not wet.

Alternatively, seeds can be direct-sown at the planting site.

Check out our guide to growing camellia to learn how to choose the best spot and how to care for your plants. Seeds that are direct-sown may not germinate until spring.

Plan to transplant container-grown seedlings to their new home after they have sprouted the first set of true leaves.

If you’re planning to grow camellias in containers, gently turn the seedling and soil out of the pot and shake it off to expose the roots. Use pruning shears to cut the end off of the taproot, which is the longest, thickest root in the system.

Cutting the taproot will encourage the formation of a denser, more fibrous root ball that is more suitable for container growing.

Camellias may be propagated by rooting stem cuttings in much the same manner as one would do for other broadleaf shrubs, such as azaleas or roses. Taking cuttings is the fastest method of propagation.

Begin by preparing potting medium with one part potting soil or compost, and one part perlite or coarse silica sand.

You can either start individual cuttings in their own containers or fit several into a larger pot, providing you space them at least two inches apart. Containers should be four to six inches deep to allow space for the roots to develop.

Cut a branch from the existing camellia that shows new growth, which is typically present in early spring. New growth roots more easily than cuttings taken from dormant plants.

Separate the side branches from the main branch by cutting them apart between the main branch and the first leaf node. You should end up with several small branches of about four inches in length that have at least a few leaves each.

Remove the lower leaves so only the two leaves at the end of the stem remain. Dip the cut end into rooting hormone powder, and push the cuttings into the planting medium two to three inches deep.

There is no need to compact the planting medium by pressing as you would with a seed or transplanted seedling, as looser soil is better for rooting purposes. Mist with water to dampen.

Place the potted cuttings in a clear, lidded plastic storage tote and store in a warm place that receives indirect sunlight. If you have access to a greenhouse or a warm, humid place that is sheltered and has good sunlight, those are good alternatives.

You can also wrap each cutting and individual pot in their entirety with a plastic bag, keeping the bag sealed to keep in warmth and humidity.

Check for moisture daily and mist with water if the planting medium feels dry. Cuttings that dry out will most likely not take root.

It can take two to three months for roots to develop. Watch for signs of the first bud developing on each cutting as this is a sign that the plants are becoming established.

Despite your best efforts, it’s possible that some cuttings may not take root. When buds have formed, gently remove plants from the pot and transplant into individual eight- or 10-inch pots using potting medium as recommended above.

Growth is a good indicator that the cuttings are becoming established, meaning they’re rooting and taking up water and nutrients on their own.

When new sets of leaves are forming and the roots have begun to extend to the edge of the container, plants can be transplanted a final time to their permanent home.

Note that the end of the taproot should be trimmed with garden shears if plants will be grown in containers.

When the taproot is cut, the root system will become more fibrous with a wide spread, needing less depth than it would if it were growing in the ground.

Camellias may drop seed in the garden or landscape when seed pods split open. The pods of different species will mature at different times throughout the year.

These seeds may sprout and begin to grow near the parent plant and can be transplanted to a new location or container.

how do you root camellias

Locate the volunteer seedlings and dig them up carefully, as the taproots can run fairly deep, depending on how established they are.

If you’re planning to transplant to a container, prepare a pot that is about twice the size of the root system with a planting medium mix of one part potting soil or compost, and one part perlite or coarse silica sand.

You may also want to include some of the material that the plant was growing in, such as rotting leaves or mulch, to keep the nutrients those are providing available post-transplant.

Snip off the end of the taproot with garden shears if you plan to keep the plants in containers, to encourage the formation of a more fibrous root system. If you’ll be transplanting to a new in-ground location, you can skip this step.

Place the seedling in a hole you’ve dug that’s about twice the width and the same depth as the root system at the in-ground site, backfilling lightly and pressing the soil down gently with your hands.

Keep in mind that camellias do not like to be buried deeply and the roots should be kept near ground level.

Water the plants to settle them into their new location but be sure not to drown them, as camellias do not enjoy soggy roots.

If the plants will remain in containers, place them in a location with indirect sunlight or partial shade. Water plants to settle, but be sure that excess water drains off well.

Grafting will produce a camellia that has the same features as the parent, and will generally reduce the time it takes for a new plant to begin blooming in comparison to other methods.

It can take quite some time for a grafted camellia to become established, however, so plan to wait a few months before you see results.

In late winter to early spring, choose a rootstock plant that has a stem one-half inch to one inch in diameter. Use sharp pruning shears to cut the trunk off at about four to six inches in length.

The cut should slope at an angle of about 45 degrees from one side to the other. Use a sharp knife to trim the cut so it’s as smooth as possible. On the higher side of the cut, use the knife to make a vertical slot about two inches in length.

how do you root camellias

If you have difficulty making the slit with the knife, use a rubber mallet to gently tap it to the desired length. Be sure to tap gently, as you don’t want to split the trunk too deeply or break part of it off.

Next, choose a healthy branch of the camellia plant you wish to propagate, and cut a segment of about three to six inches in length. This cutting, or scion, should have at least one bud and a few leaves present.

Trim the end of the cutting into a wedged angle to fit the slot. Use the knife to carefully open the slot you made on the rootstock, and slide the scion into the slot with gentle pressure.

Grafting wax, such as Treekote, available from Amazon, can be applied if desired.

Be sure that the cambium layer – the part of the interior of the branch that is bright green, just under the bark – lines up at the union of the scion and the stem of the rootstock. If this layer does not align on both, the graft will fail.

Wrap the graft site with black electrical tape, garden cloth, or an elastic band to hold it firmly in place. Mound a layer of coarse, damp sand around the base of the rootstock to help maintain moisture and heal the graft.

The graft should be completely enclosed in a container or cloche, such as a milk jug with the top cut off or a glass jar, to maintain warmth and humidity. Be sure to seat the container in the damp sand firmly.

Keep the container in place until the graft shows signs of callusing, which is when the plants begin to grow together. This process can take two to three months. Once the site appears to have knit together, remove the container gradually and keep the grafted plant shaded as new growth forms.

how do you root camellias

If the graft shows signs of wilt when the container is removed, re-cover the plant and try again a few additional times. It is crucial to protect the plant from intense sunlight until it is more established.

Plants that will remain in a container can be left as they are and placed in a location with partial shade or indirect sunlight.

If you plan to transplant to an in-ground location, prepare the planting site by digging a hole about twice as wide and as deep as the root system of the potted plant.

Start by backfilling a bit with a small mound of soil at the bottom of the hole to prevent the roots from being buried too deeply. Place the plant in the hole and backfill with soil, gently compacting it with your hands.

The top of the root system should be at ground level. Water well to settle but be sure excess water drains off, as camellias do not like to sit in water. Poor drainage can lead to root rot.

Camellias can also be propagated easily without taking cuttings first, using a method called layering. With this method, you will encourage roots to form on a branch while it is still attached to the parent.

This method generally works well because the branch will be rooted in the same growing conditions as the parent. The best time of the year for layering is in the spring when plants are actively growing.

Choose a healthy branch of about 18 to 24 inches that shows new growth, which will be easier to root. The branch should be long enough to be bent down to reach the ground.

With a sharp knife, carefully make a slit all the way around the circumference of the branch where you plan to cut it free from the parent after it roots.

About one inch below that slit, make another slit all the way around, and remove the ring of bark between the two.

Scrape off any of the bright green cambium left on the branch at the site. Dust the exposed portion with powdered rooting hormone.

Bend the branch down to the ground and mound the soil to cover the exposed portion, or use a wire or rock to hold the branch in place. This method works best if the branch is lying against soil rather than on top of grass.

Once roots develop, the branch can then be cut from the parent and the roots can be dug from the ground, and then the plant can be moved to its new location.

Choose a place with similar growing conditions to those where the parent is growing, with indirect sunlight or partial shade.

Prepare a hole a few inches wider and the same depth as the root system, and add leaf mulch or compost to increase the available nutrients. Place the new plant in the hole, being sure not to bury the roots too deeply.

Backfill the remaining space with soil and press it gently with your hands to compact it, then water to settle it in.

If you plan to pot up the cutting and keep it in a container, prepare a pot twice as wide and deep as the root system and add enough potting mix to raise the top of the roots, where they’re connected to the plant, to soil surface level.

Air layering is essentially the same method as layering described above, but with a couple of key differences.

In the springtime, prepare a branch that is 18 to 24 inches in length in exactly the same fashion as with layering above, by choosing a healthy branch and removing a ring of bark from it.

how do you root camellias

Dust the exposed portion of the branch with powdered rooting hormone.

Wet two handfuls of sphagnum moss and place them on a piece of medium-weight plastic wrap. Wrap the plastic around the branch at the place where the bark has been stripped.

Damp soil can be used in lieu of moss, but be aware that this can be messier if you have to open the pouch to check for rooting and moisture.

how do you root camellias

Secure the plastic wrap in place with black electrical tape, or use two twist ties to secure the ends on the branch. Cover with aluminum foil if birds or other wildlife may disturb the site.

Alternatively, you can use a reusable layering device to make the process easier, such as this air layering kit that’s available on Amazon.

About once a week, check to make sure the medium inside the pouch is still moist. Add a few eye droppers full of water to maintain moisture levels, as this is important during the rooting process.

It can take two to three months for roots to develop, so check periodically by gently feeling the pouch for a change in firmness. Root formation will make the moss or soil inside feel more firm.

If using, you can also remove the foil and observe the moss through the plastic for signs of roots breaking through. If you’re using a reusable layering device, do a visual check for roots every few weeks.

Once roots are visible, the branch can be cut from the parent and planted at the chosen planting site.

how do you root camellias

Be sure to choose a location with partial shade or indirect sunlight, and prepare a hole about twice as wide and as deep as the root system.

Place the plant in the hole, keeping the roots close to ground level, as camellias do not like to be buried too deeply (I cannot emphasize this enough!).

After seating the roots, backfill the remaining space with soil around the root system, gently pressing down to firm and compact the soil with your hands. Water well to settle, but be sure not to leave the roots in standing water.

  • Choose seeds to propagate camellias only when cloning the parent plant is not the desired result.
  • Start with cuttings, layering, air layering, or grafting for plants that will share the characteristics of the parent plant.
  • With all propagation methods, maintaining proper moisture levels is extremely important.
  • Give plants adequate time to form strong roots before transplanting, which can take several weeks to a few months.

How To Grow Camellias From Cuttings | Camellia Plant Propagation From Cuttings

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