“We can all grow roses. We all do grow them. Simply dig the bushes up from one place (the nurseryman does this for us), plant them in another place (the garden), and there you are – result: roses. Simple.” -H.L.V. Fletcher, The Rose Anthology
Old garden roses, also known as antique or historic roses, bring unmatched beauty, fragrance, and vintage charm to any landscape. With proper care, these roses can thrive for decades, gracing your garden with their elegant blooms and graceful growth habits year after year.
Caring for mature rose bushes does require some specialized techniques compared to modern hybrids. This comprehensive guide will teach you how to properly prune, feed, protect, and maintain your treasured old roses for vigorous health and abundant flowers.
Pruning Old Rose Bushes
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Prune immediately after the main spring flowering period ends, not in winter. This allows time for new growth to harden off before cold weather arrives.
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First remove any dead, damaged, or diseased stems. Cut back to just above a healthy outward facing bud.
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Thin out crossing, inner branches to open up the center for better airflow.
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Don’t shear or cut canes too short, Remove no more than 1/3 of the height
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Retain as much of the natural shape and architecture as possible.
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Reduce tall, leggy growth, but avoid creating thick, stubby plants.
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Bend and train flexible canes to encourage lateral branching and more blooms,
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Leave very young or newly planted bushes alone for 2-3 years before major corrective pruning.
Feeding Old Rose Bushes
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Old roses thrive in lean, nutrient-poor soil. Avoid excessive fertilization which can reduce flowering.
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Top dress in early spring with aged compost or organic rose fertilizer per label directions.
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Scatter low nitrogen fertilizers like bone meal in fall to boost winter hardiness.
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Spread alfalfa meal around the drip line in spring for slow-release organic nitrogen.
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Mix mycorrhizae fungus into soil when planting to enhance nutrient and water absorption.
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Spray kelp extract monthly as a gentle tonic, or use seaweed fertilizer twice per season.
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For potted roses, apply worm castings and repot in fresh soil every 2-3 years.
Protecting Against Pests and Diseases
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Remove dropped leaves and debris around plants to eliminate insect shelters.
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Apply horticultural oil spray before buds open to smother overwintering insects.
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Handpick Japanese beetles, aphids, and other pests to control light infestations.
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Apply neem oil to deter common afflictions like powdery mildew and black spot fungus.
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Increase air circulation and reduce watering to keep foliage dry and less disease prone.
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Use organic fungicides with sulfur, copper, or potassium bicarbonate at first signs of infection.
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Trap earwigs, slugs, and snails with beer in shallow containers sunk at soil level.
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In cold climates, mound soil or wrap canes to insulate graft unions from winter damage.
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
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Prune immediately after spring flowering ends.
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Top dress with compost and organic rose fertilizer.
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Install supports and tie in flexible canes.
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Weed thoroughly and apply mulch.
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Water deeply until regular rainfalls begin.
Summer
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Deadhead spent blooms to encourage re-blooming.
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Monitor for pests like Japanese beetles and treat as needed.
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Remove spotted leaves or those with black spot fungus.
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Mist foliage daily to deter spider mites in hot, dry weather.
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Water 1 inch per week if rainfall is lacking.
Fall
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Cut back lengthy shoots after last blooms fade.
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Apply low nitrogen fertilizer to boost winter hardiness.
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Spray dormant oil for overwintering pest control.
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Eliminate weeds and mulch beds before frost arrives.
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Reduce watering duration and frequency as temperatures cool.
Winter
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In cold climates, mound soil 12” high around the bases for insulation.
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Wrap canes with flexible tree wrap and twine for protection.
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Apply antidesiccant spray to help leaves retain moisture.
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Water monthly if dry to prevent root desiccation.
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Prune any excessively long canes that could whip in winds.
Troubleshooting Common Old Rose Problems
Sparse or no blooms: Too much shade, over-fertilization, or improper pruning timing.
Canes dying back: Incorrect pruning, very cold winter, or root damage from overwatering.
Deformed buds: Thrips infestation. Spray neem oil and treat soil with diatomaceous earth.
Stunted yellow leaves: Nutrient deficiency. Top dress with compost and rose fertilizer. Test soil pH.
Black spot on leaves: Improve airflow and apply copper fungicide. Promptly remove infected leaves.
Tightly curled new leaves: Spray young foliage with neem oil every 2 weeks to control weevil larvae.
Black mushy roots: Overwatering. Allow soil to dry out. Improve drainage in heavy soils.
Tips for Success with Vintage Roses
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Select disease-resistant David Austin English Roses for easier care.
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Plant in well-draining loamy soil enriched with compost. Avoid perpetually wet or clay-heavy sites.
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Space plants for good airflow and light penetration to reduce fungal problems.
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Water deeply once per week. Avoid wetting foliage. Drip irrigation works beautifully.
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Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
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Feed lightly, if at all. Overfertilization causes weak growth and fewer blooms.
With proper siting, pruning, feeding, and pest prevention, your heirloom roses will thrive for decades, delighting you with their exquisite blossoms and elegant beauty. Their grace and charm will make them the highlight of your garden.
References
Preparing a Rose Bed
-Old Garden Roses are hardy even in poor conditions, but they will be at their lovely best if planted in a favorable situation with rich, well-drained soil.
-The best place to locate a rosebed is in an open area that receives at least six hours of direct sun daily (preferably in the morning) and allows good healthy air movement around each bush.
-Soil preparation will make a great difference in the health and long term vigor of your roses. Adding a quantity of organic material to the bed before planting will both enrich a sandy soil and break up a heavy soil to allow proper drainage.
-Preparing the soil several months in advance of planting will allow micro-nutrients to become available so that your roses have the best and healthiest of beginnings. We recommend (for the south) preparing a bed in spring or summer for planting in the optimum fall/winter season.
-Upon receipt, plant the roses into the ground.
-Remember to use a high quality potting soil (one that drains well) when transplanting.
-Also remember that roses growing in containers will need more frequent fertilization and watering than those planted in the ground.
-Once a site is chosen, knock the plant out of the container and place directly into the prepared hole. There is no need to spread out the roots or add any soil additives – only water.
-We sincerely believe that mulch is the key to happiness – at least in the garden! A several inch thick layer of mulch applied 2 or 3 times a year means fewer weeds, less water stress, less heat stress, richer soil and healthier plants.
-We use decomposed pine bark on our beds. However, pine needles, leaf mulch, or any weed free material will do the job.
-Rose varieties that have survived for many years are usually drought tolerant, but your plants will look much better in your garden if they get a good deep soaking every 7 to 10 days. This is much better than frequent light watering which encourages the roots to grow near the surface where they are vulnerable.
-Deep watering will encourage your roses to hold their foliage and bloom better in the summer months.
-A soaker hose or a form of drip irrigation works especially well to minimize water waste through evaporation and to keep the rose leaves dry. We suggest soaking the ground until saturated (several hours or overnight).
-If your old roses seem to be unduly affected by blackspot or powdery mildew, they are possibly planted in the wrong spot; too much shade, too little air circulation, poorly drained soil, etc.
-A properly situated old rose should give years of, virtually, trouble-free beauty. This is not to say that the old garden roses never get blackspot. They are disease resistant, but rarely completely disease free.
-The difference is that none of the fungus diseases really debilitate them. They will generally shed any infected leaves, continuing to grow and bloom with healthy vigor.
-If you choose to spray in order to keep the foliage perfect, we recommend using a mild, broad spectrum fungicide on an as needed basis rather than a regular preventative program.
-Aphids, thrips, and other insect pests rarely affect a healthy rosebush severely, but they can damage and disfigure the tender new growth, buds, and flowers. This is particularly irritating in spring, when weve been without roses all winter.
-Orthene, Malathion, or Diazanon, used according to label instructions, should control infestations. Miticide, or a vigorous hosing with water, controls spider mites. If you are worried about toxicity, Safer products are very mild, or, in a small garden, you may enjoy squashing by hand.
-Ladybugs and praying mantises are easily available from many garden supply catalogs. We have found these beneficial insects to be relentless pursuers of aphids and they add a nice cottage-y look to the garden.
-Old roses dont require the stringent and careful pruning that is needed by many modern sorts – in fact, they can sulk and refuse to bloom if pruned too hard. Just a light touch of sharp pruning shears is all that is needed for them to respond beautifully.
-A good rule of thumb is to remove all dead canes and clip back no more than 1/3 of the remaining bush, thus encouraging full foliage and heavy bloom without destroying the vigor and natural attractive form of the plant.
-When a rose bush, like any other healthy shrub, is cut back, it responds by putting on a spur of growth. This tender new growth can get frost or heat-burned, so avoid mid-summer and late fall pruning. Ever-blooming varieties can be lightly trimmed or tip-pruned several times a year since they flower on new growth.
-Roses that bloom only once annually are best pruned after they have bloomed. Their flowers come from wood that has hardened over a winter, so early spring pruning will reduce their display.
-Rose hedges can be shaped easily with hedge shears and roses in a natural or wild setting can be left completely alone unless a hard winter produces some unsightly dead canes.
-If left un-pruned, many varieties of old roses will produce attractive hips to brighten the winter garden.
-Many dedicated rose lovers have secret recipes for rose fertilizers that border on black magic, but we have found that most commercial rose foods and organic fertilizers produce good results.
-The important thing about any fertilizer application is that plenteous water will be wanted; both to dissolve the fertilizer into a form the rose can use and to clean any residue off the bush.
-Chemical fertilizers can burn or even kill a plant if over-used, as many of us know from having killed a favorite rose through generosity.
-Read the label, and when in doubt, remember less fertilizer is better than more.
-Always water heavily. We admit to preferring organic fertilizers (such as fish emulsion or manure) for their beneficial rejuvenation of the living organisms in the soil. Healthy soil grows healthy plants.
-Organic fertilizer can be combined with slow-release pellets (such as Osmocote) to keep container grown roses at their peak. For those who simply want to keep their roses healthy and vigorous, one feeding in spring and another in early fall should suffice.
-For maximum performance, begin feeding about 2 weeks before the last frost date for your area and continue at 4 to 6 week intervals until 6 weeks before the earliest frost date for your area.
-For the last feeding of the year, you might want to use a high phosphorus compound (12-24-12) so that your plant will shift to a slower, tougher growth in preparation for cold weather.
Old roses are a delight to use in the landscape and generally quite easy to train and maintain.
Remember to choose your roses to fit your space, leaving plenty of elbow room for large varieties. The following tips will help you achieve special effects with your garden roses.
-Climbing roses need support whether they are placed against a wall, fence, or trellis.
-On a trellis, this is achieved by attaching the fanned-out canes to the openwork. This both supports the rose and increases the flowering potential, since a rose cane drawn out horizontally will bloom more heavily than one that shoots straight up.
-The same effect can be created by fastening the canes of a climbing rose to the links of a chain link fence or to staples driven into a wall or privacy fence. We recommend using gardeners stretch ties, as they expand with the growth of the rose cane.
-Another way to train a climbing rose is to wrap or braid it around a tall post, creating a pillar rose. Once again, fencing staples or nails can be used with stretch tie to secure the cane. When the rose reaches the top of the post, it can either be trained further along a wire or over an arch, or allowed to cascade outward in an umbrella fashion.
-A true pillar rose is simply a more moderate climber that can be trained up a post, without any loose ends left over the top. Arches, pillars, trellises, fences, or gazebos: however a climbing rose is displayed it will add height and depth to the garden and will also soften and decorate the hard angles of walls and buildings.
-Container-planted roses are a versatile and rewarding landscape option, and almost any rose can be grown this way if the container is large enough. A pot about 7 gallons in size will give the rose roots some room and is still fairly easy to lift and move.
-Its best to match the shape of the rose bush to the shape of the container. Pots of roses can be grouped together or mixed with containers of perennials to provide the colorful effect of a hedge or a flower border.
-Large containers can be stacked to provide a multi-level effect. Some climbing roses can even be used. They may not reach their full size, but they can still make a graceful accent for a balcony railing or patio wall.
-Remember to use containers that have proper drainage and a soil mixture that is rich and drains well. Peat moss and composted manure mixed with sand and top soil or a good potting soil will provide a healthy base.
-Slow-release fertilizers such as Osmocote can cut down on maintenance. Roses in containers usually need water more often than those in the ground. Make sure your plants dont get water-stressed.
Making a Rose Hedge
There are two basic types of hedges – formal and informal.
-A large, informal hedge can replace a wall or privacy fence, or be used to disguise or soften an existing one. Members of the Shrub rose class, most of the Hybrid Musks, several of the Species roses, and individual varieties from other classes such as the China rose, Mutabilis, or the Rugosa, Sir Thomas Lipton, make excellent subjects for an informal hedge.
-This type of rose planting requires almost no care at all other than the basics of feeding, watering, and removing the occasional dead cane. Roses can also be used to create a neat, formal, ever-blooming hedge that offers a great deal more color and interest than the traditional green mustache of shrubbery that hides the foundations of many modern houses.
-The keys to a formal appearance are not in trying to keep the bushes all precisely the same shape (continuous production of new bloom stalks will always make the bushes slightly irregular) and choosing one specific variety rather than trying to mix and match.
-China and Tea roses are excellent for hedges in the 4 to 6 foot range, with Polyanthas useful at shorter heights.
-In order to create a really thick hedge, the rose bushes can be planted in a double row or staggered in zig-zag fashion to maintain appropriate intervals between plants. If the bushes are pruned back hard the first year or two, they will fill out vigorously with uniform thick growth.
-After the plants are established, the hedge can be simply sheared to the required height once or twice a year (late February and late August in the South) and left alone to bloom.
One method of training roses that has been nearly forgotten is called pegging.
-A rose suitable for pegging will have long flexible canes about 5 to 7 foot long. A number of Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals, as Peter Beales agrees, are almost custom-built for this purpose.
-Climbing roses that reach over 7 feet are not good for pegging, because they quickly grow out of bounds and become unattractive.
-To peg a rose, fasten the canes to the ground by pinning them with a hook, or peg. It is important to remember to let new canes harden properly before they are bent down and pegged no matter how unruly they may look; otherwise they may break.
-We peg our roses twice a year, before the onset of new growth (for us it is late January and late August). We use the long 6 to 7 foot canes that have grown in the prior season. Older canes can be pruned away every second or third year to make room for these newly pegged canes.
-The canes can be left with a high arch or fastened nearly horizontal, arranged in a perfect wheel around the center of the plant or swirled slightly depending on artistic desire and available space. There are a number of creative ways to use this method, but the end result is basically the same.
-Pulling the canes horizontal causes the rose to produce flowers at nearly every leaf axil, increasing the blooming potential a hundredfold.
-A pegged rose is generally used as a specimen plant and takes up quite a bit of space, but the incredible floral display and unique shape make it quite worthwhile to try the technique.
Pruning an old Rose Bush
FAQ
How do you rejuvenate old rose bushes?
Remove all spindly growth and any shoots skinnier than a pencil. Thinning superfluous growth increases sunlight and air circulation to the center of the plant, creating a drier environment that is less hospitable to fungal infections. It also stimulates new cane growth, which brings new flowers.
What is the lifespan of a rose bush?
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Quorahttps://www.quora.comWhat is the typical lifespan of a rosebush, and what type of … – QuoraJul 8, 2021 — As with all growing things (animals humans plants insects etc) this depends on the variety and climate as well as seasonal growing conditions. There …
How do I bring my rose bush back to life?
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1. Pruning:Remove dead or diseased branches, and consider a heavy pruning in the early spring to encourage new growth. For leggy or non-blooming bushes, prune back by half.
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2. Watering:Roses prefer deep, infrequent watering rather than daily light sprays. Aim for 2-3 gallons of water twice a week, or until the top 2 inches of soil are dry.
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3. Fertilizing:Apply fertilizer after pruning and watering. Consider using a slow-release fertilizer for perennial flowers. Avoid over-fertilizing, as it can lead to a buildup of nutrients in the soil.
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4. Addressing Issues:If the rosebush is suffering from diseases like black spot or powdery mildew, Home & Garden Information Center suggests using appropriate fungicides. Companion planting can also help deter some pests.
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5. Sunlight and Temperature:Roses generally prefer moderate temperatures and sunlight. If the bush is in a pot near concrete, consider relocating it to a more shaded area or using mulch to keep the soil cooler, says a Reddit user.
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6. Potted Roses:If the rosebush is in a pot, you can rehydrate it by placing the entire pot in a bucket of water to allow the roots to absorb moisture.
What does Epsom salt do for rose bushes?
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Magnesium for Chlorophyll:Epsom salt helps prevent magnesium deficiency, which can cause yellowing of leaves, by providing magnesium for chlorophyll production.
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Sulfur for Protein Synthesis:Sulfur is a key component of proteins, which are essential for plant growth and development.
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Improved Nutrient Uptake:Magnesium aids in the absorption of other vital nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
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Enhanced Flower Quality:Roses treated with Epsom salt tend to have more vibrant, larger, and longer-lasting blooms.
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Disease Resistance:Some believe that Epsom salt can help reduce the risk of fungal diseases in roses.
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Deterring Pests:Epsom salt solutions can also be used as a spray to deter some common rose pests.
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Strengthening Roots:Before planting, soaks in Epsom salt solutions can help strengthen rose bush roots.
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Encouraging Blooming Canes:Adding Epsom salt around the base of the plant can encourage the development of healthy new canes, which are essential for blooming.
How do you care for a rose plant?
Rose care is easier than you think—anyone can grow them successfully. Plant your roses in a sunny location with good drainage. Fertilize them regularly for impressive flowers. Water them evenly to keep the soil moist. Prune established rose bushes in early spring. Watch for diseases like powdery mildew or black spot.
How do you care for vintage Roses?
Soil: Vintage roses prefer well-draining soil with a pH level around neutral (6.5-7.0). Amend heavy clay soils with organic matter like compost to improve drainage and fertility. Air Circulation: Good air circulation helps prevent fungal diseases. Avoid planting roses in cramped spaces or areas where air flow is restricted.
When should you prune rose bushes?
Prune established rose bushes in early spring. Watch for diseases like powdery mildew or black spot. If you’ve been putting off planting a rose garden, don’t be. Roses are just as easy to take care of as other flowering shrubs. Follow these ten essential rules to learn how to grow roses:
What can I do with old garden roses?
Now that you have learned about vintage old garden roses, keep track of your planting ideas, goals, and plans with a printable, editable free garden journal logbook. Choose the pages you want to use and customize them as you wish to record monthly, weekly, and daily garden tasks, lists, weather, and planting arrangements.
Are roses easy to take care of?
Roses are just as easy to take care of as other flowering shrubs. Follow these ten essential rules to learn how to grow roses: Old garden roses also known as antique or historic roses bring charm and fragrance to any landscape with their elegant blooms and graceful growth habits.
How long should you leave rose bushes alone?
Leave very young or newly planted bushes alone for 2-3 years before major corrective pruning. Old roses thrive in lean, nutrient-poor soil. Avoid excessive fertilization which can diminish flowering. Top dress in early spring with aged compost or organic rose fertilizer according to label directions.