How to Grow Gorgeous Scabiosa from Seed

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How to Sow and Plant

Scabiosa may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or sown directly in the garden after frost.

Sowing Seed Indoors:

• Sow indoors 4-6 weeks before last expected heavy spring frost
• Sow evenly and thinly and cover with ¼ inch of seed starting formula
• Keep the soil moist at 70-75 degrees F
• Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days
• As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
• Thin to one seedling per cell when they have two sets of leaves.
• Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
• Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Sowing Directly in the Garden:

• Sow in full sun or light shade and well-drained soil after all danger of frost.
• Prepare the soil by removing weeds and working organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil; then level and smooth.
• Most plants respond well to soils amended with organic matter. Compost is a wonderful form of organic matter with a good balance of nutrients and an ideal pH level, it can be added to your planting area at any time. If compost is not available, top dress the soil after planting with 1-2 inches of organic mulch, which will begin to breakdown into compost. After the growing season, a soil test will indicate what soil amendments are needed for the following season.
• Sow thinly and evenly and cover with 1/8 inch of fine soil.
• Firm lightly and keep evenly moist.
• Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days depending on the soil and weather conditions.
• Thin to stand about 12 inches apart when seedlings are 1-2 inches high.

Planting in the Garden:

• Plant in the garden after all danger of frost has passed.
• Select a location in full sun or light shade in soil that drains well.
• Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
• Most plants respond well to soils amended with organic matter. Compost is a wonderful form of organic matter with a good balance of nutrients and an ideal pH level, it can be added to your planting area at any time. If compost is not available, top dress the soil after planting with 1-2 inches of organic mulch, which will begin to breakdown into compost. After the growing season, a soil test will indicate what soil amendments are needed for the following season.
• Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
• Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
• Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.

• Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
• Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For annuals an organic mulch of shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
• Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. Its best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
• Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
• After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
• Remove spent flower heads to keep plants flowering until fall.
• Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
• Remove plants after they are killed by frost in fall to avoid disease issues the following year.

• Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
• Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For annuals an organic mulch of shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
• Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. Its best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
• Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
• After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
• Remove spent flower heads to keep plants flowering until fall.
• Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
• Remove plants after they are killed by frost in fall to avoid disease issues the following year.

Alternaria Leaf Spot: Small, round reddish brown spots with white to grey centers form on the upper surface of the leaves and along the midrib. The lesions may encircle the stems and cause wilt. This disease is worse in warm, wet or very humid weather. Burpee Recommends: Avoid getting water on the foliage. Remove infected plant parts and do not work around wet plants. Provide plenty of air circulation. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.

Anthracnose: This disease causes a circular spot on the leaf that is slightly sunken. The spots enlarge and turn black. Extended periods of heat and humidity facilitate anthracnose growth. The fungus overwinters in diseased plant debris. Burpee Recommends: Provide sufficient space between plants for good air circulation, avoid overhead watering which can spread the fungus spores, keep a clean garden, remove and discard all diseased plant material and rotate crops. Use a mulch to prevent spores from splashing from the soil onto plants.

Botrytis: This fungus causes a grey mold on flowers, leaves, stems and buds. It thrives in cool wet weather conditions. Burpee Recommends: Remove affected plant parts, avoid watering at night and getting water on the plant when watering. Make sure plants have good air circulation. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.

Powdery Mildew: This fungus disease occurs on the top of the leaves in humid weather conditions. The leaves appear to have a whitish or greyish surface and may curl. Burpee Recommends: Avoid powdery mildew by providing good air circulation for the plants by good spacing and pruning. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.

Root Rots: A number of pathogens cause root rots of seedlings as well as mature roots. Burpee Recommends: Practice crop rotation and do not plant related crops in the same area for several years. Pull up and discard infected plants. Make sure your soil has excellent drainage. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for recommendations.

SCABIOSA GROWING GUIDE: The Ultimate Pollinator Flower

FAQ

Is Scabiosa hard to grow from seed?

Both annual and perennial scabiosa start from seed very easily. Their papery, shuttlecock shaped seeds are large and easy to handle, so it makes seeding a lot easier (compared to the nightmare of foxglove or poppy seeds).

Does scabiosa flower the first year?

Water scabiosa thoroughly after planting. Both annual and perennial types will usually flower in their first year.

Do Scabiosa need cold stratification?

Sow indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost. Barely cover, as light aids germination. Cold stratification for 2 weeks will improve germination.

What month is best to plant flower seeds?

• In the very early Spring (end of January to March) you can sow hardy annual seeds. …
• From March to June you can sow half-hardy annual seeds. …
• In June and July it’s time for the biennials.

How do you grow a Scabiosa plant?

Scabiosa plants also dislike hot, humid weather. Regardless of the type planted, these flowers perform best in full sun and require well-draining, organic-rich soil. The addition of compost, well-rotted manure or peat moss will help enrich the soil. Pincushion flowers are normally grown by seed, though container grown plants may also be available.

Can scabies be transmitted by food?

Scabies is not transmitted by food. It is spread from person to person through physical contact and/or contaminated clothing, bedding or towels that have been used by a person with scabies.

Is Scabiosa easy to grow?

Yes, Scabiosa, also known as Pincushion flowers, are relatively easy to grow. They are considered low-maintenance plants that thrive in well-drained soil and full to partial sunlight. These plants are also tolerant of drought and heat. Does Scabiosa grow well in pots? Yes, Scabiosa can be successfully grown in pots.

How long does it take for Scabiosa seeds to germinate?

Scabiosa seeds need light to germinate, so do not cover with soil. Simply press into the seed starting mix surface. There are two main sowing time options: Sow seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before your last expected spring frost date. Maintain temperatures of 65-70°F (18-21°C) for best germination, which takes 10-14 days.

Can A scabiosa grow in a raised bed?

Scabiosa plants like soil that is moist but well-draining. They can fool you by blooming happily in clay soil for one season, but wet soils during their dormancy will turn your carefree perennial into an annual. If your landscape has heavy or boggy soil, you’re better off growing your scabiosa in raised beds. Can scabies be transmitted by food?

When should I plant Scabiosa seeds?

I try to plant the pods with those ends facing up. To achieve the best results, sow scabiosa seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in your area. If you want to plant your seeds directly into the ground, wait until after your last frost date. Moisten the seed starting mix with water until it’s damp but not overly saturated.