With close to 1,000 species worldwide, salvias are members of the mint family which also includes rosemary, thyme, lavender, and basil. Ornamental salvias are also a relative of common sage, the culinary herb used for cooking. Most varieties are native to hot, dry climates and can be grown as perennials.
John Whittlesey, author of The Plant Lovers Guide to Salvias, says, “Hardy perennial salvias bring strong color and form to the early summer border.” Salvias are a favorite of hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. Their drought-resistant nature and low maintenance make them a perfect choice for an easy-care garden.
Most varieties can be used as perennials in zones 5-9, with some varieties cold hardy to zone 4 or heat tolerant to zone 10.
Full sun, 6 hours of sunlight a day is needed to promote flowering. There are varieties that will also tolerate partial shade. (See more full-sun perennials.)
As a rule, salvias bloom late spring to fall, with some starting a little earlier and others like S. leucantha blooming later.
Flower spikes bloom in shades of blue, dark purple, lavender, red, pink, white and a rare yellow. The stems are square and have narrow, velvety green leaves.
Salvia is a gorgeous genus of flowering plants that includes popular varieties like sage. With their stunning blooms and aromatic foliage, these plants can make a beautiful addition to any garden. However, salvias have a tendency to fall over and flop without proper care and support.
In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the causes of floppy salvias and provide techniques to keep your plants upright and thriving.
Why Salvias Fall Over
There are a few key reasons why salvia stems can bend and topple over
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Insufficient sunlight – Salvias need full sun (at least 6 hours of direct light per day) to stay strong Too much shade will cause stems to stretch and weaken
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Overwatering – Excess moisture around the roots can cause fungal diseases, root rot, and floppy growth.
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Dense planting – Crowding salvias together impedes air circulation and light penetration. This leads to spindly, weak stems.
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Top-heavy blooms – Large flower heads combined with tall, slender stems can cause salvias to collapse under the weight.
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Wind damage – Strong winds can blow tall salvias over, especially when the soil is loose or wet.
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Excess fertilizer – Too much nitrogen leads to weak, floppy growth that is unable to support itself.
How to Keep Salvias Upright
Fortunately, there are several techniques you can use to keep salvias from toppling over in your garden:
Provide Sturdy Staking and Supports
Insert stakes around salvias when they are young and tie stems loosely to the supports as they grow. Opt for bamboo, wood, or metal stakes that are at least 1-2 feet taller than the expected plant height. Trellises and cages also work well for support.
Prune Regularly
Pruning encourages bushier, compact growth that is less prone to flopping. Cut back leggy stems by 1/3 after flowering. Remove dead or damaged branches anytime.
Promote Air Circulation
Allow ample space between plants to prevent overcrowding. Improve airflow by clearing away surrounding weeds, leaves, and debris regularly.
Water Carefully
Allow soil to dry out between waterings. Water at the base to keep foliage dry. Improve drainage by incorporating compost into heavy soils.
Provide Optimal Sunlight
Salvias need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sun is ideal. Provide shade from hot afternoon sun.
Use Windbreaks
Install trellises, shrubs, or screens to protect salvias from strong winds. Avoid planting in wide open, windy sites.
Fertilize Moderately
Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer once in early spring. Excess nitrogen leads to weak growth prone to flopping over.
Loosen Roots Before Planting
Gently loosen pot-bound roots and bury some of the stem to promote stability. Firm the soil gently around transplants.
Check for Pests and Diseases
Inspect regularly for infestations and fungal diseases. Control issues promptly to avoid weakened stems. Improve airflow to reduce disease risk.
Caring for Floppy or Falling Salvias
If your salvias are already flopping over, don’t fret. Here are some tips to get them standing upright again:
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Stake up fallen stems and tie them loosely to supports. Provide cages for extra support if needed.
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Prune back top-heavy, bent, or broken stems by 1/3 to reduce weight and encourage new growth.
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Remove flowers after blooming by deadheading to reduce strain on weak stems before they collapse.
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Water deeply to encourage new root development. Dry soil exacerbates floppiness.
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Move potted plants to a sunnier location or use supplemental grow lights to increase light exposure.
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Divide crowded clumps every 2-3 years in early spring to improve air circulation and light conditions.
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Control pests and diseases immediately to prevent further stem damage. Disinfect tools after pruning diseased plants.
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Reduce watering and nitrogen fertilization to alleviate excessive, weak growth.
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Shelter plants from wind using covers/barriers until the stems strengthen. Provide stakes or cages for added support.
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Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Saturated soil lacks oxygen and leads to root rot.
With proper siting, care, and support, your salvias will stand tall and proud all season long. Pay attention to light, moisture, and spacing needs. Act promptly if stems start to droop or lean over. By following these guidelines, you can get those beautiful blooms right-side up again in no time!
Is salvia a perennial?
Some salvias are considered annuals and others perennials. Among the perennials, there are old-world types that come from Europe and Asia, as well as American natives that come from the western half of the U.S. In addition, some salvias are classified as woody-stemmed shrubs, some are deciduous plants that die to the ground during winter, and others are evergreen.
Salvia is not poisonous to dogs, cats, or horses; however, if ingested in large quantities it can cause temporary stomach upset.
PerennialsDiscover the right perennial plants for your garden.
Color Spires® Violet Riot perennial salvia (Salvia nemorosa). Photo by: Walters Gardens, Inc.
With close to 1,000 species worldwide, salvias are members of the mint family which also includes rosemary, thyme, lavender, and basil. Ornamental salvias are also a relative of common sage, the culinary herb used for cooking. Most varieties are native to hot, dry climates and can be grown as perennials.
John Whittlesey, author of The Plant Lovers Guide to Salvias, says, “Hardy perennial salvias bring strong color and form to the early summer border.” Salvias are a favorite of hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. Their drought-resistant nature and low maintenance make them a perfect choice for an easy-care garden.
Most varieties can be used as perennials in zones 5-9, with some varieties cold hardy to zone 4 or heat tolerant to zone 10.
Varieties 1 to 6 feet tall & wide, with most averaging 2 to 3 feet.
Full sun, 6 hours of sunlight a day is needed to promote flowering. There are varieties that will also tolerate partial shade. (See more full-sun perennials.)
As a rule, salvias bloom late spring to fall, with some starting a little earlier and others like S. leucantha blooming later.
Flower spikes bloom in shades of blue, dark purple, lavender, red, pink, white and a rare yellow. The stems are square and have narrow, velvety green leaves.
How to Care for Falling Salvia
FAQ
How do you keep salvias upright?
Some salvias grow lower and are spreaders. They work well in pots. Make a ring out of something, like an empty plant pot. Gently gather the stems together and slide it around or over. Sink in the ground, it will direct the stems up instead of out.
Why does my salvia keep falling over?
Salvia flops when it’s had too much water, too much shade or too much fertilizer. Usually its from too much water or poor drainage. Dig into the soil around the root ball, it should be damp, but not wet.
What is the best support for salvias?
Cages and Rings: peony supports were designed with peonies in mind but are very useful for other bushy perennials such as salvias. Single or double rings are best placed over the plant early in the season, allowing stems to grow inside the ring for natural support: sedums and the many varieties of nepeta come to mind.