Our detailed growing guide will help you with each step in successfully growing Blackberries and Hybrid Berries.
With their large, succulent, juicy berries, this delicious range of soft fruits are sweeter than wild brambles and better behaved too. Train these vigorous plants along supporting wires for abundant summer harvests. There are even compact varieties for containers if you’re short on space.
Thornless varieties such as ‘Lock Ness’ are easier to train and harvest, yet just as delicious
Hedgerow brambles provide a free harvest for foragers, but for gardeners there are many far more delicious blackberry varieties to enjoy, with fruits that are larger, plumper and sweeter. Several
A plant produced by crossing two distinct parents, often different species, to produce offspring that combine the characteristics of both. Hybrids can occur naturally, but crosses are often made deliberately by plant breeders to produce plants with better yield, improved flowering or vigour, or improved disease resistance.
hybrid berries are available to grow too, blending blackberries (Rubus fruticosus) with near relatives to create richly aromatic tayberries, loganberries and more, as well as other Rubus species such as dewberries and wineberries. These tasty fruits are rarely, if ever, available in supermarkets, so are well worth growing yourself. Most are vigorous plants, requiring plenty of space. They need annual pruning and ongoing training to keep them tidy and within bounds. Their long, fast-growing stems are usually spread out along horizontal wires attached to posts or a wall/fence. But if you’re short on space, there are a few compact varieties that can be grown in large pots. The succulent black or dark red berries ripen over several months, from mid-summer to early autumn depending on the variety. Most crop abundantly, giving you lots of juicy berries to eat fresh, cook in desserts, add to smoothies and make into jam. The fruits are rich in vitamins and antioxidants.
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Fascinating facts about blackberries
Hey there, fellow garden enthusiasts! Imagine steppin’ out into your backyard on a warm summer mornin’, pluckin’ fresh, juicy blackberries straight from the bush for your breakfast Sounds like a dream, don’t it? Well, I’m here to tell ya, it ain’t outta reach! At our lil’ patch here at GreenThumb Haven, we’ve been growin’ blackberries for years, and today, I’m spillin’ all the dirt on how to plant bare root blackberries These lil’ wonders are a game-changer for any home gardener lookin’ to get a head start on a bountiful harvest. So, grab a cup of coffee, and let’s dig into this step-by-step guide that’ll have you growin’ your own berry bliss in no time!
What Are Bare Root Blackberries, Anyway?
Before we get our hands dirty, let’s chat about what bare root blackberries even are. Picture this: a plant that’s been dug up while it’s snoozin’ (aka dormant), with no soil clingin’ to its roots. That’s right, these babies come with their roots exposed, makin’ ‘em lightweight and super easy to handle. They’re usually sold in late winter or early spring when they’re still in their sleepy phase, just waitin’ to be planted and woken up in your garden.
Now, you might be wonderin’ why go for bare root over them potted plants at the nursery? Here’s the deal
- Quicker to Settle In: Bare root blackberries get comfy in your soil faster than potted ones. They ain’t got no pot-shock to deal with!
- Better Root Game: Their roots are often more spread out and ready to grab nutrients, givin’ you stronger plants from the get-go.
- Easier on the Wallet: They’re usually cheaper, and you get more bang for your buck since they’re easier to ship without all that heavy dirt.
I’ve planted both kinds over the years, and trust me, bare root’s the way to go if you wanna see results without fussin’ too much
Why You Should Plant Bare Root Blackberries Right Now
Speakin’ of results, timin’ is everythin’ when it comes to plantin’ these bad boys. The best time to get ‘em in the ground is late winter or early spring, when they’re still dormant. Why? ‘Cause this gives their roots a chance to get all cozy and established before the growin’ season kicks in. If you wait too long, you risk ‘em wakin’ up before they’ve got a proper home, and that’s a recipe for struggle city.
Where you plant ‘em matters just as much. Blackberries love soakin’ up the sun, so pick a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight a day. They also need well-drainin’ soil—nobody likes soggy feet, especially not these plants, since too much water can rot their roots. And don’t forget about space! Dependin’ on the variety, they can spread out quite a bit, so give ‘em room to breathe. I usually space mine 3-5 feet apart, with rows about 8-10 feet from each other, just to keep things tidy.
Gettin’ Your Soil Ready for Blackberry Magic
Alright, let’s talk dirt. Preppin’ your soil is like layin’ down a good foundation for a house—if it ain’t right, nothin’ else will be neither. Blackberries dig slightly acidic soil, with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. If you ain’t sure what yours is at, grab a cheap soil test kit from the store. I’ve skipped this step before, thinkin’ I knew better, and let me tell ya, my plants weren’t too happy about it!
Once you’ve got your pH sorted, mix in some organic goodness like compost or well-rotted manure. This stuff helps with drainage and packs in nutrients for your plants to munch on. Work it into the top few inches of soil, and if your ground’s heavy or clay-like, consider raisin’ the bed a bit to keep water from poolin’. We learned that the hard way after a rainy spring drowned half our first batch!
How to Plant Bare Root Blackberries: A Step-by-Step Guide
Now for the fun part—gettin’ those bare root blackberries in the ground! I’ve broken this down into easy steps so you don’t miss a beat. Follow along, and you’ll be a pro in no time.
| Step | What to Do | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Pick Quality Plants | Choose 1-2 year old canes, about 5/16 inch thick, with plump, light brown roots. No mold or dry bits! | Healthy plants mean better growth. Bad roots won’t survive. |
| 2. Store ‘Em Right | If you can’t plant right away, keep roots moist in damp sawdust or peat moss at 33-40°F for up to 2 weeks. | Dry roots die fast. Keepin’ ‘em cool keeps ‘em dormant. |
| 3. Soak the Roots | Dunk the roots in water or compost tea for 1-2 hours before plantin’. | Hydrates ‘em after storage, gives a growth boost. |
| 4. Dig the Hole | Make a hole or trench 2-4 inches deep, wide enough for roots to spread out. | Gives roots space to grow without bendin’ or crowdin’. |
| 5. Position the Plant | Set the crown (where roots meet cane) at soil level, spread roots out flat. | Too deep, and new canes won’t sprout easy. |
| 6. Backfill Soil | Fill the hole with soil, press gently to nix air pockets. | Air pockets can dry out roots—bad news! |
| 7. Water Deeply | Give ‘em a good soak to settle the soil around the roots. | Helps roots make contact with soil, no dry spots. |
| 8. Mulch It Up | Add 2-3 inches of organic mulch like bark or leaves around the base. | Keeps moisture in, weeds out, and roots happy. |
There ya have it! Once they’re in, water daily for the first week, then cut back to 1-2 times a week if it ain’t rainin’. And don’t skimp on that mulch—I learned the hard way that weeds can take over quicker than you can say “blackberry pie”!
Aftercare: Keepin’ Your Blackberries Thrivin’
Plantin’ is just the start, folks. If you want them juicy berries, you gotta give your plants some TLC. Here’s what we do at GreenThumb Haven to keep our bushes happy:
- Waterin’ Schedule: Keep the soil moist but not swampy. Aim for 1-2 inches of water a week, whether from rain or your hose. New plants need extra love the first few weeks, so don’t let ‘em dry out.
- Support Systems: Most blackberries, ‘specially trailin’ varieties, need a trellis or wires to grow on. Set this up early—space wires about 18 inches apart, startin’ 1-1.5 feet off the ground. It keeps things neat and makes pickin’ easier. I’ve got mine on a fence, and it’s a heckuva lot better than a tangled mess!
- Fertilizin’: Don’t feed ‘em right at plantin’. Wait ‘til they’re settled, then use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer—about half to three-quarters of a pound per 100 square feet in spring, and another pound in mid-summer. Stop after July, though, or you’ll get weak growth that can’t handle winter.
- Weedin’: Keep the area around your plants clear. Blackberry roots are shallow, so don’t dig too deep—just an inch or so to yank out competitors. Mulch helps with this too.
The first year’s all about gettin’ those roots strong, so don’t expect much fruit yet. By year two, though, you’ll be in business if you stick with the care.
Prunin’ Like a Boss: Get More Berries
Prunin’ might sound like a chore, but it’s the secret sauce for a bumper crop. Blackberries come in two main types, and each needs a different snip-snip approach:
- Primocane-Bearin’ (Fall-Bearin’ or Everbearin’): These guys fruit on first-year canes. In late winter or early spring, cut all canes down to the ground for a single late summer/fall crop. Or, for double croppin’, tip the tops when they hit 12-15 inches to get side branches, then prune spent canes after harvest.
- Floricane-Bearin’ (Summer-Bearin’): These fruit on second-year canes. After harvest, cut out the old, fruited canes at the base, leavin’ the new ones for next year. Tip first-year canes at 4 feet in midsummer to boost fruit spots.
Regularly yank out dead or sick canes too, no matter the type. I usually walk my patch every few weeks with shears in hand, just to keep things tidy. If you don’t prune, you’ll end up with a thorny jungle that’s tough to harvest—and trust me, I’ve been there, and it ain’t fun!
Tacklin’ Pests and Diseases: Don’t Let ‘Em Win
Nothin’ bugs me more than seein’ my blackberry plants struggle with critters or funky diseases. Here’s how we handle the usual suspects:
- Pests: Watch for aphids, spider mites, and Japanese beetles munchin’ on your plants. I like usin’ insecticidal soap or neem oil—organic and effective. Check leaves often, ‘specially under ‘em, where pests love to hide.
- Diseases: Powdery mildew and cane blight can creep in if air don’t circulate well. Space plants proper, and avoid waterin’ overhead—wet leaves are a disease party. If you spot funky canes, cut ‘em out quick and toss ‘em far from your garden.
- Birds: These sneaky fellas will steal your berries if you ain’t careful. Netting over a bamboo frame works wonders. I set mine up as soon as fruit starts formin’, ‘cause once they’re ripe, it’s game over!
Stayin’ on top of this stuff keeps your plants healthy and your yields high. Ain’t no point growin’ berries just to feed the bugs, right?
Troubleshootin’ Common Hiccups
Even with the best care, things can go wonky sometimes. Here’s a quick rundown of issues I’ve run into and how to fix ‘em:
- Leaves Wilting or Dyin’: Usually means the roots dried out before or after plantin’. Up your water game and keep it consistent.
- No New Canes Poppin’ Up: Could be heavy soil or wrong pH. Loosen the dirt with compost and adjust pH if it’s off.
- Weak, Spindly Canes: Not enough sun or too crowded. Move ‘em to a brighter spot, or thin out the patch.
- No Berries or Tiny Ones: Might need cross-pollination—plant another variety nearby. Or, fertilize more and water steady for bigger fruit.
- Stunted Roots: Poor drainage is the culprit. Raise the bed or mix in more compost to help water flow.
I’ve had my fair share of flops, like forgettin’ to check drainage and losin’ a few plants to rot. Learn from my goof-ups, and you’ll be golden!
Why Bare Root Blackberries Are Worth the Effort
Growin’ bare root blackberries ain’t just about the end result—though them sweet, juicy berries are a mighty fine reward. It’s about the journey, the satisfaction of nurturin’ somethin’ from a scrappy lil’ root into a thrivin’ bush. Plus, you’re savin’ cash compared to store-bought fruit, and you know exactly where your food’s comin’ from. We’ve had bushes at GreenThumb Haven pumpin’ out fruit for years, and every season feels like a lil’ victory.
If you’re new to this, don’t sweat it. Start small with a couple plants, follow these steps, and watch how they grow. Heck, even if you mess up a bit, nature’s pretty forgivin’. I’ve planted canes too deep before, thinkin’ deeper was better, and still got some growth—just not as fast. Point is, you learn as you go.
Bonus Tips for Blackberry Success
Before I let ya go, here’s a few extra nuggets of wisdom I’ve picked up along the way:
- Pick Thornless Varieties: If you ain’t keen on scratches, go for thornless types like ‘Loch Ness’. Makes prunin’ and pickin’ a breeze.
- Container Growin’: Short on space? Some compact varieties do great in pots at least 18 inches wide. Just water ‘em more often.
- Layerin’ for More Plants: In spring or summer, bend a strong stem tip into the soil to root it. Free plants, y’all!
- Winter Prep: In cold zones, mulch heavy around the base before frost hits to protect roots. I pile on straw, and it works like a charm.
There’s always more to learn, but these lil’ tricks have saved me time and hassle more than once.
Get Plantin’ and Enjoy the Harvest!
So, what’re you waitin’ for? Grab some bare root blackberries this season, get ‘em in the ground, and start buildin’ your own berry paradise. It’s a bit of work upfront, sure, but when you’re poppin’ fresh fruit in your mouth straight from the vine, you’ll know it was worth every second. We’re rootin’ for ya here at GreenThumb Haven—drop a comment if you’ve got questions or just wanna share your garden wins. Let’s grow somethin’ amazing together!
What and where to buy
Blackberries are widely available in garden centres and from online suppliers, while hybrid and species berries are mainly sold online by fruit nurseries and other specialist suppliers. They are all usually sold as container-grown plants, but may occasionally be available bare root (without soil), from autumn to spring.
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One of the most widely grown blackberries, it has thornless stems and bears masses of large, glossy, well-flavoured berries. The
A popular blackberry with upright, thornless stems and medium-sized berries full of flavour. The
A thornless loganberry with outstanding flavour. Self-fertile, with large berries ripening to deep burgundy. The
Choose a sunny, sheltered site to get the best crop, although all these berries will tolerate light shade too. They prefer moisture-retentive but free-draining soil. If you have chalky, sandy or heavy clay soil, dig in plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure (two buckets per square metre/yard). Before planting, put a support system of horizontal wires in place – see training blackberries. Each plant will grow to 2.5–3.5m (8–11ft) wide, and up to 4.5m (13ft) for a vigorous variety, so make sure you allow enough space. Winter is the ideal planting time, although plants bought in pots can be planted all year round (but avoid planting in hot, dry weather). Position in the ground at the same level they were growing previously. Prune straight after planting – see Pruning and Training, below. With bare-root plants, these are only available from late autumn to spring, and should be planted straight away. Position with first roots no more than 5–8cm (2–3in) below the soil surface. All these berries are easy to plant – similar to most climbers and shrubs. See the following guides for full details.
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Planting in a container
Most blackberries and their relatives are vigorous scrambling plants that need to be trained onto supports to keep them under control. For the best crop, feed annually and water in dry weather while the fruits are forming.
Water new plants regularly for their first growing season – in dry spells, water every seven to ten days. Well-established plants shouldn’t need extra watering, although if the summer is particularly dry then watering once a fortnight will increase the fruit size. Plants in containers need regular watering throughout the growing season and even daily in hot weather.
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Apply a 7cm (3in) layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, every spring after feeding. Leave a 5cm (2in) gap around the base of the new canes and the crown, to prevent rotting.
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In mid-spring, feed with a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4 or blood, fish and bone. Scatter one and a half handfuls per square metre/yard around the base of the plant.
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It’s easy to produce new plants by rooting the ends of vigorous stems into the ground in spring and summer, known as stem-tip layering. Only do this with healthy young plants, as older plants may carry diseases.
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Guide to layering
Birds will happily eat the berries, so protect your crop by covering with netting, raised up on a frame of bamboo canes, or grow your berries inside a fruit cage. 5
To keep these vigorous scrambling plants under control, it’s best to train them along horizontal wires fixed to a wall, fence or posts. This should be set up before planting. Space the horizontal wires 45cm (18in) apart, with the lowest wire 30–45cm (1–1½ft) from the ground. Most blackberries and hybrid/species berries produce their fruit on stems (or canes) that grew the previous spring and summer. Old stems need to be pruned out and new ones trained onto the supports:
- Pruning should be done every year after fruiting to remove the old, fruited stems at the base, which stimulates new stems to grow in spring for a crop the following year (ie their second year). Left unpruned, plants will grow into a tangled, thorny mass of stems that fruit less well and are difficult to harvest
- Training the stems onto wires has two main aims: to separate the old and new stems, so it’s easy to know which ones to prune out; and to keep these vigorous and usually thorny plants under control, so harvesting is easy. Tying in the stems as they grow is an ongoing process from spring to autumn
For more details, see our guide below.
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How to plant a bare root Blackberry plant
FAQ
How do you grow bare root blackberries?
No berries: Needs cross-pollination. Plant another variety nearby. Berries small or dry: Fertilize regularly and provide adequate, consistent moisture. Roots stunted: Poor drainage. Amend soil with compost to improve. With proper selection, planting, and care, your bare root blackberries will flourish!
When should you plant bare root blackberries?
Planting bare root blackberries in early spring allows the canes to establish deep roots before summer heat arrives. Follow this complete guide for tips on how to successfully plant and grow bare root blackberry plants. Bare root blackberry plants are sold dormant in late winter and early spring Choose bare root canes that
Do blackberries grow bare root?
Blackberries are a delicious and productive crop for home gardens. They readily send up new canes from the roots each season, providing abundant harvests of sweet, juicy berries for years to come. Planting bare root blackberries in early spring allows the canes to establish deep roots before summer heat arrives.
How do you plant blackberries in a hole?
Set your blackberry plant in the planting hole so that the top edge of the root ball (or the crown of the bare root plant) is at or slightly above ground level to allow for settling. It may be necessary to place some of your backfill soil mixture in the bottom of the hole to achieve proper planting height. Step 5 When should you plant blackberries?
Do blackberries grow in groups?
However, they do look attractive in groups and you will get more berries. Blackberries need full sun, well-drained soil and a pH of 6.0-7.0. They like rich soil, so mix in lots of well-aged compost. Plant bare roots in the spring when the danger of severe frost has passed. Soak roots for an hour before planting.
How do you replant blackberries?
Plant blackberries in spring or fall. Soak bare-root plants in compost tea for 20 minutes before planting. Prepare a planting hole half again as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Should I replant blackberries?