How to Properly Prune a Tree Peony for Optimal Growth and Flowering

Tree Peonies are woody perennial shrubs. They bloom in early spring, after woodland peonies and before herbaceous peonies. Their woody structure supports gigantic dinner-plate-sized flowers on plants that can grow up to 7 feet. While tree peonies can take full sun, they thrive in dappled light. After the bloom, tree peonies provide structure to the garden, with deep green foliage in summer that turns bronze and purple in fall. Native to China and cultivated for millennia, these deer-resistant plants thrive in zones 4-9. Some die-back may occur in zone 4 during particularly harsh winters. Tree peonies grow slowly, producing 1 to 6 inches of new woody growth each year. They require well-drained soil. A plant for the landscape. Stately, rare, breathtaking flowers, simply fabulous.

Robbie McMenomey of Visit Our Garden made a fantastic video outlining what tree peonies are and how to plant them. He goes through a lot of the information we have on this care page. This video is well worth a watch!

Tree peonies grow well in zones 4-9. Unsure of your horticultural zone? Click here to go to the USDA website where you can enter your zip code to determine your zone.

First, tree peonies should be planted where there is little competition from the roots of large trees or shrubs. Plant tree peonies 5 feet apart. Remember that your plant is slow growing and will take time to fill in this space, but plan accordingly as tree peonies do not like to be moved. Plant tree peonies 5 feet apart.

Second, tree peonies need a neutral pH and soil that is rich in compost. Like all peonies, they cannot tolerate wet feet and should be planted in a location that is well-draining.

Third, although tree peonies can thrive in full sun, they prefer dappled light. Ideally, your tree peony wants morning sun and afternoon shade, or dappled sun throughout the day. This will give your tree peony ample sunlight while prolonging the life of the flowers. If you grow your tree peonies in full sun, consider using wax paper umbrellas to prevent the flowers from fading, and carefully monitor the moisture in the soil so that your tree peony does not dry out. Varieties with numerous petals will hold up in stronger sun than those with fewer petals.

All peonies need rich soil, good drainage, and a neutral pH. You are looking to create a sandy loam—soil with equal parts sand, clay, and compost. They cannot tolerate wet feet. Do not plant in low-lying areas that retain water, and be cautious when planting close to automatic sprinkler or irrigation systems.

New tree peony plants should be planted 5 feet apart on center, and approximately 2.5 feet from any edge or border. Once you have determined the site, measure the space you have available. If you are planting one plant, then your calculations are simple; if you are designing a larger garden, scroll down for our recommendations.

Think long-term when you are laying out your peony garden; tree peonies will take about ten years to mature, and will live happily with minimal care for decades.

Be wary of planting in areas where snow can fall from roof lines and where snow gets piled by shovels or plows. If your tree peony is planted in such areas, precautions should be taken to prevent the branches from breaking.

As with all cold-hardy plants, fall is the traditional time to plant and historically the only time peony roots were available. Thus, typically peonies are shipped bare root in the fall. They are freshly dug, and should be planted immediately.

PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. They should be planted the first chance you can get a shovel in the ground, regardless of frost or freeze potential. Do not wait for the frost date to plant your peony roots.

PLANT THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Utilize the day or so between cold periods, when the ground is thawed enough to dig. New peonies are susceptible to frost heaving; any peonies heaved out of the ground should be put back to their original location. If it is too frozen to do so, they can be covered in place with soil until the ground thaws or taken in and placed in peat moss in the refrigerator until the ground thaws enough to dig. Do not mulch your peonies; they need the cold to flower in the spring, and mulch will insulate peonies from the cold.

Winter planting occurs from the time the ground freezes solid, until the time the ground starts to thaw.

Follow the same instructions for winter planting as you would for fall planting. Here are some additional tips for the winter months:

IF THE GROUND IS FROZEN SOLID at the time of purchase or delivery, it is best to store your peony roots in the fridge until you are ready to plant. Keep them in the bag as they came, do not add water.

PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. Plant them the first day that the ground has thawed enough to get a shovel in the ground. Do not worry if the ground has the potential to freeze again, or if it will snow.

IF YOUR PEONIES HAVE SPROUTED, plant as above. Make sure to protect new shoots from frost, as they are more susceptible to frost damage if not planted the correct distance underground.

IF THE GROUND IS FROZEN SOLID at the time of purchase or delivery, it is best to store your peony roots in the fridge. Plant them the first day that the ground is soft enough to dig, regardless of future temperatures. Keep them in the bag as they came, do not add water.

If you are planting bare-root peonies in spring, it is likely that your peonies will produce minimal growth above ground the first year. If you are planting peonies that have been grown in pots, there is potential that the buds will wither and the leaves will die back early. Don’t worry, this is normal. That said, diseases are more prevalent on peonies that have been planted in spring. Watch for botrytis and treat accordingly.

There is an old adage when planting perennials: “First year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers.” Getting your peonies in in the spring gets a jump on things, giving your plant a good first spring of root development. Next year you are likely to have a reasonably sized peony with the potential of a flower or two.

The exact way to plant your tree peony depends on the root you received. Peony’s Envy typically sells 3-4 year grafts with ample roots (the middle ). Regardless, make sure you dig a very deep hole and plant your root very deep.

Plan for the plant to mature to 5 feet wide. See Garden Layout for more information

New tree peony plants should be planted 5 feet apart on center, and approximately 2.5 feet from any edge.

Start by digging a hole at least 2 feet deep and 1 foot wide. This will seem like a huge hole, but it is necessary for root growth and drainage. Your tree peony prefers to be planted and left in one location for generations, so it is worth taking the time to do it right. Amend your soil, as mentioned below.

Grafted tree peonies should be planted so that the graft is six inches below the surface of the soil. This deep planting allows the tree peony to grow its own root system and prevents the grafted herbaceous root from growing herbaceous shoots. Any herbaceous shoots growing from a grafted tree peony should be cut back, and planting depth should be checked.

Tree peonies growing from their own root system should be planted so that the point at which the stems emerge from the root is two inches below the surface of the soil. This will promote additional branches to emerge from the root.

Once planted, press down on the soil to remove air pockets around the root and water your tree peony in well. During the first two growing seasons after planting a new tree peony, ensure that it gets a good soaking every two weeks. This will allow the plant to get enough water while the root system becomes established. Remember that peonies do not like wet feet and be careful to not over water. The soil needs to dry out fully between waterings. Watering daily or the use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is essential that your peony be planted in well-draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant. Established peonies are incredibly low maintenance and require little to no supplemental watering, except in times of extreme drought.

As your peony prefers to be planted and left in one location, it is worth taking the time to prepare the soil. Soil prep matters!

Improperly planted tree peony. The blue arrow shows the herbaceous graft sprouting herbaceous stalks. This root was planted too shallowly. When the herbaceous root sends up stalks, it takes energy away from the tree peony and impedes growth.

The roots of a properly planted tree peony. The blue arrow shows the original herbaceous graft. The plant is growing a healthy fibrous tree peony root system above the graft.

We do not recommend planting peonies in pots, especially tree peonies. They do best when planted in the ground. Peonies are long-term perennials that will live for generations.

If you don’t have any space directly in the ground peonies can be successfully grown in raised beds. Drainage is the key to planting in any situation, especially raised beds. The beds need to be at least 2 feet deep to accommodate the deep planting necessary for tree peonies, see above. We line the boxes with landscape fabric and fill them with potting soil amended with compost, worm castings, and crushed limestone or granite. The beds are placed on the existing soil for optimal drainage.

If you have lots of experience growing other long term perennials in pots you may also have success with peonies but it is risky. Make sure your pot is large, more like a planter, is at least 2 feet deep and at least 5 gallons in size – the bigger the pot the better. Commercial potting mixes are available, we have yet to find one that we really like, look for those with extra porosity.

Containers will need to remain outside in the winter as peonies need the cold season to flower (do not bring them inside or store in a warm greenhouse). Be sure that your pots do not continually fill with water, as this will cause peonies to rot. Peonies are especially susceptible in winter when the bottom of the pot can be frozen and prohibit drainage if the weather switches to rain. This factor is easier to mitigate in warmer climates that get fewer extreme freeze thaw cycles.

We also do not recommend having peonies in pots for a few seasons and then moving them to the ground. Peonies should be planted originally in their permanent location. Moving them will cause undue stress to the plant.

It is possible that a tree peony will not produce growth above ground or leaf out the first spring. This can be very scary but typically the tee peony will start to take off the following spring. Even it they do leaf out the first year, do not expect much out of your tree peony. Peonies are very resilient and hardy, but do take time to establish and become a mature flowering plant.

Tree peonies should reach full height and size by year ten. The height, leaf coverage, and flower posture of your tree peony depends on the cultivar.

To choose the best cultivars for your particular garden, it is good to know more about the history and hybridization of each peony plant. This greatly influences how each cultivar behaves in the garden. These factors will also influence the bloom time. The main groups of tree peonies are, in order of bloom:

We will review the characteristics of each type below, with suggestions on how to choose cultivars. We will start with the largest group, the classic tree peonies.

Tree peonies can tolerate more heat than herbaceous peonies and can grow all the way south to Horticultural Zone 9! No additional care is recommended or required for these types of peonies in zones 7 through 9.

Feed After the Bloom Prune for Shape if Needed Water During Times of Drought Weed Around Peonies Watch for Disease

Water During Times of Drought Remove the Leaves in Fall Prune Any Dead Branches Feed Before Winter

Peonies are incredibly cold hard plants. It is rare that light frost will damage plants or flower buds. More severe and prolonged frosts – multiple nights and temperatures in the teens – may damage buds and hurt the pants for the season. If you anticipate a hard or prolonged frost after your peonies have sprouted, you can protect your plants by covering them. Make sure the covering does not touch the plants or you will do more harm than good.

That being said, growing commercially, we don’t have the option to protect our plants from frost. We have acres of peonies, and in our experience, frost damage is rare. This is especially true for tree peonies that are more cold tolerant. If the buds have started to open there will be damage, but if they are tightly closed we typically see a full recovery. Just make sure not to touch your peonies when they are frozen as this will cause them to break, wait until after they have warmed back up.

Planted in full to half-day sun with rich soil and great drainage, tree peonies can thrive almost entirely on their own as the nutrient cycle is self-sustaining. Nonetheless, a little food will help keep your peonies healthy and floriferous.

Feed lightly three times a year—in the fall when you clean up your garden and prepare plants for winter, in early spring just as shoots emerge, and again in early summer after plants have bloomed.

Compost: At Peony’s Envy, we primarily use locally-sourced compost, Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Emulsion, and OMRI-certified worm castings. When applying compost, thin layers are better than thick, and remember to apply at the drip line and not over the center of the plant, since applying on the root will bury the plant too deeply and eventually prevent flowering. For large-scale projects in the area, we recommend Full Circle Mushroom Compost.

Foliar Feeds: Plants absorb nutrients more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. Liquid fertilizers, such as Neptunes Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Nature’s Source plant food, can be used to foliar feed during critical growing times. We recommend foliar feeding in early spring when peonies are setting buds.

Worm castings: When first planting, when planting in pots, or to reinvigorate a garden after long-term neglect, we recommend using worm castings as an extra boost. It is garden gold, and a little goes a long way. As an added bonus, peonies will love its high pH.

If you choose to use synthetic or partially synthetic fertilizers, choose one that is well-balanced and releases nutrients at a slow rate. A 10-10-10 fertilizer is best for spring and summer, and a 5-10-10 is best for fall. Rarely do we use synthetic fertilizers at Peony’s Envy.

After the bloom, unless you are interested in collecting peony seeds, deadhead your peonies to promote root growth over seed formation. Cut the stem just below the spent flower. Removing excess stem will reduce the amount of growth in the following year and should be avoided. This year’s green shoots will become next year’s woody branch.

With the more frequent droughts we have adjusted our tips on watering. Peonies like heavy infrequent soakings; when irrigation is necessary, consider drip lines instead of overhead sprinkler systems. During the first growing season after planting a new peony, ensure it gets a good soaking once a week. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system. However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet, and be careful to not over water. Watering daily or use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is essential that your peony be planted in well-draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant. Established peonies require less supplemental watering but still benefit from heavy infrequent soakings, especially in times of drought.

Peonies are very resilient plants that typically thrive and grow without incident. However, every once in a while a fungus or virus may take hold and impact the health of your peony plants. Although infections generally start in early spring, they often go unnoticed until later in the summer. Left unchecked, these diseases can do real damage to your peonies.

If you are lucky enough to have mature peonies in your garden and they are blooming beautifully, first consider leaving them where they are, as peonies will sulk for a year or two after they are transplanted. If transplanting is inevitable, the time to do this is in the fall when the plants are dormant. If you are in a crunch, peonies can be transplanted successfully at other times of the year, but this is not recommended.

Before you start digging up your peony it is important to prepare the new location as mentioned on our Planting section.

The time to transplant tree peonies is in the fall, when the plants have become dormant. To lift your established tree peony, begin at least eighteen inches from the base of the stem, loosen the plant from the soil with a large garden fork, work your way around the plant, and gently pry it from the ground. The roots will be deep and tough. Have burlap ready to help secure the root ball. Cut off any remaining leaves, being careful not to remove what will become next year’s woody stem. Plant immediately and water in well. Note that when moving a tree peony, it will take several years for it to return to its previous health.

Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) are stunning ornamental shrubs prized for their lush, exotic blooms in shades of white, pink, red, purple and yellow While generally low maintenance, pruning is important for shaping, invigorating growth, and maximizing flowers on mature plants Follow this complete guide to learn when and how to prune tree peonies step-by-step.

When is the Best Time to Prune Tree Peonies?

Timing is key when pruning tree peonies. Avoid pruning in fall or winter, as fresh wounds could allow damaging frost Late winter or early spring before new growth emerges is ideal This stimulates vigorous regrowth and abundant blooms, though some early flowers will be sacrificed. For no flower loss, prune immediately after flowering ends in early summer. But regrowth will be slower.

Tools Needed for Pruning Tree Peonies

Have these tools on hand before starting

Bypass pruning shears for smaller stems
Pruning saw or loppers for cutting thicker wood
Garden disinfectant to treat cuts
Garbage bags for removing debris

Always sanitize tools between cuts to prevent disease spread.

Step-by-Step Guide to Pruning Tree Peonies

Follow these simple tips to properly prune tree peonies:

1. Remove All Dead Wood

First, eliminate any dead, damaged or diseased stems. Cut these unsightly branches back to the base or original bud. This improves air circulation and form.

2. Cut Back Overgrown Stems

If your tree peony is overgrown or leggy, rejuvenation pruning is needed. Identify any wayward stems extending past the plant’s natural shape. Prune these unruly stems back to just above a healthy outward facing bud to encourage bushier regrowth within bounds.

3. Thin Out Excess Interior Growth

Tree peonies tend to become overcrowded thickets of woody stems, especially toward the center. Thinning cuts remove select inner stems to improve air flow and light penetration. Prioritize keeping younger, healthy exterior canes. Removing 1-2 older interior stems every year gradually renovates congested plants.

4. Shape and Control Size

Strategically trim wayward branches to keep the plant’s shape compact. Cutting back longer stems by at least 1/3rd their length redirects energy into lower buds. Also prune offshoots spreading beyond the desired footprint to reduce size.

5. Deadhead Spent Blooms

Finally, tidy up faded flowers. Use sanitized shears to snip off wilted blooms just above a healthy lower leaf. Deadheading keeps plants looking their best. Collect seed pods in fall if desired.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Never shear or heavily prune tree peonies all at once – this can kill them. Take a gradual, minimalist approach over years.
Don’t leave branch stubs – always cut back to a healthy outward facing bud.
Avoid heavy pruning in fall when frosts begin – only remove dead wood once dormant.
Prevent wounds or disease transmission by disinfecting tools between cuts.
Don’t pull off dead leaves – carefully cut them to avoid stem damage.

With proper technique and timing, pruning will keep tree peonies thriving for decades with abundant flowers. Follow these tips for healthy, floriferous shrubs!

how to prune a tree peony

Grouping – 3 Plants

how to prune a tree peony

Small Hedge – 4 Plants

how to prune a tree peony

Fall planting occurs from late August until the ground freezes solid for winter.

how to prune a tree peony

Winter planting occurs from the time the ground freezes solid, until the time the ground starts to thaw.

Follow the same instructions for winter planting as you would for fall planting. Here are some additional tips for the winter months:

IF YOUR PEONIES HAVE SPROUTED, plant as above. Make sure to protect new shoots from frost, as they are more susceptible to frost damage if not planted the correct distance underground.

how to prune a tree peony

Spring planting occurs from the time the ground starts to thaw, through mid June.

how to prune a tree peony

Plan for the plant to mature to 5 feet wide. See Garden Layout for more information

New tree peony plants should be planted 5 feet apart on center, and approximately 2.5 feet from any edge.

Tree peonies should be planted deeply.

As your peony prefers to be planted and left in one location, it is worth taking the time to prepare the soil. Soil prep matters!

how to prune a tree peony

When planting new gardens, it is best to get your soil tested. Here is a link to the Rutgers site that we use in NJ. If you are in another state, please refer to your agricultural extension office for help.
You are looking to create a friable loam—a soft, rich, loose soil made of clay, sand, and compost. Peonies prefer a neutral pH of 6.5-7. Most often, you are looking to raise the pH. You can do this by adding lime and/or wood ash. Ask your agricultural extension for help.
Generally, most dirt is sand and clay. Be prepared to add compost. Sandy soils drain well, but leech nutrition; heavy clay soils drains poorly, but retain nutrition. Compost will help both increase drainage and retain moisture while providing nutrition.
- In very sandy soil, top dress quarterly with a thin layer of compost, as nutrition will leech through the soil quickly.
- Heavy clay soils often have drainage issues; while they will hold onto nutrition longer, they will also retain water. It is therefore essential to improve drainage by adding compost and Greensand (or sand/rock dust) before planting. Additionally, top dressing with compost is recommended.

how to prune a tree peony

The roots of a properly planted tree peony. The blue arrow shows the original herbaceous graft. The plant is growing a healthy fibrous tree peony root system above the graft.

We do not recommend planting peonies in pots, especially tree peonies. They do best when planted in the ground. Peonies are long-term perennials that will live for generations.

The graphics below show growth expectations for tree peonies.

They follow the adage, ‘first year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers’.

Tree peonies should reach full height and size by year ten. The height, leaf coverage, and flower posture of your tree peony depends on the cultivar.

how to prune a tree peony

Classic Tree peonies (Suffruticosa)
Gansu Tree Peonies (AKA Rockii)
Yellow Tree Peonies (Lutea hybrids),

We will review the characteristics of each type below, with suggestions on how to choose cultivars. We will start with the largest group, the classic tree peonies.

how to prune a tree peony

How to Prune a Tree Peony

FAQ

Should tree peonies be cut back?

To improve the shape of your tree peony or reduce its size, cut a few stems back to new buds at soil level, or to within 15cm of the ground.

Do tree peonies bloom all summer?

There are very few plants that can compete with a tree peony in full bloom. They flower from late April to early May, but the season can often vary from year to year. We started to see these gorgeous blooms begin to unfurl just last week – these petals are so delicate and pretty.

What is the difference between a tree peony and a peony?

Tree peonies are actually small shrubs, rather than trees, producing gorgeous, goblet-shaped flowers in May and June. Unlike herbaceous peonies, which die back each year, tree peonies are taller and retain a permanent framework all year round.

Do tree peonies need to be pruned?

Tree peonies can take time to become well established so new plants are best left untouched for the first couple of years. After that, they require very little pruning beyond deadheading and the removal of any dead wood. Use a pruning saw or loppers and a sharp pair of secateurs. In summer, deadhead the flowering shoots once the flowers have faded.

How do you prune peonies?

Begin by gently cutting back the stems to about 2 inches above the soil level. Remember, these precious peonies have been through a lot during their growing season, so be gentle and considerate when you prune back. Dispose of the pruned foliage to prevent potential overwintering of pests and diseases.

When is the best time to prune peonies?

Yes, fall is the perfect time to prune your herbaceous and Itoh peonies. When your plants start to show these signs of wilting and yellowing foliage, it’s time to get your pruning shears out. Here are some expert tips for cutting back your peonies in the fall.

When is the Best Time to Prune Tree Peonies?

Tools Needed for Pruning Tree Peonies