Winter protection is often necessary for most types of garden roses. The extent of protection depends on the type of rose and its location in the garden. Choose only types hardy enough to survive the coldest average winter temperatures in your growing zone.
Remember that the main goal with winter protection of roses is to keep the plant, especially the crown and lower portion of the canes, uniformly cold throughout the coldest winter months. Cold damage occurs due to plant tissues alternating between freezing and thawing, so our goals as rose gardeners is to minimize this occurrence.
Heavy fall pruning of bush roses could mean loss of the entire plant in the event of a severe winter. By leaving 18”- 24″ of healthy canes under mulch you can expect new growth and healthy canes in spring. However, it is advisable to cut extremely long stems back to prevent their whipping about in winter winds and perhaps loosening the soil mound around the rose crown. A good rule for tea roses is to cut less in the fall and more heavily in the spring.
Climbing roses add gorgeous vertical interest to gardens, fences, arbors, and more However, protecting these beauties through harsh winter weather requires some special care Follow this complete guide to properly winterize your climbing roses and ensure they survive the cold months to bloom again next year.
Why Winterize Climbing Roses?
Climbing roses are not as winter hardy as other rose types like shrub roses. Their tall, vertical canes are more exposed to winter winds and weather. The canes can desiccate or crack from the cold. Ice and heavy, wet snow can also cause damage.
To avoid loss of the entire plant, it’s essential to take steps to protect climbing roses during winter dormancy. Specific winterizing techniques can help the roses survive in even very cold climates.
When to Winterize Climbing Roses
Start preparing climbing roses for winter in early fall, around September in northern zones. Stop deadheading spent blooms by mid-September. This allows the plant to focus energy on setting hips and preparing for dormancy rather than producing new blooms.
Continue allowing the rose to harden off through fall. Once the plant is fully dormant, with shriveled and dropped leaves, it’s time to winterize. The timing depends on your zone but is generally late October to late November
In very cold zones, wait until air temps consistently drop below freezing before winterizing. Sudden deep cold snaps before winterizing can damage canes.
How to Winterize Climbing Roses
Follow these key steps to properly protect climbing roses from winter damage:
Stop Fertilizing
Fertilizing too late causes new growth that is vulnerable to freezing. Stop fertilizing 6 to 8 weeks before your first expected fall frost.
Prune Selectively
Do light pruning to remove dead or damaged canes. Avoid major pruning, which stimulates new growth.
Insulate Root Zone
Apply 4-6 inches of mulch around the base of the plant. Shredded leaves or evergreen boughs work well.
Tie Down Tall Canes
For tall climbers, carefully untie long canes from their support. Gently lay them on the ground in a circle around the base of the plant. Cover with another 4-6 inches of mulch.
If canes cannot be untied, leave them tied to the support. Wrap them together snugly with twine to prevent wind whipping.
Protect Remaining Upright Canes
Wrap any canes staying tied to supports with burlap or commercial rose wraps. Use paper tree wrap for very cold zones.
Add Physical Barriers
Place temporary fencing or screens around plants to block wind. Fill cages with leaves around shorter plants. Commercial rose collars around the root crown hold insulating mulch.
Water Well Before Ground Freeze
Water deeply after several hard freezes to moisten soil before it freezes solid. This prevents desiccation.
Wait Until Spring For Major Pruning
Do heavy renewal pruning after winter when you can assess any dieback. Remove dead canes and shape the plant.
Tips for Specific Climbing Rose Types
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Large, tall climbers – These are the most vulnerable to winter damage. Follow all the steps above carefully. seriously consider laying down very long, flexible canes.
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Old garden roses – Many antique roses are somewhat tender. Be vigilant with protection steps like extra wraps and wind barriers.
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Ramblers – These vigorous climbers often need little protection other than stem wraps and crown insulation.
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Hardy shrub climbers – Varieties like hardy rugosas require minimal protection other than mulch and stem wrap.
Protect Container-Grown Climbers
Climbers growing in containers need winter protection too. Options include:
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Moving pots to an unheated garage or shed once dormant. Check water needs occasionally.
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Grouping pots together and surround with straw bales or bags of leaves.
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Storing tender varieties in a cool greenhouse if possible.
With proper preparation and protection through winter, your climbing roses will thrive again when spring arrives. Paying attention to their particular needs helps ensure their health and vigor season after season.
Hybrid Tea and Floribunda Roses
Avoid applying winter protection until hard frosts have killed any remaining leaves. Once the leaves have fallen, take special care to clean up and dispose of leaves and diseased or damaged stems to minimize risks of disease carry over. Consider allowing rose plants to go through several nights with temperatures in the mid-teens to ensure dormancy prior to protecting. After this period, use any of the following procedures to protect hybrid tea and floribunda roses.
- Prune back vigorous canes which may be damaged by winter winds. Make pruning cuts 1/4″ above an outward pointing bud so that new growth will be started in the right direction.
- Tie the canes together with twine.
- Mound soil around the base of the plant to a height of 10-12″. Bring in additional soil; do not rake it up from the base of the plant.
Make pruning cuts 1/4″ above an outward pointing bud Credit: R. Trexler
Tarpaper or Wire Mesh Collars
- Prune only to adjust the size of the plant to its winter covering.
- Tie the canes together with twine.
- Make a collar from heavy tarpaper or hardware cloth (available at hardware stores) and fasten edges together to form a cylinder.
- Place the collar over the plant and fill it with a coarse mulching material such as peat moss, pine bark, shredded leaves, or straw.
- When the collar is filled, tie pieces of burlap over the top to keep the mulch in place.
- Mound soil to a depth of 10”-12″ around the base of the collar.
Credit: R. Trexler
- No pruning is necessary, other than to remove canes rubbing together and those growing inward toward the center of the bush.
- Tie the canes together with twine.
- Bind with evergreen boughs and burlap.
- Mound soil to a depth of 6”-8” around the base.
Credit: R. Trexler
Climbing roses should be pruned in midsummer after the plants have stopped blooming and all the blooms have faded. Prune all the flowering canes close to the roots so that new growth will harden off by winter. Climbing roses will still need protection from winter injury. Depending on where the roses are located, either of the following procedures can be used:
If your roses are growing in a fairly protected area out of harsh winds and extreme temperatures, wrapping with burlap or evergreen boughs will give sufficient winter protection.
- After the first hard frost of the fall, secure canes to their support and prune off long ends.
- Next, wrap the canes in burlap, straw, or evergreen boughs and tie with twine.
- Mound 10”-12” of soil around the base of the plant.
In extremely cold areas or open areas where winter damage is common, the best way to protect a climbing rose is to shield the entire plant with earth.
- After the first hard frost of the fall, detach the plant from its support and tie its canes together.
- Bend the canes to the ground arching them near the plant’s base to avoid breaking.
- Pin the canes down with crossed stakes to heel in canes.
- Mound the soil over the entire plant and drive a stake into the ground at each corner of the mound to mark the spot.
Updated: November 2016
Pruning Climbing Roses! ✂️ // Garden Answer
FAQ
Do you cut back climbing roses for winter?
Repeat-blooming climbers are pruned in the winter or very early spring when the plants are dormant.
Do I need to cut back my knockout roses for winter?
Cease pruning about 45 to 60 days before the average first frost date in your area. That’s about it. See, that was easy! Plant Long and Prosper!Aug 31, 2016
What to use to cover roses for winter?
If your roses are growing in a fairly protected area out of harsh winds and extreme temperatures, wrapping with burlap or evergreen boughs will give …