Monstera deliciosa is commonly referred to as Swiss cheese plant, Mexican breadfruit, and hurricane plant. It grows as an understory plant in its native Central America and became a popular houseplant in the United States in the 1950s thanks to the plants large, tropical foliage and ease of care.
Today, M. deliciosa is typically available wherever tropical houseplants are sold. Most varieties feature solid green leaves while the variegated forms are usually rarer.
In nature, the M. deliciosa is a vining plant, attaching to tree links and trunks with its aerial roots. A mature plant may reach more than 50 feet long and may be considered invasive in its native habitat.
M. deliciosa has distinctive leaves that are glossy green, heart-shaped, perforated, and deeply lobed and can reach up to several feet in width. Younger plants will lack perforations and deep lobes. M. deliciosa may be mistaken with the plant Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (both were formerly in the genus Philodendron) and incorrectly called “split-leaf philodendron. ” To help tell them apart, remember M. deliciosas nickname: the Swiss cheese plant. Mature M. deliciosa plants have small holes in their leaves much like Swiss cheese whereas T. bipinnatifidum only has deep cuts.
Much like a peace lily or jack-in-the-pulpit (both belong to the same family as M. deliciosa: Araceae), M. deliciosa has a flower that consists of a white spike (spadix) and a sheath (spathe). As the sheath dies back, the spike transforms into a fruit. The fruit is ripe when the scales on the outside of the fruit start separating, showing the yellow-white flesh.
M. deliciosa do not form flowers or fruit as houseplants. While our homes may reach appropriate air temperatures, our indoor environments lack adequate humidity.
As a proud plant parent of a beautiful Monstera deliciosa, nothing makes you happier than watching those iconic split leaves unfurl But then one day you notice your Monstera only has a single stem Now what?
Don’t panic! Having a Monstera with just one stem is totally normal early on With a little TLC and patience, you can encourage your one-stemmed wonder to grow into a lush, multi-stemmed tropical showstopper.
Why Monstera Starts Out With One Stem
In nature Monstera begins life as a seedling with a solitary stem. This lone stem focuses all its energy on developing sturdy roots and a few initial leaves. Only later does it start branching out with additional stems.
When you first bring home a young Monstera plant from the nursery, it likely only has one stem since it’s still just a baby. Give it more time to mature and it will naturally start sprouting new stems from the base. But you can also take steps to actively encourage stem growth.
Be Patient – Maturity Brings New Stems
The most important thing is to be patient. As a Monstera plant matures over a few years, it will naturally start generating new stems. Here’s a general timeline:
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Year 1: One original stem from when planted as a seedling. Focus is on root and leaf growth.
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Year 2: Basal offshoots emerge from the soil next to the original stem. The plant now has multiple main stems.
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Year 3+: Mature Monstera produces aerial roots that form additional stems above soil level. A mature plant can have 5+ stems.
So try not to worry if your Monstera only has one stem right now. With a little time it will gain the iconic multi-stemmed form.
Encourage Basal Stem Growth
While Monstera stems will develop naturally as the plant matures, you can encourage the process by providing ideal growing conditions. Here are some tips:
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Pot size: Ensure the pot is large enough to accommodate root and stem growth. Re-pot annually in a pot 2-4 inches larger.
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Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix. Monstera prefer slightly acidic soil with nutrients.
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Sunlight: Bright indirect light encourages growth. Direct sun can scorch leaves.
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Water: Water thoroughly when top inch of soil is dry. Too much or too little water inhibits growth.
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Fertilizer: In spring and summer, use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to 1⁄2 strength every 2-4 weeks.
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Pruning: Cutting back the plant sometimes stimulates basal stem growth, but research pruning risks first.
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Staking: Add a moss pole or plant support for the main stem to climb. This allows more light to reach lower parts of the plant and encourages basal offshoots.
By providing ideal conditions, you make it easier for your Monstera to direct energy towards new stem production.
How to Propagate New Stems
If you don’t want to wait for new stems to naturally emerge, propagation is an option. Here are two methods to multiply your single-stemmed Monstera:
Air Layering
This technique coaxes aerial roots to form a new stem:
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Select a healthy leaf node on the main stem with a bit of exposed aerial root.
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Wrap moist sphagnum moss around the node and cover with plastic wrap.
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Once aerial roots grow into the moss, sever below the node to create a new plant.
Stem Cuttings
You can also root stem cuttings in water or soil:
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Take a cutting with 1-2 nodes from the upper part of the main stem.
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Remove lower leaves and place in water or potting mix.
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Roots and new growth will emerge in a few weeks, creating a new stemmed plant.
While propagation takes longer than just waiting for natural basal stems, it does allow you to multiply special varieties of Monstera.
Transforming Your Single Stem Monstera
If all else fails, you can simply cut back your Monstera’s leggy single stem to force new shoots. Here’s a drastic option to completely rejuvenate your plant:
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Trim the main stem down to just 6-12 inches above the soil.
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New shoots will emerge from lower nodes within a few weeks.
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Once basal stems reach 6 inches, remove the cut back original stem.
This technique shocks the plant and causes rapid basal branching. But take care not to over-cut the main stem or remove too much foliage.
One Stem Won’t Limit Growth
The takeaway is that your Monstera’s solitary stem isn’t necessarily a problem to fret over. In fact, it’s totally normal for young Monsteras to have just one stem at first. With a little time and care, those basal shoots will start popping up.
Stay patient, provide proper care, and consider propagation if you’re eager for your Monstera to branch out. No matter what, that single stem will eventually mature into the iconic split-leafed beauty Monstera is prized for.
So embrace the journey of raising your Monstera from one stem to many! The most rewarding plants are those you nurture from a vulnerable seedling into a thriving, multi-stemmed specimen.
Propagation by stem cuttings
Follow these steps to ensure your Monstera deliciosa stem cutting roots successfully.
- Find a node with an axillary bud (refer to the Monstera propagation map). Multiple leaves on your cutting promote better rooting through photosynthesis.
- Cut 1 to 2 inches below the node, along the internode. If using auxin, rub along the cutting’s node.
- Moisten the rooting medium.
- Make a hole in the medium and insert your cutting.
- Keep cuttings moist.
- Check for root development by lifting your cutting carefully using a popsicle stick, plant transplant or small spatula.
- If roots are few or haven’t yet developed, put your cutting back into the medium.
- If roots have developed, you can transplant your cutting.
- Transplant your cutting into a new container filled with moist potting soil. Leave about 2 inches of media between your cutting and your container.
M. deliciosa can be propagated in a variety of media. The main purpose of rooting media is to maintain moisture and to support the cutting and its root development. It must also drain well to prevent the cuttings from rotting.
- Perlite: Provides support for the new plants, and oxygen and moisture to roots. Perlite is the most common medium used for Monstera deliciosa cuttings.
- Potting soil: This media can be purchased in garden centers, hardware stores and online. It provides support for new roots and good drainage.
- Potting soil should be kept moist to prevent the cuttings from drying out.
- Excessively wet, cool soil can cause damping off disease.
- Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate (LECA): Because of its excellent drainage, LECA can be watered more frequently without increasing the potential for damping off disease.
- LECA can be purchased online and at stores that specialize in propagation and hydroponics. It may be more expensive than other media, but can be reused.
- Water: Monstera cuttings can be rooted in plain water.
- Pros: In water, you can observe root growth, the plants are also easy to care for and they don’t require much space. The water should be changed when it becomes cloudy.
- Cons: Plant roots grown in water are weaker than those grown in solid rooting media. Woody plants such as citrus and hibiscus tend to rot when rooted in water.
Auxin is a plant hormone and a common plant growth regulator (PGR) that stimulates rooting, shooting, and blooming when propagating plants. Although auxin is found naturally within plants, applying auxin to a plant cutting can encourage cell division and improve the plant’s ability to develop longer root cells. Rooting hormone is available in powder, liquid and gel formats and can be purchased at garden centers and online.
Although M. deliciosa may root without additional hormones, auxin can promote faster rooting and dense root growth. Apply rooting hormone powder to the node before placing the cutting in the rooting medium. Auxin may also be added directly to water to encourage new rooting.
Containers of various materials and sizes can be used for growing plants: ceramic, plastic or resin pots, plastic food containers — there are few limits to what you can use.
Avoid containers that have been used for storing chemicals. Examples include pesticide containers, buckets used for asphalt sealant, and gasoline and oil cans.
When choosing a container for your cuttings, consider the size of your cutting, support and drainage.
- Monstera cuttings are top heavy, so select a heavier container to prevent tipping over. Containers might be made of terracotta, glazed ceramic or resin.
- Containers should be at least 4 inches in diameter and 5 inches deep. A one-quart nursery pot is also a good choice.
- Avoid containers that are too large as it is harder to gauge the moisture level of the media, which can lead to over or under watering.
- As a plant grows, transplant it into a slightly larger container.
- Provide support for your cutting until roots are formed.
- Stake your cutting by tying it to a bamboo stake with a piece of nylon stocking of cotton rag.
- When your cutting is successfully rooted and transplanted into a longer-term container, you can buy or build trellising to support and encourage your Monstera plant to climb.
- It is important to grow your cuttings in containers with good drainage.
- Your container should have at least one hole about the diameter of a pencil.
- Poor drainage and too much moisture can cause new roots on your cutting to rot.
Propagation Monstera propagation map
Monstera deliciosa can easily be propagated from stem cuttings, air layering or division as long as each division includes a node (the point where a leaf develops on a stem). Cuttings that lack a node and axillary bud, such as the leaves, will not produce new growth and ultimately will rot.
The leaves and petioles of M. deliciosa will not grow on their own because new growth comes from axillary buds and nodes on the stem.
Cuttings may be taken at any time of year. We recommend supplemental lighting in the early morning or late afternoon for 2 to 3 hours and misting your plant every 2 to 3 days.
How to set up your Monstera for success
FAQ
How to get more monstera stems?
Monstera deliciosa can easily be propagated from stem cuttings, air layering or division as long as each division includes a node (the point where a leaf develops on a stem). Cuttings that lack a node and axillary bud, such as the leaves, will not produce new growth and ultimately will rot.
What are you supposed to do with monstera aerial roots?
An often touted hack is to put your monstera’s aerial roots in water. The theory is that this helps it absorb more moisture to stay healthy.Apr 1, 2025
Does my monstera need a pole?
Yes, a monstera plant can benefit from a moss pole, but it’s not always a necessity, especially when the plant is young. A moss pole provides support for the monstera as it climbs, encouraging larger leaves and a more upright growth habit.
How to fix a lopsided monstera?
A monstera plant grows towards the sunlight. So if your monstera only receives sunlight from one direction, then it might begin to grow towards the light. This can cause it to look like it is falling over and very lopsided. If this is the case for you, try to rotate the plant on a regular basis.