Transform Your Trees with Pollarding – See the Dramatic Before and Afters

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Robby

Pollarding is an intense pruning technique that involves cutting back the branches of a tree to just above the trunk. It results in a striking “knuckle” or “bole” shape that is quite different from a tree’s natural form. For those considering getting their trees pollarded, the before and after photos can look shockingly different! While pollarding may seem extreme it does not actually harm trees and can help them live longer healthier lives. Read on to learn all about pollarding trees, see some wild before and after examples, and decide if it is the right choice for your landscape.

What is Pollarding?

Pollarding is a pruning system that removes the vertical branching structure of a tree by cutting branches back to stubby knuckles near the trunk, This forces the tree to grow a dense ball of foliage at the top instead of long horizontal branches, The knuckles that form can look quite unusual and knobby,

Pollarding is typically started when trees are young saplings or poles, before the branches become large and heavy. Then it is repeated every 1-3 years. With each prune cycle, new shoots sprout from the knuckles, creating more knuckles and increasing the gnarled knobby appearance.

Pollarding is used to:

  • Control tree height and spread for overhead wires, structures, or desired shapes
  • Increase light below the crown
  • Promote dense foliage for privacy screens or borders
  • Reduce shade cast by trees
  • Limit tree size in urban areas or under powerlines
  • Create interesting ornamental branching structures

Proper pollarding does not harm trees. In fact, by removing heavy limbs it can extend the lifespan and improve the health of pollarded trees.

Pollarding Before and After Pictures

To understand the dramatic effects of pollarding it helps to see some before and after photos. The transformations are striking!

Linden Tree Allée

This allée of linden trees shows the progression of pollarding over 3 years. The before photo shows the trees at their original natural shape and height. In the first year after pollarding, the knuckles at the ends of branches are small nubs. By the third year, the knuckles have enlarged and the canopy has filled in.

Linden tree allée before pollarding
Linden trees before pollarding

Linden trees 1 year after first pollard
1 year after first pollard

Linden trees 3 years after pollarding
3 years after pollarding

Black Locust Trees

These black locust trees in a park setting show an even more dramatic shift. The before photo shows the tall, upright trees lining a pathway. After pollarding, the trees are transformed into short, wide lumps.

Black locusts before
Black locusts before pollarding

Black locusts after
Black locusts after pollarding

Weeping Willow

Weeping willows are commonly pollarded to control their size and shape. This weeping willow was pollarded to reduce its height and spread. The before shows the long drooping branches and after shows the knobby knuckles cut back to the main stems.

Weeping willow before pollarding
Weeping willow before pollarding

Weeping willow after pollarding
Weeping willow after pollarding

When to Pollard Trees

The best time to pollard trees is during winter dormancy, before new growth begins in spring. This reduces stress on the tree and allows wounds to heal quickly. Avoid pollarding during spring and summer active growth periods.

For young trees just starting pollarding, begin when they reach the desired initial pollarding height, from 4-8 ft. For established pollarded trees, prune every 1-3 years to control regrowth.

Take care not to remove too much live wood when pollarding or cut into branch collars. This can lead to decay and weak branching structure over time. A qualified arborist can assess your trees and determine proper pollarding technique.

Pollarding Benefits

While pollarding may seem extreme or even harmful, proper pollarding done by a professional provides many benefits:

  • Extends lifespan by removing heavy limbs
  • Maintains trees at desired heights
  • Encourages dense foliage for privacy
  • Allows more light below canopy
  • Reduces hazard of large falling branches
  • Shapes trees into interesting forms
  • Provides renewable pruning wood

Is Pollarding Right for Your Trees?

Pollarding is not for every tree, but it can be useful for managing trees in confined urban areas or near structures and wires. Consider pollarding if your trees are:

  • Growing too large for their planting space
  • Blocking views or sunlight
  • Extending near rooflines or powerlines
  • Shading gardens or walkways
  • Developing overly long leveraged branches

If you are interested in pollarding your trees, consult an ISA certified arborist. They can assess your specific trees and situation to determine if pollarding will benefit your landscape goals. With proper technique and timing, pollarding can allow you to maintain healthy trees at smaller sizes without harming their health.

The dramatic before and after pollarding pictures clearly show its transformative effects. If your trees need better height control or density, consider pollarding. With regular pruning cycles, you can enjoy the unique knobby knuckled forms as living sculpture in your landscape.

A Brief History of Pollarding Trees

The practice of pollarding trees has been around for centuries. It likely originated as a way to produce wood for fuel and building materials in areas where space was limited. By cutting trees back to the trunk, you can drastically reduce their size while still getting a renewable supply of branches.

Historically, pollarding was very common in Europe. Trees were heavily pollarded in urban areas, orchards, pastures, and along transportation routes. The technique helped provide wood while keeping trees compact and out of the way.

Today pollarding is still used in cities, under utility lines, and in other confined areas. While not as widespread as in the past, it remains an important tree management tool.

Benefits of Regular Pollarding

While initially jarring, regular pollarding provides many benefits:

  • Control size – Keeps trees compact, prevents overgrowth
  • Let in light – Opens up gardens and landscapes
  • Reduce safety hazards – Prevents heavy branches from falling
  • Prolong life – Reduces stress and decay risk
  • Interesting forms – Gnarly knuckles create living sculpture
  • Renewable wood – New shoots provide pruning material

When done properly on suitable trees, pollarding is not harmful. In fact it can improve tree health.

Best Trees for Pollarding

Not all trees take well to being pollarded. The best candidates are vigorous growers that readily sprout new shoots when pruned back hard. Some top trees for pollarding include:

  • Linden (Tilia)
  • London Plane (Platanus acerifolia)
  • Maple (Acer)
  • Mulberry (Morus)
  • Willow (Salix)
  • Elm (Ulmus)
  • Lime (Tilia x europaea)
  • Oak (Quercus)

Many fruit trees are routinely pollarded in orchards to control size and encourage fruiting wood.

Talk to an arborist about whether pollarding is appropriate for your specific trees. Some older specimens may not react well. But on suitable young trees, pollarding can be very beneficial.

Pollarding Technique

Proper technique is crucial when pollarding trees. Here are some key tips:

  • Start pollarding young – Trees under 10 years establish the best
  • Time it right – Pollard during dormancy, before spring growth
  • Cut cleanly – Make cuts just above the knuckle, don’t leave stubs
  • Remove inward and shaded branches – Outward facing buds will sprout best
  • Don’t remove too much – Leave some buds and branches as reserves
  • Space cuts – Distribute knuckles evenly around the trunk

Taking off too much foliage and branches can stress trees. Leave some reserves and distributed knuckles.

Be sure to make clean cuts right above buds or branches. Don’t cut into the branch collar. Smooth cuts will callous over better.

Repeat pollarding every 1-3 years once established. This will encourage abundant water sprouts at the knuckles.

Pollarding Maintenance

The key to great pollarded trees is consistency. Like a haircut, they need regular pruning cycles to look their best.

  • First pollarding – When young trees reach desired pollarding height
  • Subsequent cycles – Every 1-3 years depending on growth rate
  • Remove water sprouts – Annually for cleaner look if desired
  • Watch for decline – Adjust if tree struggles with hard pruning

Proper aftercare is also important. Keep the root zone watered and fertilized to support the flush of new growth.

Eventually, a profusion of knuckles will form. Some may grow together, creating gnarly knots and interesting shapes. This is part of the unique character of pollarded trees.

With regular pollarding and care, you can maintain healthy compact trees for decades to come. The before and after transformations can be remarkable.

Pollarding Safety Precautions

While pollarding has many benefits, it also involves hazardous cutting practices. Here are some key safety tips:

  • Use a professional – Proper tools and experience reduce risk
  • Wear protection – Helmet, goggles, ear protection, chainsaw chaps/pants
  • Clear area – Cordon off zone to avoid falling branch hazards
  • Look for hazards – Scan for and remove dead/damaged wood first
  • Proper stance – Solid secure footing for balance while cutting
  • Controlled cuts – Cuts should not tear branches, use proper support
  • Careful with ladders – Set up properly on stable ground

Have crew support ladder for climber. Use ropes to carefully lower large branches once cut.

Pollarding is best left to qualified arborists with specialized tools, training, and safety gear. Proper procedure is a must.

Pollarding pros and cons

Pollarding certainly has a striking effect and provides many benefits. But it is not ideal for every situation. Consider these key pros and cons when deciding if it is right for your landscape.

Pros of pollarding trees:

  • Control size in confined areas
  • Let in more light below canopy
  • Promote dense foliage for privacy
  • Reduce safety hazards from falling limbs and branches
  • Prolong life of tree by limiting limb weight and decay
  • Create interesting shapes and textures

Cons of pollarding trees:

  • Shocking appearance, especially right after pollarding
  • Needs regular maintenance pruning cycles
  • Not all trees respond well – can stress or damage some species
  • Encourages dense sprouts which some may consider messy
  • Can leave trees more exposed to weather and decay

Overall pollarding is extremely useful in the right contexts such as street trees or urban plantings. But it may not suit more natural open environments. Consider the pros and cons carefully before deciding to pollard landscape trees.

Alternatives To Pollarding

Pollarding certainly has its place, but is not always the best option. Some alternatives to pollarding include:

Judicious pruning – Removing select branches often sufficient to reduce size and safety hazards. Much less extreme than pollarding.

Crown reduction – Shortening branches back to lateral shoots. Less stressful and more natural looking than pollarding knuckles.

Crown raising – Removing lower branches to lift canopy up off ground. Can reduce safety risks without sacrificing overall height.

Replacement – For some overgrown trees, it is better to remove and replant with a smaller species. Especially if the tree is declining or poorly suited to its location.

Careful species selection – Choose species with genetics and growth habits appropriate for site conditions and available space. Prevents problems down the road.

In many cases, less radical options may suit the goals for managing tree size and safety hazards. Consider all options before resorting to pollarding, which is still best suited for urban trees.

Pollarding is an extreme pruning method that involves cutting tree branches back to knuckles at the trunk. When performed correctly on suitable tree species, pollarding provides benefits such as size control, safety, and interesting forms. However, it is a drastic technique that is not right for every landscape.

The striking before and after images show just how radically pollarding alters tree shape and form. While this is desirable in some urban and controlled environments, it appears quite unnatural in more open settings.

If you are considering pollarding landscape trees, weigh the pros and cons carefully. Look at alternatives like judicious branch removal. And consider whether more moderate crown reduction could achieve your goals without such an extreme makeover. An experienced arborist can help you determine if pollarding is the right choice for your specific situation.

pollard tree before and after

Much of the older tree stock that was planted will have been chosen for the ability to tolerate pollution rather than for its decorative attributes. An example is Platanus x hispanica – the London plane. These large and often over-mature specimens often cause problems with reducing visibility, blocking drains and gutters, lifting paving, restricting light into neighbouring houses and dropping large branches. One way of managing this is to pollard them and it’s better than the alternative which is to remove them.

pollard tree before and after

Pollarding is a term given to the process in which the main branch systems of trees are pruned heavily to short stubs. This promotes vigorous young re-growth from the stumpy branches and is often used in urban areas to reduce the crown size of old street trees. Modern street trees are selected for their size and habit and varieties are chosen that do not grow too large, obscure vision for motorists or pedestrians and do not drop excessive leaf litter. A century ago when many trees were planted in cities the choice of species was limited.

pollard tree before and after

How To Pollard A Tree with Nick Dunn – Frank P Matthews

FAQ

What are the disadvantages of pollarding?

Disadvantages of pollarding include the potential for stress, increased vulnerability to disease and decay, and potential decline if not done correctly.

Is pollarding a tree good?

Pollarding helps to maintain a manageable tree size, reduces shade, and prevents branches from interfering with utility lines and streetlights. Additionally, regular pollarding improves the overall health of the tree by stimulating new growth and reducing the risk of disease through careful pruning techniques.

Can you Pollard an older tree?

Pollarded trees are a common sight in cities and particularly in many European countries. The practice of pollarding should be done as a form of training from when the tree is young and should not be used as a means of reducing growth on an older tree. Pollarding is similar to coppicing.

Which trees get pollarded?

Examples of trees that do well as pollards include broadleaves such as beeches (Fagus), oaks (Quercus), maples (Acer), black locust or false acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia), hornbeams (Carpinus), lindens and limes (Tilia), planes (Platanus), horse chestnuts (Aesculus), mulberries (Morus), Eastern redbud (Cercis …

How often should you pollard a tree?

Once you start pollarding a tree, you must keep it up. Pollard every two years if you are pollarding to reduce the size of the tree or in order to maintain a landscaping design. Possible broadleaf trees suitable for pollarding include trees with vigorous regrowth like

Why is the dormant season the best time to pollard?

The timing of pollarding is essential, as it can significantly affect the tree’s growth and overall health. Generally, the best time to pollard a tree is during the dormant season, typically in late winter or early spring. This timing ensures that the tree will be able to produce new growth quickly once the growing season begins.

Do pollard trees grow back after cutting?

The tree does grow back after the initial cutting, but once a tree has been pollarded once, this process needs regularly repeating, and maintained. This results in an expanded (or swollen) top of the the tree trunk, with multiple new shoots growing from it. Here’s a before and after, of winter pollarding carried out by Longacre. Why Pollard Trees?

How long should a tree grow before pollarding?

Allow the tree to grow for 2 – 5 years before pollarding. Develop a final aesthetic look for the tree. Know what you want before you get there. Choose the first heading cut carefully. There is so much more work if you need to reposition the branching later.

What time of year is pollard tree pruning best done?

Undertake pollard tree pruning while the tree is dormant, during the winter or early spring, January through March in most places. While the tree looks like a barren stick right after pollard tree trimming, the crown soon grows in. Always choose young trees for pollarding, since they regrow faster and better than older trees.

Do pollard trees need to be pollarded?

The thinner crown allows for air circulation, and keeps the trees at a comfortable size. Many species of trees can be pollarded, to rejuvenate the tree and prolong their life. Broadleaves trees such as beeches, oaks, maples and planes, all benefit from winter pollarding. When is the best time to Pollard Trees? Winter. That’s the simple answer.

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