These general tips for rose pruning will help you improve the health and lifespan of any rose.
The following tips are for all roses. However, there is more detailed pruning advice available for specific types;
Hey there fellow rose lovers! Today, I’m gonna share everything you need to know about those crazy-long shoots popping up on your rose bushes. As a passionate gardener who’s dealt with these surprise growth spurts countless times, I’ll help you figure out whether these shoots are friends or foes for your precious roses.
What’s Up With Those Super-Tall Shoots?
You know that moment when you walk into your garden and suddenly notice these massive stems shooting up from your normally well-behaved rose bush? Yeah, we’ve all been there! These tall shoots generally come in two types:
- Water Shoots (also called basal shoots)
- Suckers
Both look pretty similar at first glance but trust me knowing the difference is super important for your rose’s health!
Water Shoots: The Good Guys
Water shoots are actually your rose bush’s way of saying “I’m thriving!” Here’s what you need to know about these beneficial growths
Characteristics of Water Shoots:
- Grow from the bud union (that knobby part where the rose is grafted)
- Match the main plant’s foliage and flowers
- Often thicker than regular canes
- Usually appear in spring or autumn
- Form new main stems for your rose bush
Why Water Shoots Pop Up:
- Natural growth cycle
- Response to good growing conditions
- Plant regeneration
- Seasonal changes
- Sometimes triggered by heavy pruning
Suckers: The Troublemakers
Now these guys are the ones you gotta watch out for! Suckers are like the unwanted cousin who shows up at your family reunion – they look similar but definitely don’t belong!
How to Identify Suckers:
- Emerge from below the graft union
- Often start underground
- Usually have different foliage
- May produce different flowers
- Can grow super aggressively
The Big Difference: Location, Location, Location!
Here’s my super simple trick for telling them apart:
| Feature | Water Shoots | Suckers ||--------------|----------------------------|----------------------------|| Origin | At/above graft union | Below graft union || Growth | Controlled | Aggressive || Purpose | Strengthens plant | Steals nutrients || Action | Usually keep | Always remove |What Should You Do With These Shoots?
For Water Shoots:
- Let them grow if your rose needs rejuvenation
- Stake them if they’re getting too tall
- Trim them to match plant height if desired
- Monitor their growth during the season
For Suckers:
- Remove them ASAP!
- Dig down to find the origin point
- Pull or cut them off as close to the root as possible
- Keep checking for new growth
Pro Tips from My Garden to Yours
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Don’t Trust the Leaflet Count: Y’know that old saying about counting leaflets? (7 for water shoots, 5 for suckers) – it’s not always reliable! I’ve seen plenty of exceptions.
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Check the Growth Pattern: Water shoots tend to grow more uniformly, while suckers often have a wild, unruly appearance.
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When in Doubt, Document: Take photos of suspicious growth and track changes. This has saved my roses more than once!
Common Questions I Get About Long Shoots
“Help! My Rose is Growing Super Tall Shoots in Autumn!”
Don’t panic! This is actually pretty normal. Autumn growth spurts happen, especially with water shoots. Just keep an eye on them and provide support if needed.
“Should I Cut Off All Tall Growth?”
Nope! If they’re water shoots, they’re helping your rose bush develop new, strong canes. Only remove them if they’re definitely suckers or if the water shoots are causing structural issues.
“My Rose Keeps Producing Long Shoots – What’s Wrong?”
Could be a few things:
- Not enough sunlight (plant searching for light)
- Over-fertilization
- Recent heavy pruning
- Natural growth cycle
Warning Signs to Watch For
Sometimes those long shoots are trying to tell you something:
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Excessive Water Shoots Could Mean:
- Too much nitrogen
- Insufficient sunlight
- Stress response
- Recovery from damage
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Frequent Suckers Might Indicate:
- Damage to the graft union
- Stress on the rootstock
- Poor planting depth
- Soil disturbance
Final Thoughts and Tips
Looking after roses isn’t always a bed of roses (sorry, couldn’t resist!), but understanding these growth patterns makes it way easier. Here’s what I want you to remember:
- Not all long shoots are bad
- Check the origin point before taking action
- Document unusual growth
- When in doubt, ask for help!
If you’re ever unsure about whether you’re dealing with a water shoot or sucker, snap a pic and send it to your local rose society or garden center. Trust me, we rose enthusiasts love helping each other out!
Remember: A healthy rose bush will naturally produce water shoots as part of its growth cycle. It’s only when you spot those sneaky suckers that you need to take immediate action.
Happy gardening, and may all your shoots be the good kind!
P.S. – If you’ve got any cool stories about dealing with crazy rose growth, drop them in the comments below. I’d love to hear your experiences!
How to prune roses: general tips
When tackling roses bear the following in mind;
- Cuts should be no more than 5mm (¼ in) above a bud and should slope downwards away from it, so that water does not collect on the bud. This applies to all cuts, whether removing dead wood, deadheading or annual pruning
- Cut to an outward-facing bud to encourage an open-centred shape. With roses of spreading habit, prune some stems to inward-facing buds to encourage more upright growth
- Cut to the appropriate height, if a dormant bud is not visible
- Cuts must be clean, so keep your secateurs sharp. For larger stems, use loppers or a pruning saw
- Prune dieback to healthy white pith
- Cut out dead and diseased stems and spindly and crossing stems
- Aim for well-spaced stems that allow free air flow
- On established roses, cut out poorly flowering old wood and saw away old stubs that have failed to produce new shoots
- With the exception of climbing roses and shrub roses, prune all newly planted roses hard to encourage vigorous shoots
- Trace suckers back to the roots from which they grow and pull them away
These tips should be read in conjunction with the appropriate rose pruning profile.
When to prune roses
Late winter (February or March) is often a good time for pruning roses but see the individual rose profiles above for more specific timing.