If you’ve fed your Venus flytrap a tasty meal, only to have the trap turn black and die over the following days, don’t panic!
Traps can turn black for many different reasons, and most are not fatal to the plant. I’ve listed 5 of the most common causes below.
Don’t feed your plant bits of sausage, chocolate, or anything else it wouldn’t catch in the wild. This is a guaranteed way to cause the trap to rot. Snip off the dead leaf, and start feeding your plant properly!
If you’re feeding your plant bugs, don’t give it anything larger than about 1/3 the size of the trap. If the insect is too big, or if a stray leg or antennae is left poking out, it’s likely the trap will be unable to fully seal, which will again cause the leaf to die. Simply snip it out and wait for new growth to replace the old trap.
Hey there, fellow plant parents! If you’re like me, watching your Venus flytrap’s traps turn black can be a bit nerve-wracking I’ve been growing these fascinating carnivorous plants for years, and today I’m gonna share everything you need to know about dealing with those dead traps
Quick Answer: Yes, you should cut off dead Venus flytrap traps once they’ve turned completely black. It’s not just about looks – it’s actually super important for your plant’s health!
Why You Should Remove Those Dead Traps
Let me break down exactly why trimming dead traps is so important
- Prevents nasty bacteria and fungus from growing (nobody wants that!)
- Lets more sunlight reach the new baby traps
- Makes your plant look way better (bye-bye, ugly black bits!)
- Helps your plant focus its energy on making new traps
- Gives new growth more space to emerge
When’s the Right Time to Trim?
Here’s the deal – timing is everything! You’ll know it’s time to trim when
- The trap has turned completely black or brown
- It feels dry and crunchy (like autumn leaves)
- The trap’s all shriveled up
- It doesn’t snap shut anymore when touched
- The trap’s basically falling off on its own
Pro tip: Don’t jump the gun! If there’s still any green on that trap, leave it alone. Those partially green traps are still helping your plant make food through photosynthesis.
How to Trim Like a Pro
Listen up, cause this is important! Here’s my step-by-step guide:
- Clean your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol
- Put on some gloves (those traps can still snap!)
- Find where the dead trap connects to the main stem
- Make one clean cut about 1-2mm above the base
- Double-check you didn’t nick any healthy parts
- Throw the dead bits in the trash or compost
Common Mistakes to Avoid
We all make mistakes, but here’s what you really don’t wanna do:
- Don’t yank off traps with your fingers
- Never cut traps that still have green parts
- Don’t forget to clean your cutting tools
- Avoid cutting into the healthy stem
- Don’t trim too many traps at once
Bonus Tips for Happy Flytraps
Here’s some extra wisdom I’ve picked up along the way:
- Water your plant 1-2 days before trimming
- Trim in the morning on sunny days
- Space out your pruning sessions (every 2-4 weeks is good)
- Keep an eye out for new growth after trimming
- During dormancy, it’s okay to have some dead traps
Fun Fact: Turn Those Trimmings into Baby Plants!
Did you know you can actually use some of those cuttings to make new plants? Here’s how:
- Pick a dead trap with a healthy stem piece
- Cut it with about 2-3 inches of stem
- Pop it in some sphagnum moss
- Keep it warm and moist
- Wait for new shoots (it takes a few weeks)
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Sometimes things don’t go as planned. Here’s what might go wrong and how to fix it:
- Traps staying green after dying: Give more sunlight
- Accidentally cut live stem: Let it heal before more trimming
- Weird regrowth: Check light and humidity levels
- Slow new growth: Maybe time for light fertilizing
- Oozing stems: You cut too low – give it time to recover
Final Thoughts
Remember, caring for Venus flytraps isn’t rocket science, but it does need some attention to detail. Trimming dead traps is just one part of keeping these awesome plants healthy and happy.
I’ve found that regular maintenance makes a huge difference in how well these plants grow. Just keep an eye on those traps, and when they turn black, don’t be afraid to give them a little haircut!
Keep it simple, be patient, and your Venus flytrap will reward you with lots of healthy new growth and plenty of bug-catching action!
Would you like me to explain anything in more detail? I’m always happy to help fellow Venus flytrap enthusiasts! ✂️
Stress from poor growing conditions
If your growing conditions aren’t ideal, your plant’s traps may turn black every time they’re fed, or even if they haven’t been fed at all. Traps turning yellow before turning black – especially ones which haven’t been fed – is a common symptom of poor growing conditions.
Notice how my plant pictured below is growing very happily despite not a single trap having yet caught a fly!
Venus flytraps dont need to catch loads of flies to keep growing healthily!
You should focus on providing a good growing environment – suitable sun, water, and soil – before worrying about food.
- Are you giving your plants suitable water? Tap water and bottled water often contain high levels of dissolved minerals which can burn your plant’s roots. Rainwater and distilled water are best.
- Is your plant getting enough light? Venus flytraps like full sun; growing them in a gloomy position will cause traps to turn black more frequently.
- Are you using appropriate soil? Like most carnivorous plants, Venus flytraps need a nutrient-poor soil. Normal potting compost or anything with fertilizer will hurt your plant! Use peat moss mixed with lime-free horticultural sand and/or perlite. UK readers can buy ready-made carnivorous plant compost from Hampshire Carnivorous Plants. In the US, California Carnivores offers an excellent ready-made soil mix. Alternatively, you can buy this carnivorous plant compost on Amazon worldwide.
You can read my complete Venus flytrap growing guide here, or grab a copy of Peter D’Amato’s carnivorous plant “bible”, The Savage Garden.
Like many other temperate plants, Venus flytraps require a cold winter dormancy in order to survive long-term. As the daylight hours shorten and temperatures drop, it’s normal for some traps to go black and die as your plant enters its winter resting phase. In the northern hemisphere, this period typically lasts between November and February.
Venus flytraps entering winter dormancy – their rest period!
If your flytrap’s leaves have started to die in late Autumn (and if you’ve taken care of all their other growing requirements!), it’s likely that your plant is simply starting its dormancy. This is completely normal, and you can safely trim off any dead leaves and slightly reduce watering until Spring. Your plant will then begin producing new traps when the days get longer and temperatures rise. You can read more about Venus flytrap dormancy here.
Closing a trap and digesting an insect requires energy. If you feed every single trap on your plant – or worse, trigger the traps for fun without giving them a meal – it’s likely that some of the leaves will turn black and die.
This probably isn’t fatal, so don’t panic. Your plant is simply focusing its energy on producing new leaves. Hold off from feeding for a month or two, and in future, try to avoid feeding more than 1 trap per week (especially on small plants). You might also try putting your plant outside on a sunny day to let it try catching some food naturally.
Some cultivation advice I always give to new growers: feeding your plants should be the very last thing on your list! There are more important things which you should tackle first if you wish to grow carnivorous plants successfully.
If it’s the oldest traps in the rosette which are turning black, or if the blackening trap has already caught and digested several insects, then this is likely a normal part of the trap’s lifecycle. If your plant is continuing to put out new growth to replace the old traps, then you have nothing to worry about.
My healthy Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) produces traps which turn nice and red in the sun!
Venus Fly Trap Turning Black Fast – Crown Rot – Diagnose & Care Tips To Save Your Carnivorous Plant
FAQ
Should I cut off dead Venus flytrap leaves?
Yes, it is recommended to prune off dead Venus flytrap leaves. Here are the key reasons: Removes decaying plant matter that can breed bacteria, fungus, and pests if left attached. Cutting off dead traps prevents disease. Allows more sunlight to reach emerging leaves. Dead black traps block light from young growth.
How do you know if a Venus flytrap is dead?
It’s best to remove dead Venus flytraps traps as soon as they turn completely black and crispy. Don’t wait until multiple traps have died or disease can take hold. Here are signs a trap is dead and ready for pruning: Trap is entirely black or brown in color, no other colors visible. Trap feels dry and crunchy to the touch, not moist and pliable.
How long does a Venus flytrap take to decompose?
In your home or a small plant pot, the dead foliage will take months or up to a year to decompose. Trim your Venus flytrap to give the traps more space to extend over and grow. Venus flytraps undergo a dormancy period every year during late fall or winter. This process is entirely normal, and it is analogous to animal hibernation.
What happens if you pollinate a Venus flytrap plant?
Attempt to pollinate every flower in your plant to increase your chances. Once fertilized, your flowers will change dramatically in a couple of days. Their color will change; they will dry up and die. If you successfully pollinated the flower, it will leave Venus flytrap seeds behind.
Do I need to trim or remove traps when they die?
It isn’t necessary to trim or remove the black pieces that are left when traps die (a natural process, traps die off after eating a certain number of times, usually 4-5, and after time, and always new growth should also be coming in, even during dormancy).