What Do Hollyhock Leaves Look Like? Identifying Features of This Classic Flower
Hollyhocks are classic cottage garden flowers that have been grown for centuries. With their tall flowering spikes and vibrant blooms, they add drama and height to the landscape. But to properly identify hollyhocks, you need to pay attention to the leaves as well as the flowers. Here’s an in-depth look at what hollyhock leaves look like and their key identifying traits.
Leaf Shape
The leaves of hollyhocks have a distinct rounded, heart-shaped form. They are palmately lobed with 5-7 lobes radiating out like fingers from the leaf base. The leaf edges are lightly ruffled or wavy.
Hollyhock leaves grow alternately up the main flowering stem on long leaf stalks called petioles. The leaf shape is unique compared to other common garden plants.
Leaf Size
Mature hollyhock leaves grow quite large, reaching 4-12 inches across depending on the variety. However, when plants first emerge in spring, the leaves start out much smaller.
The lower leaves on the plant tend to be the biggest. Leaves become progressively smaller as they go up the flower spike. The large size and rounded, open shape give hollyhock leaves a full, broad look.
Leaf Texture
Hollyhock leaves have a slightly rough, sandpapery texture. The upper surface is dull green while the undersides are a paler green color. Both leaf surfaces are dotted with tiny hairs that give them the rough feel.
As the leaves mature, especially lower leaves, they take on a leathery, wrinkled appearance. The texture helps distinguish them from similar mallow family plants.
Leaf Venation
The venation pattern on hollyhock leaves is palmate like the overall shape. This means several main veins radiate out from a central point. There are typically 5-7 primary veins branching from the leaf base.
The veins stand out clearly on the underside of the leaves. Smaller secondary veins connect between the main veins, forming a web-like network.
Leaf Color
Young hollyhock leaves emerge with a light green color in spring. As they mature, the leaves darken to a medium or deep green on top with a paler underside.
Lower leaves often take on a yellowish cast later in summer. And by fall, the lowest leaves frequently turn yellow or brown before dropping off the plant.
Signs of Damage
Hollyhock leaves are prone to insect feeding damage. Watch for chewed holes, skeletonization of tissue between veins, spots, and distortions in shape. Fungal diseases like rust and powdery mildew also affect the leaves.
Rust causes small yellow, orange or brown bumps on leaf undersides. Powdery mildew leads to white powdery spots on upper leaf surfaces. Careful inspection can help identify issues.
Where to Find Hollyhocks
Look for hollyhocks in informal cottage gardens, perennial beds, and along fences or walls. Their large lobed leaves on tall stems create a distinctive presence. Leaves lower on the plant tend to be the biggest.
Hollyhocks self-seed easily and sometimes escape from gardens. So you may also spot them growing in rural areas, roadsides, and untended fields.
With their signature leaf shape, texture, venation and large size, hollyhock leaves are quite unique. Paying attention to the key identifying features makes it easy to recognize this classic cottage garden flower. The bold lobed foliage combined with the tall spikes of colorful blooms make hollyhocks a must-have plant for many gardens.
What is hollyhock rust?
Hollyhock rust is the most common fungal leaf disease of hollyhocks (Alcea rosea). Many other ornamentals (e.g., flowering maple, rose mallow) and weeds (e.g., common mallow) in the mallow family are also susceptible. Hollyhock rust can quickly spread, causing stunting of plants and premature leaf drop. In rare instances, hollyhock rust can result in plant death.
How do I save a plant with hollyhock rust?
Once symptoms of hollyhock rust appear, control can be difficult. If you observe the disease very early in its development, remove symptomatic leaves and dispose of them in your municipal garbage (where allowed) or by deep burying them. Consider follow-up fungicide treatments, although such treatments will be most effective when applied before any symptoms appear. If you decide to use fungicides for control, select products that are labeled for use on hollyhocks (or more generally on ornamental flowering plants) and contain the active ingredients chlorothalonil, mancozeb, myclobutanil, tebuconazole, or triticonazole. When making more than one application, DO NOT use the same active ingredient for all treatments. Instead, alternate the use of at least two active ingredients with different modes of action to help minimize problems with fungicide-resistant variants of the hollyhock rust fungus. Myclobutanil, tebuconazole and triticonazole have similar modes of action and should NOT be alternated with one another. Be sure to read and follow all label instructions of the fungicides that you select to ensure that you use products in the safest and most effective manner possible.
HOW to PLANT and GROW HOLLYHOCKS plus TIPS for growing hollyhocks in HOT CLIMATES
FAQ
How do you identify hollyhock leaves?
Leaf Features
Each leaf blade is orbicular or oval, indented at the base, and has crenate margins. The upper surface is slightly pubescent to hairless, wrinkled with fine veins, and the lower surface is light green and pubescent.
Do hollyhocks come back every year?
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Biennial Nature:Hollyhocks are naturally biennials, meaning they complete their life cycle in two years.
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Self-Seeding:They produce many seeds, which can easily spread and germinate in new locations.
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Appearance of Perennials:Because of this prolific self-seeding, hollyhocks often appear to be perennials, as they seem to come back year after year.
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New Growth:New hollyhocks that emerge from seeds may not be in the same location as the original plant, and their characteristics (like flower color) might differ due to cross-pollination.
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Short-lived Perennials:Some hollyhocks may behave as short-lived perennials, meaning they can persist for more than two years, especially if they are well-cared for and the conditions are favorable, according to Illinois Extension.
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First Year Growth:In the first year, hollyhocks focus on establishing a strong root system and foliage.
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Second Year Blooming:The second year, they produce tall flower stalks and bloom, according to Better Homes & Gardens.
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Deadheading and Seed Production:After the flowers fade, it’s recommended to deadhead (remove spent flowers) to encourage more blooms and to allow seed pods to develop.
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Seed Spreading:The seed pods will eventually open and release seeds, which can then germinate and establish new hollyhocks.
Does hollyhocks spread?
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Self-seeding:Hollyhocks produce numerous seeds, which, if left undisturbed, can fall to the ground and germinate, leading to new plants in close proximity.
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While less common, some hollyhock varieties can also spread through rhizomes, which are underground stems that can sprout new plants.
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Not aggressive:While hollyhocks can spread, they are generally not considered invasive, and their growth is limited by factors like soil conditions and sunlight.
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Thinning:When self-seeded seedlings emerge, it’s common to thin them out to manage space and plant density.
How do you keep hollyhocks blooming all summer?
Pinch off spent blooms and dead leaves regularly to promote more growth and flowers. Toward the end of the growing season, when most of the blooms are finished, you can cut down the main stems of your hollyhocks. If you want the plant to continue coming back year after year, you can leave some seed pods on the stalk.