[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Onion sets (small transplants) are one of the first things you can plant in January as soon as the soil is dry enough not to stick to your garden tools. I remember as a child “helping” my Dad plant onions in the garden—even the smallest hands can assist with this garden task.
Onions come in short-day, long-day, and intermediate day. Dallas County is considered a short-day county. You can plant red/purple onions, yellow onions, and white onions. Each tastes a little different. All of them are high in vitamins A and C.
It is important to pick the best cultivars of onions for your area. The recommended onions for North Central Texas are:
Onions are a versatile and delicious vegetable that can be successfully grown across the diverse climates of Texas Knowing the optimal time to harvest your onions is key to getting the largest, healthiest bulbs from your crop In this comprehensive guide, we’ll cover everything Texas gardeners need to know about identifying maturity, recommended harvesting times for different regions, techniques for harvesting, and how to cure and store your onion harvest.
Onion Growth Stages in Texas
Onions go through distinct growth phases during their development from seed to mature bulb, Becoming familiar with these stages will help you identify when your onions are getting close to prime harvesting time
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Seedling stage – Onions start as tiny seedlings after germination The grass-like leaves will be slender and thin
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Vegetative growth – The onion plant focuses energy on leaf growth and root establishment. You’ll notice the leaves getting taller and wider.
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Bulbing – When the day length triggers bulbing, the onion plant shifts resources into developing the underground bulb. The foliage starts to fall over as the bulb swells.
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Maturity – The onion bulb reaches maximum size and the leaves turn yellow and dry out. This signals the onion is mature and ready for harvest.
Recommended Harvest Times Based on Texas Growing Zones
Texas has a wide variety of climates, so the ideal harvest timing can vary across different regions of the state. Here are some general guidelines for when to harvest onions based on Texas growing zones:
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North Texas (zones 7b-8a) – Harvest short-day and intermediate-day onions from late May through mid-June when about 1/3 of the tops have fallen over.
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Central Texas (zone 8b) – Harvest short-day varieties from late April through May when the tops start collapsing. Intermediate-day types can be harvested starting in early May.
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South Texas (zones 9a-9b) – Short-day onions are ready for harvest from mid-March through April. Begin harvesting intermediate-day varieties in late April.
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Far West Texas (zones 7a-8a) – Plan to harvest short-day and intermediate-day onions from early May through mid-June.
How to Tell When Onions Are Ready for Picking
Keep a close eye on your crop as the onions progress through their growth stages. Here are the key signs that your onions are mature and ready for harvesting:
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Falling foliage – The green leafy tops will start to fall over and go soft, with the neck of the plant becoming weak. About 1/3 or more of the tops should be flopped over at harvest time.
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Thinning foliage – As the bulb matures, the above-ground foliage will turn yellowish and start to thin out.
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Bulb size – Gently dig around the base of a plant and pull up an onion to check the bulb size. It should be fully formed and thick.
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Dry skins – A mature onion ready for harvest will have dry, papery outer skins. Immature bulbs will have shiny skins.
Onion Harvesting Techniques
Use care when harvesting onions to avoid damaging the ripe bulbs:
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Pick in the early morning after the dew has dried but before the midday heat sets in. Avoid harvesting in wet, rainy conditions.
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Gently pull or dig up mature plants by grasping the tops and shaking off loose soil. Be careful not to bruise the bulbs.
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Allow harvested onions to cure in the garden for 1-2 days before further processing. Lay pulled onions on their tops to protect bulbs while the necks finish drying.
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After curing, use scissors or pruners to trim the roots and tops, leaving about 1″ of stem.
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Move cured onions out of direct sun to avoid sunscald during curing. Lightly covering with foliage works well.
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Brush off any remaining dirt but don’t wash until ready to use.
Onion Curing & Storage
After harvesting and curing, proper storage conditions are crucial for enjoying your onion harvest over the long-term:
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Choose a dry, well-ventilated location like a shed, garage, or basement. Avoid excess moisture and humidity.
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Place cured onions in mesh bags or bushel baskets with plenty of air circulation.
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Keep stored onions in a dark place. Light can cause sprouting. Cover with towels if needed.
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Ideal storage temperature is 32°F to 40°F. The refrigerator crisper works great for short-term storage.
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Inspect stored onions regularly and remove any that are spoiled. Most varieties keep 2-3 months under optimal conditions.
Common Onion Growing Problems in Texas
Watch for these potential issues while onions are growing and maturing:
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Flowering or bolting – Some onions prematurely send up a tall flower stalk. Pinch off any flower stalks to encourage bulb growth.
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Thin, weak necks – This can cause foliage to fall over too early before the bulb matures. Maintain consistent soil moisture.
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Splitting bulbs – Overwatering later in growth may cause onions to crack or split open. Avoid excessive irrigation near harvest time.
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Sunscald – Intense sunlight can burn exposed bulbs during curing. Lightly cover bulbs to protect them.
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Pink root – A fungal disease that stunts plants. Rotate crop location to prevent buildup in soil.
With the right timing for your region, attention to onion maturity signs, and gentle harvesting techniques, you can enjoy an abundant onion harvest from your Texas garden. Following proper curing and storage methods will help your harvest last for months to come.
Preparing the Garden Site
Onions grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. To prepare your garden for the onions, work the soil loose, about 8-10 inches deep. Put three inches of compost over the soil, then work the compost in the soil so that it is evenly distributed throughout the disturbed dirt. Make a hill 2-3 inches high, then rake the top of the hill flat. Break up large clods of dirt so the soil is fine across the hill.
Planting the sets is not difficult. Make a furrow that is ¾ inches deep in the hill you have prepared. Take each set and put it in the furrow. Space the plants three inches apart so they have room to grow. Gently fill in enough soil to keep the onion plant vertical.
You can grow onions from seed as well as sets. Onion seeds are best planted ¼ inch deep in October. Place the seeds one inch apart. When the onion plants are about six inches high, thin to 2-3 inches between the onion plants. Don’t crowd the plants or they will not grow as big. You can eat the thinned onions as green onions. You can plant seeds in January, but your onions will not get as big as fall planted seeds before they have flowers (bolt). The onions are not good to eat after they bolt.
Onion sets, transplants, and seeds need fertilizer to grow well. Spread 2-3 pounds of a fertilizer such as 10-10-10 over 100 feet, then mix the fertilizer in the first 2-3 inches of soil. Water the onions after you have planted them and spread the fertilizer. When the onion plants have 5-6 leaves, spread ½ cup of fertilizer for each 10 feet of row. Water the fertilizer in.
Onions need one inch of water a week when it is cool, but may need more in dry, hot, and windy conditions. It is best to water slowly and deeply to encourage deep roots that are sturdy and plump.
Onions need to be kept weeded. The weeds compete with the onions for nutrients and water. Pulling weeds by hand is the best way to get rid of them. Do not hoe the onion roots when weeding. You should weed before the weed plants are 3-4 inches tall for easiest removal. Weeds can outcompete your onions so make sure you keep the weeds under control.
Few pests bother onions. The major one you will find will be onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). These tiny insects are usually found between the center leaves. They leave behind slivery patches that may look like trails through the leaves. A severe infestation of onion thrips may cause leaves to become dry and yellow or die. Thrips carry several types of viruses that are incurable and will kill your onions.
Onions can become spotted or have brown tips from fungal diseases. Several different fungal diseases can infect your onions, so take a picture of the infected onion plant and send it to our help desk for a diagnosis ([email protected]).
Sulphur will kill both the thrips and most fungal diseases. Make sure that anything you put on your onions expressly mentions being allowed on onions and follow label directions for use. Some things will not only get rid of the pests and diseases, but will make you sick, too.
Harvest green onions any time after the plant is at least as big as a pencil in diameter. You will know it is time to harvest mature onions when the stalks weaken and start to fall over. This should happen in late May to early June. Pull the onions, brush the dirt off of them, and let them dry in the garden a day or two before bringing them in. Trim off the stalks and roots and let the onions continue to dry in areas with good air circulation. A wire basket in a cool, dry, dark place is a good place to store the onions. They can also be stored in the crisper of your refrigerator but will not last as long. Do not store them in a hot garage or they will spoil rapidly.
The Harvest Of My Texas Legends Onions
FAQ
How do I tell when onions are ready to harvest?
Onions are ready to harvest when their tops fall over and begin to turn yellow or brown, indicating they are no longer actively growing.
When to pull onions in Texas?
The onions are ready when the main stem begins to get weak and fall (Fig. 3). Pull the plants out of the soil. Leave them lying in the garden for 1 to 2 days to dry.
Can you wait too long to harvest onions?
You can harvest and use them at any time but for best long term storage it is best to wait for the neck to soften and fall over. Leaving them in the ground for an extra week or 2 normally isn’t a problem unless it is going to be very wet which can cause some rotting.
Can onions stay in the ground too long?
Once they fall, you can leave them in the ground for a week to ten days. This starts the natural curing process. However, do not leave them in the ground much more than ten days as that makes them susceptible to soil borne pathogens that can cause mold and rot in storage.