We’ve reached mid-May, the time of year to transplant our okra. Okra is a tropical annual in the mallow family, and is widely adapted where the frost-free season is long enough. Okra is heat- and drought-tolerant and has few serious pests or diseases. Those in hot climates will need to deal with its exuberant growth in mid-summer. Those in cold climates should choose fast-maturing varieties and transplant into black plastic. In areas with cold nights, okra can only be grown in a hoophouse.
We like Cow Horn okra from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, which gives good yields and sturdy plants in our zone 7a climate. It is one of a few varieties that can grow relatively large pods without their becoming tough. We are sometimes not good at finding all the pods when harvesting, so it is an advantage to us if they are still good to eat when bigger than normal. SESE has an Okra Growing Guide.
Spineless (easy to harvest) varieties include Clemson Spineless (56 days), and Evertender (50 days). Red-podded varieties include Burmese (58 days), a high-yielding dwarf heirloom, and Red Burgundy (49 days), reported to do well in “cooler” areas, although it will not do much until day time temperatures reach 80°F (27°C).
Deciding when to transplant okra seedlings from indoors to the garden is an important consideration for getting a bountiful okra harvest. While okra can be directly sown in the garden once soil temperatures warm up, many gardeners prefer starting seeds indoors and transplanting seedlings. This gives the okra a head start on the growing season for earlier maturity and harvest. Properly timing okra seedling transplants helps avoid stunting plants while ensuring they are mature enough to thrive after being moved outdoors.
Why Transplant Okra
There are several advantages to transplanting okra seedlings compared to direct sowing seeds
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Gets a head start on the growing season for earlier harvests. Transplants mature sooner than direct sown plants.
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Avoids exposure to diseases, pests, and weather fluctuations when started indoors
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Provides more control over spacing and arrangement in the garden bed
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Reduces risk of seeds being dug up by birds or damaged by heavy rains when sown directly.
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When properly hardened off, transplants experience less shock when moved outdoors. This results in faster establishment and growth.
When to Start Seeds Indoors
Okra seeds can be started indoors 4-6 weeks before the anticipated last spring frost. This gives seedlings time to develop 2-4 true leaves and a decent root system prior to being placed in the garden.
Those in warmer climates can push this timeline up by 1-2 weeks. Just be sure to properly harden off plants before transitioning them to outdoor conditions.
Okra requires warm soil and air temperatures to thrive. Transplanting too early while nights are still cool will stunt growth.
Optimal Time to Transplant Okra Outdoors
The ideal window for transplanting okra seedlings outdoors is when daytime high temperatures reach at least 70°F and nighttime lows stay above 50°F. This usually occurs 4-6 weeks after the last frost date for the area.
Some gardeners transplant okra 2 weeks before the anticipated last frost with protection such as row covers. However, it’s generally best to wait until minimum soil temperature reaches 60°F for transplanting.
Pay close attention to long range weather forecasts when scheduling transplants. Okra growth will be inhibited if colder temperatures return or a cold snap occurs shortly after being moved into the garden bed.
6 Signs Okra Seedlings Are Ready for Transplanting
Check for these signs to know when okra seedlings are mature enough for transplanting:
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Roots are filling containers – Seedlings with roots circling the pot or densely packed are getting root bound and need more space.
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Multiple sets of true leaves – Okra with several true leaves present indicates good maturity to handle being transplanted.
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Steady growth – Seedlings growing vigorously show readiness for the transition to the garden.
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Overcrowding – Stunted growth or yellowing leaves can indicate it’s time to transplant.
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Slowed growth – Mature seedlings that slow down in growth may need more space and nutrients.
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Poor drainage – Seedlings struggling in wet soil likely need transplanting to better drainage.
Transplanting Tips for Okra Success
Follow these tips for successfully transplanting okra into the garden:
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Harden off plants 7-10 days before transplanting.
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Transplant on a mild, cloudy day, in late afternoon or evening.
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Water seedlings 1-2 hours before transplanting.
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Prepare soil with compost and dig holes for plants.
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Carefully remove from pots without disturbing roots.
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Plant at same depth as in containers.
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Space plants 12-18 inches apart in rows 2-3 feet apart.
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Water transplants thoroughly after planting and daily the first week.
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Use row cover if cold nights are expected.
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Fertilize with compost or organic nutrients once established.
Direct Sowing Okra
While transplanting has advantages, okra can also be directly sown 1/2 to 1 inch deep in the garden once soil reaches 65°F. Thin seedlings to 12-18 inches apart. Direct sown plants may mature 1-2 weeks behind transplants.
Properly timing okra seedling transplantation for your climate is key to getting a prolific harvest. Aim to transplant after hardening off once daytime highs reach 70°F and nighttime lows stay above 50°F, usually 4-6 weeks after the last spring frost. Monitor weather forecasts closely and care for transplants properly to prevent shock. With the right conditions and practices, transplanted okra will flourish.
Crop Requirements and Yield
Okra does best in well-drained, fertile, loamy soils with high organic matter. Wet clay soils can drown the plants. It grows best with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0, although as high as 7.6 is still OK.
5 gm sows 50’ (15 m) at 6” (15 cm) spacing. Average yields are about 50-100 lb/100’ (7.6-15 kg/10 m). We grow 90’ (27 m) for 100 people, which provides enough for some pickling too.
According to Rodale’s 600 Answers, germination speed can be improved by freezing the seed overnight, then soaking in hot water for ½-1 hour before sowing. It needs to be warm enough to get your seed germinated: you can soak the seed for 8 hours in water at 88°F (31°C).
When we direct sow, we “station-sow” – we put three seeds ½-1” (1-2.5 cm) deep at each spot where we want a plant to grow. We do this on May 1, with rowcover, as this is around our last frost date, and we want to avoid disasters! Direct sow once the soil temperature averages 65°F (20°C), 3-4 weeks after last frost.
When seedlings have 3-4 leaves, we thin to the strongest seedling. Okra is sturdier if direct sown, rather than transplanted, but you work with the climate you’ve got!
Usually we transplant, especially if we are intercropping. For transplants we sow April 15, using soil blocks or Winstrip 50-cell flats. I was amazed to learn that at 6″ (15 cm) tall, plants could have taproots three times as long! At full maturity, the tap root could be 4½ ft (1.4 m). To avoid stunting the taproot, get the small plants in the ground as soon as you can, carefully.
We transplant 3-4 week old starts – a plant with 3 or 4 leaves is ideal – at 18” (45 cm) spacing in a single row down the middle of a bed. We transplant May 11, 10 days later than the direct-sowing date. In the past we used wider in-row spacing, but found we could get a higher yield with the “hedge-like” closer spacing.
Some growers plant as close as 6” (15 cm) in the row, with 5’ (1.5m) between rows, or plant double rows with 12” (30 cm) between plants, and wider spacing between the beds. Thick planting requires very fertile soil, and risks diseases from poor air circulation. Wide spacing can lead to heavily branched plants, and more pods per plant, but not necessarily more pods for a given area. It may lead to a later start to the harvest, as flowering is delayed while the plant grows bigger.
Okra is slow-growing until hot weather arrives. We sometimes take advantage of this and its upright growth habit to transplant okra into a bed of early cabbage. We transplant cabbage in two rows along a 4’ (1.2 m) bed on March 10 and the okra in a single row down the middle on May 11. We mulch the cabbage, which has the disadvantage for the okra, of cooling the soil, so don’t try this if direct sowing! At first the cabbages are relatively small, and the okra uses the open space in the middle of the bed. As the plants grow, we remove outer leaves of the cabbage that might overshadow the okra. Finally, we harvest the cabbage and leave the okra to grow to full size. This method saves space, and efficiently uses our time to help two crops with one weeding.
This post is part of what I have written about okra in my book Sustainable Market Farming. Buy the book to read the rest, including crop rotations, pests and diseases, harvesting and post-harvest care of okra.
See my review of Chris Smith’s book The Whole Okra. Chris has grown 125 varieties of okra, and still counting, and cooked it in many different recipes. His book includes using the oil from the seeds, eating the leaves; making okra-stem drinking straws, okra seed tempeh, okra marshmallow delights; okra history and geography, medical and industrial uses and so much more. Here are instructions for freezing the sudden glut of okra that often arrives at some point in the summer, pickling (both by fermenting and with vinegar), drying (best when strung on dental floss). Best of all are the okra chips. Chris has a video of taste testing on YouTube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAy0pouxlME
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How to transplant okra / ladies finger seedlings
FAQ
What should not be planted next to okra?
When to plant out okra seedlings?
Plant okra in the spring or early summer after the danger of frost has passed. In northern climates, plant okra indoors four to six weeks prior to the last frost date. Since okra can reach 6 feet tall, plant it in an area of the garden where its shade won’t harm other plants’ growth.
What is the secret to growing okra?
Quick Guide to Growing Okra
Improve native soil by mixing in several inches of aged compost or other rich organic matter. Okra loves the heat and can withstand a dry spell, but do your best to give plants 1 inch of water every week. Harvest okra pods when they are 2 to 4 inches long.