May Rose or Rose Centifolia, Damask Rose or Rose Damascena. These are names as poetic as they are enigmatic. And they have been part of the secrets of human beauty and youth since the dawn of time! Revered in many cultures for its incomparable beauty, refined scent, and also for its cruel thorns, the rose has established itself as a universal symbol of beauty and love. Today, the rose’s beauty feeds the imagination of Sillages Paris.
Depending on the species, it is prized for its powerful and intoxicating (even animal) scent or its sweetness and powdery facets. And two species are favoured in perfumery: The Damask Rose and the May Rose. But how do you differentiate them? Read on, and we will explain everything you need to know to become a rose perfume expert!
The May rose, also known as the Rose de Mai or Rose Centifolia, is a coveted variety of rose that has been cultivated in France for centuries. Its delicate pink blooms and intoxicating floral scent have made it a prized ingredient in perfumes and skincare products. But where exactly is this flower grown?
A Long History in Grasse, France
The cultivation of the May rose is deeply rooted in the traditions of Grasse, a town nestled in the hills of Provence in southeastern France Since the Middle Ages, Grasse has been considered the perfume capital of the world thanks to its ideal climate and soil conditions for growing flowers like jasmine, tuberose, and of course, the May rose.
In Grasse, the harvest of the May rose takes place each spring during the month of May, hence its name For approximately five weeks, local workers move methodically among the rose bushes, plucking the newly opened pale pink buds by hand and gathering them into burlap sacks The flowers are then quickly transported to nearby facilities where their precious essential oil will be extracted through distillation before they can wilt.
Historically, the rose fields of Grasse supplied many prestigious French perfume houses like Chanel and Dior. Today, much of the May rose cultivation still takes place in the hills around Grasse, carried out by third-generation rose farmers like Aurélie Biancalana of Domaine de Manon. Her family has passed down the traditions of rose growing for almost a century.
The Role of Christian Dior
The renowned fashion designer Christian Dior also played an important role in cultivating and promoting the May rose. Dior established his country home, Château de la Colle Noire, near Grasse in the 1950s. There, he oversaw the planting of extensive May rose fields over 90 hectares, devoted to supplying the floral essence for his iconic Miss Dior perfume.
Even today, the House of Dior maintains close ties with rose growers in Grasse. Their latest eau de toilette, Miss Dior Rose N’Roses, features absolute oil from Centifolia roses sustainably grown by Dior’s exclusive partners in the Grasse region per tradition. The May rose remains a signature bloom of the Dior fragrance empire.
Expanding Beyond Grasse
While Grasse retains its status as the heart of May rose production, some cultivation has expanded beyond this region. Growers have found success cultivating Centifolia roses in other areas of Provence with similarly ideal growing conditions.
The luxury beauty brand Chantecaille operates its own rose fields in the hills of Grasse. But they’ve also partnered with small farms in other parts of southern France to produce their highly-prized pure rosewater, distilled entirely from May roses. This allows the brand to source enough of this rare, coveted flower to meet demand.
Likewise, Dior has expanded beyond Grasse to work with rose farmers in nearby Lauris, who produce flowers for the company’s perfumery. This demonstrates that while Grasse remains ground zero for May rose cultivation, the geography is flexible. Wherever conditions allow in Provence, farmers are growing this delicate flower on a small scale.
Why Provence?
What makes Provence in southeastern France so perfectly suited to growing the May rose? Several key factors:
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Climate: The region enjoys warm, sunny weather during the daytime with cooler nights. This allows roses to thrive without getting too stressed.
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Soil: The soil in Provence contains lots of porous limestone, which offers good drainage. Roses prefer soil that drains well.
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Tradition: Provence has centuries of experience and passed-down techniques for rose cultivation. This cultural knowledge is invaluable.
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Terroir: Similar to grapes, roses take on the unique characteristics of their “terroir” or place where they are grown. The Provençal terroir imbues the May rose with its distinctive scent and flavor.
While not impossible to grow elsewhere, the May rose achieves its peak expression when cultivated in the microclimates of Provence. For a flower as delicate and fleeting as the Centifolia, this region provides the perfect harmony of climate, soil, and generations of shared horticultural wisdom to allow it to thrive.
A Rare and Precious Ingredient
Oil from the May rose remains a rare and precious ingredient for perfumes, skincare, and more. As demand rises, the limited supply faces challenges. The flowers are incredibly delicate and must be harvested by hand during a short window in spring. The blooms bruise easily and have an extremely brief lifespan from harvest to distillation. It requires immense skill and care to cultivate these finicky roses successfully.
But committed growers in Provence are rising to meet the challenge through sustainable practices. They continue handing down cherished traditions so the exquisite May rose can be enjoyed for generations to come, wherever it may be cultivated in its Provençal homeland. The time-honored harvest endures as a beautiful rite of spring, delivering an extraordinarily soothing, velvety flower that has been part of Provence’s identity for centuries.
The May Rose or Rose Centifolia
At the beginning of the 19th century, Grasse established itself as one of the world centres of perfumery. Its emblematic rose is the May Rose, also known as the Rose Centifolia (“Hundred-leaves” in Latin refers to the large number of petals of the flower). The May Rose reached its peak in Grasse in the first half of the 20th century. At that time, 700 hectares were dedicated to its production, compared to only about fifty today.
But why such a decline? Its fragility, hand harvesting, and low yield make it a plant poorly adapted to industrial-scale production. The May rose is particularly capricious and only flowers once a year in May. Delicate and precious, it can only be used if it is harvested on the same day it blooms!
What does the May Rose smell like? The rose blends honeyed and floral notes that give an unparalleled subtlety to perfumes. Sometimes it can adopt animal facets and reveal leathery sides that are very elegant.
From Grasse to Kazanlak, the picking of the rose is done by hand according to age-old expertise. Once the flower opens and the pistil is visible, the sun’s rays and the morning heat quickly bring out its delicate scent.
The pickers get up at dawn to pick the flowers that have bloomed each day before nine o’clock in the morning! The hand gesture is repetitive but precise. You must not be abrupt so that you don’t mishandle the rose. The rose is grasped by the peduncle, then turned and slightly tugged with the wrist, taking care not to break the buds around it. A plant jewel, the rose dazzles again and again by its beauty.
The Damask Rose or Rose Damascena
Contrary to what its name suggests, the Damask rose is believed to have originated in India. It was then from Persia that it was brought to Europe in the middle of the 13th century by the knight Robert de Brie on his return from the Crusades. It was first cultivated in Bulgaria in the 17th century during the Ottoman Empire. Ever since, the Damask Rose has never ceased to fascinate. Recognizable by its sweet and suave fragrance, it is widely used in cosmetics and perfumery.
Kazanlak, in Bulgaria, capital of the famous “Valley of the Roses”, remains a major producer of this rose to this day. Lovers of the beautiful flower can visit the unique Rose Museum there! But Kazanlak is now facing competition from Isparta, the capital of the Turkish Rose. In Isparta, 320 tonnes of roses are produced every day!
The Damask Rose is particularly appreciated by the people of the Mediterranean. It has been used for over a hundred years as an eau de toilette, in skincare, as well as in pastries and drinks.
What does the Damask Rose smell like? Its scent is very flowery and slightly sweet. It is the rose we use for the most feminine perfumes, which smell like makeup powder and clean linen. Depending on the soil, it can be lemony, spicy, or fruity.
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FAQ
Which country produces the most rose?
France is still the world’s biggest producer and consumer of rosé wines by far. imports around the world. By volume, global rosé imports stabilized in 2022.
What is the rose of May plant?
‘Rose of May’ is a double daffodil (Division 4) that rises 12″ tall in spring and features fragrant, pure white, gardenia-like, double flowers. Excellent fresh cut flower. A late blooming daffodil.
Where are roses cultivated?
Most are found in Asia, with fewer numbers in America, Europe, and Africa.
What is the oldest cultivated rose?
Gallicas
The Gallicas begin with Rosa gallica officinalis, a species rose known before 1450 and commonly grown for its medicinal properties – perhaps related to its hips that are rich in Vitamin C – whence comes its alternative name, the “Apothecary’s Rose.”
How do you grow a May rose in Provence?
The May rose requires very specific conditions to thrive. Hot summers, mild winters, and chalky soil create the ideal terroir in Provence. The flower also demands painstaking hand cultivation. Growers prune the bushes throughout the year to encourage abundant blooms.
What is a damask rose & may rose?
The Damask rose and May rose are the varieties you smell in your perfumes. Two roses, two different vibes. The Damask Rose is a hybrid of the French rose, the musk rose, both European species, and the Fedtschenkoana rose from Central Asia. Originally from Bulgaria, it was introduced into Turkey by a farmer in 1894, who used it to make rose water.
Do may roses bloom in Grasse?
Each spring, the hillsides around Grasse burst into bloom with thousands of May rose bushes. During the height of the season, which lasts just a few short weeks in May, the perfume of the flowers fills the air for miles. The May rose requires very specific conditions to thrive.
Where do wild roses grow?
In North America, wild roses can be found in both the United States and Canada. Cultivated varieties adorn gardens across the continent. Some species have also been introduced to parts of Africa and Australia. The successful growth of roses depends on a combination of climate factors.
What is the difference between May Rose & Damask rose essential oil?
May rose essential oil is softer, honeyed, and fruity. The absolutes of both roses differ: May rose absolute is more resinous and honeyed, while Damask rose absolute is spicier with a hint of citrus. rose is present in 90% of women’s perfumes and 50% of men’s fragrances. In the Middle East, it’s a flower for men.