Will Peonies Grow in Shade? A Complete Guide to Growing These Beautiful Flowers in Less Light

Woodland Peonies are a group of herbaceous peonies noteworthy for their preference for shade. They are the first peony to bloom in the spring. They grow and naturalize in a deciduous woodland where they get early spring sun and summer shade. They are low-growing, self-seeding, and will create sprays of forest ground cover. Woodland peonies provide three-season appeal, offering delicate white flowers in early spring, lush green foliage throughout the growing seasons, and dramatic indigo and scarlet seed pods in the fall. Woodland peonies thrive in horticultural zones 3-8. Shade-loving, three-season appeal, good naturalizers.

Plant immediately upon receipt. Woodland peonies are shipped earlier than most of our other peonies. If it is still hot in your area, do not wait until later in the fall and do not store them in the refrigerator.

The roots of woodland peonies tend to spread out more horizontally than they do vertically in the humus-rich layer of topsoil. Like all peonies, they need good drainage and a relatively high level of organic matter in the soil (see amending the soil above). We recommend digging holes that are 1 foot wide by 8 inches deep.

Plant so that 0.5 to 1.5 inches of soil cover the top of the roots-peonies should be planted deeper in lower numbered zones and shallower in higher numbered zones. For example, most of Virginia will plant peonies at .5 inch, northern New Jersey will plant at 1 inch, and Maine will plant at 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil. Planted too deeply flowers will not develop, too shallowly and the tops of the eyes will freeze and die back in the winter.

Press down on the soil to remove air pockets around the root and lift the root as necessary so it does not settle more than 1.5 inches beneath the ground. Water in well. Avoid mulching your woodland peonies, as this will bury the top of the root too deep below the ground, and it will not flower. Natural leaf litter accumulation from the forest is fine.

Let the rain do most of the watering. Woodland peonies, like all peonies, dont like sprinkler systems. Instead, make sure they get regular soakings during drought. DO NOT PLANT WOODLAND PEONIES IN POTS. They need to be in the ground to spread out and naturalize in a deciduous woodland.

As your peony prefers to be planted and left in one location, it is worth taking the time to prepare the soil. Soil prep matters!

With soil amendments in mind, you have the options to dig individual holes or prepare an entire bed. Both require the soil to be amended to the depth of one foot. In all cases, after planting, get in the habit of lightly top dressing with compost at least once a year (more often if the soil in your area is particularly sandy).

The graphics below show growth expectations for woodland herbaceous peonies. Although rare, it is possible that a peony will not produce growth above ground the first spring. Peonies are very resilient and hardy, but do take time to establish and become a mature flowering plant.

Woodland peonies will mature to 3 feet wide, with more flowers and more stems being produced each year. The height, leaf coverage, and flower posture of your herbaceous peony depends on the cultivar.

Woodland peonies bloom very early and seem incredibly well suited for the cold. Spring frosts have the potential to damage peony buds and prevent flowering. If you anticipate a hard frost after your peonies have sprouted, you can protect your plants by covering them. Make sure the covering does not touch the plants.

That being said, growing commercially, we don’t have the option to protect our plants from frost. We have acres of peonies, and in our experience, frost damage is rare.

Woodland peonies have beautiful seedpods of indigo and scarlet. If let go naturally they will self-seed in an area, creating swaths of peonies like the clump pictured above. If you want to control the spread of your woodland peonies simply deadhead them after the bloom. Cut flowers back to the first set of leaves.

Planted in a deciduous woodland with rich soil and great drainage, woodland peonies can thrive almost entirely on their own as the nutrient cycle is self-sustaining. Nonetheless, a little food will help keep your peonies healthy and floriferous.

Feed lightly three times a year—in the fall when you clean up your garden and prepare plants for winter, in early spring just as shoots emerge, and again in early summer after plants have bloomed.

Compost: At Peony’s Envy, we primarily use locally-sourced compost, Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Emulsion, and OMRI-certified worm castings. When applying compost, thin layers are better than thick, and remember to apply at the drip line and not over the center of the plant, since applying on the root will bury the plant too deeply and eventually prevent flowering. For large-scale projects in the area, we recommend Full Circle Mushroom Compost.

Foliar Feeds: Plants absorb nutrients more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. Liquid fertilizers, such as Neptunes Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Nature’s Source plant food, can be used to foliar feed during critical growing times. We recommend foliar feeding in early spring when peonies are setting buds.

Worm castings: When first planting or to reinvigorate a garden after long-term neglect, we recommend using worm castings as an extra boost. It is garden gold, and a little goes a long way. As an added bonus, peonies will love its high pH.

If you choose to use synthetic or partially synthetic fertilizers, choose one that is well-balanced and releases nutrients at a slow rate. A 10-10-10 fertilizer is best for spring and summer, and a 5-10-10 is best for fall. Rarely do we use synthetic fertilizers at Peony’s Envy.

With the more frequent droughts we have adjusted our tips on watering. Peonies like heavy infrequent soakings; when irrigation is necessary, consider drip lines instead of overhead sprinkler systems. During the first growing season after planting a new peony, ensure it gets a good soaking once a week. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system. However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet, and be careful to not over water. Watering daily or use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is essential that your peony be planted in well-draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant. Established peonies require less supplemental watering but still benefit from heavy infrequent soakings, especially in times of drought.

Peonies are very resilient plants that typically thrive and grow without incident. However, every once in a while a fungus or virus may take hold and impact the health of your peony plants. Although infections generally start in early spring, they often go unnoticed until later in the summer. Left unchecked, these diseases can do real damage to your peonies.

If you are lucky enough to have mature peonies in your garden and they are blooming beautifully, first consider leaving them where they are, as peonies will sulk for a year or two after they are transplanted. If transplanting is inevitable, the time to do this is in the fall when the plants are dormant. If you are in a crunch, peonies can be transplanted successfully at other times of the year, but this is not recommended.

Before you start digging up your peony it is important to prepare the new location as mentioned on our Planting Page.

If you decide to transplant your peony in the fall, begin by cutting back the stems as you would do in fall cleanup. If you want to divide the peony before replanting, count the stems before digging. Plan ahead and pre-dig your holes-know that for every three to five stems, you can have approximately one new peony. See details on propagating/dividing below. Once this is done, lift your established woodland herbaceous peony using a large garden fork and begin at least eight inches from the base of the stem. Work your way around the plant and gently pry it from the ground. The roots are brittle and can easily be broken. Any time peonies are transplanted or divided, they take a few years to return to their previous grandeur.

Woodland peonies are prolific seeders and will self sow in your woodland if let go naturally. Seeds will produce plants similar to their parent. Seeds will ripen and be ready to plant in early fall. Plant the seeds one inch below the surface of the soil immediately after they ripen. Plant them outside in similar conditions favored by the mother plants. Mark them well and wait. It may take two years for a seeding to emerge and many for the plants to produce flowers.

Morning Sun Hours | Plant Performance----------------- | -----------------2-3 hours         | Minimal blooming4-6 hours         | Good blooming6+ hours          | Optimal blooming

Powdery Mildew – Erysiphales (Fungus)

If you are experiencing a white powder like covering on the leaves of your peony, you have powdery mildew in your garden.

SYMPTOMS: Leaves turn white. Onset is in late June through September. It is not fatal and tree peonies are less prone than herbaceous or intersectional peonies to this fungus. In some years, powdery mildew is worse than others. It can infect plants when there are hot days, high humidity, and cool nights. Once the plant is infected there are virtually no sprays or oils that will completely rid the plant of powdery mildew this year. However, there are some preventative remedies to keep your plants from getting powdery mildew in coming years.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Considered more unsightly than harmful in peonies.

TREATMENT: Bacillus subtilis to boost plants natural defenses; neem oil or other horticultural oils after the leaves have formed; baking soda spray (1t baking soda, 1qt. water and a few drops of liquid soap) on the soil in early spring and on the plant itself in the summer; rhubarb leaf tea; cornmeal as a soil amendment; or mixed as a spray; products containing sulfur, or a biofungicide recommended to treat powdery mildew on peonies;. All pesticides should be used according to package directions, and remedies should be tried on portions of the plant prior to making large scale applications.

Another good natural preventative remedy is to regularly spray a solution of 30% milk to 70% water on your plants on sunny days. This helps not only peonies, but all plants susceptible to powdery mildew.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Botrytis – Botrytis paeoniae (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Stalks wilt and die, buds turn black. Onset is typically in early spring but can be at any time when temperatures remain below 70 degrees. Botrytis is especially prevalent when the weather is cool, wet, and humid. Botrytis is common and when seen in your garden can persist for years through spores in the soil.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Botrytis is easy to treat but can kill peonies and other plants when not treated, so it is especially important to pay attention to signs of the fungus.

TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Throw out the diseased portions; do not compost. A more aggressive option would be to use systemic fungicide labeled for use on peonies. The cooperative extension service of New Jersey recommends Ferban and Manebrom. Griffin Greenhouse Supply recommends products including Cease, Daconil, Medallion, and Veranda-O. Follow label instructions carefully and test fungicides on one plant before making large scale applications. Continue to treat according to the label instructions as the disease persists. Their are OMRI approved fungicides for the treatment of botrytis.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Do Peonies need full sun or shade?