Do you want to grow prize winning garlic? Would you like to raise really large garlic bulbs? Garlic responds well to optimal growing conditions and with a little special care your crop can increase dramatically in size.
Picture: Tiny but cute Siberian bulb on the left and large elegant German Red bulb on the right. Wouldnt you rather grow the bigger bulb? The smaller bulb was grown using a tiny clove.
With a little effort and some soil preparation, you can grow huge gourmet garlic for top chefs, high end restaurants, CSA’s, Farmer’s Markets or yourself. It takes almost the same effort to cultivate a large as a small bulb.
Hardneck gourmet garlic can sell for $8-$30 pound (depending on market and quality). Careful marketing can offer you the best prices for your crop. See our grow organic garlic page or our Guide to Growing Garlic for some basic techniques and look over these tips to grow superior garlic.
Growing large flavorful garlic bulbs starts with selecting the right varieties and following key steps throughout the planting growing, and harvesting process. With some planning and care, you can cultivate prize-winning garlic with huge heads and robust taste perfect for any culinary use. This comprehensive guide shares expert tips for maximizing garlic size and quality.
Choosing the Best Garlic Varieties for Large Bulbs
Not all garlic varieties yield equal-sized bulbs. To grow big garlic, opt for hardneck types like Music, German Extra Hardy, or Romanian Red These tend to produce the largest heads with big cloves and strong aroma. Silverskin, Inchelium Red, and other softneck varieties also grow well but with smaller cloves
For cold climates, stick with hardneck varieties that need a cold period to form bulbs. In warm areas, softnecks like California Early White thrive better. Check regional growing guides to pick the best types for your location.
Always select large, healthy cloves for seed garlic. Bigger cloves have more energy to fuel growth, producing bigger bulbs. Eat smaller cloves and reserve the largest for planting.
Preparing the Soil for Optimal Garlic Growth
Great garlic starts with rich, loose soil amended with compost or manure. Aim for a soil pH between 6.0-7.0. Garlic prefers slightly acidic to neutral levels.
Work compost or rotted manure into beds before planting. This boosts organic matter, nutrients, and soil structure. Well-draining soil is also key to prevent bulbs from rotting. Consider raised beds for improved drainage.
A soil test determines any nutrient deficiencies you need to correct with organic fertilizers. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are important. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen before planting as it can cause excessive leaf growth over bulbs.
Planting Garlic for Maximum Bulb Size
Timing
In cold areas, plant garlic in fall about 2 weeks before first frost, typically September/October. In warm climates, plant in early spring as soon as soil can be worked. This timing allows good root growth before winter or summer.
Spacing and Depth
Space garlic cloves 6-8 inches apart in all directions. Close spacing stunts growth. Plant individual cloves 2-4 inches deep, up to 6 inches deep in cold climates for insulation.
Site Selection
Choose a spot getting full sun to fuel plant growth. Ensure excellent drainage. Raise beds in soggy areas. Garlic hates wet feet! Mulch beds after planting to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Caring for Garlic During the Growing Season
Watering
Garlic needs 1-2 inches of water weekly. More in hot or sandy conditions. Avoid overwatering that leads to rot. Use drip irrigation for efficiency. Cut back watering when bulbs start forming.
Fertilizing
Top dress garlic in early spring with blood meal, compost, or other organic nitrogen fertilizer to fuel leaf growth and bulb sizing. Avoid late season nitrogen that makes leaves grow rather than bulbs.
Weeding
Control weeds to prevent competition for water and nutrients. Mulch to suppress weeds. Hand pull any that get through.
Removing Scapes
Snap off curly scapes emerging from hardneck garlic to direct energy into the bulbs, not seeds. Scapes are delicious sautéed, roasted, or pesto!
Keeping Soil Cool
Use shade fabrics and organic mulch to keep soil temperatures cool, ideally below 80°F, until at least early summer. Warm soils shut down bulb growth prematurely.
Harvesting Garlic for Maximum Size
Start checking garlic in mid-summer. Bulbs are ready when lower leaves start yellowing and drying up but 5-6 upper leaves are still green. Harvest promptly to avoid split bulbs.
Cure garlic for 2-4 weeks in a shaded, well-ventilated area before storage. Leave tops on during curing. When fully cured and dried, trim roots and tops to 1-2 inches. Store cured bulbs at 50°F and 60% humidity.
By selecting the best varieties, preparing soil properly, providing optimal care, and harvesting at peak maturity, you can grow huge garlic bulbs bursting with flavor. Follow these tips for your best garlic crop ever!
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Big Garlic
What’s the best time to plant garlic for big bulbs?
In cold climates, plant garlic in fall 2 weeks before first frost, typically September-October. In warm areas, plant in early spring when soil can be worked.
Which garlic varieties yield the biggest bulbs?
Hardneck types like Music, Romanian Red, and German Extra Hardy produce the largest bulbs and cloves. Silverskin and Inchelium Red are good softneck options.
How important is soil preparation?
Vital! Garlic needs rich soil amended with compost/manure for nutrients and organic matter. Good drainage is also crucial. Raised beds can improve soggy soils.
Should I remove scapes from hardneck varieties?
Yes! Removing scapes redirects energy from seeds to enlarging the bulb. Enjoy scapes sautéed, roasted, or in pesto.
When is garlic ready to harvest for maximum size?
When lower leaves yellow and dry up but 5-6 upper leaves are still green. Don’t wait until all leaves brown. Harvest promptly once bulb growth ceases.
How long do I cure garlic after harvest?
Cure bulbs for 2-4 weeks in a cool, dry, shaded spot with good air circulation. Curing dries outer skins and enhances flavor.
What causes small bulbs?
Small bulbs can result from poor soil, overcrowding, insufficient water during growth, warm soils, over-fertilizing with nitrogen, or harvesting too early or late.
Can I plant grocery store garlic?
You can plant grocery garlic, but quality is unreliable. Opt for certified disease-free bulbs from a reputable source. Avoid treated bulbs that won’t sprout well.
What’s the difference between hardneck and softneck garlic?
Hardneck garlic produces larger bulbs with bigger cloves and stronger flavor. Softnecks yield smaller cloves but store longer with more subtle flavor.
How do I cure garlic after harvest?
After harvesting, allow bulbs to dry for 2-4 weeks in a cool, shaded, well-ventilated spot. Keep tops on during curing. Once fully dried, trim tops and roots to 1-2 inches before storing.
What causes garlic cloves to rot?
Excess moisture and poor drainage often cause rot. Avoid overwatering. Improve drainage by planting in raised beds. Space cloves properly to allow air circulation.
Don’t forget to weed:
Garlic yield can be reduced by over half due to weeds! When we first started raising garlic a small portion of the field got away from us and resulted in a weed tangle. Those were the smallest bulbs I have ever seen. I still keep a handful of those bulbs to remind myself that weeding pays. Mulching can help prevent weeds, too.
Prepare soil well:
Soil should be loose, loamy and easy to dig. Garlic needs well drained soil or it will rot. Add manure or compost before fall planting. Our garlic bulbs grow the largest in the area of the field where the soil has been amended to 13% organic matter (using a mix of horse manure in sawdust plus cow manure). German Red especially likes rich soil. The rest of our field is around 6% organic matter and produces well but the bulbs are slightly smaller. Take a soil test to check for major and minor nutrients. Garlic normally needs extra nitrogen (blood meal is a good organic source of nitrogen). Supplement with nitrogen after planting and several times during the growing season. Stop nitrogen supplementation before garlic scapes in late spring or early summer. Too much nitrogen at this time can cause excess leaf growth at the expense of bulb growth.
Another important supplement is potassium (K). Potassium increases size of bulb and total garlic yield. Volk and Stern (2009) reported that soil potassium concentrations were associated with garlic bulb circumference and fresh bulb weight.