Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia, syn. Salvia yangii) offers carefree color, with an open airy habit and dreamy drifts of lavender-blue flowers that bloom from mid-summer into fall.
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Russian sage is a herbaceous woody perennial or subshrub that’s easy to grow and virtually maintenance free once established. The attractive tubular flowers, which bloom over an exceptionally long time, are a favorite of hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Native to central Asia, this mint relative has silvery-green leaves that exude a pungent scent when crushed.
Hardy in USDA zones 4-9, Russian sage will benefit from winter protection in colder regions. Most varieties reach 2-3 feet tall and wide, though some can be larger. Russian sage has good heat and drought tolerance, making it suitable for waterwise landscapes. This versatile perennial plant is useful as filler in a mixed border and can also be planted as hedging, massed in the landscape, or in containers.
Hey there fellow gardeners! I’ve battled with Russian sage taking over my garden, and I know firsthand how frustrating it can be. Today I’m sharing my tried-and-tested methods to help you reclaim your garden from this beautiful but aggressive plant.
Understanding Russian Sage
Before we dive into removal methods, let’s quickly understand what we’re dealing with:
- Scientific name: Perovskia atriplicifolia
- Height: 2-5 feet tall
- Spread: 2-4 feet wide
- Growing zones: USDA 5-9
- Characteristics: Lavender-blue flowers, silver foliage
- Problem: Spreads aggressively through rhizomes and self-seeding
Most Effective Removal Methods
1. Manual Removal (My Preferred Method)
For small infestations. here’s what’s worked best for me
- Water the soil thoroughly (1-2 inches) two days before removal
- Dig around clumps about 8-10 inches deep
- Remove ALL roots (those sneaky things love to regrow!)
- Dispose in trash (NOT compost – trust me on this one!)
Pro tip I’ve found the soil is way easier to work with when it’s slightly moist, not bone dry.
2. Chemical Control
If manual removal ain’t your thing (or possible), here’s the chemical route:
-
Choose a herbicide containing:
- Glyphosate (most effective)
- Prodiamine (good alternative)
-
Application steps:
- Cut plants back to 6 inches
- Let regrow slightly
- Apply herbicide on a calm day
- Spray late afternoon to avoid quick drying
Important: Always follow the label instructions! I learned this the hard way when I accidentally killed my favorite petunias
3. Smothering Method
This is perfect for those who prefer organic methods:
- Layer cardboard or thick landscape fabric
- Add 4-6 inches of mulch on top
- Maintain coverage for one growing season
- Monitor edges for sneaky sprouts
Prevention Tips
Once you’ve gotten rid of Russian sage, here’s how to keep it from coming back:
- Install root barriers
- Remove flowers before they set seed
- Monitor regularly for new growth
- Consider planting in containers instead
When to Call the Pros
Sometimes, we gotta admit defeat. Consider professional help if:
- Infestation covers more than half an acre
- Plants are growing under/around large rocks
- Multiple removal attempts have failed
- You need special permits
Natural Alternatives for Control
Here’s something cool I learned from my experience – planting competitive species around Russian sage can help control its spread. Try:
- Chocolate flower
- Mexican hat plants
- Native grasses
These plants compete for water and nutrients, naturally limiting Russian sage’s growth.
Time and Patience
Look, I won’t sugar-coat it – getting rid of Russian sage takes time. I spent nearly a whole season battling mine. Some days, I felt like giving up, but persistence is key. Keep at it, and you’ll eventually win the war against this stubborn plant.
Seasonal Considerations
Timing matters! Here’s when to tackle Russian sage removal:
| Season | Effectiveness | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Good | Plant is starting new growth |
| Summer | Fair | Plant is established |
| Fall | Best | Plant is preparing for dormancy |
| Winter | Poor | Frozen ground makes removal difficult |
Remember, there’s no quick fix, but with these methods and a bit of patience, you can definitely get your garden back! Feel free to drop a comment if you’ve got questions – I’m always happy to help fellow gardeners in their battle against invasive plants!
Last updated: July 2025
When to cut back Russian sage?
Seed heads and stems can be left through winter for ornamental interest. Cut plants down to 6 inches in early spring when plants break dormancy.
PLANTING & CARING FOR RUSSIAN SAGE
How to plant: Russian sage thrives in hot, dry conditions and well-draining soils. Choose a site that receives 6-8 hours of full sun. Follow these steps and space plants 2-3 feet apart.
- Loosen soil in the planting area and dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the root ball.
- Remove the plant from the nursery pot and loosen the soil around the roots.
- Set the plant in the hole with the top of the crown level with the soil.
- Backfill the hole with soil and tamp down slightly to remove air pockets.
- Water well.
Soil: Russian sage prefers average to lean soil with a slightly alkaline pH, though is tolerant of various soils. Plants may flop if soil is too rich. Make sure there is adequate drainage to prevent root rot. For containers, use a high-quality all-purpose potting mix.
Watering: Russian sage prefers medium to dry soil, and is drought tolerant once established. Overwatering can cause disease and root rot. Water regularly through the first growing season to encourage a deep root system.
Fertilizing: Russian sage needs little or no supplemental fertilizer. If desired, lightly mulch with compost in spring.
Staking: Larger varieties are prone to flopping. A lack of light or overly rich soil can also cause plants to lean or fall over. Stake drooping stalks as needed. To prevent flopping, plant in masses or among other plants for support.
The Best Time to Prune Russian Sage and How To Do It!
FAQ
How to get rid of Russian sage?
However, Russian sage is sometimes aggressive and can grow outside its intended space. If you want to get rid of the Russian sage in your garden, you can remove it manually or kill it with a chemical herbicide. Water the soil with approximately 1 to 2 inches of soil two days before removing the Russian sage manually.
Should I cut back Russian sage?
If your plants tend to flop during the summer you can cut them a second time. Prune the plants back halfway once they reach 12 inches. Those considering adding Russian sage to their gardens may want to try Little Spires, a shorter (four foot tall) cultivar that is less prone to flopping.
How do you dig a Russian sage plant?
Water the soil with approximately 1 to 2 inches of soil two days before removing the Russian sage manually. Slightly moist soil is easier to dig in than extremely dry soil. Dig around clumps of Russian sage and dig about 8 to 10 inches deep to get all the roots. Adjust the digging as necessary to remove all the roots.
Can Russian sage grow outside?
They are hardy in U. S. Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 9 and are excellent landscape plants, including in rock gardens. However, Russian sage is sometimes aggressive and can grow outside its intended space. You can get rid of Russian sage in your garden by pulling it out by hand or killing it with a flower killer.
How long does it take to kill Russian sage?
It may take several months of persistent removal to kill the plants completely. Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) is a popular ornamental plant grown for its spiky lavender-blue flower spikes and silver foliage. While beautiful, this hardy perennial can spread aggressively and become weedy.
Can you use herbicide on Russian sage?
It is illegal to use herbicides in any other manner. Remove or apply the herbicide continually whenever Russian sage sprouts grow back. It may take several months of persistent removal to kill the plants completely.