There’s no denying the charm of a redbud in full bloom. Their early-spring flowers light up the landscape with shades of pink, purple, or even white, long before most trees have so much as thought about leafing out.
Add in their signature heart-shaped leaves and graceful branching, and it’s easy to see why Cercis species are beloved across gardens and natural areas alike.
If you’ve fallen for a redbud and want more, you might be tempted to try your hand at propagation—and you wouldn’t be alone. But fair warning: these trees can be tricky to multiply.
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We’d recommend that beginners stick with buying an improved cultivar at a local or online nursery. These can give you a variety of different spring and fall leaf colors along with beautiful blooms.
Still, if you’re curious and up for the challenge, there are a few propagation methods that can work with a little know-how, patience, and the right materials.
In addition to the following methods, it’s possible to propagate these via grafting, but it’s so unreliable and challenging that we don’t recommend it unless you’re already an expert grafter.
For most gardeners, growing from seed, rooting cuttings, or transplanting nursery stock offers the best chance at success.
We’ll walk through each of these approaches, what to expect, and how to give your redbud propagation project the best possible start.
Because redbuds don’t always root easily from cuttings and often show poor seed germination without the right treatment, patience is key no matter which route you choose.
Propagating seed takes some work. The seeds, which appear in the fall, need to be dried, scarified, and stratified before planting.
Not feeling daunted? Head out in the fall and look for the seed pods on a mature tree. They’re long and pea-pod shaped, and they should be brown at this point.
Collect and lay the pods on a screen or hang them from a piece of string to allow them to air dry.
After a few days, remove the seeds from inside the pods. Even if you only want to grow one tree, prepare several seeds just to be safe.
One option at this point is to soak the seeds in sulfuric acid for 30 minutes. You can often find this at stores sold in the drain cleaner aisle.
Keep in mind this is strong, poisonous stuff, so heed all safety precautions on the label. That means wearing protective gear like gloves, eye protection, and a mask.
Or you can submerge the seeds in nearly boiling water held at 180°F for about a minute.
Drain and rinse the seeds carefully if you used acid, or drain and allow the seeds to cool if you prepared them in water.
Fill a jar or resealable bag with equal parts sand and sphagnum moss and moisten it so it feels like a well-wrung-out sponge. Bury the seeds in the sand, seal, and place the bag or jar in the fridge.
Occasionally check to make sure the sand mix is moist and there’s no mold forming. If you see mold, remove the seeds and place them in fresh sand in a clean bag or jar.
After about five weeks – though it might take up to 10 weeks – you should start to see growth. The second you see growth emerging from a seed, plant it.
To do this, fill a six-inch compostable pot with potting mix. Sow one germinated seed a quarter-inch deep in each container.
Place the containers outside in a spot that receives partial sun, about six hours per day. Bring them back inside any time the temperature drops below 35°F.
Once a seedling is about six inches tall, you can plant it in the ground. It’s best to transplant either in the fall or spring, and you should avoid planting in the winter or summer.
It is possible to propagate redbuds from cuttings, but they don’t take reliably, which is why growers tend to rely on propagating seed when possible instead.
In early summer, take a few six-inch cuttings of soft, pliable wood from the tips of healthy branches. Place the cuttings in water until you get them inside and are ready to plant, which you should do right away.
When you’re ready, cut the end of each at a 45-degree angle, remove any leaves from the bottom half, and dip the cut ends in a rooting hormone.
a lot of propagating, you should definitely invest in some rooting hormone powder. It helps roots to grow more quickly and increases the number of roots that form initially.
The rooting hormone step is optional for propagating some types of plants, but it’s mandatory in this case to improve your chances of success.
Plant each cutting an inch or two deep in a six-inch pot filled with potting soil.
Place the pots on a heated mat to keep the soil at 72 to 78°F. If the soil temperature drops into the 60s, rooting success rates drop off dramatically.
The easiest way to do this is to cover them with a cloche or other type of cover and mist them daily. You can also use a humidifier.
Keep the cuttings in a place where they’ll receive six hours per day of supplemental lighting.
Electric grow lights are preferred to natural sunlight here because you can regulate the exposure, and LED bulbs won’t heat the soil or interior of the cover excessively like direct sunlight might.
Redbud trees, with their striking purple-pink blooms in early spring and heart-shaped green leaves, are truly one of the joys of the garden. Their relatively small size makes them ideal for residential landscapes, and their resilience allows them to thrive in a wide range of climates and soil conditions.
If you already have a beautiful redbud tree growing on your property you may have wondered if it’s possible to propagate more trees from cuttings for free. The good news is yes, with a little knowledge and care, you can absolutely grow new redbud trees from cuttings taken from an existing tree.
In this comprehensive guide we’ll walk through everything you need to know to successfully propagate redbud trees from cuttings.
An Overview of Redbud Tree Propagation
Redbud trees can be propagated through several methods, including seeds, layering, grafting, and by far the most common – taking and rooting stem cuttings. Starting redbud trees from cuttings is a simple, cost-effective propagation method that backyard gardeners can easily accomplish.
While propagation from seed can produce quality plants, starting redbuds from cuttings allows you to duplicate the exact characteristics you value in the parent plant. This includes flowering time, flower color, leaf shape, branching pattern, and overall form. Clones from cuttings will retain the genetics of the parent plant.
When to Take Cuttings from a Redbud Tree
Timing is important when collecting cutting material from redbud trees. The ideal time to take stem cuttings is late winter through early summer when the plant is not actively growing. Mid-June through mid-July is generally best.
Avoid taking cuttings during times of active growth in mid to late spring when the stems are rapidly elongating and leaves are still expanding The carbohydrate levels in the stems are lower during active growth, which can impede root formation
You’ll have the best success with cuttings taken when the stems have hardened off a bit but still retain some flexibility. The cuttings need time to form callus tissue and initiate root growth before winter dormancy sets in.
Selecting the Best Cuttings from a Redbud Tree
Pick healthy stems from new growth that has firmed up – about the thickness of a pencil. Select branches growing from the outer canopy that receive direct sunlight if possible. Avoid branches that appear diseased, damaged, or distressed.
Look for stems that are smooth, supple, and free of blemishes. The ideal cutting is about 4 to 6 inches long. Aim for cuttings with at least two nodes or leaf joints. Remove all but the top couple sets of leaves to reduce water loss.
Make the bottom cut just below a node and the top cut right above one, at an angle to maximize the stem area for better water absorption. Use sterilized, sharp pruners to avoid crushing the stems.
Rooting Redbud Cuttings in Water
One of the easiest ways to root redbud cuttings is in plain water. Prepare your cuttings as described above, keeping a couple sets of leaves at the tip end. Remove any flower buds, which can sap energy from the cutting as it tries to form roots.
Place the cuttings in a container of room-temperature water, deep enough to submerge the bottom 1-2 inches of stem. Change the water every 2-3 days to prevent fungal growth. Place the container in a bright location out of direct sunlight.
Check for root formation in 3-4 weeks. Once a network of 1-2 inch roots has developed, plant the cutting into a container with well-draining potting mix, keeping the soil evenly moist. Gradually transition the young plant to more sun over a period of 2 weeks.
Rooting Redbud Cuttings in a Growing Medium
While water rooting certainly works, some gardeners have better success starting cuttings in a soilless potting mix. Rooting hormone powders can also speed up the process.
Moisten a sterile, soilless potting mix and fill 3-4 inch pots, leaving 1⁄2 inch from the rim. Poke holes with a pencil about 2 inches deep. Dip the end of each cutting in rooting hormone and place in the hole, gently firming the mix around it.
Cover the pots with clear plastic bags to create a humid environment. Place in indirect light, out of direct sun. Check periodically and mist with water if needed to keep the mix evenly moist.
Look for root growth in 4-6 weeks. Harden off the rooted cuttings for a week or two by gradually exposing them to more sun and less water before transplanting into larger containers or the garden.
Caring for Redbud Cuttings for the Best Root Growth
Proper care is crucial during the root formation period. Here are a few key factors that contribute to successful rooting of redbud cuttings:
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Air Circulation – Some airflow around the cuttings helps prevent fungal issues but avoid full sun/wind which can dry them out.
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Stable Warmth – Consistent temperatures around 70°F are ideal. Cooler temperatures can delay growth.
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Moisture – Keep the root zone evenly moist but not soggy. Mist leaves periodically.
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Light – Bright indirect light encourages root growth. Avoid direct hot sun.
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Nutrients – Use a rooting hormone and a soilless mix to provide nutrients for new root tissue.
Respond quickly if cuttings show signs of shriveling, browning of leaves, or fungal growth. Adding a fungicide and enclosing in a plastic tent can help revive distressed cuttings.
Transplanting Rooted Redbud Cuttings
Once the cuttings have developed a vigorous root system, it’s time to transplant them to a larger pot or into the garden. Follow these tips for the best results:
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Gradually expose to more sun 1-2 weeks before transplanting.
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Water the cuttings thoroughly the day before.
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Keep the root ball intact when transplanting to minimize disturbance.
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Plant into well-draining soil enriched with compost.
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Water in well and top dress with mulch to retain moisture.
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Stake if needed to stabilize in windy areas.
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Continue to water regularly until established, easing off gradually.
Troubleshooting Common Redbud Cutting Issues
Taking and rooting cuttings does require some patience and care. Here are some potential issues and solutions:
Problem: Cuttings shriveling or drying out
Solution: Increase humidity and moisture levels. Cover with plastic tent. Mist leaves frequently.
Problem: Leaves yellowing or cuttings losing vigor
Solution: Move to brighter (not direct) light. Avoid overwatering.
Problem: Cut ends browning
Solution: Use sterilized, sharp pruners. Recut tops of stems. Apply fungicide if fungal.
Problem: Few or no roots forming
Solution: Take cuttings earlier next year. Use rooting hormone. Ensure warm temps.
The Reward of Growing Your Own Redbud Trees
While it does take some time and care, starting redbud trees from cuttings of a beloved tree in your own landscape is incredibly rewarding. Taking cuttings also allows you to propagate rare or hard-to-find cultivated varieties.
Transplanting Saplings or Bare Roots
Planting a sapling or bare root tree is best done in the early spring or late fall when the ground is workable.
Pick a spot with the right sun exposure and spacing from other plants or structures – we cover this in more detail in our redbud growing and care guide.
Once you’ve nailed down the right spot, dig away. Make sure you aren’t digging into any utility cables.
Dig a hole that is twice as wide and twice as deep as the container that the sapling is currently growing in, or three times as wide and twice as deep as the root ball.
Fill in the bottom half of the hole with a mixture of well-rotted compost and native soil.
Remove the sapling from the container and gently loosen up the roots. Place it in the hole, and make sure it’s sitting at the same level that it was inside the container.
For bare root plants, the entire root ball should be buried sitting just below the soil line. The trunk can not tolerate being buried at all.
You don’t want the plant to be positioned any deeper or more shallow than it was before if it came in a pot filled with soil from the nursery. If necessary, adjust the quantity of soil in the base of the hole.
Fill in around the sides with a mixture of compost and native soil. Firm the soil around the roots and water well. If the soil settles, add a bit more.
How to Make Cuttings From a Redbud Tree
FAQ
Can you start a red bud tree from a branch?
“Description: The simplest way to grow redbuds is to scarify seeds and plant outdoors in the fall. Cuttings are nearly impossible. Seedlings which may develop around mature trees are easily moved when very small.
How to grow a redbud tree from cuttings?
Growing a redbud tree from cuttings is possible but challenging, requiring specific conditions and timing. The best time to take cuttings is in spring or early summer, just after the flowers fade and leaves emerge. Softwood cuttings, typically taken from the tips of branches, should be about 6-8 inches long, with the lower leaves removed.
What are the disadvantages of redbud trees?
Redbud trees may face issues such as canker disease, causing branch dieback, and verticillium wilt, leading to wilting and discoloration of leaves.
Can you grow a tree from cut branches?
Starting a tree from a branch is less expensive than buying from a nursery and faster than growing from seed. Plus, if a particular tree species is already thriving in your yard, odds are the next one will, too. In some cases, growing a new tree from a branch is a faster method than traditional planting.Apr 23, 2025