Mulch is every gardener’s best friend. This organic or inorganic protective layer helps retain moisture, suppress weeds moderate soil temperature, and improve soil health over time. But what if you need to add fresh soil after applying mulch? Is it okay to spread soil directly on top of the mulch? Or does the mulch layer need to be removed first before topping up with new soil?
In this article, we’ll explore the pros and cons of placing soil over existing mulch. I’ll share expert recommendations on this common gardening dilemma so you can make an informed decision for your unique situation.
Why Add New Soil Over Mulch?
There are several valid reasons you may need or want to add soil on top of current mulch layers including
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Raising low spots or filling in depressions – Mulch can settle unevenly over time, leaving dips and hollows in the landscape bed. Adding a shallow layer of fresh soil is an easy way to level and smooth the surface.
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Topping up raised garden beds – Raised beds often sink and lose soil depth gradually due to settling, erosion, decomposition of organic matter, etc. Spreading new soil replaces what was lost.
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Planting new seeds or transplants – Most seeds and plants need fresh, nutrient-rich soil placed around their roots for optimal growth. It’s natural to want to add soil amendments before planting.
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Replenishing fertility – Soil nutrients can become depleted from the top few inches of soil over a growing season. Renewing the soil layer restores vital nutrients for plants.
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Converting ornamental beds to edibles – Beds previously used for flowers and shrubs generally need nutrient reconditioning before growing vegetables and herbs.
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Changing mulch type – Some mulches like landscape fabric, plastic sheeting, or rubber require separation from the soil, so new soil layers get added over the existing mulch.
These practical reasons often motivate gardeners to spread new soil over mulch. However, many experts advise against this shortcut. Let’s look at why it’s usually best to remove mulch first.
Reasons to Avoid Placing Soil Directly Over Mulch
While adding soil on top of mulch might seem like an easy fix, it can create several issues over both the short and long-term:
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Can impede drainage and water penetration as moisture moves differently through distinct layers.
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Organic mulches like bark and wood chips decompose at uneven rates, leaving bumpy, irregular beds.
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Weeds can germinate in the fresh soil layer and be difficult to control without disrupting beds.
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New carbon-rich mulch material can deplete nitrogen from the soil as microbes break it down.
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Mulch and soil can mix together over time, altering the ideal texture and performance of both.
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Prevents rejuvenating effects of direct contact between decomposing mulch and underlying soil.
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Can encourage fungal growth, disease, and root rot at the intersection of the two layers.
To avoid these potential problems, it’s best to follow proper mulch and soil layering techniques.
Proper Layering Methods for Mulch and Soil
The standard recommendation is to layer materials in this order from bottom to top:
- Existing native soil base
- Soil amendments (compost, manure, topsoil etc)
- Mulch layer
This sequence allows the soil to receive the full benefits of mulch decomposition without negatively impacting drainage, texture, nutrients, or beneficial microbial activity.
Before adding new soil or mulch layers:
- Remove any previous mulch down to the soil surface.
- Refresh and amend the soil as needed, digging or tilling at least 6 inches deep.
- Mix 1-2 inches of finished compost or high-quality topsoil throughout the soil base.
- Level and firm the refreshed soil before applying mulch.
Follow the general 1-2-3 rule:
- Loosened and graded soil base
- 1-2 inches of compost or organic top dressing worked into the soil
- 2-3 inches of fresh mulch material
This proper layering technique supports healthy plants, conserves moisture, and continually improves rather than depletes the soil.
Best Practices for Adding New Soil Before Mulching
When it’s time to replenish mulch areas, keep these best practices in mind:
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Remove all existing mulch completely and discard or compost it. Rake away any weeds.
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Loosen the top 2-3 inches of soil using a hoe, rake or garden fork. Break up clumps and remove rocks, sticks, and debris.
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Work 1-2 inches of finished compost, worm castings, healthy topsoil or a mixed organic amendment into the soil.
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Level and rake the bed to smooth any low spots or uneven areas. Lightly firm the enriched soil.
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Apply 2-3 inches of fresh mulch material. Less if reusing quality mulch.
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For new plantings, prepare each hole and bed separately. Mulch generously around new plants.
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Use 1-2 inch compost top dressing instead of soil when refreshing permanent no-dig garden beds. Digging disrupts soil ecology.
Follow these simple practices for gorgeous, productive gardens and improved soil quality over time.
Key Factors That Impact the Soil Over Mulch Decision
Certain variables like mulch type, soil conditions, plant selections and more will determine how strictly you need to separate soil and mulch layers. Consider these factors:
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Mulch material – Fine shredded mulches are more porous than bulky wood chips. Landscape fabric separates completely.
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Drainage – Heavy clay or compacted soils are prone to waterlogging. Keep layers distinct.
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Soil needs – Nutrient deficient, compacted, or contaminated soils benefit more from reconditioning.
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Plantings – Turfgrass tolerates integration more than garden plants. Don’t mix for vegetable beds.
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Timeframe – Occasional light mixing may be acceptable. Don’t make it a regular practice.
Evaluate each unique situation to decide the best way to enhance soils before applying protective mulch.
Alternatives to Putting Soil Over Mulch
If you have a substantial layer of mulch that seems impractical to remove completely, consider these alternatives:
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Top dress with 1-2 inches of fresh compost instead of soil. Compost integrates more safely.
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Double grind thick mulch layers using a chipper-shredder. This allows some soil integration.
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Remove mulch sections periodically over time rather than all at once. Re-mulch areas in phases.
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For new plantings, excavate discrete holes/beds to amend soil rather than topping the entire bed.
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Use a core aerator to punch holes and fill with compost. This distributes organic matter into the root zone.
With patience and the right techniques, even heavy mulch layers can be refreshed while preserving the soil underneath.
When Integration of Soil and Mulch May Be Acceptable
In certain low-risk scenarios, lightly integrating thin layers of new soil into old mulch may be permissible:
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Small amounts of compost or manure mixed naturally into shredded mulch over time.
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Light dustings of high-quality topsoil or compost across ornamental beds.
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Thin layers under turfgrass that can tolerate minor soil mixing.
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Minor soil deposition from watering, rain, or wind that integrates traces of soil into the mulch.
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Double grinding thick mulch first or removing sections periodically rather than all at once.
Monitor any integration closely and avoid thick layers of soil directly on top of undisturbed mulch.
Can you add soil on top of existing mulch? In most cases, it’s best practice to remove mulch completely before amending and replenishing the underlying soil. But with the proper precautions, occasional light integration of thin soil layers into mulch may be low risk.
Assess each unique situation and tailor your approach accordingly. Using mindful techniques like proper layering, top dressing with compost, and gradual mulch removal over time, you can refresh soil health while keeping mulch benefits intact. With some care and common sense, existing mulch layers can be successfully maintained and renewed as needed.
Alborn Supply of Ocean County Helps identify the difference between Topsoil, mulch, and compost
A: Topsoil-mulch-compost ⦠understanding the difference between this dynamic soil trio, as well has specific uses for each product, is essential for a successful landscaping project.
A well-dressed lawn or landscape will include layers of different materials that create an ideal environment for healthy growth. First is the topsoil, then the compost and, finally, a mulch to blanket it all.
Topsoil is the layer of humus (partially decomposed organic matter) between the surface and the subsoil. Once upon a time, topsoil was a deep, rich, organic layer. Today, in developed regions of the world, topsoil is very thin or nonexistent, scraped or eroded away over time. What passes as topsoil may actually be inert subsoil.
If topsoil is poor, make your own. Add 2-3 inches of a quality compost product and incorporate to a depth of 6-8 inches. The goal is to reach a level of about 5 percent organic matter in the soil. It is possible to build to this level over time with lighter, but more frequent, compost applications raked into the top layer of soil. But these two products â compost and topsoil â are not interchangeable.
Compost is not topsoil. It can be used to make topsoil or improve topsoil, but is the wrong product for many applications that call for topsoil. Don’t use compost as fill dirt, for example.
Conversely, topsoil is not compost and will not perform like compost. Adding topsoil alone does not ensure soil performance, especially if the “topsoil” is mostly inert and contains little to no organic matter or active soil microbes.
Mulch is a material applied to the soil surface to discourage weeds, provide shade and reduce moisture loss through evaporation.  Bark, wood chips, shredded yard waste and sawdust are all used as mulch, but unless manufactured by a state-permitted composting facility, the resulting product is not compost. In fact, fresh wood mulches can compete with plants for nutrients, and uncomposted organic materials can contain weed seeds, untreated pet waste, and lawn chemicals.
A properly managed composting process breaks down many pollutants and kills weed seeds and pathogens. Compost makes an excellent mulch for holding moisture and shading roots from the summer sun. Any unwanted airborne “volunteers” that take up residence in a planting bed where compost is used as a mulch can be easily removed during routine maintenance. Mulching with compost also allows earthworms to till the compost into the soil, rebuilding topsoil with no additional work on the part of the landscaper or gardener.
Compost is the product resulting from the aerobic (with air) biodegradation of plant and animal (organic) matter. It is a soil amendment. Using compost completes the natural soil cycle, returning organic material to the soil to grow a new generation of ornamental, food and fiber crops.
Look for compost that is dark in color, has an “earthy” aroma, and offers an even texture. If the “compost” is lumpy or contains a lot of twigs and sticks, it’s mulch masquerading as compost or is compost manufactured to a low standard. Immature, woody composts can actually compete with plants or contain pockets of material that are not fully composted. Either way, pass it by in favor of a higher quality product. Â
Difference between topsoil, mulch & potting mix
FAQ
Can I add soil over mulch?
You are going to need to add at least 8″ of soil to be able to plant annuals or herbs above the mulch layer. And anything bigger will be planted beneath the mulch layer into the existing soil just because of the depth of containers. Root rot may start from the mulch layer spreading outwards.
Should I remove mulch before adding soil?
It’s not necessary to remove the old mulch from your landscape beds because it’s made up of organic material, and it will decompose over time.Dec 14, 2023
Can you plant on top of mulch?
Yes, you can plant wildflowers on top of mulch, but there are some important considerations to ensure successful growth: Type of Mulch: Make sure the mulch is not too thick. A layer of 2-3 inches is generally suitable. If it’s too thick, it can inhibit seed germination.
Should mulch be on top of soil or under?
The layer of mulch on top is meant primarily to do two things; it should be applied when the soil beneath is already moist, when it will help to stop the soil …Jun 17, 2020