Every plant can develop a pest issue, and tomatoes are no exception. If youre having trouble identifying a specific pest or the damage it has made, this list of 12 common pests is here to help: It includes a description of the insect, signs of it attacking the plant, the time when this typically occurs, as well as the best pest control options.
Read on to learn more about tomato pests and how to prevent pests from ruining your tomato harvest.
As a tomato gardener, few things are more frustrating than walking out to your lush plants and spotting strange orange bugs clustered on the leaves. These unwelcome guests are likely leaf footed bug nymphs, emerging pests that can swiftly damage your tomato crop.
In this comprehensive guide we’ll cover everything you need to know about identifying orange leaf footed bugs the harm they cause, and effective organic methods to get rid of them without toxic chemicals. Read on to learn how to protect your tomatoes from these sneaky summer invaders!
What Are Leaf Footed Bugs?
Leaf footed bugs belong to the family Coreidae, which includes squash bugs and many other sap-sucking insects. There are over 100 species of leaf footed bugs in North America. The most common garden pest species is the western tarnished plant bug (Lygus hesperus).
These bugs get their name from the flattened, leaf-like expansions on their hind legs Adults have long antennae and measure 0.3-0.6 inches in length Their coloration provides good camouflage mottled brown, gray and black on the wings with an orange-brown body.
Leaf footed bugs feed using needle-like mouthparts to pierce plant tissues and suck out juices Both adults and nymphs cause damage through feeding
What Do Leaf Footed Bug Nymphs Look Like?
The young nymphs of leaf footed bugs go through five growth stages, each time shedding their exoskeleton to become larger. Just-hatched nymphs are tiny black insects. After a few days, they molt into the orange phase often seen colonizing tomato plants.
These orange leaf footed bug nymphs have oval-shaped bodies with black legs and antennae. Two distinctive black stripes run down their abdomen. They are around 0.12-0.2 inches long.
Within a few weeks, the nymphs will molt again, becoming greenish-brown. In their final phase before adulthood, look for the developing ‘leaf feet’ on the hind legs.
Why Are Leaf Footed Bugs Attracted to Tomato Plants?
Leaf footed bugs are generalist feeders that attack a wide variety of garden vegetables, fruits, ornamentals and weeds. Tomatoes are among their favorite targets.
These pests are drawn to lush, healthy tomato foliage and fruit. Leaf footed bugs often build up on weeds or uncropped areas and then migrate over to gardens once tomato plants start setting fruit.
The bugs seem especially fond of staking or caging tomatoes, as the confinement provides them easy access. But leaf footed bugs will also readily feed on sprawling tomatoes.
Their peak activity is during hot, dry weather in mid to late summer Be extra vigilant inspecting for leaf footed bugs from July through September.
How Do Leaf Footed Bugs Damage Tomatoes?
Both adult and juvenile leaf footed bugs use needle-like mouthparts to stab into tomatoes, extracting nutrients and moisture. This ruptures plant cells and creates areas for decay organisms to invade. Their feeding causes several types of direct injury:
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Sucks sap: Removing sap interferes with the plant’s circulatory system, impairing growth, fruit production and overall vigor.
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Injects toxins: As they feed, leaf footed bugs introduce toxic salivary secretions that cause extra tissue damage.
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Scars fruit: Feeding punctures on tomatoes create pale spots or dimples. These often become entry points for fungi and bacteria.
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Transmits diseases: Leaf footed bugs spread serious tomato diseases like curly top virus through their saliva as they feed.
A heavy infestation can quickly defoliate tomato plants. But just a few leaf footed bugs are capable of disfiguring fruit and stunting plants. Thorough inspection and immediate treatment is key.
How to Get Rid of Leaf Footed Bugs Organically
Catching orange leaf footed bugs early before they multiply gives you the best chance of protecting your tomato crop. Here are effective organic control methods:
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Hand removal – Check under leaves thoroughly for both nymphs and adults. These bugs often congregate along stems and on the undersides of foliage. Pick off any bugs you find and drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them.
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Insecticidal soap – Spray tomato plants with a direct-contact organic insecticidal soap. Coat the undersides of leaves thoroughly. Repeat applications every 5-7 days as needed to control hatching nymphs.
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Natural pyrethrin insecticide – Products based on pyrethrin extracted from chrysanthemums provide quick knockdown of leaf footed bugs. Direct spray to cover leaves, stems and developing fruits. Reapply every few days while bugs are active.
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Beneficial insects – Release or lure predaceous insects like assassin bugs, minute pirate bugs, and parasitic wasps that feed on leaf footed bugs. Plant nectar-rich flowers to draw these beneficials.
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Remove weeds/debris – Keep the garden free of weeds like ground cherry and lambsquarters that can harbor leaf footed bugs. Also eliminate nearby waste piles, tall grass and any other places the bugs may hide and breed when not in your tomato patch.
How to Prevent Leaf Footed Bug Damage
Along with control methods, certain prevention strategies can help deter leaf footed bugs:
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Use reflective mulches like aluminum foil or mylar to confuse pests and make plants less apparent.
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Cover tomato cages or supports with fine netting or row cover early in the season to exclude bugs.
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Practice crop rotation to avoid following tomatoes, eggplant or peppers with more solanaceous crops.
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Plant tomatoes as far as possible from weedy borders or last year’s tomato patch.
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Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which makes plants more succulent and appealing to leaf footed bugs.
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Monitor for eggs on the undersides of leaves weekly and crush any you find before they can hatch into plant-damaging nymphs.
What’s the Outlook After Leaf Footed Bug Damage?
The key is to catch infestations early before large numbers of leaf footed bugs become established. Tomatoes can recover well from light feeding damage. But if bugs are left uncontrolled, they can seriously undermine your tomato harvest.
While it’s frustrating to spot those orange pests on your plants, don’t despair. Take prompt action using the organic methods outlined above to curb leaf footed bugs. Pay close attention while tomatoes are ripening to keep your crop protected. With quick response, you can still gather a bountiful tomato harvest despite this occasional garden pest.
Most Common Tomato Pests
- 01 of 12
Cutworms
Black cutworm larva (Agrotis ipsilon) MEDITERRANEAN / Getty s Cutworms are the caterpillars of various moth species, and two in particular attack tomato plants: the variegated and black cutworms.
- Signs of Damage: Cutworms got their name from their feeding method: they cut down young plants and eat their leaves. They only feed in the evening and at night—during the day, they hide in plant debris or the soil.
- Control: In most cases, damage occurs on seedlings. If adult cutworms continue to be a problem in the summer, put up pheromone traps. Prevention consists of good weed control to deprive the caterpillars of their daytime hideouts.
- 02 of 12
Hornworms
DPFishCo / Getty s Probably the most well-known tomato pest, hornworms are 3 to 4 inches long. They are blue-green with a characteristic horn on their second to last body segment and 7 to 8 diagonal white stripes along the sides of their bodies.
- Signs of Damage: The caterpillars are voracious eaters, consuming a large amount of tomato leaves in a short time. They sometimes also eat green tomatoes. While the caterpillars are often difficult to spot as they blend in with the leaves, their dark green or black droppings (frass) are a telltale sign of their presence.
- Control: They rarely appear in large numbers, which makes hand-picking a feasible option. Start checking your plants for the caterpillars, their feeding damage, and frass, and remove them while still small. Braconid wasps are beneficial insects that parasitize and kill hornworms.
- 03 of 12
Aphids
Liz W Grogan / Getty s These soft-bodied, light- to dark-green insects are only about the size of a pinhead. Because they are so small, hide on the underside of leaves, and reproduce rapidly, they often turn into infestation before they are noticed. They can be present on tomato plants during the entire growing season.
- Signs of Damage: Aphids suck sap from leaves, which weakens the plant, and they produce the typical “honeydew,” a sticky liquid on which black fungus grows.
- Control: Check the underside of leaves aphids and attract their natural enemies such as lacewings, ladybugs, and hoverflies to your garden. Insecticides should be the last resort as they indiscriminately kill also beneficial insects.
- 04 of 12
Spider Mites
jess311 / Getty s Individual two-spotted spider mites are too small to detect with the naked eye. In hot, dry weather, their life cycle is as short as five to seven days and you’ll only notice that you have a problem when there is an infestation.
- Signs of Damage: Spider mites suck the juices out of the cell walls of tomato leaves. This appears as a yellow discoloration or a mottled appearance as if the leaves had been blasted with sand. The leaves turn a bronze color, then brown.
- Control: Check the underside of the tomato leaves, especially in hot, dry weather. A strong blast of water, including under the leaves, usually washes them off. To prevent spider mites, remove spider mite weed hosts such as chickweed from the area around your garden.
Continue to 5 of 12 below
- 05 of 12
Tomato Fruit Worms
Anas Yousaf / Getty s The tomato fruit worm, also known as the corn earworm, is the caterpillar of a yellowish-brown moth. The caterpillars are mostly light green with tan, brown, or maroon splotches on their bodies. The female moths lay their eggs on tomato plants.
- Signs of Damage: After the eggs hatch, the caterpillars feed mostly on the green tomatoes and only rarely on red tomatoes or leaves. They bore holes into the fruit, leaving behind frass that contaminates the tomatoes.
- Control: Tomato fruit worm moths prefer to lay their eggs on corn so it’s a good idea to plant corn nearby as a trap plant. To get rid of the larvae, use Bacillus thuringiensis.
- 06 of 12
Flea Beetles
amriphoto / Getty s Adult flea beetles are very small, so you might not notice their large back legs—but the way they jump when disturbed gives them away. They overwinter in leaf litter and wooded areas and resurface in the spring.
- Signs of Damage: Flea beetles feed on the leaves and stems of tomatoes, leaving irregularly shaped holes. Severe flea beetle damage results in wilted or stunted plants.
- Control: Planting tomatoes as late as possible helps to avoid the most severe onslaught of flea beetles. Trap crops such as radishes are another way to divert flea beetles to other plants. Once tomato plants have grown into strong, tall plants, they usually withstand flea beetles, whose numbers diminish in the summer.
- 07 of 12
Thrips
Tospovirus in tomato, transmitted by thrips burapa / Getty s Western flower thrips are tiny, 1 mm long insects with a narrow body shape. The females are larger than the males and yellow to dark brown whereas the males are pale yellow with a narrower abdomen.
- Signs of Damage: With their piercing-sucking mouthparts, Western flower thrips cause white scarring on tomato leaves, distorted growth, and sunken tissue on the underside of leaves. You might also notice small black spots, the frass from the feeding. Thrips also transmit the tomato spotted wilt virus to the plants, which is just as damaging as the feeding itself.
- Control: Thrips are difficult to control with insecticides because they often feed deep in the flowers and buds where chemicals don’t reach them. If using pesticides, use a product with Spinosad as an active ingredient. To prevent infestations, keep the areas around tomato plants weeded, as thrips reproduce on weeds.
- 08 of 12
Leafminers
sebasb95 / Getty s Leafminer adults are small, black-and-yellow flies that appear mostly on tomatoes in late summer. In warm weather, their life cycle takes only two weeks and there are seven to ten generations per year.
- Signs of Damage: The insects tunnel through the tomato leaf, leaving behind a serpentine-shaped track of dead white tissue. They also lay their eggs in leaves and leaf surfaces. Damaged leaves drop prematurely and the plant might lose all its leaves if the infestation is severe.
- Control: Not spraying broad-spectrum insecticides is the best you can do to control leafminers, as their natural enemies, such as parasitic wasps, feed on the larvae, When purchasing tomato plants, inspect them for leafminer damage. Infested plants should be destroyed.
Continue to 9 of 12 below
- 09 of 12
Colorado Potato Beetles
vovashevchuk / Getty s Although potatoes are their favorite food, Colorado potato beetles feed on any members of the nightshade family, including tomatoes. The larvae have orange-pink bodies with black heads and two rows of black spots along the sides of their bodies.
- Signs of Damage: Both adults and larvae feed on tomato leaves, often defoliating the plant. In addition to signs of chewing, also look for dark frass on the foliage.
- Control: Monitor the plants early, as seedlings are especially vulnerable, Small numbers can be hand-picked, and remove any egg masses. Treat serious infestations with an insecticide that contains Spinosad as an active ingredient.
- 10 of 12
Stink Bugs
ibunt / Getty s Also dreaded indoor pests, stink bugs are easily identified by the inverted triangle on the back of their shield-shaped body. The ½- to 2/3-inch bugs are brown or green in color. They overwinter as adults on the ground under leaves, plant debris, and weed patches and reemerge in the spring,
- Signs of Damage: Feeding damage appears as whitish areas with fuzzy borders. On ripe tomatoes, it looks like needle piercings or tiny dimples. The feeding also leads to hard, whitish, callous tissue beneath the skin.
- Control: If stink bug infestations are common in your area, start checking tomatoes when they are about 1 inch in diameter, and handpick the bugs. To prevent them, practice thorough weed control to eliminate their overwintering locations. Because stink bugs move fast, spraying insecticides is not an efficient management method.
- 11 of 12
Whiteflies
Silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia tabaci) Tomasz Klejdysz / Getty s The silverleaf whitefly is a 1/8-inch insect with a yellowish body. It does not survive freezing temperatures but overwinters in greenhouses and is often introduced to home gardens through transplants that were grown in warmer regions.
- Signs of Damage: This pest only feeds on tomato fruit and injects a toxin into the fruit that causes irregular ripening. You might only notice the damage—green or yellow unripe longitudinal patterns that reach deep into the fruit—until the tomatoes look ripe on the outside and you cut them open.
- Control: The preferred dwelling place of the insect where it also lays its eggs is the underside of the leaves. Wash the undersides of the leaves with a strong spray of the hose gets rid of both. Attracting natural enemies such as lacewings or parasitic wasps is another method of effective control.
- 12 of 12
Armyworms
John Brandauer / Flickr / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED The caterpillars of the yellow-striped armyworm are pale gray to black with a yellow or cream-colored strip along the length of the body. The caterpillars overwinter in warm climates and move north in the summer.
- Signs of Damage: The small larvae feed on tomato leaves for a short time and then attack the tomatoes. They puncture 1/8- to ¼-wide holes over the entire fruit and fruit cluster. It only takes one or two larvae to damage two to three tomato clusters.
- Control: Start checking the leaves in June to detect and treat the caterpillars while they are still small and before they start eating the tomatoes. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis on plants where you spot the larvae.
FAQ
- What is the most prominent pest for tomato plants? Tomatoes are prone to a few common pests, including aphids, cutworms, hornworms, and tomato fruit worms. Some will be more prevalent than others depending on the other plants in your garden and your local climate.
- What is the best pest control for tomato plants? Common insecticides like bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, and esfenvalerate are effective for deterring common tomato plant pests like stink bugs, aphids, and hornworms.
- How can you stop bugs from eating your tomatoes? To keep pests from eating your tomatoes, spray down the plant regularly, apply insecticide, and brush away any visible pests into a bowl of soapy water.
The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our
Pests vs. Beneficial Insects
Not all insects on your plants are tomato pests. Beneficial insects such as predatory wasps, ladybugs, and lacewings are your allies when it comes to tomato pest control—they feed on the bad guys.
Before you proceed with pest control treatments, ensure what youre controlling is indeed a tomato pest. Pest control measures also depend on population numbers and the scope of the damage.
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Bug Control : How to Get Rid of Little Bugs That Are on the Leaves of My Tomato Plants
FAQ
How to get rid of orange bugs on tomato plants?
- Spraying them multiple times a week with a blast of water from the hose to displace and discourage them.
- Spraying with insecticidal soap.
- Alternately spraying with pyrethrin and spinosad at 14 day intervals as needed.
What are the tiny orange bugs on my plants?
Discover the tiny little orange bug known as thrips. Learn about these unique insects and their impact on plants. Click for insights!See more videos about Tiny Orange Bugs, Tiny Orange Bugs on Bricl, Tiny Orange Bug That Bites, Poor Little Bug, Little Bugs Turn into Big Bug, Tiny Little Clear Bugs.
How do you get rid of orange bugs?
Bronze orange bugs and spined citrus bug
At this time they’re vulnerable to horticultural oils like PestOil and Eco Oil, which can smother and kill them. In early spring, treat with Yates Nature’s Way Citrus & Ornamental Spray. During late spring and summer, destroy adult bugs.
How to get rid of hornworms on tomato plants?
To kill tomato worms naturally, mix some liquid dish soap and water in a spray bottle, spray it on the tomato plant, and then shake some Cayenne pepper onto the plant and on the tomatoes. The soap kills the worms, and the cayenne pepper will keep them away if the soap washes off of the plant and they try to come back.