How to Store Iris Rhizomes: A Complete Guide to Keeping Your Beauties Safe for Next Season

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Robby

Showy irises are easy-to-grow, tall perennial flowers that are typically pretty hardy. That means you don’t often have to dig up and store the bulbs or rhizomes over winter. However, there are times when conserving them can be beneficial.

Read on to learn when and how to store iris bulbs and rhizomes to increase the chances of successful replanting when the timing is right.

Hey there, fellow gardeners! I’ve been growing irises for years, and one question I get asked a lot is how to properly store those precious rhizomes. Whether you’ve got extras from dividing your iris bed or scored some late-season deals, knowing how to store these babies properly can make all the difference between healthy blooms and sad, mushy disappointments next spring.

What You’ll Need:

  • Cardboard box or container with air holes
  • Clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears
  • Garden fork
  • Newspaper
  • Powdered sulfur or fungicide
  • Soft-bristled brush
  • Peat moss (optional)
  • Gloves

Step-by-Step Guide to Storing Iris Rhizomes

1. Preparing Your Rhizomes

Before storage your rhizomes need some TLC

  • Trim the foliage to about 2-3 inches above the rhizome
  • Clean off excess soil (don’t wash with water!)
  • Inspect each rhizome and discard any that are:
    • Mushy
    • Dried out
    • Showing signs of rot
    • Feel soft instead of firm

2. Drying Process

This is super important y’all – proper drying prevents rot

  1. Place rhizomes in a sunny spot
  2. Let them dry for 1-2 days
  3. They should feel dry to the touch
  4. Use a soft brush to remove remaining dirt
  5. Allow additional curing in a warm (around 70°F), dark place for 1-2 weeks

3. Storage Container Prep

I’ve found that cardboard boxes work best but here’s what you need to do

  1. Choose a shallow box
  2. Make several holes on all sides for ventilation
  3. Optional: Add a thin layer of peat moss at the bottom
  4. Don’t use plastic containers – they trap moisture!

4. Packing the Rhizomes

Here’s my tried-and-true method:

  1. Dust rhizomes with sulfur powder or fungicide
  2. Wrap each rhizome individually in newspaper
  3. Place in box with space between each one
  4. Don’t stack more than 2-3 layers deep
  5. Keep the arrangement loose for air circulation

5. Finding the Perfect Storage Spot

Your storage location needs to be:

  • Cool (40-50°F is ideal)
  • Dry
  • Dark
  • Well-ventilated

Pro tip: A garage or basement often works great, but make sure it doesn’t freeze!

Maintenance During Storage

Don’t just store ’em and forget ’em! Here’s what you gotta do:

  • Check rhizomes monthly
  • Remove any that show signs of rot
  • Maintain air circulation
  • Keep storage area dry
  • Watch for pest problems

Common Storage Problems and Solutions

Problem Solution
Mold growth Improve ventilation, remove affected rhizomes
Shriveling Storage area too warm or dry
Rotting Remove affected pieces, increase air flow
Pest damage Apply appropriate organic pest control

When to Plant Stored Rhizomes

I usually plant my stored rhizomes in spring when:

  • Soil temperature reaches about 50°F
  • Danger of hard frost has passed
  • Ground is workable

Tips for Success

  1. Label your rhizomes before storage – trust me, you’ll forget which variety is which!
  2. Don’t store damaged or diseased rhizomes
  3. Keep different varieties separated
  4. Store only firm, healthy specimens
  5. Check regularly during storage period

Final Thoughts

Storing iris rhizomes ain’t rocket science, but it does need some attention to detail. I’ve had my share of storage fails over the years (like that time I forgot about a box in my humid basement – yikes!), but following these steps has given me consistent success.

Remember, properly stored rhizomes can last up to a year, but for best results, try to plant them in the next growing season. With proper care, these hardy plants will reward you with gorgeous blooms year after year.

Got questions about storing your iris rhizomes? Drop ’em in the comments below – I’d love to help out!

Happy Gardening!


Note: While these methods work great for most iris varieties, some specific types might need slight adjustments. When in doubt, check with your local extension office for region-specific advice.

how to store iris rhizomes

When to Store Iris Bulbs or Rhizomes

Iris bulb and rhizome storage timing and processes vary depending on the species. Whatever type of iris bulb or rhizome you have, don’t store it for more than one year. These nutrient-filled structures are unlikely to survive longer than this out of the ground.

Typically, you’ll want to lift iris bulbs or rhizomes out of the ground when they are finished flowering and the leaves are dying back. You can then transplant most irises back into the ground in the fall. Don’t leave transplanting the bulbs or rhizomes too late. You want them to start establishing before hard winter weather. That means at least six weeks before the first expected first date. Below is some general guidance for some common iris types:

  • Reticulata irises: They bloom in early spring and grow from bulbs. You can store them through the summer and replant them between September and mid-November.
  • Dutch irises: They bloom in midsummer and grow from bulbs. These can also be replanted in the fall.
  • Bearded irises: Bloom in summer and grow from rhizomes. These can be replanted in the fall or early spring after the danger of frost has passed.

Do I Need to Store Iris Bulbs or Rhizomes?

There are over 200 iris species and thousands of iris cultivars. Most irises are rhizomatous plants, meaning they grow from underground modified plant stems. Some iris species grow from bulbs, another form of underground nutrient storage structures.

Irises tend to be pretty hardy, and bulbs and rhizomes don’t usually need to be removed from the ground to store overwinter in the way that some more tender species (such as canna bulbs) might.

However, you might want to store perennial iris bulbs or rhizomes to keep them for transplanting to a new yard after a house move, to pass on to friends or family after dividing overcrowded plants, or to overwinter unusually tender species when you have harsh winters.

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